Featured 100: paflytyer (1 Viewer)

[Ali M]

lots of respect to you @paflytyer

I just posted a video of your truck here asking the experts here about how generally capable is a 100 because I saw how you conquered these hills and was wondering if you had any lockers on it. It turns out your rig is not an average 100. Again, lots of respect from someone who dd '16 LC takes his fzj80 for small adventures when I can and humbly learning everyday from you guys.

 

[paflytyer]

lots of respect to you @paflytyer

I just posted a video of your truck here asking the experts here about how generally capable is a 100 because I saw how you conquered these hills and was wondering if you had any lockers on it. It turns out your rig is not an average 100. Again, lots of respect from someone who dd '16 LC takes his fzj80 for small adventures when I can and humbly learning everyday from you guys.

Thanks @Ali M!

I have been driving a 2016 Land Cruiser for the last few days and I can say that it is light years ahead of my 100. I wish I could keep it. I'm jealous of your DD.

 

[Patineto]

PS: If you ever need a second opinion in your "Wheelchair" needs I have a master Neurosurgeon/nerve reconnector that is keeping me walking and is not to far in SLC..

Note: Your truck Refreshing posting, the whole thing is based on logic and real needs not "Fashion" or "Uniform"

 

[paflytyer]

I haven't updated much on here in a while. I haven't even been on MUD very often. A few setbacks here and there with my injury have kept me off the trails. I've lived vicariously through @bluecruiser and @AimCOtaco while they were on amazing trips that I should have been with them for.

The ARB lockers and @just differentials Nitro gears went into my 100 in the Spring of last year. They've been flawless. Regearing actually gave me 2MPG's back. That's no joke. The tall 35's were really making the truck work hard to maintain speed over the hills here in Colorado. The ARB lockers do everything they're supposed to do and having ATRAC and f/r lockers makes me work a lot less over obstacles. I still believe you'll be a better driver overall if you learn how to clear obstacles with good tire placement and good spotters first. (every 100 should have a front locker though)

If you've ever wondered how much force is involved in when a front wheel grabs a rock, take a look at this.....My last diff failure actually twisted the splines on the pinion gear! That takes an incredible amount of force to do.

The TJM locker held up (some cosmetic scratches from teeth bits) but the pinion and ring gear didn't. I'm guessing that the ring gear broke first and the broken teeth on that caused the pinion gear to lose teeth as well. This isn't really supposed to happen with a locker in the front. I was at a funny angle and stuck. Could have been too much skinny pedal and not enough shims during the initial locker setup. These were also stock Toyota gears too.

Either way..... all the TJM stuff was removed and replaced with ARB lockers/compressors and NITRO 4.88 gears. Joe Risavi at Slee performed the work and as expected, everything works great. It's been almost 1 year since the install and I've used both lockers plenty of times and I'm 100% confident that this is the best setup possible for me. Since everything was torn down in the front anyway, we gave the front a refresh with all new CVs too. Everything up front (diff, steering rack, tie rods, cv's bushings, seals, etc.) has been replaced in the last 18 months. It's good to have confidence in your equipment when you turn off the pavement and start making dust.

I know I said I was finished building this thing last year..... but....



I did install a Tembo Tusk fridge slide which makes getting in and out of the ARB fridge way easier. I don't really have the ability to hop my butt up on the tailgate and twist my body to access the fridge anymore. Now, I just stand at the tailgate and slide it towards me. I also took care of all my lighting and switch needs. Rhino Rack has brackets for installing light bars to the front of their racks that are super convenient. It was a breeze. The 40" Rigid dual LED bar and driving cubes now have proper switches cleanly mounted in the cab. The TJM locker/compressor switches were replaced with an 80 series locker dial for a clear look too.


I've reached a point with this truck where I feel everything is right. After 7 years, I'm pretty much finished building it. Although I'm not a fan of water crossings, I did get to seriously test the diff breathers and snorkel this summer. A trip with Rhino Rack AU led us to a water crossing that was way deeper than I was comfortable with. Seeing water hit my windshield wasn't the most comforting thing I've ever seen from the driver's seat. Everything worked as it should though. No pics of my crossing, but @AimCOtaco clearly took a cleaner line through the water than I did. He only went hood deep!

