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- #61
Assembled Frankenstein filler
Builds FerrisBueller's 2018 LC Build - "Moby" (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter FerrisBueller
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Looks like good progress!
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- #64
I have some charcoal canister problem-solving to do. Very first task of the day is relocating the charcoal canister. Plan was to mount it in the passenger side bumper wing. While the canister technically fits there without any hoses or mounting brackets on it (oriented with the connections facing forward or backward), there is zero clearance left for any connections. Not to mention, it leaves insufficient body / frame clearance.
It will not fit flipped up on its side.
If I turn the canister so it crosses the frame rail, then there just might barely be enough clearance between it and the subtank to make the connections. There is enough clearance from the frame, too (at least an inch) as long as I can figure out a way to mount it as tightly as possible against the body.
If that doesn't work, then I'll have to consider mounting it in the engine bay like @grinchy did.
It will not fit flipped up on its side.
If I turn the canister so it crosses the frame rail, then there just might barely be enough clearance between it and the subtank to make the connections. There is enough clearance from the frame, too (at least an inch) as long as I can figure out a way to mount it as tightly as possible against the body.
If that doesn't work, then I'll have to consider mounting it in the engine bay like @grinchy did.
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- #65
I'm also going to have to figure out how to mount the spare tire bracket on the lower holes, since the lower set of holes interfere with my E&E bumper mounting bolt.
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- #66
A stock LC bumper would fit the canister fine, flipped on its end so the connections are pointed up (and would probably just mount it to the frame using the threaded holes where the LX's AHC pump would go). But I don't have a stock bumper. Will figure it out, though.
That’s a bummer! Previous one off installs did have the canister outside the rail. Maybe they had a stock bumper and could use all that wasted space inside the plastics.
Can you just cut the bracket into two smaller pieces with a gap for the bolt head? It looks like the flat piece from the tire hanger crossmember would span the gap, bolt on each side and job done?
Can you just cut the bracket into two smaller pieces with a gap for the bolt head? It looks like the flat piece from the tire hanger crossmember would span the gap, bolt on each side and job done?
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- #68
Temporary solution until I figure out what to do with the charcoal canister.
Moby fires up! Going to go fill it up with fuel.
Moby fires up! Going to go fill it up with fuel.
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- #69
Nice - 1 day install!
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- #71
You definitely paved the way!
I think it was about 16 hours of work yesterday. Add on the little bit I tried to preemptively get started with earlier in the week, and I'm probably at 20 hours total so far. A few of those hours yesterday were spent early on pondering and measuring to see if the canister would fit in the wing area. Another hour (at least) was spent trying to get a single bolt installed (for securing the passenger side strap across the subtank, the strap's hole just didn't want to reach course enough to the body mounting point). And then a lot of time spent on fittings that never really seem to be sized consistently and being either way too loose or way too tight for the hose of the same ID.
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- #72
Cardboard mock-up of the charcoal canister. The extra flaps on one end show how much extra space is needed for the connections on that end.
Here are the places it definitely will not fit:
Hood won't close:
@lx200inAR I tried your idea of putting it where the resonator is. It would totally work there, and the side-exit exhaust could turn and immediately end before the tire and work fine, giving lots of room. This is super tempting. There is a problem, though.
The main problem with this approach is that the spare tire support bracket is in the way and would push the charcoal canister down too far. Think hitting your resonator on rocks is bad? Try hitting your canister on rocks.
Still, I'm tempted to try to make it work somehow since all the connections are already back there.
This is how far the tire bracket would push down the canister (I've marked the bracket mounting holes), basically so the frame rail would no longer protect it.
I see two possible places in the engine bay. The first is on its side in front of the power steering reservoir, which would have to be relocated backwards an inch or so (I think that's what @grinchy did). The other is on top of the main fuse box, perpendicular to it. It appears to fully clear the hood when closed.
Here are the places it definitely will not fit:
Hood won't close:
@lx200inAR I tried your idea of putting it where the resonator is. It would totally work there, and the side-exit exhaust could turn and immediately end before the tire and work fine, giving lots of room. This is super tempting. There is a problem, though.
The main problem with this approach is that the spare tire support bracket is in the way and would push the charcoal canister down too far. Think hitting your resonator on rocks is bad? Try hitting your canister on rocks.
Still, I'm tempted to try to make it work somehow since all the connections are already back there.This is how far the tire bracket would push down the canister (I've marked the bracket mounting holes), basically so the frame rail would no longer protect it.
