First car, lx450!

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I do remember before I was gonna do this last time resealing the diff was a suggestion. My main concern there was it looked like I have to pull the whole front axle assembly which didn't sound fun, is there a simpler way to do it?
 
I cannot recall that conversation but is your diff making noise or leaking? or what is leaning toward needing to do a reseal.
It was this one, I think the general idea was just since it is a pain to do normally but during the knuckle job it's not that much more work to do. That being said the gasket actually looks kind of okay, no sign of leakage.
If it were me I'd focus on the knuckle service, resealing the front diff (a common leak point only accessible with the axles out) and I'd reuse the axles if they are still in good shape, which you will find out once they are out (mine were). As @ppc mentioned the gear oil in the front differential will take a few changes to get cleaned up and having a clear breather is key.
 
If it isn't leaking then I wouldn't touch it. Do what has to be done and enjoy the truck. After you drive it for a bit I am sure there will be things that have to be addressed and then the inevitable "things I think I need" that we all do. Someone just posted a thread about a pop up roof for an 80, wasn't even thinking about that until I saw the picture. :)
 
If it isn't leaking then I wouldn't touch it. Do what has to be done and enjoy the truck. After you drive it for a bit I am sure there will be things that have to be addressed and then the inevitable "things I think I need" that we all do. Someone just posted a thread about a pop up roof for an 80, wasn't even thinking about that until I saw the picture. :)
That's where I netted out last time, sounds like a plan. Then I can finally get onto the sleeping platform build, a year later ha.
 
On a separate note, I noticed before I even turned on the car when I got back that my PCV catch can was halfway full with something other than oil. Before I left in November, there was a few mm of oil in the catch can, then it sat in my garage for 5 months without running. I just emptied it and the PCV hose reeked of fuel, couldn't really catch a smell other than oil from the actual catch can, but my hands smelled like fuel afterwards. I got the catch can because the PCV hose was always oily, just assumed it was valve seals that I'll eventually replace.

For context, I got this rig with a stuck open injector that put tons of fuel in the oil, causing white smoke. Replaced the wiring harness, did an oil change, and the smoke disappeared along with the misfire. Maybe there's still some fuel in the oil, but off the dipstick the color is very clean with no smell of fuel at all.

I'll probably just do an oil change (1k miles since initial oil change) and send off to Blackstone anyways, but I'm confused how this would happen just sitting in the garage. Maybe this is some sort of condensation from the cold Wyoming winter?


catchcan.png
 
Tug,

I think you are on the right track. When I saw the picture, before reading your post, I thought about condensation from the varying temps throughout the Wyoming winter and that the truck has been in storage so no heat cycles. Additionally, if there was that much fuel in the catch can you would definitely be seeing it when checking the dipstick and/or during an oil change.

Don't jump to conclusions, the Blackstone will tell you a lot about your engine and not just this.
 
Tug,

I think you are on the right track. When I saw the picture, before reading your post, I thought about condensation from the varying temps throughout the Wyoming winter and that the truck has been in storage so no heat cycles. Additionally, if there was that much fuel in the catch can you would definitely be seeing it when checking the dipstick and/or during an oil change.

Don't jump to conclusions, the Blackstone will tell you a lot about your engine and not just this.
I think so too, there's just no way there's that much fuel in the oil. Was definitely a surprise though, it was a weird winter with some pretty drastic temperature changes so I think it makes sense.
 
I'd clean out the catch can and drive it. Be sure to let it fully warm up, short trips in cold weather don't allow for the condensation to fully evaporate and you can end up with that milky color.

If you smell any fuel in the oil or have any concerns about fuel in the oil then change it out for good measure.
 
Finally gonna do the knuckle rebuild tomorrow, got everything I need I think.

I have been fighting with my O2 sensors for awhile and think I came to the conclusion that rust on the front O2 sensor plate is the cause of me a) running rich and b) whirring noise from left side of car during acceleration. It's pretty clear that the little blob of rust isn't allowing the gasket to be flush, which I think is having air escape from it. Listening to it today it's very clear the noise is coming from there and it smells like exhaust fumes right by the front O2 sensor.

Any ideas for how to get it off? Have tried all the sanding and scraping I can, even took a scraper and hit it with a hammer, no luck.

o2.png
 
Finally gonna do the knuckle rebuild tomorrow, got everything I need I think.