Overall, this is still the best vehicle I've ever owned. It continues to amaze me.

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I hope to see all of you at HIH7!
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[tabraha]

Stan that last pic may be the best pic I've ever seen of a 100. I bought a 200 last night and parked it beside my 100 in the drive. I stood back, looked at the 2 and man a beefy 100 sure does look as good as it performs. I should sell the bronze 100 by all rational thinking but I just don't see it happening honestly. The 200 has a lot to live up to just like the 100 did when it showed up on the scene.

 

[Nottajeep]

What factors drove you to ARB lockers compared to the TJM replacment, guessing there was not a warranty period left? Did you feel the ARB would have held up better from the start?

 

[willbt]

@paflytyer Wow Stan, thats quite the crossing in that last post! Which trail is this?

 

[OptimusPrime]

@paflytyer Cc: @tabraha That last picture above is now my desktop background . I've admired your rig in particular since joining the forum!

@paflytyer My 215k mi 99 100 is currently in the shop for axles and many are recommending that I take the opportunity to get that TJM front locker installed because its on sale right now on eBay... I don't think I'd even run an airline/wires to it right now, but rather just use it as front end/diff insurance. I don't wheel hard; I more-so just use my rig for what you might call dirt road exploration. It would be my first mechanical mod. What are your thoughts? Guesses on cost of other parts I'd need to make it functional + installation cost? Whats the argument against not doing it?

 

[SmoothLC]

Good question - I was wondering after reading the latest update, what caused you to move to the ARB @paflytyer?

 

[aaronrules]

"@paflytyer Cc: @tabraha That last picture above is now my desktop background . I've admired your rig in particular since joining the forum!"

+1

In fact this is the second picture of @paflytyer 's rig that has been my desktop background!

 

[87warrior]

Your 100 is one of my favorites. Bravo! The build has been great to follow as well, I read it in its entirety for the second time today. Though I don't recall reading how you have your ham radio setup installed. If you have any details about that, I'd love to learn them.

The above picture of your Cruiser on Imogene Pass is phenomenal. I hope to see you out in Colorado sometime, I am out there plenty.

 

[paflytyer]

What factors drove you to ARB lockers compared to the TJM replacment, guessing there was not a warranty period left? Did you feel the ARB would have held up better from the start?

Good question - I was wondering after reading the latest update, what caused you to move to the ARB @paflytyer?

I went ARB because of their strong presence and support in the USA. Back in 2013 when I did the TJM locker, TJMUSA was in full swing and I could call and talk to the guy that I knew there. Since then, they've been taken over by Summit and from what I hear, are going to be taken over again.

I have a friend at ARB and they are very strong here in the USA and if I have a problem, or need something, I can call and talk to my buddy in Seattle and get parts, tech info and assistance. There's very little chance of them leaving the US market. The same cannot be said for TJM.

The TJM locker worked fine and I really like the design, but having after-purchase support is important to me. Personally knowing some of the guys at ARB obviously helps and ultimately swayed me in that direction.

@OptimusPrime The low cost of the TJM on Ebay is pretty cheap insurance for the front of your 100. You don't need to wheel very hard to become the next front diff casualty. The major cost is in the installation and setup. With the locker being so inexpensive, I think it's worth the few hundred dollars more to just buy the small compressor and run the lines to make it functional. You could also remove the front diff housing yourself and bring it to someone to do the locker install, then reinstall the complete third member (with new locker) and run all the air lines and electrical work yourself. That's what I did for my first locker. It's still a pretty big job because you're tearing the front apart to get the housing out, but I saved a lot of money doing it that way. The removal/replacement of the diff isn't terribly technical, it's just a lot of stuff to take apart to get to it and put it back together. It's also really really hard to lay on a garage floor and lift a 100 pound diff into place and thread the bolts by yourself. Almost impossible. I nearly dropped it on my face. There's no way I could (or would) do that entire job alone again.

If you simply cannot afford the cost, I would practice making your truck 2wd at least once before setting off far from home. It's pretty easy to do and once you do it once, you can complete the whole thing by yourself in 30-45 minutes. Carrying the necessary tools is super important. I have a broken diff bag in my truck at all times. I've used it five times. Twice on my truck and three times on someone else's.

