Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

LOL... this is Carson City, cute girls either work at Starbucks, hair salons, or at the car dealership. She was ok.
 
Well finally got around to replacing my leaking heater hose this weekend and my brake master cylinder.
All I can say is HOLY CRAP I HAVE BRAKES!!! The truck actually stops when I want it to!!

Here are some pics of the replacement. My hard lines between my m/c and clutch slave were stripped so I had to take those out and replace them. No big deal as they were about $6/ea from O'Reilly however it looks like the one that is on the drives side of the slave is leaking. New line in there? Kinda confused as to why because it threaded right in so it wasn't cross threaded or anything.


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Here is the line that is leaking. No leaks anywhere else and it is enough that there is usually a drip of two on the ground when I stop. Only thing I can think of is that the threads are goobered up or the line wasn't in properly and seems cock-eyed which is creating a leak.
Thoughts?

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr
 
Well the line from the m/c to the clutch slave is definitely buggered. Went out for a drive tonight and while stopped on a decline the brakes would slowly let out on me. Would start to roll forward and could feel the pedal give a bit, would press harder, rinse and repeat.

Luckily I have another line that I picked up on a whim since I figured that line was leaking for a reason. Just hope that it is not the clutch slave for some reason.
 
Well finally got everything sorted today...
New hardline for the master went in early this week, too my time and used some old pvc pipe to help with my bends as it looks like the line was pulling on the flare nut in a way that was making it leak. Didn't have any problems after that and had a few days without any brake leaks!

Tonight was the big adventure, did the rear wheel cylinders and new shoes. Total time took me about 5hrs with most of the time really being spent futzing with the star wheel and trying to get it loose to remove the drum. One shoe was cracked and I have one completely seized closed bell crank. Tomorrow when the wife is around I have to bleed the system then bed the shoes.

Some photos...

New vs old

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

The dirtyness

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

New Hotness..

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

The cracks...

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr
 
G,

Those pics looked just like mine a few months back...
DSCN3376.webp
DSCN3388.webp
 
Yea but you put all new spring hardware and did new drums... Didn't have quite that much to do this so I figure when I get the new bell cranks I will get new drums and possibly spring hardware.
 
Not really sure I didn't pull to inspect but they are only $16/ea so figured I would really just replace the entire assembly.
 
So got the wife to help me bleed the brakes and good thing as there was plenty of air in the lines after swapping the cylinders.. However something still doesn't feel right. Took it for a spin and I definitely need to adjust the pedal height and everything per the FSM but I feel like I have more travel than I should, which again I think may be from the pedal height problem.

The other thing I noticed was that under HARD braking I felt a pop towards the bottom of the stroke, but only during HARD braking. After that the pedal goes back to feeling the way it did before the pop. So I am wondering if one of my caliper boots or seals is trashed.

This week looks like it is going to be nice so I may put the truck up on the jacks and pull apart the rears again and pull the bell cranks out to see if I cant get them both cleaned up nice. Just sucks not having a two car garage or shop to do work in.
 
gregnash said:
So got the wife to help me bleed the brakes and good thing as there was plenty of air in the lines after swapping the cylinders.. However something still doesn't feel right. Took it for a spin and I definitely need to adjust the pedal height and everything per the FSM but I feel like I have more travel than I should, which again I think may be from the pedal height problem.

The other thing I noticed was that under HARD braking I felt a pop towards the bottom of the stroke, but only during HARD braking. After that the pedal goes back to feeling the way it did before the pop. So I am wondering if one of my caliper boots or seals is trashed.

This week looks like it is going to be nice so I may put the truck up on the jacks and pull apart the rears again and pull the bell cranks out to see if I cant get them both cleaned up nice. Just sucks not having a two car garage or shop to do work in.
Click to expand...

G, you probably did this and I know we've covered it somewhere before. Bleed from the furthest line to the closest with slow and steady pedal pushes.

I hear you on a shop or a big area to work in. I miss my shop in WY badly. I have a 2-car garage here, but it just seems so small.

