First car, lx450!

[CharlieS]

Finally gonna do the knuckle rebuild tomorrow, got everything I need I think.

I have been fighting with my O2 sensors for awhile and think I came to the conclusion that rust on the front O2 sensor plate is the cause of me a) running rich and b) whirring noise from left side of car during acceleration. It's pretty clear that the little blob of rust isn't allowing the gasket to be flush, which I think is having air escape from it. Listening to it today it's very clear the noise is coming from there and it smells like exhaust fumes right by the front O2 sensor.

Any ideas for how to get it off? Have tried all the sanding and scraping I can, even took a scraper and hit it with a hammer, no luck.

View attachment 3893194

Remove the sensor, gasket, and studs. Resurface it flat. I would probably use a small die grinder with some roloc brown disks if it would fit in the area. My O2 sensors are relocated, and I don't remember how much clearance there is in the stock location.

 

[tug123]

Remove the sensor, gasket, and studs. Resurface it flat. I would probably use a small die grinder with some roloc brown disks if it would fit in the area. My O2 sensors are relocated, and I don't remember how much clearance there is in the stock location.

Here's a better picture, a lot more room with the wheel off. I really worry those studs won't come out since it took me about 2 weeks just to get one of the nuts off. This definitely needs to be smoothed off tho.

 

[tug123]

Got down to the cone washers on both sides and it seems like both my hammer and my brass drift (1/2") are too small. Letting em sit for as long as I can now in PB blaster and just going at it periodically, but I think I gotta find someone who has like a 1" drift. Went at it for a solid hour, not a single one moved.

Still nothing, probably gonna take a torch to one of em and see if the heat loosens it up.

 

[BILT4ME]

Still nothing, probably gonna take a torch to one of em and see if the heat loosens it up.

What you are seeing on the O2 sensor is the rusted remains of a previous gasket.

Use a small hammer and pound lightly on the face to break it loose. You can get more aggressive as you tap on it. Don't hit from the sides. On the face only until it starts to loosen up.

Use a small socket around the studs to protect them and to break up the rust around them. You pound on the back of the deep well socket to break it up.

Then use a small triangular or flat bastard file to smooth it out after the chunks are off.

 

[CharlieS]

What you are seeing on the O2 sensor is the rusted remains of a previous gasket.

Use a small hammer and pound lightly on the face to break it loose. You can get more aggressive as you tap on it. Don't hit from the sides. On the face only until it starts to loosen up.

Use a small socket around the studs to protect them and to break up the rust around them. You pound on the back of the deep well socket to break it up.

Then use a small triangular or flat bastard file to smooth it out after the chunks are off.

I agree, that is what it looks like to me as well.

 

[tug123]

Two things going on so admittedly a bit confusing. Definitely agree on the O2 sensor, after taking the wheel off I have plenty of room to chip/file it off. Soaking in some PB probably isnt a bad idea beforehand too.

O2 sensor I’ll deal with later though, doing the knuckle job right now and cone washers just won’t come off. Just bought an extremely overpriced 3lb brass hammer, hopefully that will solve it.

 

[BILT4ME]

Two things going on so admittedly a bit confusing. Definitely agree on the O2 sensor, after taking the wheel off I have plenty of room to chip/file it off. Soaking in some PB probably isnt a bad idea beforehand too.

O2 sensor I’ll deal with later though, doing the knuckle job right now and cone washers just won’t come off. Just bought an extremely overpriced 3lb brass hammer, hopefully that will solve it.

Hold the brass hammer on the end of the stud and hit that hammer with a 2 lb hammer. Wear safety glasses.

Scrape around the cones until you find the slit. You can use a tiny flat chisel to hook in that slit and tap in and or sideways to rotate the cone.then it will come out unless the PO got too much caulk in there and glued it in.

 

[tug123]

Hold the brass hammer on the end of the stud and hit that hammer with a 2 lb hammer. Wear safety glasses.

