Featured 100 - spressomon

[spressomon]

Just some quick thoughts...

Much of the difference in the WMS width may be due to the hub offset. If you could find a way to fit front 100 series FF hubs onto a 105 axle, the width would probably be much closer to the 68.x" you need. The problem there lies in that the 100 uses a larger inner wheel bearing to carry that offset... I believe it's too big for the 105 spindle. The bearing nut on the rear FF axles is also much larger than the front. Possible scenario if the 105 shafts are long enough and the 100 housing not too wide... machine up a couple 100 series style spindles that will bolt on to your existing rear axle. Front 100 hubs, adapt brakes... just brain storming....

This is a mini truck IFS vs solid axle hub. I'm speculating the 100 IFS vs 105 rear hub would be a similar picture.....

Interesting idea! I'll have to do some measuring to see if this would be viable. Good thoughts...keep them coming please!

 

[100 TD]

...... If you ever have the misfortune of having to service the 100 Series rear axle you'll understand.............

I understand, and I don't want to be in the same situation as you, that is why I'm trying to find the root cause, because I don't want to go down your path (unless it was cheap, yes it is a good way to go) if there is another solution, especially if it only relates to seals etc., and I can stop the damage before it occurs.

It needs to be serviceable and maintainable. If it were more easily serviceable I'd run the seal issue down.

Yes there are a lot of things that are NOT serviceable and maintainable especially on the track, or at home without Toyoyta's endless list of SST's and electronic diagnostic gizmos.........

 

[spressomon]

I understand, and I don't want to be in the same situation as you, that is why I'm trying to find the root cause, because I don't want to go down your path (unless it was cheap, yes it is a good way to go) if there is another solution, especially if it only relates to seals etc., and I can stop the damage before it occurs.


Yes there are a lot of things that are NOT serviceable and maintainable especially on the track, or at home without Toyoyta's endless list of SST's and electronic diagnostic gizmos.........

FWIW the failed inner seal had no visual defect or wear; however diff oil was puking past the axle seal. I've experienced failed/worn seals on trucks I've owned many moons ago and its difficult most times to see why they failed. The axle seal is IMO (I'm not an engineer...just looking at it from a mechanic's perspective) very small OD and very large ID not providing much flex and/or seal surface area from the minimalistic amount of rubber.

Per Ben at Slee's the outer seal is more of a "dust shield" than a true oil seal. I don't know if water and grit migrated in from the outside?

 

[100 TD]

FWIW the failed inner seal had no visual defect or wear; however diff oil was puking past the axle seal.

The only way diff oil can puke past the seal AFAIK says there must be pressure pushing the oil past the seal, it would not normally get past it as it just sloshes around in the axle housing. Therefore, I expect the problem to be a faulty diff breather, creating pressure in the diff/axle housing, and possibly a combination of a small leak from the ARB centre. However, even if the ARB is not leaking at all, if the diff breather is extended in a small diameter hose, (1/4" or less) oil can lay in the hose and coagulate with dust and moisture and close off enough to pressurize the housing.
It will be 100 times worse for those who extend their breathers and still use the OEM fitted one way valves.

Per Ben at Slee's the outer seal is more of a "dust shield" than a true oil seal. I don't know if water and grit migrated in from the outside?

I don't know about the outer seal being just a dust seal, OEM spec say fording at 700mm is OK, (I don't know how they can say that with OEM breather valves fitted?) but I expect some pressure differential is required to bypass the seal.
When is this happening? If full flow modified breathers to the diff are fitted which allow free flow of air to the atmosphere, I can't see how a metre of water over the axle exerting 1.4 psi on the seal could get water past it.

There is a problem if water is getting in, there is a problem if diff oil is getting in, how and why is this happening?
I, and I assume many others would really like to find out why?
Dan, I really do understand your quest for a full floater, but any info you can give the rest of us would be a bonus to fixing the inevitable problems some of us may experience.