I see two possible places in the engine bay. The first is on its side in front of the power steering reservoir, which would have to be relocated backwards an inch or so (I think that's what @grinchy did). The other is on top of the main fuse box, perpendicular to it. It appears to fully clear the hood when closed.
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- #73
Learned that the spare tire stopper near the axle and the spare tire carrier guide are different part numbers when you have the subtank (since the tire sits lower). Also, there are two additional stoppers that attach the the spare support bracket itself. I think these last two stoppers likely make it so that bending the bar right behind the bumper is no longer necessary.
EDIT: The two stoppers do nothing, and are actually only used for LX 20" rims so that the larger diameter rim only contacts the rubber stopper instead of metal. You still have to either bend the bar (which I did not do), or deform the carrier guide (which I did do).
EDIT: The two stoppers do nothing, and are actually only used for LX 20" rims so that the larger diameter rim only contacts the rubber stopper instead of metal. You still have to either bend the bar (which I did not do), or deform the carrier guide (which I did do).
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I have fond memories of doing the same thing. if you do relo to the engine bay, reuse the existing hardline for canister fume burn off as the vent in, and then the only hoses needed are in the engine bay (much shorter).Cardboard mock-up of the charcoal canister. The extra flaps on one end show how much extra space is needed for the connections on that end.
Here are the places it definitely will not fit:
Hood won't close:
View attachment 3335161
View attachment 3335162
View attachment 3335163
@lx200inAR I tried your idea of putting it where the resonator is. It would totally work there, and the side-exit exhaust could turn and immediately end before the tire and work fine, giving lots of room. This is super tempting. There is a problem, though.
View attachment 3335176
The main problem with this approach is that the spare tire support bracket is in the way and would push the charcoal canister down too far. Think hitting your resonator on rocks is bad? Try hitting your canister on rocks.
This is how far the tire bracket would push down the canister (I've marked the bracket mounting holes), basically so the frame rail would no longer protect it.
View attachment 3335169
I see two possible places in the engine bay. The first is on its side in front of the power steering reservoir, which would have to be relocated backwards an inch or so (I think that's what @grinchy did). The other is on top of the main fuse box, perpendicular to it. It appears to fully clear the hood when closed.
View attachment 3335177
View attachment 3335180
View attachment 3335182
What about outside the rail behind the rear passenger tire (where AHC pump is on an LX), with a custom skid if it ends up partially below the rail?
Yes, I had to cut quite a lot off the top of the part 51923A to get it to fit under the sub tank. The part is not structural (it's only a tube for the lowering rod to go thru). Easy work with an angle grinder.
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- #76
That hardline is pretty small diameter compared to the vent line, do you think the reduced diameter on the vent line might cause a problem -> CEL? I really don't want to run the canister's wires up there either, but if I have to then I have to. I guess all the canisters wires probably already live up in the engine bay somewhere already (at some computer module). Maybe I should look up where they originate from.
I believe that putting it outside the rail behind the passenger tire would work perfect for someone with a stock bumper. My E&E bumper removes just enough clearance that it became impossible. That was my original plan, and thought it would fit even with the new bumper, but it barely does not. It's mostly a problem of the connectors being too long, not enough clearance. If I can find another Toyota model with a smaller charcoal canister with the same connectors, then I would drill & tap the E&E bumper bottom panel and mount it in that wing for sure.
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- #77
I guess using the smaller diameter for the vapor vent line shouldn't be a concern, since the subtank connections you're using for it already reduce that diameter down.
I was worried about keeping all the diameters the same, but I actually think the smaller hardline is better, I would have used it after I thought it thru but getting it connected meant I’d have to disconnect a bunch of things I’d just put on, and I already had a hose run to the engine bay. So lazy won.
The canister pump draws it down to a light vacuum, so smaller diameter hardline will take less time to evacuate and should get a faster self test. All guessing though.
Since your venting/Evaporation loop is different than mine hard to say definitively, but pretty sure the hardline up to the crankcase would serve fine.
The canister pump draws it down to a light vacuum, so smaller diameter hardline will take less time to evacuate and should get a faster self test. All guessing though.
Since your venting/Evaporation loop is different than mine hard to say definitively, but pretty sure the hardline up to the crankcase would serve fine.
I wouldn't recommend solid strand ethernet cable, get stranded if you must use it. I'd suggest a stranded 8 conductor, like this:
