Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (1 Viewer)

[gregnash]

Thanks. I'm interested in what you find out, and how serious the mods to the gas tank would need to be.

Thanks.. not going to happen for some time but will happen. I am assuming mods to the tank for FiTech's in tank solution would be similar to what @cruiser enthuiser did to his rig for his in-tank pump for his V8 conversion. They do offer an in-line and external pump solution as well with their other packages.

 

[gregnash]

Next on the agenda is replacing my broken ass steering column clamshell. Looks like it is still available from Mr. T so calling @beno in a bit here to see about getting that ordered before it goes to unobtanium. Mine is literally held on by the two most forward screws, nice big hole in the side from where the PO attempted to put a cruise control in YEARS ago and all other connection points are busted.

 

[gregnash]

So got one of these over the weekend as it hasn't really gotten above 45* all but one day and that day got up to about 55* and then dropped like a rock as soon as the sun hit the mountains.

Used it last night in the garage and heated things up nicely while I was doing some woodworking for the new salon. While I was at it I lined the rim of my Smittybilt console with some U-Channel Edge guard to keep it from constantly squeaking. Best $10 I have spent recently!

But after the rad swap I got a new issue that I am going to have to take care of quickly. Believe that I either have throttle linkage binding somewhere, a vacuum leak or my accelerator pump is sticking, but for some reason while driving my idle wants to climb to 2k+. Quick pump of the gas normally brings the idle back down to around 900rpm to 1k but still that is too high for my liking. Luckily I have @HemiAlex spare carb that I can throw on there just need some time to do it.

Anyone got any idea or information around why pumping the gas like that will drop the rpm?

 

[micruz60]

Idle control solenoid?
Usually kicks in at 1200-1500 rpm upon deceleration, but you may have a different issue?

 

[gregnash]

Idle control solenoid?
Usually kicks in at 1200-1500 rpm upon deceleration, but you may have a different issue?

Yeah was part of my thinking. ICS is aftermarket one from Cool Cruisers as my OEM was dead. Always had a bit of a high idle issue simply due to a small vacuum leak at the manifold from it not being completely flat when I had it machined two years ago. Just weird that it would suddenly crop up like this out of no where, haven't touched anything in the engine bay other than doing the radiator a couple weeks ago.

My thoughts are ICS is jacked up or I have developed a massive vacuum leak somewhere due to all the cold weather.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Are you saying when it was machined they didn’t make it flat enough?

 

[gregnash]

Are you saying when it was machined they didn’t make it flat enough?

Correct. Like you did with your manifold, there is the slightest gap at the intake which causes a slight vacuum leak. How I know is that I have sprayed carb cleaner at those locations and gotten the engine to idle up briefly. Hence why I had talked about doing the double gasket at one point. Right now, taking it off and trying to find a machining shop that knows what they are doing and doing it properly is not in the cards. Having it idle slightly higher than normal, around 1k but no higher, has been something I was ok with but this where it is suddenly wanting to idle at 2k or higher when I push in the clutch and am driving is no bueno!

 

[micruz60]

Does the high idle go away after the engine is up to operating temps?

Thinking that the vac leak closes up after expansion of the metals.

 

[gregnash]

Does the high idle go away after the engine is up to operating temps?

Thinking that the vac leak closes up after expansion of the metals.

Negative ghostrider.... Truck will idle fine when I first start up but once I start moving then high idle kicks in. Sometimes a single pump of the gas as I come to a stop sign/light will drop down to 1k or below, sometimes it take multiple pumps. Once the truck cools down tonight I am going to pull my plugs and see if one (or more) of them looks nasty. Maybe something else is going on. Check the vacuum lines real quick on lunch and everything looks to be fine, dizzy is not loose so not like it suddenly went out of phase or moved.

Got to take some pics of the vac lines so that I can hook everything back up quickly once I swap with @HemiAlex 's spare. Believe his has been rebuilt by JimC so that will take the carb out of the equation for the time being. When I have a little more time I will retrace all my vac lines to ensure they are hooked properly. After that will have to be going deeper into things and replacing the manifold gasket and possibly doubling if the vac leak at the manifold still exists.

What I dont get is why this suddenly cropped up out of nowhere.

 

[gregnash]

Had a little time last night while I was waiting for stain to dry on my woodworking project so pulled BeBe into the garage to do some investigation as to what was going on.
Pulled the air cleaner assembly and filter was just fine looking, everything was buttoned up nice and tight on it, though that shouldn't be causing my issue.