I have been fighting with my O2 sensors for awhile and think I came to the conclusion that rust on the front O2 sensor plate is the cause of me a) running rich and b) whirring noise from left side of car during acceleration. It's pretty clear that the little blob of rust isn't allowing the gasket to be flush, which I think is having air escape from it. Listening to it today it's very clear the noise is coming from there and it smells like exhaust fumes right by the front O2 sensor.

Any ideas for how to get it off? Have tried all the sanding and scraping I can, even took a scraper and hit it with a hammer, no luck.

View attachment 3893194
Good luck with the knuckle! For mine, the tool of the day became a Dollar Store rubber spatula. I collected the debris in a rubber tote lined with a contractor bag. Then straight to the dump.

As for the O2 sensor, that can't be an airtight fit. I might try a more aggressive tool like a small cold chisel, gently. See if it fractures the rust off at the original surface level.
 
Good luck with the knuckle! For mine, the tool of the day became a Dollar Store rubber spatula. I collected the debris in a rubber tote lined with a contractor bag. Then straight to the dump.

As for the O2 sensor, that can't be an airtight fit. I might try a more aggressive tool like a small cold chisel, gently. See if it fractures the rust off at the original surface level.
Spatula is a solid idea! I'll just steal mine from the kitchen, but the housing is definitely caked in grease.

Agreed, my only concern is that it's gonna chip out some of the actual metal as well. Don't have much of a choice at this point though, I'll try the chisel route.
 
Spatula is a solid idea! I'll just steal mine from the kitchen, but the housing is definitely caked in grease.

Agreed, my only concern is that it's gonna chip out some of the actual metal as well. Don't have much of a choice at this point though, I'll try the chisel route.
I have one that is 1/2" wide and 4-5" long. I used it a couple of times once to split and turn off O2 sensor nuts. Just go easy, if it is going to yield it will not take much.

For the exterior, I used a plastic putty knife and an old kitty litter pan with a little over a gallon of mineral spirits. I hate to admit it, but to conserve spirits I used a funnel and coffee filters until the last wipe out which was brake cleaner & micro fibers.

Though it is only rattle can paint, I am glad I repainted the hubs and brake shields after taking them down to bare metal.
 
I have one that is 1/2" wide and 4-5" long. I used it a couple of times once to split and turn off O2 sensor nuts. Just go easy, if it is going to yield it will not take much.

For the exterior, I used a plastic putty knife and an old kitty litter pan with a little over a gallon of mineral spirits. I hate to admit it, but to conserve spirits I used a funnel and coffee filters until the last wipe out which was brake cleaner & micro fibers.

Though it is only rattle can paint, I am glad I repainted the hubs and brake shields after taking them down to bare metal.
Yep sounds like a solid plan, been trying with a scraper but it just doesn't have enough size.

I have way too many cans of brake cleaner, but had not heard about mineral spirits. I happen to have a case of Topo Chico's sitting in my garage for some unknown reason so that could work well. I spent hours (with the wheels still on) cleaning the housing by hand awhile back so hoping it's not too bad.
 
Yep sounds like a solid plan, been trying with a scraper but it just doesn't have enough size.

I have way too many cans of brake cleaner, but had not heard about mineral spirits. I happen to have a case of Topo Chico's sitting in my garage for some unknown reason so that could work well. I spent hours (with the wheels still on) cleaning the housing by hand awhile back so hoping it's not too bad.
Maybe you aren’t saying what I think you’re saying but just to be totally clear, Mineral Spirits is paint thinner, Topo Chicos are carbonated mineral water, don’t use Topo Chicos on your knuckle rebuild except to drink when you need a break.
 
Maybe you aren’t saying what I think you’re saying but just to be totally clear, Mineral Spirits is paint thinner, Topo Chicos are carbonated mineral water, don’t use Topo Chicos on your knuckle rebuild except to drink when you need a break.
I'm very glad you jumped in before i poured carbonated water all over my knuckles. I just assumed mineral spirits was a fancy way of saying carbonated water
 
Got down to the cone washers on both sides and it seems like both my hammer and my brass drift (1/2") are too small. Letting em sit for as long as I can now in PB blaster and just going at it periodically, but I think I gotta find someone who has like a 1" drift. Went at it for a solid hour, not a single one moved.
 

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