Builds 88 FJ62 added to the stable (2 Viewers)

[3pits]

Dont lose the key from the crank, and for all thats holy (about your wallet,) dont break the pulley from the rubber...

If you use the original mounting points, ive not needed to add any additional support to a cut fan shroud. And im a founding member of the "over do it club".. it is eaaily the best mod ive done to my 62.
While the trans hoses are being made consider having them add a bung for am aftermarket transmission gauge and extra cooler.

 

[emac]

Dont lose the key from the crank, and for all thats holy (about your wallet,) dont break the pulley from the rubber...

If you use the original mounting points, ive not needed to add any additional support to a cut fan shroud. And im a founding member of the "over do it club".. it is eaaily the best mod ive done to my 62.
While the trans hoses are being made consider having them add a bung for am aftermarket transmission gauge and extra cooler.

Great advice @3pits , thank you. The crank pulley came off very easy, as I barely had to use a puller. I mostly wiggled it by hand, as I didnt want it to hit the ground. I guess oil leaks aren't all bad, as they keeps things lubed and rust free!

I read several threads about oil coolers, and that may be a good idea. I really dont plan to do any towing or heavy off road use, but it may be valuable for resale.

 

[3pits]

Transmission/fluid coolers are about $40, and heat is the devil to ATF.

My AT temp light came on while going to Ceasars Head in SC. the fluid turned more brown and my nerves were kind of frazzled after that...worried i had killed my daily driver.

It prob. cost more than $40 to change the burnt fluid...


While its apart, used compressed air to blow out the cooler in the bottom of the radiator. Do not apply air pressure to your transmission.

 

[emac]

A little update.

I have replaced all the engine pulley bearings, water pump, resealed front timing cover, new front seal, all the water hoses including rear heater, PS pump rebuilt, new PS lines, new tranny lines with an added cooler, new tranny filter, had radiator boiled out and checked. Lots of small vacuum lines, adjusted valves, cap rotor, plugs.....

Stripped bumpers, and exterior trim. Removed interior and pleased that I did not find any noticeable rust, but front passenger floor was wet. Probably from me pressure washing underside. I took some time to replace the shifter bushings. They were completely gone! Well worth the effort.

I am chasing down a warning light issue after replacing the alternator. I bought a cheapo one, and think it is causing the issue. Ordered a factory remanufactured one. I went a head and desmogged the motor. Hoses were all leaking and it makes everything tough to get to...especially the alternator. Currently waiting on a few plugs for the smog stuff and the new alternator.

Hopefully another week or two to get it back running, then I will bring it to the body shop. When I get it to the body shop, then I will recondition/clean the parts I have removed.

Making baby steps. Who ever came up with the idea of cutting the shroud in half gets a steak dinner from me! Who ever designed the radiator bolts that aren't captured was an idiot and deserves a kick in the butt!

 

[emac]

Update. While I was waiting for the alternator to come, I decided to desmog the motor. I used @Spook50 guide. What a great reference. It really cleans up the engine bay and makes getting to the alternator super easy. i still need to make a better EGR block off plate now that I have a gasket for reference. I installed the new toyota alternator and everything is doing great. No lights. It seemed to take a few minutes for the idle to smooth out.

The rig would run for a few minutes and randomly just quit. It eventually would fire back up and do it again. Once I got it running again, I started checking connections. It ended up being a corroded connector on the thermostat housing. The plug next to what I believe is the temp gauge sensor. When I jiggled the plug the engine quit. Cleaned it up and it is really running smooth. I think my smog stuff was really is bad shape.

I have a pretty good rear main seal leak, but I think I am going to get it painted first and then pull the tranny. I need a break.

I have lots of new parts ready to install and a good bit of stuff to clean up and paint.

The 62 is really starting to grow on me. Next pics should be from the body shop.

 

[Spook50]

Did you save the EGR union that you took out of the manifold? I found that the brass expands and contracts a lot and will loosen up pretty quickly, so I cut one of the threaded ends off the union, welded a small piece of 1/4" steel to it, ground the top so it would match the hex portion and reinstalled it to the manifold. It stays good and tight and I haven't had to touch it since I desmogged my rig.

 

[emac]

Did you save the EGR union that you took out of the manifold? I found that the brass expands and contracts a lot and will loosen up pretty quickly, so I cut one of the threaded ends off the union, welded a small piece of 1/4" steel to it, ground the top so it would match the hex portion and reinstalled it to the manifold. It stays good and tight and I haven't had to touch it since I desmogged my rig.