Pulled all the plugs and each one looked exactly like this. If anything I might be running a bit rich? Thoughts?
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Checked all the vacuum lines to the carb and both ends were in good condition, not brittle or broken, nothing that would cause leaks and all were connected securely. Marked them to pull possibly tonight.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Couple things I did notice was that there was wetness and "grease" around the AC Pump arm, and the primary throttle shaft, rest of the carb was pretty clean so wondering if as the carb heats up the bushings in the throttle shaft become loose and are causing a leak. Is that possible? Might have to send it off to @NeverGiveUpYota rebuild guy in Oregon.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Took some pictures of the linkage side thinking maybe someone like @FJ40Jim, @Spike Strip, @OSS or @CaptClose might see something that I am not and find a bind point or something.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr


Happened to be walking out of Home Depot and just had to take a pic of this. Original V8 in it still, carb'd engine and all!
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

 

[OSS]

for some reason while driving my idle wants to climb to 2k+. Quick pump of the gas normally brings the idle back down to around 900rpm

From my experience with vacuum leaks - they only make the quality of the idle rougher and drop the RPMs. You can see for yourself just by pulling a vac hose while at idle (pulling the AC idle up hose on the brake booster fitting is a good example). A vac leak will never cause the idle to stick at 2000 rpm.

I'm thinking that the carb linkages somewhere are binding. Time too clean up that sucker. Your pic shows a grimy accel pump boot. That needs to be replaced. The boot will eventually rot and pieces of it and dirt will end up in the accel pump bore which can migrate to the float bowl - then get sucked into the main jet and cause blockage mayhem.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

And Marks contact is in my signature line. IF it was your throttle shaft you only need to spray carb spray at the shaft and wiggle it while truck is running and see how it reacts. He’s a good guy too. Easy to talk too and willing to guide you on diagnostics over the phone.
Agreed w/ Fred. If your idle is high then it’s most likely something sticking in your linkages. If it improves when you tweak the pedal w/ your foot then try disconnecting it at the linkage and see what happens.

 

[gregnash]

From my experience with vacuum leaks - they only make the quality of the idle rougher and drop the RPMs. You can see for yourself just by pulling a vac hose while at idle (pulling the AC idle up hose on the brake booster fitting is a good example). A vac leak will never cause the idle to stick at 2000 rpm.

I'm thinking that the carb linkages somewhere are binding. Time too clean up that sucker. Your pic shows a grimy accel pump boot. That needs to be replaced. The boot will eventually rot and pieces of it and dirt will end up in the accel pump bore which can migrate to the float bowl - then get sucked into the main jet and cause blockage mayhem.

Ok maybe I am thinking of an EFI system then that will idle up to mask and compensate for a vacuum leak vs. a carb'd system. Been doing a lot of reading/research on the EFI add-on systems like the AFI or FiTech to get a better understanding.

With regards to tweaking the pedal when she is idling high, that no longer works. If she starts going above, say 1500 rpm then I have to give a quick pump of the gas to get it to drop. Sometimes one pump is sufficient, other times it will drop and then idle back up some, sometimes it doesn't do anything and I have to pump it again and it will drop.

 

[micruz60]

Acc pump boot pn is 21699-61010.
As I am currently reworking a carburetor, one thing came to mind that may cause this issue, your a/c idle up?
Doubtful, but trying out Ockhams razor. A/C is off, right?

 

[gregnash]

Acc pump boot pn is 21699-61010.
As I am currently reworking a carburetor, one thing came to mind that may cause this issue, your a/c idle up?
Doubtful, but trying out Ockhams razor. A/C is off, right?

Yup I actually purchased one a while back from CityRacer. Have it in my carb rebuild kit. I thought I read somewhere that you are supposed to soak the leather pump in oil for a while before installing... Wondering that since I dont remember doing this with the rubber pump on the first rebuild if that has caused some of the issues.

And yes, ahead of you on that one. Thought the same thing when it first started happening and found that the AC does work and it does idle up the system as it should. No random, system on without the button pushed type scenario.

Two main things that have happened recently (and really the only things) are;
1. swap of the radiator and,
2. super cold temps at night

Other than that I have just been driving like normal, mainly short trips in town. No wheeling or real long stints up the mountain or anything like that.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

What about the bushings where the linkage hooks up high on the firewall near to the seam of the hood? I was under the impression they wear out and can cause sticking as well.
If I’m way off ignore me.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

And yes soak the acc plunger in oil for a few hours prior to install.

 

[gregnash]

What about the bushings where the linkage hooks up high on the firewall near to the seam of the hood? I was under the impression they wear out and can cause sticking as well.
If I’m way off ignore me.

That's actually a good point F, wonder if that or the point where the linkage arm connects to the pedal at the firewall. I was looking last night and noticed there seems to be an adjuster on that long rod that goes from the pedal to the bracket you are talking about.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

That's actually a good point F, wonder if that or the point where the linkage arm connects to the pedal at the firewall. I was looking last night and noticed there seems to be an adjuster on that long rod that goes from the pedal to the bracket you are talking about.

Yes you can loosen or tighten the rod. I’ve pulled all of that and cleaned every pivot point well... you could too. The balls in the sockets (all I can relate them to) tend to get very evident wear patterns. I think I had tightened mine just a smidge but Check those three bushings up high. I’ve read threads on all sorts of issues w/ high idle esp when my tach on very cold nights was climbing and sticking at 3k although I could hear and feel truck wasn’t actually revving that high.

 

[gregnash]

See the truck is definitely revving that high so it is not some sort of ghost signal or anything like that. Other thing is that this happens all the time regardless of day or night, warm or cold (referring to outside temp as well as engine).