Finally started my desmog. Updated with baseline vacuum routing drawings

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Months ago I bought all the desmog components from Jim and some new boost controller silicon tubing (I have the McMaster stuff on there now but sometimes it has torn pretty easily where I can’t see it).

Anyway, getting excited about not have puréed smog vanes going into my air cleaner anymore!

Wondering if anyone used pipe dope on the screws that go into the head after removing the air rail. It looks like when I did my rebuild I may have put some on the air rail when I installed it, but I’d love to hear from others what they did.

Also, what’s up with everything getting sooo much hotter as you go back. I ended up twisting off #6 air rail at the threads (kinda awkward area anyway, so that didn’t help). I do need it for when I return it to smog in 5 years.

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If you're using NPT plugs, no need since they are tapered. I used OEM plugs and applied anti-seize since I need to be able to swap the rail back on when smog comes around.
 
Those air rail plugs are loose and I’m putting in the JimC plugs shown here. Hi temp pipe dope or no?

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If you're using NPT plugs, no need since they are tapered. I used OEM plugs and applied anti-seize since I need to be able to swap the rail back on when smog comes around.

Do you know if these from Jim are NPT? I think they probably are.

Maybe just anti seize then. That’s a thought. Duh.
 
Do you know if these from Jim are NPT? I think they probably are.

Maybe just anti seize then. That’s a thought. Duh.

Not sure what he provides, if they aren't tapered, then its just M14x1.5 and antiseize is all I would use. If it has a taper, then I would still probably use antiseize since they have to come out. @FJ40Jim will have the final say though on what he provides.
 
Thanks for your input!
 
Making some room!

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Just did this on my 3FE, and I used caps on the air rail. I put some permatex high temp thread sealant on them as well as the plug for the exhaust. You have a lot more room to work on the air rail than the 3FE!
 
I like room.

Where’d you source the caps? Sounds like a great way to do it - I don’t think I’ve heard of doing that before. For the exhaust, are you talking about where the check valve is? Did you Remove the check valve and replace with the plug?
 
I found brass air rail plugs in the plumbing section at Ace Hardware. Slightly more expensive than various Mud sources, but totally satisfactory. I used pipe dope (PTFE paste) on mine.
 
This is the official Toyota plug to install in the head to plug the removed air injection nozzles. They're $$

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Pretty. They don’t look tapered either.

Here’s what I’m thinking: I like the idea of using the pipe dope. That’s what I had on the airrail and it works by keeping the moisture off the threads so they don’t get any moisture between the mating threads and they don’t rust, and don’t seize. I don’t have a lot of experience with this but that is my observation after a year or two of running it this way. On the other hand, I know a lot of people like anti seize but my experience is sometimes the anti seize burns up and doesn’t hold up. Maybe I’m using the wrong anti seize, just the basic silver stuff from O’reilly’s.

I don’t think it will hurt to run these with the hi temp pipe dope. So, maybe it’s just a personal preference kind of thing.
 
Pretty. They don’t look tapered either.

Here’s what I’m thinking: I like the idea of using the pipe dope. That’s what I had on the airrail and it works by keeping the moisture off the threads so they don’t get any moisture between the mating threads and they don’t rust, and don’t seize. I don’t have a lot of experience with this but that is my observation after a year or two of running it this way. On the other hand, I know a lot of people like anti seize but my experience is sometimes the anti seize burns up and doesn’t hold up. Maybe I’m using the wrong anti seize, just the basic silver stuff from O’reilly’s.

I don’t think it will hurt to run these with the hi temp pipe dope. So, maybe it’s just a personal preference kind of thing.

Yes, for high temp you need to use Nickel Antiseize, good past 2k degrees. I use for all egr components and after a year it loosens up with ease.
 
No pipe dope is going to work with continuous exposure to 1,200°F temps.

Normally the plugs are installed dry so they will become one with the head casting.

If the plan is really to remove in the future, then hi-temp anti-seez is your best hope.
 
Yep, I have to smog it back in 5 years when it comes time get emissions here again. Thanks for the advice.
 
I used the OEM plugs(yes the spendy ones) and put nothing on them......no issues after 2 years
 
Cool thanks @Landpimp. I looked up to temp of the “hi temp” permatext sealant and it only goes up to 400-500 degrees F. I had used it previously in a couple areas of he head and had no problems - and everything came out easy and clean with sealant still visible, but dry. With the knowledge shared here, and needing to get it out in 5 years, I’m going to use the aluminum anti seize I have already, it’s goes to 1800 degrees F. I just don’t don’t want to buy another bottle of the copper stuff since I’ll never go thru it, and the bottle I already have. The copper anti seize Jim recommended goes to 2400 degrees.
 
Documenting my planned vacuum routing here: it’s based on borick, mweb60, and JimC comments from the “my desmog thread”. I’ll be editing and adding information as I go but this will be my baseline. Sorry for the poor handwriting, it will make it difficult to want to read it but well, I just wanted to document and understand it better and it worked for me.

I haven’t figured out if there’s another way to import pictures smaller - I just take the default to upload.

Primary Vacuum Advance:
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Evaporative Cannister
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Fuel Cut
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Distributor Vent
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HAC (keeping since I operate @5300-6300’)

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