 

[spressomon]

No ARB in the rear...OEM e-locker. And that has its own breather that ties in to the diff breather that runs to a fuel filter mounted on the firewall. Hundreds of guys run this set-up without issue. As I mentioned I blew through the breather hose from where it enters the diff without restriction...easy flow. Then checked the breather fitting on the diff to make sure it was not restricted...and it wasn't restricted. Anything is possible as there is a cause...I just haven't found it.

Although we drove through a week of rainy weather last year apart of an off-road explore here in Nevada I didn't get in diff deep water between the two seal replacements. Fluid can only migrate to the diff/seal one of several ways: Pinion seal, outer axle seals, locker vent or diff vent.

Before that just as I got to Albuquerque for a multi-week trip 13-months ago the pinion bearing went. Apart of the tear down they (American Toyota) discovered the two worn axle bearings. Then 6-months later in September 2009 I discovered the passenger side rear covered in diff lube. Reno Toyota rebuilt it with 100% new parts from the outside in; I did the axle removal and reinsertion on this one.

Then, right before our big Utah trip last month, I noticed diff lube all over the driver's side rear brake assembly. We had made a shake-down trip to Death Valley a few weeks prior and it was fine. Reno Toyota rebuilt the DS, again with 100% new parts (all except the axle and brake parts) outside in.

After so many water crossings from our recent Utah trip I need to get the diff lube drained to see what it looks like...that's going to get done today.

 

[Skidoo]

To those on this thread looking to improve stock axle reliability. My theory is that the outer axle seals are weak link. They do not have much retension force, inners seem robust. In rebuilding my rear axle could not get outer seal to stay in seat through even reasembly. Ended up glueing it in.
To continue my theory, once water or dirt gets in to bearing the inner seal will be taken out by dirt or bearing debris in quick order.
Maybe we need a retainer plate design or feedback on best glue to use.
Thoughts?

 

[spressomon]

To those on this thread looking to improve stock axle reliability. My theory is that the outer axle seals are weak link. They do not have much retension force, inners seem robust. In rebuilding my rear axle could not get outer seal to stay in seat through even reasembly. Ended up glueing it in.
To continue my theory, once water or dirt gets in to bearing the inner seal will be taken out by dirt or bearing debris in quick order.
Maybe we need a retainer plate design or feedback on best glue to use.
Thoughts?

I suspect the outer "dust shield/seal", as Ben at Slee calls it, might be the culprit too. So you bought/made the SSTs for presswork?

 

[Skidoo]

Not sure I am using same terms, so to get us all on same page, posting part diag.
What I am calling inner seal is 42311V in diag (part # 90310-58002). Seal has outer metal shell that presses into axle housing. This fit is tight and seems robust, keeps diff oil from getting to rear bearing 42312A which comes pre-greased.
The outer seal 42311E (part # 90313-62001). This seal has an internal metal shell, but all surfaces are rubber, which you would expect for inside which seals on spinning axle, but outside is also rubber and seats into bearing case 42421D , so cannot have tight tolerence like a metal case seal. This seating into bearing case is where mine was unseating when tightening bearing case bolts.
This outer seal keeps water and dirt out of bearing area and grease in. For diff oil to be leaking at wheel, or water in diff, both seals have failed.
To be complete there is the deflector 42441A which looks like a dust shield, but its purpose is more to deflect leaking oil from parking brake drum.

No, I do not have the SST's to get to outer seal, but I did make at least 6 trips to local axle guy, at first to reseat seal and then glue it. And yes, Spresso you know the guy . Just had him doing press work for me. I don't think he knows 100's that well, but I studied it apart and assembled, don't think he did anything wrong, that seal design is the weak link IMHO.

 

[spressomon]

No pics to share at this time but after spooling on this project for over 2-years I've finally have gotten the fab work done on a belt driven OBA compressor set-up on my '99. I didn't have all the parts to complete the air line portion but everything, including the Sanden 508 air compressor (thanks Rusty for running that down for me!), the pulley/belt and mounting bracket assembly, for last week's Explore Nevada off-road trip but it just spun along without issue in non-pressurized mode.