J
 
reevesci said:
G, you probably did this and I know we've covered it somewhere before. Bleed from the furthest line to the closest with slow and steady pedal pushes.

I hear you on a shop or a big area to work in. I miss my shop in WY badly. I have a 2-car garage here, but it just seems so small.

J
Click to expand...

LOL.... SMALL says the man that had a shop bigger than my entire house!! Yeah I did and after using the parking brake a few times now the braking is getting better. Hoping that my training is cancelled this week then I can pull the cruiser apart and work on the bell cranks over a couple days and ride the bike to work. Supposed to be in the mid 50s this week.
 
gregnash said:
LOL.... SMALL says the man that had a shop bigger than my entire house!! Yeah I did and after using the parking brake a few times now the braking is getting better. Hoping that my training is cancelled this week then I can pull the cruiser apart and work on the bell cranks over a couple days and ride the bike to work. Supposed to be in the mid 50s this week.
Click to expand...

Mid 50s.... That's shorts and flip flop weather. :D

J
 
LOL for me it is seeing as it hasn't been much higher than the 30s as of late and I am missing my bike.

Crawled under the truck for a few today and I am going to have to investigate the front brakes too. Think I have a leak on both sides, not to mention the right knuckle is leaking pretty good now.

Looks like the list is getting bigger.
 
gregnash said:
I bought through the regulator from autoparts.titan1 for a total of $53.11 shipped!! Ordered on Tuesday and was on my door on Friday evening.
Click to expand...

What is your opinion of the aftermarket regulator? I was planning on going OEM but the cheapest I've seen new is $100+. I did find a used one but it costs nearly the same as the one you bought.

gregnash said:
Ok so the next, cheapish, item will be to replace the drivers side door lock cylinder.
I have found Airtek replacements on ebay for about $45 but would like to buy from a Mud vendor if possible. Checking around for the Toyota P/N#69320‑90A00 I did find what I was looking for but they are over $100/ea!!!!

Any recommendations on where to buy?
Click to expand...

Ever decide what route you were going with these? I need to replace both of mine and prob the gate lock as well.

gregnash said:
Well finally got everything sorted today...
New hardline for the master went in early this week, too my time and used some old pvc pipe to help with my bends as it looks like the line was pulling on the flare nut in a way that was making it leak. Didn't have any problems after that and had a few days without any brake leaks!
Click to expand...

You beat me to it! I was going to say that line looked angled a little too far to seat right. I had that same thing happen when I bent up new fuel lines for my truck.
 
gregnash said:
LOL for me it is seeing as it hasn't been much higher than the 30s as of late and I am missing my bike.

Crawled under the truck for a few today and I am going to have to investigate the front brakes too. Think I have a leak on both sides, not to mention the right knuckle is leaking pretty good now.

Looks like the list is getting bigger.
Click to expand...

hit me up if you need help with the knuckle rebuild, i have a 54mm socket you can borrow if you need it plus a little bit of know-how since i just rebuilt mine last month. not a bad job, but buy lots of disposable gloves, TP and shop towels for knuckle rebuild
 
KWalkerM said:
hit me up if you need help with the knuckle rebuild, i have a 54mm socket you can borrow if you need it plus a little bit of know-how since i just rebuilt mine last month. not a bad job, but buy lots of disposable gloves, TP and shop towels for knuckle rebuild
Click to expand...

Yup, definitely going to need a lot of TP to clean the crap off your knuckles . . . Sorry, couldn't resist :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

WyattEarp1789
Finally, '89 FJ62.
Replies
7
Views
520
WyattEarp1789
WyattEarp1789
sp73
FJ60 FINALLY
Replies
0
Views
474
sp73
sp73
C
Finally Back in a 60 series!
Replies
7
Views
1K
CheyenneCruiser
C
snowyhermit
My Rusty FJ62
2
Replies
26
Views
3K
snowyhermit
snowyhermit

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom