Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (1 Viewer)

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What is your opinion of the aftermarket regulator? I was planning on going OEM but the cheapest I've seen new is $100+. I did find a used one but it costs nearly the same as the one you bought.

The DORMAN regulator that I got has been great so far. Greased everything per the FSM, and then put it back together... Really the process maybe took me 1 1/2hrs and that is counting the run to NAPA to grab some new screws because I messed up the old ones that hold the arm. Actually I would go buy a bunch of new ones just for piece of mind when attaching the door again, I believe they are M8x1.75thread pitch. If you look in the window regulator threads I commented with what I got and JimC confirmed it was right.

Ever decide what route you were going with these? I need to replace both of mine and prob the gate lock as well.

No I haven't done anything yet about the door lock. I did talk with Sam Stewart and they are still available from Toyota but you either have to buy just the drivers side lock or then entire set which is ignition, doors and rear hatch. Not incredibly expensive if I remember correctly. I will eventually get just the drivers lock i believe.

You beat me to it! I was going to say that line looked angled a little too far to seat right. I had that same thing happen when I bent up new fuel lines for my truck.

Yeah the line was just not seating right and it was my fault. I ended up using a piece of leftover PVC pipe to help get nice, clean bends. She works great now, and really for $6/ea you can't go wrong with the new lines.
 
hit me up if you need help with the knuckle rebuild, i have a 54mm socket you can borrow if you need it plus a little bit of know-how since i just rebuilt mine last month. not a bad job, but buy lots of disposable gloves, TP and shop towels for knuckle rebuild

Thanks dude I will definitely hit you up for it. I did see that NAPA had a "TOYOTA HUB SOCKET" at their store but was like $45 and looked to be the 54mm one but could not find a size on it for the life of me. More than likely I will make a nice Costco run for towels when I do it, my wife is a hairstylist so I can get gloves for cheap but they are not as thick as the ones you get at one of the autoparts stores.
 
Thanks dude I will definitely hit you up for it. I did see that NAPA had a "TOYOTA HUB SOCKET" at their store but was like $45 and looked to be the 54mm one but could not find a size on it for the life of me. More than likely I will make a nice Costco run for towels when I do it, my wife is a hairstylist so I can get gloves for cheap but they are not as thick as the ones you get at one of the autoparts stores.

ya no problemo. i might need to enlist your help though to look at a cruiser for me out in Carson that my dad and i are interested in.

i just use nitrile gloves from the drugstore/walmart
 
ya no problemo. i might need to enlist your help though to look at a cruiser for me out in Carson that my dad and i are interested in.

i just use nitrile gloves from the drugstore/walmart

Absolutely just let me know and I will take a ton of pics. Is it one of the ones on CL? If it is the one for $1800 steer clear, that thing had so many rust through spots that it was ridiculous. PM when you want me to look.
 
No I haven't done anything yet about the door lock. I did talk with Sam Stewart and they are still available from Toyota but you either have to buy just the drivers side lock or then entire set which is ignition, doors and rear hatch. Not incredibly expensive if I remember correctly. I will eventually get just the drivers lock i believe.

I could actually stand to replace the ignition too so I may be calling my local dealer soon.
 
I could actually stand to replace the ignition too so I may be calling my local dealer soon.

Look up Sam Stewart on here and shot him a PM. Gives a 25% discount to MUD members.
 
Absolutely just let me know and I will take a ton of pics. Is it one of the ones on CL? If it is the one for $1800 steer clear, that thing had so many rust through spots that it was ridiculous. PM when you want me to look.

that would be the one...haha pm sent
 
Carb Fan Fixed!!!

So I finally got a chance to take care of something that has been bugging me today. Ever since I bought the truck I have had a hot start issue and the knew the carb fan never worked. Finally got some time to dig into it a bit and sure enough, a line that had been broken when I first bought the truck and I removed when I was desmogging was the culprit.

Thanks to Klinetime's pics of where the carb fan sensor is, I was able to find mine and sure enough the ring connector was still attached. Got a new ring connector on there (nut that holds it is 7mm by the way) and a new length of wire to the piece that was still sticking out of my wire loom.

Sure enough after a run around the block the carb fan turns on after shutdown!!! Fan ran for about 10 minutes or so while I pulled my cluster to see what was going on with my speedo cable. Happy this is working now and hopefully will help the hot start issue.

Now the speedo cable is another issue. Whatever you do DO NOT buy the cheap aftermarket one from CCOT. Mine lasted all of 4 months before it broke. When I pulled the cluster today here is what I found.


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

So looks like Kurt will be getting an order from me soon for a new OE one.
 
ah, its not like you need the speedo cable, 60 series cant break the speed limit anyway ;)

did you get around to fixing the brake drums? i dont recall reading that it was completed 100% and am too lazy to read back :D
 
Thanks to Klinetime's pics of where the carb fan sensor is...

Can you share this picture? I have the same pesky hot start problems and know that my carb fan doesn't turn on. I'd love to fix it. The most annoying thing is that my truck gets a lot of looks and admiration until I try to hot start it and the onlookers are thinking it is an old POS because it's hard to start up. :-(
 
Ankur,
It's in the "carb fan on FJ60, not turning on" thread, second page. Sorry, I don't know how to link on the iPad app.

Danny
 
Ankur,
It's in the "carb fan on FJ60, not turning on" thread, second page. Sorry, I don't know how to link on the iPad app.

Danny

Dan is right but here is the link to Kline's post

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8095418&postcount=18

And walker, no I have not pulled the rears apart again to fix the one bell crank. However, I did get under it the other day while I had a friend on the pedal and found that my front calipers are oozing brake fluid. Takes a week or two for the res to start missing fluid and only under heavy braking. So looks like new calipers are in my future as well (but sssshhh dont tell the wife that one).
 
Dan is right but here is the link to Kline's post

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8095418&postcount=18

And walker, no I have not pulled the rears apart again to fix the one bell crank. However, I did get under it the other day while I had a friend on the pedal and found that my front calipers are oozing brake fluid. Takes a week or two for the res to start missing fluid and only under heavy braking. So looks like new calipers are in my future as well (but sssshhh dont tell the wife that one).

where do the calipers leak from? i rebuilt my calipers entirely and used a smidge of RTV in between the 2 halves to keep them from leaking then tightened them back up and it works well.
 
They look to be oozing out from the lower piston. I have a feeling the boots are completely gone. The rebuild didn't look to bad but didn't know if I wanted to go that route or not.

Care to elaborate on your rebuild?
 
So should be getting my tune-up kit from Georg today in the mail which means I have some fun this weekend. It has literally been 20+yrs since I have timed a vehicle using a timing light and even then that was more me holding the gun while my dad did what he needed. I have looked to try and find the BB on the flywheel but have yet to see it.

From what I have read you can remove the flywheel inspection cover and find it that way, clean up the area and mark it? Is this true? Would appreciate any tips on this before I decide to take a stab at it.

Caliper Rebuild kit will be on order soon and that will be the next task to hopefully remedy my final brake issues. From there I will be ordering knuckle rebuild kits and then hopefully I can get on to more aesthetic and fun stuff like a new stereo head unit, rear interior panels, etc.
 
for my rebuild, the pistons and all that were still good so i just cleaned thm up a bit, split them in half cleaned them of gunk and put a thin film of RTV between the healves so they wouldnt leak. i didnt need any replacement parts and the rubber covers were still in excellent shape.

btw greg, im more than likely going to need to give you a call later this week o next since my drum brake is leaking
 
See I have a feeling that my boots are gone and that is where the leaking if coming from but figure the replacement kit will give me piece of mind when replacing all those seals and plastic/rubber parts.

Let me know what you need. Seriously the swap with new parts took me all of 5hrs and with was with me dinking around (cussing and what not) on the first side for about an hour or so trying to figure out why my damn drums wouldnt come off.. You have to back those F:censored: way off before the drums will pull, also grab yourself a set of 10mx1.25 bolts in a decent length, they will help pop those drums off if they have frozen to the hub like my right side was.
 

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