Builds FerrisBueller's 2018 LC Build - "Moby"

[FerrisBueller]

Awesome! Thanks for the sanity check. I’m building my cart as well, and the senders are the issue. I can’t fathom why the GCC part numbers wouldn’t work, but Mr. T is full of surprises. It’s only a couple hundred dollars if we are wrong!

The LC's terrible range is my only major gripe with the platform (for my use case). A remedy for it is well worth an extra $300 spent on trial-and-error parts! I love the promised conveniences of the factory subtank over the LRA, like a single fill tube and automatic transfer of fuel to the main tank. And it's actually a LOT cheaper than the LRA. Seems like a no-brainer as long as I can somehow find the $20 subtank suction tube in stock somewhere!

 

[grinchy]

Which part is the fuel suction tube? The addition to the fuel pump stack for the Venturi or the metal gooseneck in the sub tank to export fuel out of sub?

 

[FerrisBueller]

Which part is the fuel suction tube? The addition to the fuel pump stack for the Venturi or the metal gooseneck in the sub tank to export fuel out of sub?

It's the metal gooseneck that gets fuel out of the subtank. Part number 7701760550

 

[grinchy]

That’s a weird OOS. I hope the pipeline gets filled soon.

It’s a part that could be fabbed, but not at the cost the OEM part is.

 

[FerrisBueller]

It turns out the diesel version has a similar part, but with two extra ports that do nothing and can be tied off for our application. Notice how the two extra ports just get connected to each other with a hose internally. I'm going to just remove that hose and use it to tie the two ports together externally. And since it's in stock and I'm going to buy right now, I went ahead and added the older subtank sender that's in stock to my cart as well. So that's the only two parts I was missing that should work out now.

The correct part 7701760550

The diesel part 7701760560

The replacement part numbers were
out of stock --> in stock
7701760550 --> 7701760560
8332069545 --> 8332069535

The numbers are so close, maybe they're just minor revisions of each other and otherwise compatible.

 

[grinchy]

That looks doable. I doubt the sender version is very relevant.

Yellow pipe FTW!

 

[empty80]

I added the OOS parts to my Part Souq wishlist. I checked my wishlist yesterday, I kid you not, one of 7701760550 was available… the day after I bought most of the parts. It will be here before everything else!

The punchline is, build a wishlist and check it daily for the missing bits.

 

[FerrisBueller]

I added the OOS parts to my Part Souq wishlist. I checked my wishlist yesterday, I kid you not, one of 7701760550 was available… the day after I bought most of the parts. It will be here before everything else!

The punchline is, build a wishlist and check it daily for the missing bits.

That's interesting. I already had a wishlist set up with that part, and it is supposed to email me when there is stock. They did not send me an email. Maybe because there was too little stock available when they did get it in?

 

[empty80]

That's interesting. I already had a wishlist set up with that part, and it is supposed to email me when there is stock. They did not send me an email. Maybe because there was too little stock available when they did get it in?

I have never received a in stock wishlist notification from their system. I didn’t realize it either until I started building this part list, and found my part list for KDSS delete in stock.

 

[grinchy]

You could also leave the hose in place and plug/cap the external ends on the diesel siphon

 

[FerrisBueller]

Really fantastic & stout rear bumper from E&E Off-Road (@turbo8). Test fit the pieces together, and it's clear these are made with extreme precision.

Determined which components were outward-facing and needed to be painted, then cleaned the aluminum and painted. Going to let dry for a couple days, then will install on Saturday.

SEM paint is self-etching / priming on aluminum.

 

[FerrisBueller]

I tried to estimate the angle that these will fit relative to the stock bumper angle, and I think it's roughly the same relative angle, just cut higher (see red line I drew on the photo). That's exactly what I was hoping for: more clearance, but without the extreme flat / horizontal appearance of other bumpers. Also much less weight (about 60lbs) compared to other full bumper replacements. My angle estimate might be a little off, of course.

 

[AnyMal]

Not sure why I wasn’t in here before but def watching this now.

 

[FerrisBueller]

Almost done with first side, need to trim just a little more bumper first. Taking it nice and slow on this side since this is a prototype and am having to adjust a bit here and there. Then will be able to go a little faster on the other side. But overall very happy and no real complaints!

 

[turbo8]

Looks like you did a much better cut than me. Looking good!

 

[Tex68w]

Almost done with first side, need to trim just a little more bumper first. Taking it nice and slow on this side since this is a prototype and am having to adjust a bit here and there. Then will be able to go a little faster on the other side. But overall very happy and no real complaints!

View attachment 3321872
View attachment 3321873

Looking good, I can't wait to see the finished product. You should rattle can the resonator while you're down there too. Lastly, how are you liking those Baja Boss A/T's?

 

[FerrisBueller]

Just going to cover the basics of the E&E Off-Road rear bumper install here, not every little step. Feel free to ask any questions, the install was good.

Remove the black wing underside covers. Once you get the main bolts out, you'll be able to wrangle it around to get access to the two hidden bolts that secure it to the body panel.

Remove the stock recover points. I was surprised to find out that the frame coating / paint is applied after the recovery points are installed. It's bare metal underneath, and it was starting to rust. I cleaned it up and sprayed some Rustoleum.

Taped and measured some reference points where I would make my first conservative cut on the bumper skin. The point here is to get enough bumper removed to allow the new bumper to be temporarily installed, so that the full gap required can then be measured, marked, and cut. I used a laser level to mark the line, then I traced it with pencil.

Then start cutting! I was happy that all my old scrapes were now cut off.

 

[FerrisBueller]

Then install the bumper for the side that was just cut. This prototype had a clearance issue with the body mount bolt that @turbo8 had already warned me about. I could either cut the body mount bolt shorter (they're very long) or cut a hole for clearance in the new bumper panel (it happens to line up perfectly with the thin, recessed section of the panel). I chose to cut a 1.25" hole in the panel. Aluminum is super easy to work with! I would guess that turbo8 will fix this in future versions of the bumper. I certainly wouldn't let it keep you from getting the bumper, it's worth it.

Oh yeah, if you don't have one of these Harbor Freight small transmission jacks, you should get one. It made hoisting up the bumper to install extremely easy. I wish I had always owned one of these, I would have used it constantly over the years.

When installing the driver side wing, if you want to be able to access the bolts that end up being behind the resonator, then you just need to unhook the resonator from the two rubber supports in front and behind it (you don't need to outright remove the resonator).

Bumper wing installed, mark the correct gap where the bumper needs to have its final cut. Since you have the full wing installed, this is also the right time to mark where you need to drill the frame on the bumper arm that reaches over toward the hitch receiver. Then remove the bumper wing, cut the bumper skin at the new mark you made, and drill the frame where you marked it.

Then install it again, but now for the final time. This side's bumper wing is now done. Super simple. Then do the same for the passenger side and you're done!

 

[FerrisBueller]

Before and after shots

 

[FerrisBueller]

I still need to trim the mudflaps. Also, the edge of the new bumper panel that is next to the wheel well has M6-threaded holes next to the mud flap. They are intended for a gap filler for people running tires smaller than 37" (I'm at 33"), but I'm planning to secure the remaining portion of the mudflap (after trimming) to it.