Yes, I saved everything. I thought about just finding a cap to go on the union, especially when I was fighting to get it out! I will keep an eye on the brass plug and take your advice if it wiggles loose. Thanks again for the write up, it was really helpful.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Did you save the EGR union that you took out of the manifold? I found that the brass expands and contracts a lot and will loosen up pretty quickly, so I cut one of the threaded ends off the union, welded a small piece of 1/4" steel to it, ground the top so it would match the hex portion and reinstalled it to the manifold. It stays good and tight and I haven't had to touch it since I desmogged my rig.

So why brass then? Wouldn't a 3/4" iron plug with a square head also work? Another question is what tool do you use to screw that plug in with. Seems like an extra large hex key would be necessary.

 

[emac]

Yes, it takes a large Allen wrench. I am in favor of the iron plug, and looked for one at Lowes, but as usual, my Lowes is rarely stocked.

 

[Kleatus]

I couldn’t get the union out of the manifold, but found that a quarter fits nicely inside the original Union nut and is soft enough to make a good seal when tightened down.

 

[Spook50]

So why brass then? Wouldn't a 3/4" iron plug with a square head also work? Another question is what tool do you use to screw that plug in with. Seems like an extra large hex key would be necessary.

An iron plug should work as well. When I first did my desmog a brass plug was the only thing I could find locally that fit. When that didn't work out I improvised and modified the EGR union.

 

[Saucerman]

This is another build that is awesome to watch and learn from.

 

[emac]

Brought it to the body shop on Friday to talk about what needs to be done. He cant get to it for a few weeks, so I decided to tackle a few other things. I thought I had a leaky rear main seal, so I removed the bell housing plate and it appeared very dry. I think al my pressure washing when I first got it allowed a good bit of water into the bell housing. That is why the last time time I drove it around it didnt seem to be leaking. Good news! Fingers crossed.

I fixed a broken connector on the TC electrical sensor with a weather pack connector. Wish I new the routing of the wires around the tranny and TC as I had a lot of wires just resting on top of the TC around the shifter area. I Organized them with zip ties but I am sure they were routed better from the factory.

Drained the TC, and noted it wasn't overfilled, so maybe the seal from the TC to the tranny is good. More good news. After looking at everything it appears someone has been in the TC and the tranny has been out sometime in the past. PO new nothing about the rig when he got it several years ago.

Changed front and rear diff oil, adjusted rear brakes, new front pads, and flushed the brake fluid using a mity Vac suction.

I noticed one of the O2 sensor studs was broken and was an obvious exhaust leak. I removed both header pipes and got all four header to exhaust nuts off without breaking them! Soaking overnight with Kroil oil is the key. I had to cut the bolts at the cats. Drilled, tapped and added a new O2 sensor stud. I took a look into the cats and they look pretty clean and intact. I think they will remain for now. Amazing how well the OEM exhaust has lasted. Header pipes are still very solid. I think the muffler has been replaced, but they did a nice job and kept all the factory mounts. Only one was broken.

Placed an order for OEM gaskets and stuff. Another weekend.....another parts order.

I would have taken some pictures of the O2 fix, but I wasnt sure if I could get it to work out and didnt want to jinx myself! My list is getting shorter.

 

[emac]

I have been searching for the perfect piece of scrap metal to make my block off plate for the EGR. Finally found it!

 

[emac]

Finally got the 62 to the body shop and quickly discovered a lot of bondo on the fenders, so I have found some used ones ($$) and hopefully they will ship very soon. The body shop seems to be doing a very good job. They decided to remove the doors and rear hatch to paint the jams. They just didn't think it would look right cutting that corner. He knows me well, and knows I like it right. The money will be missed for a short time but crappy door jambs last forever! Its going to look nice!

 

[Comet]

Inspiration for sure. Thanks for providing some visual documentation of your journey. I understand the comment earlier about just needing a break. I'm currently on break from Buster Brown. Love the breaker bar you made for the crank bolt. I named mine (similar home made design) the "Angry Duck".

 

[emac]

Finally got some fenders in hand last week and I stopped by the shop today. Good timing as they had just put down the base coat! It should be ready to bring home next week. Then I have to put it all back together. That is the part I love!

 

[SteveH]

Looking very good!

 

[mattressking]

Too bad they couldn't mask off the frame but I suppose you can clean it up and spray black later.

 

[emac]

Too bad they couldn't mask off the frame but I suppose you can clean it up and spray black later.

It needed repainting! I am going to do all that during reassembly.