Hi, i thought i would share my knowledge about the conversion i just completed here in Brisbane, Australia.
I just finished putting a completely rebuilt 14bt into a 1979 BJ40 which has had a ute cab conversion + custom tray for comp use.
Engine Install:
Starting with the stock BJ mounts and h55f from a 1984 bj42 with the cast iron bell housing, i researched how i could fit the larger flywheel into my housing.
i came to the conclusion that it would be easier to machine the flywheel down to the same diameter as the earlier 3b 6 bolt flywheel.
While doing this i also noted that the flywheel is actually 6mm longer but is compensated by having a shallower crank.
Then i had the studs and bolt holes drilled and tapped into the new diameter flywheel so that the old style clutch would bolt right on to the new 8 bolt 14bt flywheel.
since the new flywheel was simular to the older style flywheel, it would fit into the cast housing without having to grind out the webbing in the housing.
I had to grab a sump pan from a 3bII as the 14bt sump had wings on it which would colide with the front tail shaft. i read somwhere here about this and it bolted right up and worked great!
The 14bt bolted right up to the h55f and existing engine mounts with next to no problems. ONLY thing i had to modify was the battery tray on the injector pump side as it only just rubbed on the vacume pump. once the tray was modified it sat there perfectly.
I spent a day at the local truck wrecker and took every pipe and accessory off 2 sized 14b truck motors. i cleaned up all the pipes and bits and pieces and got the best of each component and they bolted right up.
Radiator used was the standard 3b radiator which i had reconditioned not long ago. thermostat housing is from a 13bt so i could run two cooler hoses to the ct26 without tapping into the heater system. i also thought that the original 14bt thermostat housing was way too tall and completely ridiculous. i used the 13bt thermostat as i read somewhere that 14bt's run cooler than the smaller b engines. i dont know the exact temp but the needle sits in the same position as the 3b did and does not move. (just above cold or around the 10:30 - 11 o'clock position)
Unfortunately for me the preheater screen was the only thing i was missing from the engine so since time was a huge factor i had to use the whole intake setup from a 13bt which i saw at the wreckers a few days eariler. fortunately it bolted right up and looks great with new blue silicone hose. also the word turbo on the boost pipe actually faces you when you open the bonnet rather than the original 14bt black boost pipe.
I used a 13bt (12v) alternator that i got reconditioned and removed the vacume pump from the back of it so that i could use the pump that was already on the engine. now i have a splined shaft hanging out the back of the alternator which i may be able to use for something in the future.
Since the engine was previously from a truck it was 24volt but i was able to use the original 3b starter motor, but had to change the fuel solinoid in the injector pump as it was 24v. easily fixed by grabbing one out of a 3bII (12v) at the wreckers.
Powersteering lines hooked right up to my reciently finished 80 series powersteering conversion, very happy with as the original truck powersteering pressure line, it was long enough to go straight into the box.
I am about to get the engine dyno tuned with a boost tap put into the wastegate line and the injector tip holes made bigger?. The diesel mechanic swears he can get 150 - 160hp out of it at around 12-13psi boost which sounds mighty impressive.
Some intresting facts: @100km/h in 5th gear with 4:11 diffs the engine sits at the same rpm (around 2800) as the 3b did (obviously) but it much prefers 110km/h especially when running the 33" tyres. no idea why?
I drove 380km south from Brisbane to Maclean with a boat on the back and used 35 odd litres. You do the maths. The highway incorperated many hills and ranges to climb up and down and the 14bt went like it was made for this application.
I have noticed that running stock boost (7-8-9psi if im correct) it produces most of its power at 2500 - 3000 rpm unlike the 13bt which had power until around 3700.
But the 14bt has unbelieveable torque and even with the boat on the back i can cruise around town easily in 4th + 5th gears.
This conversion was definately very straight forward and easy to do. i noticed that 14bt's were not very common but its non turbo version 14b out of dyna trucks was extremely common and almost every part i interchanged was the same other than the turbo and injectors and everything thats associated with these components.
b, 2b, 3b, 4b, and all the jap versions, 13b and 13bt parts also fit and some were used where i needed them.
One question i wanted to ask was, if anyone knows how to stop the left hand side engine mount (injector pump side) ripping in half could you please share your knowledge. I forgot to mention above that i am using the stock engine mounts and i have found out the hard way that they cant handle the power and torque.
I am also looking to do some mods to the engine to gain small power and torque increases, so if anyone knows any cheap and easy secrets could you please share
. But my main priority is running a larger than stock exhaust and putting in my new air box which i grabbed off a 60 series cruiser with a 2h in it, in so that it can breathe freely on both ends. after that its a water to air intercooler to keep the egt down low and increase performance and that will just about do it for the engine side of things.
Overall the 14bt is a fantastic engine to convert into a 40 series and shouldnt be overlooked as it is extremely overbuilt.
