- Thread starter
- #641
Slowly tapping a razor blade all the way around the flange (snapped 4x during the process) then using an eyeglass screwdriver did the trick. Why there was FIPG on the flange, let alone on only one side, I'll never know.
First car, lx450!
- Thread starter tug123
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #642
Got both knuckles completely unassembled, axles/birfs separated, and everything mostly clean. Took far longer than I expected but I think tomorrow I'll be finished. Need to do a bit more thorough cleaning tomorrow then should be good to go. Only thing that I'll have to fight with is removing the rotor bolts since I don't have a vice.
DS was pretty soupy, but diff fluid is clean. PS was fairly okay, slighly soopy. Weird part was having lockers, since mine are stuck I couldn't lock beforehand so I just pulled them out. I imagine I'll just put them back in like normal but all of the warnings about lock the front axle before doing this make me a bit weary.
The splines on everything look solid to my untrained eye. How do I tell how much is "too much" for axle wear though and whether or not I need to push the axles in a bit further? Also, any good way to tell if the birfs are too worn? Going to swap them either way but nothing jumps out.
DS was pretty soupy, but diff fluid is clean. PS was fairly okay, slighly soopy. Weird part was having lockers, since mine are stuck I couldn't lock beforehand so I just pulled them out. I imagine I'll just put them back in like normal but all of the warnings about lock the front axle before doing this make me a bit weary.
The splines on everything look solid to my untrained eye. How do I tell how much is "too much" for axle wear though and whether or not I need to push the axles in a bit further? Also, any good way to tell if the birfs are too worn? Going to swap them either way but nothing jumps out.
Splines are showing wear, but not a problem.
If be more concerned about the seal groove on the one axle shaft. May need to adjust the depth of the seal when installing them.
Make sure to use a proper paper gasket on the drive flanges when going back together. No sealant on it.
- Thread starter
- #645
Ah the right side one, I see that now. What does that mean adjusting the depth of the seal?
When installing the axle seal, there is a stop that sets where it rides.
You don't install it quite as deep so the seal surface doesn't ride in the same groove on the shaft as before.
- Thread starter
- #647
Okay I think I understand, I think it will make more sense when I'm looking at it. I'll inspect the other grooves as well to make sure they aren't as large.
- Thread starter
- #648
Ah I finally understand this now. So the inner axle seal should be not completely pushed in, it should be sitting out a bit so that it doesn't sit on the same place it did last time, where there is now a groove. I get it.
AussieHJCruza
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If you can catch your fingernail in it, it's likely to be an issue. If you can't, run it.
From my experience, most full-time 80s have grooves both sides
From my experience, most full-time 80s have grooves both sides
- Thread starter
- #650
Was just about to assemble my axles to put them in, knuckle housing already back on, then I realized I'm fairly certain Toyota gave me everything but the axle snap rings. I'll go there tomorrow and hope that it's laying around somewhere, it's on the invoice but definitely wasn't stapled with the others. I leave town Saturday so if they don't have it looks like I'll have to finish this when I get back in two weeks.
- Thread starter
- #651
All done! Dug through the trash and found my old snap rings, were totally fine. Did new rotors and brake pads as well, after bedding them my brakes are far better. Steering wandering is basically gone (wheel bearings had lots of play), and the whining noise is basically gone after doing filinng down the old O2 sensor gasket. Should clean that up once more and put a fresh gasket on it.
I am noticing clicking on the DS now. I’m assuming that means not enough grease? I’m horrible at getting the right grease amounts, i did lile 1.5-1.75 tubes per side. Back side of knuckle housing is completely dry after driving for 10min on both sides.
I am noticing clicking on the DS now. I’m assuming that means not enough grease? I’m horrible at getting the right grease amounts, i did lile 1.5-1.75 tubes per side. Back side of knuckle housing is completely dry after driving for 10min on both sides.
I have read or been told that if you have clicking, you can try swapping axle sides. Something about the birfs wearing a groove and switching sides creates a new seat. And sometimes that can solve the clicking.
But you’re likely not super excited about tearing into those again right after you just buttoned them back up
. Anyway, I guess this is why RCV sells new sets. Hope this helpsHmm, I think I used just under 3 16oz tubs on both sides. I do recall it took more than 10 minutes of diving to see the grease film. I think you need to drive it further and check with a zip tie. Mine were on the high side of the range FWIW.
- Thread starter
- #654
I actually did swap them, so maybe I created clicking (had no clicking before doing the job) from doing that ha. My guess is it's something dumb that I did, I'm not particularly worried. And if I really had to open it up again, i'd be a lot more comfortable doing it haha.I have read or been told that if you have clicking, you can try swapping axle sides. Something about the birfs wearing a groove and switching sides creates a new seat. And sometimes that can solve the clicking.
But you’re likely not super excited about tearing into those again right after you just buttoned them back up
Oh wow so that totally could be it, that sounds like a lot. I've heard 1 tub per side/2 tubes per side, but maybe it really is just that. Anyways, this is a problem for when I get back in town, just glad it's on the ground now.
Isn’t there a seal driver (Joey at WitsssssEnd used to sell them) that seats the oil seal a bit deeper to avoid the wear area?
I think trail taylor may sell them now as well.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
You can also use a large socket as a driver gently tap the seal a little deeper.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
FWIW these splines look pretty good.
The one on the left, you can clearly see sharp machined edges on all the splines.
The one on the right, the shiny polished faces on splines is through wear. A new spline won't be shiny.
A badly worn spline will end up with rounded off edges
I've reused worse.
- Thread starter
- #660
Drove it around a bit, clicking is still there. It's strange since it sounds cyclical, with three sequential clicks, pause, three sequential clicks. Checked all of the nuts, grease is between 2/3 and 3/4 full. Wheel play is gone (used to have quite a bit) except for some mild rotational play, which doesn't seem like a problem. All things considered it's driving really well except for these clicks right after the knuckle job.
I am wondering if it's my DS tie rod end. I tried to get it off when doing the knuckles with jaw pullers, then gave up and stopped caring about it. I notice the PS that I didn't touch though are angled, whereas my DS looks pretty high. I never hit it back in with a mallet or anything, just torque the castle nut to 67ft/lbs and put the cotter pin. Does this tie rod end look okay?
I am wondering if it's my DS tie rod end. I tried to get it off when doing the knuckles with jaw pullers, then gave up and stopped caring about it. I notice the PS that I didn't touch though are angled, whereas my DS looks pretty high. I never hit it back in with a mallet or anything, just torque the castle nut to 67ft/lbs and put the cotter pin. Does this tie rod end look okay?