Scrape around the cones until you find the slit. You can use a tiny flat chisel to hook in that slit and tap in and or sideways to rotate the cone.then it will come out unless the PO got too much caulk in there and glued it in.

That technique did it! Way too many hours later and a $140 brass hammer later all cone washers are out, think I have just enough spares.

 

[BTLSHP]

That technique did it! Way too many hours later and a $140 brass hammer later all cone washers are out, think I have just enough spares.

It is kind of a frustrating way to start the project. Glad they came out

 

[tug123]

Well turns out my 54mm socket is too thick to fit. No idea why 6mo ago me didn't buy it from Cruiser Outfitters with the rest of it, but oh well. Looks like I'll have to wait till Wednesday (hopefully) for a proper one to arrive.

 

[duece71]

Got down to the cone washers on both sides and it seems like both my hammer and my brass drift (1/2") are too small. Letting em sit for as long as I can now in PB blaster and just going at it periodically, but I think I gotta find someone who has like a 1" drift. Went at it for a solid hour, not a single one moved.

I had to tap with a brass hammer around the edge of the flange and use a brass drift on the front to get them to pop loose.

 

[duece71]

Well turns out my 54mm socket is too thick to fit. No idea why 6mo ago me didn't buy it from Cruiser Outfitters with the rest of it, but oh well. Looks like I'll have to wait till Wednesday (hopefully) for a proper one to arrive.

I had the same issue with a 54 mm socket bought from auto zone. Beefy enough but nope, wouldn’t fit. The silver colored (aluminum?) fit just fine.

 

[tug123]

I had the same issue with a 54 mm socket bought from auto zone. Beefy enough but nope, wouldn’t fit. The silver colored (aluminum?) fit just fine.

Yeah it makes sense now why those aluminum ones are so thin. One of those tools you really just have to have, someone said that in this thread back in November too.

 

[BucketEighty]

Here's a better picture, a lot more room with the wheel off. I really worry those studs won't come out since it took me about 2 weeks just to get one of the nuts off. This definitely needs to be smoothed off tho.

View attachment 3893741

My O2 sensor surfaces looked like this too. I used a hand file to file off the rust and old gasket material. It was a pain in the butt, the file I used was one I broke in half so there was enough room to use it in the space. There might be a better way.

 

[tug123]

My O2 sensor surfaces looked like this too. I used a hand file to file off the rust and old gasket material. It was a pain in the butt, the file I used was one I broke in half so there was enough room to use it in the space. There might be a better way.

I honestly just spent half an hour with a hand file and it is far far better, only a minor gap. When I get new gaskets ill do it again and should be completely flush.

 

[tug123]

Got DS done, axle and birf separated, axle splines look very solid. Just moving on to PS but noticing the flange seems to have FIPG on it. Any suggestions for how to get this off? Prying is pretty hard, don't want to chip away at the metal, and all of my 2lb brass hammer/drift/hammer combos don't move it at all. DS did not have any FIPG. Heat maybe?

 

[BTLSHP]

Got DS done, axle and birf separated, axle splines look very solid. Just moving on to PS but noticing the flange seems to have FIPG on it. Any suggestions for how to get this off? Prying is pretty hard, don't want to chip away at the metal, and all of my 2lb brass hammer/drift/hammer combos don't move it at all. DS did not have any FIPG. Heat maybe?

View attachment 3896149

Can you wedge in the thin steel blade of a putty knife or painter’s tool? Start with a corner of the blade?

 

[tug123]

Can you wedge in the thin steel blade of a putty knife or painter’s tool? Start with a corner of the blade?

Been trying for a bit with the metal can tab thing on a tube of moly, even that is too thick. Don't have a razor blade laying around but I'll try to get one, think that should be a tad thinner/sturdier.

 

[tug123]

Immediately shears off the blade on the razor blade. Is there any known solvent to take away Toyota black FIPG?

 

[ZackR]

If you have a putty knife try that (much less brittle than a razor blade).

If not try tapping a flathead screwdriver in there.