- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
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- Location
- Redding, California
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Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe
- Thread starter gregnash
- Start date
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #1,102
yeah that is what I was looking at was the Monroe... It's like $25 from Amazon Prime so will probably grab through that. And I did notice that they are different as one is for trucks that are WITHOUT and one WITH power steering so looks like it is able to be used on a 40 as well as I can't think of any 60s without PS.
If you originally mounted 1 end to a factory bracket on your frame and the other to a cast hole in your TRE, then you don't need the extra mounting kit. Just be prepared to use a BFH to remove the old dampner and ball joints.
i believe its the cheaper one. There should be no u-bolts in the kit.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #1,107
Not worried about the PCV or grommet as mine are fine. The hose is what is cracked and badly at the EGR side. I tried a little electrical tape and gorilla tape and think that actually made it worse. Hose will be here tomorrow morning so not that worried about it.
That's cool, the 82 just had its PVC hose plugged and stuck in the fire wall. Didn't have no where to put it, pulled a plug out the rear of the intake and flared a piece of 3/8 tubing. Just by chance I was at O Reillys that day for some other parts and just asked to see, didn't expect to hear yes we have them.
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Some non-US 60s (like my 61) had manual steering. I'll have to check but I didn't think there was a difference in the steering dampener.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #1,110
Well got the line yesterday and figured out the occasional stumble.
Line ended up just being 3/8" vacuum line in about 3' of length. Total cost was about $3. Then as I was messing with the truck when I put the line on in the Oreilly parking lot I happened to smack one of the spark plug wires and it moved real easy like. Figured out that somehow it popped out of the socket on the dizzy and was only getting a partial connection. So futzed with that for a minute and finally got it to seat properly in the dizzy. Looks like I was not always running cylinder #5 all the time. This is the third time I have dealt with this issue where the plug wire does not want to seat in the dizzy because the stupid boot isn't allowing it to.
Wire is fine, not damage or anything, they aren't numbered to go to specific plugs so whats the deal????
Line ended up just being 3/8" vacuum line in about 3' of length. Total cost was about $3. Then as I was messing with the truck when I put the line on in the Oreilly parking lot I happened to smack one of the spark plug wires and it moved real easy like. Figured out that somehow it popped out of the socket on the dizzy and was only getting a partial connection. So futzed with that for a minute and finally got it to seat properly in the dizzy. Looks like I was not always running cylinder #5 all the time. This is the third time I have dealt with this issue where the plug wire does not want to seat in the dizzy because the stupid boot isn't allowing it to.
Wire is fine, not damage or anything, they aren't numbered to go to specific plugs so whats the deal????
I know I'm dead on #5 for sure, we were twinsies. I added wires, cap and rotor and it suddenly felt like it pulled with a lot less hesitation.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #1,112
LOL... yeah it is weird, not really quite sure why the boot on the dizzy attachment is so much in the way. When I first redid the head I ran into the same problem and ended up replacing a couple lines since I was having so much trouble with them.
Also decided to give BeBe her first bath in MONTHS last night... so she is nice and clean now. We will see how long that lasts.
Also decided to give BeBe her first bath in MONTHS last night... so she is nice and clean now. We will see how long that lasts.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #1,113
Well been trying my hand at doing my own alignment all week long and still resulted in a wobble at 50mph no matter what I was doing. Tried a couple different methods; jacking front end up and doing line on the tire, string method and even the visual "bypass" method by a guy on youtube that does it on his straight axle dodge. Anyways, finally bit the bullet and dropped it off at Les Schwab this morning. Good thing is they are literally 150yds from my office so I just dropped off on my way in and walked to work.
Toyota wires are numbered. Don't put any dielectric grease inside the boots, it makes them slippery and they don't grip as well.
I've never had Toyota wires work their way off distributor terminals or spark plugs. Maybe that's the issue.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #1,115
Could be as I normally put a little dielectric inside the boot and the terminal on the dizzy.
Well just got back from Les Schwab and looks like I had TOE OUT of 1* on each wheel which was why I was seeing the shake. Then on top of that they actually put a note that they could not properly align my steering wheel as there is excessive play in my steering box. Looks like I will be sending that off to West Texas Offroad this spring/summer for a rebuild.
I set the toe in with a tape and shot for about 1/8" toe in, adjusted the steering box slack (without running the adjuster in to far) then to get the steering wheel straight adjusted the drag links. Guy at front end shop said it was real close, but it took me awhile.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #1,117
Well just went through and retorqued all the headbolts. I have been talking back and forth with Fred (@Output Shaft) about the technique and his seemed to work well. Basically, keep engine running and disassemble as much as you can without damaging engine, then shut engine off and work quickly to pull valvetrain off and do headbolts.
Ended up running into an issue with the #14 (closest to the firewall on drivers side) headbolt as it was stupid hard to get into that area with my wobbles. Got the stupid thing an 1/8th off and then couldn't get it lined up again to tighten. Finally a linking of multiple wobble extensions from HF and I got it tightened down as much as I could muster with the odd angle (which should have been to about spec). Funny thing was that one of the extensions ended up giving up the ghost as I was attempting a second pass to ensure I was getting tight enough.
So now I will give it a few months, get myself a good set of these in hopes to make thing easier in the future. From there will just plan to retorque everything annually (along with checking valves).
July will be the month for a new exhaust for her since hers is pretty shot. Going to talk to a local shop that was recommended to me by a gearhead friend and see if they would be willing to build how I want, basically making junction pieces that are easily removable using something like V-Bands. Probably will cost me a bit more than just going with a standard weld up type exhaust, but would like to keep it interchangeable for future date when I drop a diesel or Vortec into it.
Ended up running into an issue with the #14 (closest to the firewall on drivers side) headbolt as it was stupid hard to get into that area with my wobbles. Got the stupid thing an 1/8th off and then couldn't get it lined up again to tighten. Finally a linking of multiple wobble extensions from HF and I got it tightened down as much as I could muster with the odd angle (which should have been to about spec). Funny thing was that one of the extensions ended up giving up the ghost as I was attempting a second pass to ensure I was getting tight enough.
So now I will give it a few months, get myself a good set of these in hopes to make thing easier in the future. From there will just plan to retorque everything annually (along with checking valves).
July will be the month for a new exhaust for her since hers is pretty shot. Going to talk to a local shop that was recommended to me by a gearhead friend and see if they would be willing to build how I want, basically making junction pieces that are easily removable using something like V-Bands. Probably will cost me a bit more than just going with a standard weld up type exhaust, but would like to keep it interchangeable for future date when I drop a diesel or Vortec into it.
@gregnash a little ways back you discovered the bubbling rust under the chrome trim that sites where the window comes up from inside the door and you asked about removing it.
Did you ever end up doing that?
I got 2 new driver side doors and was starting to fiddle with that piece - after noticing that rust under there seems to be guaranteed. I was starting to pry it loose and it looked like there were little tiny clips down inside the door holding it together. Wasn't sure I'd be able to get it apart without screwing it up.
Looked online and couldn't find the part. SOR was out of them, and wanted $230+ for used ones IF they could get them. Also didn't see any mention of the clips...
Did you ever end up doing that?
I got 2 new driver side doors and was starting to fiddle with that piece - after noticing that rust under there seems to be guaranteed. I was starting to pry it loose and it looked like there were little tiny clips down inside the door holding it together. Wasn't sure I'd be able to get it apart without screwing it up.
Looked online and couldn't find the part. SOR was out of them, and wanted $230+ for used ones IF they could get them. Also didn't see any mention of the clips...
