Have a great trip. I went SF Bay Area to Boston and back in mine with no problems. Longest day was 950 miles with no problem. Do oil change, brake check, fluids and go. Post up tripmm
First Cross Country Trip: South Carolina to California. What can I expect/tips for the drive in my '95. (1 Viewer)
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I PCS'd from CT to WA a few years ago and towed a fully loaded 5x8 cargo trailer mostly along the I-90 route. It was all fine until I hit the mountains and the 20+ year old heater hoses started causing problems. The skinny, head to block hose that runs vertically through the intake was the main culprit and one that rarely gets talked about here. Taking a more southern route should help though if you don't have time to go through these tricky heater hoses.
Also, the stock radiator is a really well built unit, but it is not efficient enough to keep the engine cool when hauling 5000 lbs at US freeway speeds. If you are on the original radiator, I would replace it with a far inferior quality, but immensely more efficient unit if you have the time (TYC).
If you don't have time to go through all of this, I'd be looking for the most flat route possible and taking it slow. Also, try to find out what the empty weight of that Uhaul is, they tend be a but heavy.
Also, the stock radiator is a really well built unit, but it is not efficient enough to keep the engine cool when hauling 5000 lbs at US freeway speeds. If you are on the original radiator, I would replace it with a far inferior quality, but immensely more efficient unit if you have the time (TYC).
If you don't have time to go through all of this, I'd be looking for the most flat route possible and taking it slow. Also, try to find out what the empty weight of that Uhaul is, they tend be a but heavy.
- Thread starter
- #43
Unfortunately I will not have time to replace the radiator. I had planned on taking the I-40 route, stopping in Memphis, TN, and Amarillo, TX. The other option is I-40 and I-20, as this goes through the lower southern states like Mississippi and Louisiana ( I would stop in Jackson instead of Memphis). What do you recommend, they both are approximately 33 hours. The second option is 30 miles longer.
I-40 is a nice route @Jhnpv . It has plenty of motel and fuel options through just about every stretch (don't push the fuel stops as you go further west). It's not super exciting, but you do get the geographic scenery change experience along the way. Jim Neely's Interstate BBQ is worth the stop in Memphis, if you enjoy BBQ. As mentioned above, TX, OK have great beef, worth a stop for a steak or brisket BBQ.
Follow your instincts when it comes to the vehichle and making overnight stops. If something sounds unusual, or is out of the regular operating range on the gauges, safely pull over and look into it. Make sure your spare is in good shape and is aired up too. If an area looks and feels sketchy, don't get a room there. Just fuel up and move another 50 miles west.
Good luck, safe travels, and most importantly...enjoy the experience.
And thank you for your service to our country!!!!
Follow your instincts when it comes to the vehichle and making overnight stops. If something sounds unusual, or is out of the regular operating range on the gauges, safely pull over and look into it. Make sure your spare is in good shape and is aired up too. If an area looks and feels sketchy, don't get a room there. Just fuel up and move another 50 miles west.
Good luck, safe travels, and most importantly...enjoy the experience.
And thank you for your service to our country!!!!
U-Haul trailers are heavy, you also mention possible transmission slipping. If you are on any kind of grade your transmission will likely start shifting in and out of overdrive. I would turn the overdrive off when this occurs. Then back on when the road flattens out again.
Sounds like a fun trip! I've driven across country to San Diego several times. I'm currently at our place outside of Albuquerque. If you need any help near here just give me a message. Lots of knowledgeable 80 series owners here. We'll also be heading to Las Vegas in a couple of weeks. I'll be driving my 80 there to keep at our place in Boulder City. If you are around at that time we could caravan from Albuquerque!
Also. Since you'll be coming across 40, prepare for some crazy winds west of OKC all the way to Kingman Az. I also probably wouldn't try to tow in overdrive once you get to Amarillo. Heading west from there is a slow climb and usually very windy.
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- #48
Morning everyone,
Currently replacing the front brakes on the cruiser. Encountered a road block, if you would call it that.
My buddy and I don't know if we need to remove these bolts to actually remove the rotors. Essentially, we don't know where to go from here. He's more experienced with replacing brakes, and he just wants to make sure that removing these wont cause any sort of spring or something to fly out at him. Since we are on the topic, is there anything else we need to know before continuing with the brake job? Thanks everyone.
Currently replacing the front brakes on the cruiser. Encountered a road block, if you would call it that.
My buddy and I don't know if we need to remove these bolts to actually remove the rotors. Essentially, we don't know where to go from here. He's more experienced with replacing brakes, and he just wants to make sure that removing these wont cause any sort of spring or something to fly out at him. Since we are on the topic, is there anything else we need to know before continuing with the brake job? Thanks everyone.
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ChaseTruck
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I hope this works - front brake section of the factory service manual
If you need a factory service manual I can upload some pics. Doing the front rotors requires removing the hub assembly. It's a fairly involved procedure if you haven't ever done them on one of these trucks.
I just did that drive last June with my '96 LX450. Going from Jacksonville to Lake Tahoe via Houston, CO, Southern UT (Zion, Bryce) then across NV. I will leave the mechanical points to the pro's here, but I do agree with an earlier point that if you are concerned about something then get it fixed. I replaced most gaskets, brakes, hoses, etc. before the drive. It was an old car and the gaskets had mostly turned to hard packed dust. Brakes had 20% left but why not go with a new set (I see you are already changing them). My comments have to do with comfort. Buy one of the WeatherTech Cup Phone cell phone holders then put it in the slide out cup holder. Great place to put you phone with google maps. Buy one of those 3D printed cup holders on Etsy (80 Series Double Cup Holder | Etsy - https://www.etsy.com/listing/193139438/80-series-double-cup-holder?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=fj80&ref=sr_gallery-1-3&from_market_listing_grid_organic=1&frs=1&bes=1&col=1). You can never have enough cup holders and the LC essentially has none. Finally, think about an arm rest for the drive. I used my wife's yoga block or you can use a pillow. But you need something because your right arm will get sore. No need to carry gas but do fill-up at 1/3 tank as these cars really burn gas. Have a great time.
ChaseTruck
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I've driven between Louisiana to Arizona a few times. Ditto on filling up at 1/3 tank. I generally avoid eating a real meal during the day - I've realized it makes me tired. My subsistence during the day is a nutrition bar or two, and some gas station coffee. And it's only perception, but I feel I make better progress if I start early - a sunrise out west can be quite spectacular. Of course, late afternoon on e.g. I-10, it can feel like you drive right into the setting sun, perhaps time to take a break a bit earlier. When we drove the 80 to AZ, fuel mileage on I-10 dropped as the speed limit increased...
Back to the front brakes - the cone washers underneath the small nut you circled can be quite reluctant to come out. They often need percussive persuasion, but don't hit the stud, it'll deform. My solution is a 'special service tool' - a tall u-bolt nut (from a 1/2-ton Chevy...) that fits comfortable around the cone washer, and is taller than the stud (an old socket might do the trick as well); I hold that with pliers against the drive plate, hit it with a small sledge, and that usually dislodges the cone washer. Hope that helps.
Back to the front brakes - the cone washers underneath the small nut you circled can be quite reluctant to come out. They often need percussive persuasion, but don't hit the stud, it'll deform. My solution is a 'special service tool' - a tall u-bolt nut (from a 1/2-ton Chevy...) that fits comfortable around the cone washer, and is taller than the stud (an old socket might do the trick as well); I hold that with pliers against the drive plate, hit it with a small sledge, and that usually dislodges the cone washer. Hope that helps.
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- Thread starter
- #53
Do you mind shooting me some of those pics? I don't know if they are the same or different from @ChaseTruck .
- Thread starter
- #54
I appreciate the advice. Feeling a lot more confident as I replace things like the tires and brakes (although we are having a hell of a time replacing the front ones right now). I actually bought a DIN cupholder that folds in and out, and its comes with "free box". Pretty cheaply made and the holders themselves are really small, but it fits a redbull can perfectly, which is my poison of choice anyways.
Here ya go. This is out of a 95 manual
Getting the cones to pop out is sometimes challenging. I've always tapped the end of the stud with a drift and hammer. Just be careful not to slip and damage the stud.
^^^
Same.
I gently tap the stud ends with a BRASS hammer and have managed to get them to turn loose that way. Never damaged a stud (to date) doing it that way.
ppc
M Go Blue
Don't remove the nuts completely. That keeps the cone washers from shooting across the garage and getting lost. Once you get the first cone washer loose the rest are much easier to get loose.
You can download the FSM from the resources tab above.
When you torque the front wheel bearings, torque to 30 LB-FT. Do not follow the FSM on this part it's wrong.
This is well documented here.
Tachycardic
SILVER Star
I'm late to the party, but I have done the I-70 and I-40 corridors (I'm based at Nellis and have driven to NY and DC and back). I also had my brakes done before one of the trips and for some reason my front's locked up after driving about 20 miles. The simple road-side fix was to pull the ABS fuse, drive a bit, and then reinsert it. The brakes have been working perfectly since. Just some food for though if the same thing happens. I personally like the I-70 route because Colorado is so beautiful, but the climb up the Rockies will be a bit slow going. Sounds like you're doing the I-40 route and you can take a portion of old route 66 from Seligman to Kingman in AZ. Nice drives and you don't have to worry about gas. I mean bring a 5 gal jerry can if you want piece of mind, but I would definitely bring an extra fusible link. I think this long drive will help--the old gal may even drive better after your extended "Italian tune up"!
Also, as others have said, take your time. There is no reason to travel greater than 65mph. You might be tempted to drive faster after watching those F250s whiz by at 80+mph towing an Airstream. Just don't.
Also, as others have said, take your time. There is no reason to travel greater than 65mph. You might be tempted to drive faster after watching those F250s whiz by at 80+mph towing an Airstream. Just don't.
