Builds Finally!!!!!

[cruiserboy14]

Thank you! Ya, they are on the list now. I saw on a discussion on here about these:

Real Steel Cruiser Parts

Real Steel Cruiser Parts

www.realsteelcruiserparts.net

This might be in my future. But first I’m just going to enjoy driving again until the drivers fender is fixed.

 

[cruiserboy14]

Good news bad news. I started the cruiser up for the first time in 3 months. It took a minute and there’s a little grinding at startup. I think the grinding is from the drive shaft. It needs greased! Then as I let it run to warm up, I noticed a little puddle under the cruiser. My cruiser doesn’t really leak so I was immediately concerned. It looked like a puddle from an a/c condenser… but I don’t have one. Come to find out a fuel return line ruptured at the bracket on the battery tray. One step forward, one step back. I’ll just replace it with standard fuel line. On the plus side I got myself a “new” vice. This should come in handy later.

 

[Green Bean]

Good news bad news. I started the cruiser up for the first time in 3 months. It took a minute and there’s a little grinding at startup. I think the grinding is from the drive shaft. It needs greased! Then as I let it run to warm up, I noticed a little puddle under the cruiser. My cruiser doesn’t really leak so I was immediately concerned. It looked like a puddle from an a/c condenser… but I don’t have one. Come to find out a fuel return line ruptured at the bracket on the battery tray. One step forward, one step back. I’ll just replace it with standard fuel line. On the plus side I got myself a “new” vice. This should come in handy later.

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That is a very cool looking vice. What is the history/vintage?

 

[cruiserboy14]

That is a very cool looking vice. What is the history/vintage?

It’s a blacksmith or leg vice. The jaws are not stuck open when the screw opens them. They can be pushed closed with a leg or hand to hold hot work now, and tighten second. It also closes faster than a normal vice to get to smithing faster. The vice is also smithed instead of cast, so it can stand more beating without breaking. And lastly it has a long “leg” to transfer the force of blows to the ground instead of taking all the force on the vice. Hence leg vice. I believe it’s more than likely from around the turn of the century.

 

[cruiserboy14]

Finally replaced the drivers side fender. The fender went on fine, but the apron didn’t align properly. I think someday I’ll have to replace it with a better fender if I want things to align better (such as the front part that has no bolts currently). But it is far better than it was. I may need a new starter as mine grinds a little and is slow. I’m truly hoping the grind is the starter and not an engine problem!

 

[cruiserboy14]

Also started some wall art. It’s an old fiberglass bib I found.

 

[cruiserboy14]

Just about finished my wall art!

 

[cruiserboy14]

Anyone have a junk Toyota grill logo?

 

[4Cruisers]

Anyone have a junk Toyota grill logo?

If you want bling, you can get a new OEM early metal grill emblem from toyotapartsdeal.com for only $28.45.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Maybe ……

I’ll check all my various TEq Worship Shines after dinner

I might just have the droid your looking for ..

 

[cruiserboy14]

I think I have an exhaust leak in my cruiser. I feel it’s from the exhaust manifold as I smell it while driving. It also filled my garage with the door open and the tail out. (By the way, I was able to get the cruiser started to check some things) is this common? I’ve heard of this happening to a few others.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I think I have an exhaust leak in my cruiser. I feel it’s from the exhaust manifold as I smell it while driving. It also filled my garage with the door open and the tail out. (By the way, I was able to get the cruiser started to check some things) is this common? I’ve heard of this happening to a few others.

yes it is

a simple smoke test on a colder running engine will SMOKE out the source


i bet the 2 flanges !

we will see ......

this may help after a solid diagnoses

1/75 -1987 FJ40 / FJ60 Exhaust Down PIPE Repair Kit #1 OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts FJ60 2F Engine Updated / Upgraded Exhaust Manifold to Front Down Pipe Gasket and Special Unique Hardware TORX STuds and Locking Flange Nuts - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts FJ60 2F Engine Updated / Upgraded Exhaust Manifold to Front Down Pipe Gasket and Special Unique...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[cruiserboy14]

yes it is

a simple smoke test on a colder running engine will SMOKE out the source


i bet the 2 flanges !

we will see ......

this may help after a solid diagnoses

1/75 -1987 FJ40 / FJ60 Exhaust Down PIPE Repair Kit #1 OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts FJ60 2F Engine Updated / Upgraded Exhaust Manifold to Front Down Pipe Gasket and Special Unique Hardware TORX STuds and Locking Flange Nuts - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts FJ60 2F Engine Updated / Upgraded Exhaust Manifold to Front Down Pipe Gasket and Special Unique...

vintageteqparts.com

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A smoke test?! I’ve never heard of that?what is it?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

A smoke test?! I’ve never heard of that?what is it?

call me shop hot line now ill explain better faster


PM me if you dont have the TOP secert skunk works access code


thanks

 

[cruiserboy14]

I found my exhaust leak. It didn’t have nuts on it. I checked with Toyota, all parts except the washer on it is NLA.

 

[sggoat]

It’s a blacksmith or leg vice. The jaws are not stuck open when the screw opens them. They can be pushed closed with a leg or hand to hold hot work now, and tighten second. It also closes faster than a normal vice to get to smithing faster. The vice is also smithed instead of cast, so it can stand more beating without breaking. And lastly it has a long “leg” to transfer the force of blows to the ground instead of taking all the force on the vice. Hence leg vice. I believe it’s more than likely from around the turn of the century.

That is indeed a great looking leg vice--very good shape--even the jaw spring--which is usu MIA

 

[cruiserboy14]

Thanks to Toyota Matt I repaired my exhaust leak. Then I started to rebuild my front steering. Tie rods, steering damper replacement (back to oem), and front steering arm replacement. Not going well getting the tie rod ends out!!!!!

 

[EWheeler]

Thanks to Toyota Matt I repaired my exhaust leak. Then I started to rebuild my front steering. Tie rods, steering damper replacement (back to oem), and front steering arm replacement. Not going well getting the tie rod ends out!!!!!

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1. If you insist on beating on the end of the tie rod, you should leave the nut on, just a thread proud of the end of the tie rod. This way, you dont mushroom the shank like you have. Youre going to need to cut that off in order to not damage the bore of the steering arm.
2. Using a tierod removal tool results in less damage to parts.

 

[cruiserboy14]

@EWheeler thank you for the advice! I didn’t think to keep a nut on. There’s actually not too much damage to the parts. There’s just a lot of grease and paint from it’s previous life. I’m trying to get a tie rod puller on, but it keeps slipping. I’ll keep soaking them in ob blaster till Ivan find a better remover.

 

[pb4ugo]

I've never used a pickle fork. Your hitting it wrong. Never hit the threaded portion. As you found out, once the nut is tighten to spec, it really doesn't do anything. It's a backup safety thing. It locks the tapers together. To break a taper you need to hit the female portion of the joint/steering arm. You put the nut on to protect the threads from glancing blow & prevent the tre from dropping. It takes a pretty good smack or a bigger hammer. It'll break loose.