I will post a few photos up once i get my camera back.
Cheers, James
I just finished putting a completely rebuilt 14bt into a 1979 BJ40 which has had a ute cab conversion + custom tray for comp use.
Engine Install:
Starting with the stock BJ mounts and h55f from a 1984 bj42 with the cast iron bell housing, i researched how i could fit the larger flywheel into my housing.
i came to the conclusion that it would be easier to machine the flywheel down to the same diameter as the earlier 3b 6 bolt flywheel.
While doing this i also noted that the flywheel is actually 6mm longer but is compensated by having a shallower crank.
Then i had the studs and bolt holes drilled and tapped into the new diameter flywheel so that the old style clutch would bolt right on to the new 8 bolt 14bt flywheel.
since the new flywheel was simular to the older style flywheel, it would fit into the cast housing without having to grind out the webbing in the housing.
I had to grab a sump pan from a 3bII as the 14bt sump had wings on it which would colide with the front tail shaft. i read somwhere here about this and it bolted right up and worked great!
The 14bt bolted right up to the h55f and existing engine mounts with next to no problems. ONLY thing i had to modify was the battery tray on the injector pump side as it only just rubbed on the vacume pump. once the tray was modified it sat there perfectly.
I spent a day at the local truck wrecker and took every pipe and accessory off 2 sized 14b truck motors. i cleaned up all the pipes and bits and pieces and got the best of each component and they bolted right up.
Radiator used was the standard 3b radiator which i had reconditioned not long ago. thermostat housing is from a 13bt so i could run two cooler hoses to the ct26 without tapping into the heater system. i also thought that the original 14bt thermostat housing was way too tall and completely ridiculous. i used the 13bt thermostat as i read somewhere that 14bt's run cooler than the smaller b engines. i dont know the exact temp but the needle sits in the same position as the 3b did and does not move. (just above cold or around the 10:30 - 11 o'clock position)
Unfortunately for me the preheater screen was the only thing i was missing from the engine so since time was a huge factor i had to use the whole intake setup from a 13bt which i saw at the wreckers a few days eariler. fortunately it bolted right up and looks great with new blue silicone hose. also the word turbo on the boost pipe actually faces you when you open the bonnet rather than the original 14bt black boost pipe.
I used a 13bt (12v) alternator that i got reconditioned and removed the vacume pump from the back of it so that i could use the pump that was already on the engine. now i have a splined shaft hanging out the back of the alternator which i may be able to use for something in the future.
Since the engine was previously from a truck it was 24volt but i was able to use the original 3b starter motor, but had to change the fuel solinoid in the injector pump as it was 24v. easily fixed by grabbing one out of a 3bII (12v) at the wreckers.
Powersteering lines hooked right up to my reciently finished 80 series powersteering conversion, very happy with as the original truck powersteering pressure line, it was long enough to go straight into the box.
I am about to get the engine dyno tuned with a boost tap put into the wastegate line and the injector tip holes made bigger?. The diesel mechanic swears he can get 150 - 160hp out of it at around 12-13psi boost which sounds mighty impressive.
Some intresting facts: @100km/h in 5th gear with 4:11 diffs the engine sits at the same rpm (around 2800) as the 3b did (obviously) but it much prefers 110km/h especially when running the 33" tyres. no idea why?
I drove 380km south from Brisbane to Maclean with a boat on the back and used 35 odd litres. You do the maths. The highway incorperated many hills and ranges to climb up and down and the 14bt went like it was made for this application.
I have noticed that running stock boost (7-8-9psi if im correct) it produces most of its power at 2500 - 3000 rpm unlike the 13bt which had power until around 3700.
But the 14bt has unbelieveable torque and even with the boat on the back i can cruise around town easily in 4th + 5th gears.
This conversion was definately very straight forward and easy to do. i noticed that 14bt's were not very common but its non turbo version 14b out of dyna trucks was extremely common and almost every part i interchanged was the same other than the turbo and injectors and everything thats associated with these components.
b, 2b, 3b, 4b, and all the jap versions, 13b and 13bt parts also fit and some were used where i needed them.
One question i wanted to ask was, if anyone knows how to stop the left hand side engine mount (injector pump side) ripping in half could you please share your knowledge. I forgot to mention above that i am using the stock engine mounts and i have found out the hard way that they cant handle the power and torque.
I am also looking to do some mods to the engine to gain small power and torque increases, so if anyone knows any cheap and easy secrets could you please share
. But my main priority is running a larger than stock exhaust and putting in my new air box which i grabbed off a 60 series cruiser with a 2h in it, in so that it can breathe freely on both ends. after that its a water to air intercooler to keep the egt down low and increase performance and that will just about do it for the engine side of things. Overall the 14bt is a fantastic engine to convert into a 40 series and shouldnt be overlooked as it is extremely overbuilt.
I will post a few photos up once i get my camera back.
Cheers, James
?
