Final 4 Link Calculations (1 Viewer)

[Chop Shop]

Nota.......jeep

You catch so much s*** cuz you spew bad advice like gospel and stand behind it like you have experience.

You have no clue what you are talking about and have demonstrated it several times. Others have tried to give you advice and constructive criticism but you just blow them off only to then rationalize your bad decisions and try to explain them in another way to further prove you are BLIND to what folks are telling you.


Happy building

 

[woody]

now now boys...back on topic....



AL is a good choice for lowers...7075 T6 is what my buggy will have...threaded for heims (yes heims, since I've got 5+ years on my current ones with zero issues, why change...lol)

 

[Krazyfj]

You guys are using aluminum lower links? What about dragging on rocks? or dropping on them?

 

[BellyDoc]

Shocking, isn't it?

It works really well, actually. I've seen it on several buggies, and I've watched it drag on the rocks!

7075 is an aluminum alloy that reacts well to heat treatment and the "T6" designation is precisely that... a heat treatment. I don't know much about the metallurgy, but the result is a springier aluminum that doesn't stay bent when it gets flexed... and it's not that flexy to start with.

Yes, it does cut a bit easier than steel when dragging on the rocks. I saw a few stray aluminum chips on some obstacles after one of the buggies used WOT technique to climb a ledge. However, at 2" of solid material, those links weren't going to loose much structural integrity any time soon.

This build is getting 2.25" solid stock... all the better!

 

[etrnlbzz]

I would imagin you could run some sort of thin walled steel "cap" on the down side of the lower link to protect it, but like belly doc says I'm running 2 1/4 " bar, unless I find myself crawling over a Bridgeport mill I would think that these will last a while.

 

[White YJ]

unless I find myself crawling over a Bridgeport mill I would think that these will last a while.

BRANIK makes and sells some nice AL links. They will make whatever you want.

 

[woody]

You guys are using aluminum lower links? What about dragging on rocks? or dropping on them?

solid 7075-T6...I'll be running 2" lowers and 1-1/2" uppers, and drilling/tapping them for 5/8" bore-3/4" thread QA-1 XMR heim joints

 

[EWheeler]

Stoked on this build, and look forward to seeing the outcome. There's some good advice here by people who have been there and done that, I'll be taking notes for future use. Keep the updates coming

 

[etrnlbzz]

more pics to come soon.

 

[Eskimo]

You guys are using aluminum lower links? What about dragging on rocks? or dropping on them?

Because the AL is a "softer" material than say, DOM, it doesn't slide quite as easily over rocks.. Kinda like how steel skids don't slide as nicely as the cutting board stuff does... but it does work fine.

Dropping onto a rock is kinda funny.. you can feel it "spring" just a little.. it's nice, as it absorbs a little bit of the impact... The drop-off on the Can Opener trail at Harlan is where I really felt it the most.

The comment about dragging over a bridgeport had me

 

[etrnlbzz]

Got some more work done this weekend (4 days off is the Sh&t!, and I was only hung for 2)

The top scary pic is how you work in a one car garage. The only place for stuff to go is up....so the body went up. Yah I know.

The second pic is of the upper frame mount tacked to the 1/4 inch scab plate. The black dote on the center of the joint is where I'm measuring to from the center line of the rear axle.

I'm setting up at ride height, so the third is measuring from the ground to the center of the upper joint. The piece of all thread with the string tied to it is the centerline of the rear axle.

I'm seeing a few conflicts here in regards to exhaust, anybody have any ideas?? I don't really want to run it outside the frame rails but it's starting to go that way.

And finally, what about the rear cross member/shock mount? Necessary....not needed??? I'm kinda thinking I can plasma those rivets and get it out of there seeing as the frame past the link mounts is just holding up the body. I'm going to need some room for the sway bar anyway, and the sway bar tube will likely act as a rear brace.

 

[canadian bum]

Lots of good info in here I will be keeping tabs on the turnout since I will be doing 4 link in the rear and 3 in the front of my 40.

 

[etrnlbzz]

Allright.....so I can't find a machin shop to turn these links!!! anybody know a shop in south OC that can do this work????? The material is easy but the shop that has a long enought lathe bed is not.. I might have to contact branik offroad.

 

[mrqtipp]

I have heard good things about these guys but I havent seen any of their work

Off Road Evolution

good luck

 

[etrnlbzz]

Thanks I'll check them out.

 

[etrnlbzz]

Does anybody have any reviews of the AA front drive shaft?

716369 | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters

The yolk looks friggen tiny. I have to do a little more mock up but looks like my stock shaft may work with a few more inches on it.

I have been told that hte only way to run the 4L60 with the 3 spd tcase is to use this option...

 

[Mace]

Why not a 2 piece front shaft?

 

[etrnlbzz]

Do tell.

 

[Chop Shop]

Do tell.

wont minitruck stuff work fine?

Its cheap. easy and reliable. Some years have mucho clearence at the yokes to tollerate hi angles.

 

[Mace]

Yes, stock 2 piece mini truck rear. It has been discussed in this section many times...