Mr. UPS delivered a nice little package of all the remaining parts and pieces to the house while I was away. Just pressurized the system and all works as expected. I need to get some miles and usage on it to be sure its all going to be reliable as I expect. I'll complete the air lines and quick connects install this week to get it trail ready.

As you can imagine it wasn't cheap. But the round trips to drop-off/pick-up my PowerTank along with the $20+ fill charge each time + running out of CO2 on the trail kicked my butt into gear to get this darn project checked off "the list".

A belt driven OBA can be configured for the 2UZFE!

 

[02 Beast]

Very cool, would like to see pics when you are finished.

 

[spressomon]

Cleaning up a few little things that have been bugging me for a while. I've been using a small Radio Shack speaker that I had velcro'd to the center console under the DS arm rest. It worked OK but I wanted the speaker mounted, ideally, in the headliner just above my noggin .

Found a little 5w 8ohm 3.5" speaker on eBay for $2.60. There is just enough clearance in the headliner just behind the DS visor to install. I couldn't find a speaker grill of any sort that was low profile so I made a template for drilling the headliner so that the sound could more easily pass through. After I drilled the holes I used a clean hot soldering tip to clean up each hole...

I, like always it seems, just wanted to be done with the project so I didn't take the time to go down to the hobby store and get tan plastic paint to camo the push style retainers holding the speaker in place...so that will bug me, now, until I paint them to match

Then I relocated the faceplate for my Icom 208H to the center console in the headliner just behind the map lights.

 

[spressomon]

Here's a shot of the Sanden OBA...just enough space for one more engine bay accessory

 

[OGBeno]

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Dan - What do you use the little speaker for? Entertainment? Phone? CB / Shortwave? As for your engine compartment, WOW, that is full! I may have to save that photo to give me ideas of what I can cram in there!

Jonathan

 

[rohitash]

What! You sacrificed your engine cover for the Sanden OBA! Or did you do that even earlier for something even more trivial !

That is indeed a great piece of engineering! How much airflow do you get approx? What exactly did you do to drive the compressor?

Cheers

 

[spressomon]

Dan - What do you use the little speaker for? Entertainment? Phone? CB / Shortwave? As for your engine compartment, WOW, that is full! I may have to save that photo to give me ideas of what I can cram in there!

Jonathan

HAM: 2m

 

[spressomon]

What! You sacrificed your engine cover for the Sanden OBA! Or did you do that even earlier for something even more trivial !

That is indeed a great piece of engineering! How much airflow do you get approx? What exactly did you do to drive the compressor?

Cheers

Belt driven off the cam. 8.4cfm at 1,000rpm

 

[spressomon]

What! You sacrificed your engine cover for the Sanden OBA! Or did you do that even earlier for something even more trivial !

That is indeed a great piece of engineering! How much airflow do you get approx? What exactly did you do to drive the compressor?

Cheers

That POS? All it does is increase the engine temp...good in the cold months I suppose. And just gets in the way...sorta like hub caps

 

[1loudLX]

That POS? All it does is increase the engine temp...good in the cold months I suppose. And just gets in the way...sorta like hub caps

GJ, even though I saw this all last week. So, I'll stop by next month, you can do the headliner speaker for me? KTHX!


You're gonna need a team of people to swap everything to your new truck...whenever that comes.

 

[spressomon]

GJ, even though I saw this all last week. So, I'll stop by next month, you can do the headliner speaker for me? KTHX!


You're gonna need a team of people to swap everything to your new truck...whenever that comes.

Yeah, sure... whatever. I saved the template...its an easy install. Get the speaker here before you get here: Workman SA-350 3.5-Inch Square Internal CB Speaker NEW - eBay (item 180434555917 end time Aug-15-10 19:40:51 PDT)

It obviously isn't hifi but...