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What fuel was this on? now I want to max out an F135 with this and the single barrel Autolite Sniper on ethanol
FiTech/Sniper Distributor ??? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Downey
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What fuel was this on? now I want to max out an F135 with this and the single barrel Autolite Sniper on ethanol
93What fuel was this on? now I want to max out an F135 with this and the single barrel Autolite Sniper on ethanol
My guess is that the Chevrolet unit is more or less a drop in affair, with a possible gear change. Probably not millions of dollars to be made selling them to cruiserheads. When I do the swap, I'll share the info, I don't really give a s*** about money. And I'll share base and modified timing maps for free, no purchase necessary. I care more about folks making memories with their rigs, as cheaply as they can.
Neither is drop in...both have minor dimensional issues around the shaft location/size. Definitely minor to address, but neither will just plop in.
I had a long email thread via someone who contacted me via my YT - they tried the Chevy flavor and found it more work than the simple mods required for the Jeep variant.
I've shared those mods here as well in various threads, not much to it given how simple the non mech' dizzys are...no springs and bellows.
Did you install the hyperspark ignition and coil also? Which model. When I did my Camaro it was easy to install sniper, distributor, ignition and coil. Everything you need is spec’s out and available. I used Chris at EFI.
I did the full system - it's all definitely plug and play and works great (especially the fine idle control via timing, not just IAC).
If you have something common, it's all available as well...but specifically they do not currently make a distributor to fit the 2F block. They have one for a Jeep I6 (P/N 565-307) and a Chevy I6 (565-316) that are both close enough to modify, but don't fit the 2F out of the box.
Also realized I'd already edited and published the mod work.
If you have something common, it's all available as well...but specifically they do not currently make a distributor to fit the 2F block. They have one for a Jeep I6 (P/N 565-307) and a Chevy I6 (565-316) that are both close enough to modify, but don't fit the 2F out of the box.
Also realized I'd already edited and published the mod work.
Kudos to Cameron and the team. I ordered the Sniper and the Hyperspark from them. Easy install, ran right out of the box on the first try! I'll post some details and photos in a seperate thread one of these days. Most of the work on the install was fabricating a bracket for the throttle linkage, a bracket for the coil, and mounts for the CDI box. The remainder of the odds and ends were included in the kit. I did opt for the MSD spark plug wires, just more expedient than building my own.
zerotreedelta,
Thanks for your work on this and this thread actually gave me the confidence to go ahead with the Hyperspark. (Also credit to Mosely, I bought their kit instead of sourcing the distributor gear and doing the machining myself.)
This table is really useful. I want to be respectful of Mosley's desire not to share the programming that came with their kit, but it was too aggressive on timing advance for my motor so your info above is helpful as I dial that tuning back. (Mosley has great products, my motor is just likely rebuilt differently than the motor they did the tune on or I'm lower in altitude or my local gas is bad or whatever - its just different.)
The full Holley setup is indeed nice - it's very plug and play, and most of the work is in the bracketry like you mention (and the tuning, but I started from scratch).
I may still try to hit a local dyno this summer, but I did generally follow factory limits on my timing map to start. Over time, I did bump it a bit during cruise to eke out an MPG or so. That is a nice thing on the hyperspark - you can tune very specific areas in isolation.
I may still try to hit a local dyno this summer, but I did generally follow factory limits on my timing map to start. Over time, I did bump it a bit during cruise to eke out an MPG or so. That is a nice thing on the hyperspark - you can tune very specific areas in isolation.
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The passenger fender under the blower is where we chose to mount them on Rotunda
I dunked my CDI in the glove box where the factory speaker cage was. Fit nicely, it's a bit stealthy, and the hole for the speaker gave plenty of airflow...no temp issues. Takes up the same room as well, so no real glove box space lost.
Another aside - the CDI seemed to give me a bit of alternator interference, so I ended up adding the Holley filter capacitor... I'll be curious if you find the same (it looks like you didn't have that filter cap, but it might be hiding)
What do you mean by alternator interference?
I'm using the original alternator and voltage regulator. Radio has not been re-installed yet (I'm looking for a heater fan switch...). So if you mean an alternator whine in the radio, I'm not at that stage yet.
Battery seems to charge ok.
I'm using the original alternator and voltage regulator. Radio has not been re-installed yet (I'm looking for a heater fan switch...). So if you mean an alternator whine in the radio, I'm not at that stage yet.
Battery seems to charge ok.
It's been a while, but I was getting an unstable charge and periodic voltage spikes (15+ volts). No change with a replacement regulator, and no change with a new alternator. I believe one voltage spike eventually killed my hall effect sensor.
I tried a solid state regulator, and it was better...but adding in the cap for the CDI/coil finally smoothed things out.
Not sure why, but I did find others with similar quirks - just on other vehicles other than FJ40s.
MSD 8830MSD MSD Noise Capacitor, 26 Kufd
If you experience radio noise after installing the MSD Ignition, you may need to install an MSD Noise Filter. Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI) is occasionally generated from the MSD power cables and can be easily eliminated by installing the Noise Filter on the heavy power supply wires coming...
www.holley.com
Hmm. Each of the power feeds goes directly to the battery terminals. In addition to the stock grounds, I added a few (shown in green) 10 gauge THHN ground wires to make sure I wasn't depending only on the 50 year old wiring harness. The original amp meter on the panel jumps around a bit but I think it always has. I would like to switch to a solid state voltage regulator. What one do you recommend?It's been a while, but I was getting an unstable charge and periodic voltage spikes (15+ volts). No change with a replacement regulator, and no change with a new alternator. I believe one voltage spike eventually killed my hall effect sensor.
I tried a solid state regulator, and it was better...but adding in the cap for the CDI/coil finally smoothed things out.
Not sure why, but I did find others with similar quirks - just on other vehicles other than FJ40s.
MSD 8830MSD MSD Noise Capacitor, 26 Kufd
If you experience radio noise after installing the MSD Ignition, you may need to install an MSD Noise Filter. Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI) is occasionally generated from the MSD power cables and can be easily eliminated by installing the Noise Filter on the heavy power supply wires coming...
Sort of disappoints me that Holley didn't design the filtering into the CDI box itself and charges an extra $50 for it. Guess its a 25 year old design. If I were to design one today, I'd start with a DC to DC converter running at a few Mhz or so to drive the CDI circuit at a much higher base voltage. Much easier to filter that and the filter would easily fit in the CDI box itself. Today's GaN devices could make that CDI box much smaller (just like the newer laptop chargers). Oh well.
When I have a chance, I'll put a oscilloscope on the supply lines and post the results.
Anybody else seen this? Or a pointer to a different forum (doesn't have to be on an FJ)?
Similar here - the Hyperspark + Sniper was fully isolated from the factory harness other than tying in to one plug for "key on". I recall finding more information when looking for generic "MSD CDI" vs Hyperspark. From what I know, it's basically the same guts, just different packaging and harnesses.
It may have just been something odd with my setup...if your volts seem ok, you might be fine. It was pretty easy to add in a cap, though (and it really could just be a generic cap, vs the MSD one). It does provide some safety to the components as well (it works in both directions - less noise to the factory harness, and smoother power to the more sensitive Holley bits).
In retrospect, a self-regulated alternator (FJ60?) was probably the better swap, but I'd already tidied up my factory external regulated harness. I ended up using a spare aircraft regulator that I had on hand, so it was a bit of overkill...but it did give me overvolt protection as well as an adjustable voltage control.
EDIT: found my old thread on the regulators, FWIW:
forum.ih8mud.com
It may have just been something odd with my setup...if your volts seem ok, you might be fine. It was pretty easy to add in a cap, though (and it really could just be a generic cap, vs the MSD one). It does provide some safety to the components as well (it works in both directions - less noise to the factory harness, and smoother power to the more sensitive Holley bits).
In retrospect, a self-regulated alternator (FJ60?) was probably the better swap, but I'd already tidied up my factory external regulated harness. I ended up using a spare aircraft regulator that I had on hand, so it was a bit of overkill...but it did give me overvolt protection as well as an adjustable voltage control.
EDIT: found my old thread on the regulators, FWIW:
2021 Update on Solid State Regulators?
Searched a bit, but most threads are of a 2018 or older vintage...and it doesn't look like Wagner does the regulators for the '76 variety anymore either. Any other good candidates for a solid state regulator? I don't mind pigtail work, I've got a spare that I can use there... EDIT - cheap...
forum.ih8mud.com
I love how it fits under the hood, but tell us how it runs! Do you miss the Aisin carb yet?
Starts and runs better than any carb I've had on an FJ40. Started immediately after installation but requires some simple adjustment like IAC valve screw before driving. (If not already set correctly, setting baseline ignition to the 7 degree BB is also helpful.) Initial learn cycle required (maybe 5 mile of driving) until hesitations disappear. Still working on optimizing. Biggest issue so far is that learn mode doesn't start until 160 F coolant temp. I can only get that with a piece of cardboard over the radiator so I have a weak thermostat or a bad CTS. Working on those before I spend much more time on the air fuel map and timing advance.
Put an oscilloscope on the fusebox near the driver's left leg. Not much in terms of voltage spikes. At idle, I'm seeing a ~90 Hz, 4V spike that only lasts 50 to 100 ns. Not much energy in that. Too high in frequency to be the spark (650 RPM idle x (minute/60s) x (3 pulse/rev) but I'm unsure of how many pulses that CDI box puts out. More likely alternator brushes. In any case a 50 ns pulse at 90 Hz is only 4500 ns out of every second or 4.5 ppm so not much energy in that. (used a 10x probe if you are doing the math yourself)