 

[abuck99]

Carrying the necessary tools is super important. I have a broken diff bag in my truck at all times. I've used it five times. Twice on my truck and three times on someone else's.

What's in the bag?


Front locker for strength:

I'm thinking about the discussion of a front locker upgrade as a reasoning for improving diff strength. Relative to 2000 and newer 4 pin diff.

Isnt the OEM carrier/ring gear the weakest link? Most of the failures are broken teeth, so on the later 4 pinion diff, how would the locker by itself mechanically strengthen the diff?

Obviously using the locker will allow for slow operation to clear obsticals vs wheel spin or using faster momentum, but what am I missing where the locker adds strength to the diff system?

 

[paflytyer]

What's in the bag?


Front locker for strength:

I'm thinking about the discussion of a front locker upgrade as a reasoning for improving diff strength. Relative to 2000 and newer 4 pin diff.

Isnt the OEM carrier/ring gear the weakest link? Most of the failures are broken teeth, so on the later 4 pinion diff, how would the locker by itself mechanically strengthen the diff?

Obviously using the locker will allow for slow operation to clear obsticals vs wheel spin or using faster momentum, but what am I missing where the locker adds strength to the diff system?

In the bag...
14mm socket (for the flange nuts)
14mm gear wrench (for the driveshaft)
quality snap ring pliers
brass punch/par
2 strong plastic bags labeled right/left for all of the cone washers, snap ring and nuts)
gloves
BFH
Pliers
Duct tape

The ARB/TJM/Eaton carrier is much stronger and more rigid than the OEM carrier. That prevents the carrier from flexing under strong loads (front wheel getting in the air because of the IFS and touching back down while power is being applied).

The pinion gear pulls away from the ring gear just enough to jump teeth causing them to bind and break. Obviously proper setup has something to do with it too. As parts wear over time, tolerances change just a hair. For the most part and as more and more folks are using their 100s on the trail, the 4-pinion style diffs are breaking as much as the 2-pinion style, they're just breaking at a different spot. The 2-pinion style usually breaks at the spider gears causing those bits to get caught elsewhere and take out ring gear/pinion gear teeth as collateral damage. The 4-pinion style usually breaks when the carrier deflects and the pinion gear jumps the ring gear sending big chucks of teeth into the gears causing collateral damage. My first break was ring gear. Spider gears were intact. We've seen some break without a lot of force and others take a beating and pounding before breaking. The shock load has to go somewhere. The fact that we see so few u-joints or cv's breaking is pretty impressive with the amount of time a 100 has a front wheel off the ground, although I'd rather have the u-joint be the weakest link.

 

[abuck99]

^ thanks for sharing what's in the bag- well thought out to keep track of DS-PS hardware, plus a punch/drift and snap ring pliers are going into my trail kit.

Appreciate the added detail & knowledge of the various diff failure points. (Looks like I'll be squirreling away some funds for a front diff rebuild, sounds like an inevitability. )

 

[geanes]

@paflytyer ... I just got my 98 LX this past March. Planning on going up and doing several of the San Juan passes (Ophir, California, Hurricane, Cinnamon, Corkscrew, Picayune, Imogene). After reading all this about front diffs breaking (in this thread and others), I'm getting a little terrified to go do these with the 2 pinion front diff on my LX. I don't have the budget to get a locker installed at this time as it looks like this is going to be over $1k. Guess I better learn how to setup the part time 2wd. For all the respect people have for LCs, it's frankly surprising that the front diff is so weak that they routinely break under load. I don't rock crawl and won't....only overland type driving.

 

[abuck99]

@paflytyer ... I just got my 98 LX this past March. Planning on going up and doing several of the San Juan passes (Ophir, California, Hurricane, Cinnamon, Corkscrew, Picayune, Imogene). After reading all this about front diffs breaking (in this thread and others), I'm getting a little terrified to go do these with the 2 pinion front diff on my LX. I don't have the budget to get a locker installed at this time as it looks like this is going to be over $1k. Guess I better learn how to setup the part time 2wd. For all the respect people have for LCs, it's frankly surprising that the front diff is so weak that they routinely break under load. I don't rock crawl and won't....only overland type driving.

....Or do your best to drive with a soft right foot, braking with left foot and not spin the wheels.

 

[geanes]

....Or do your best to drive with a soft right foot, braking with left foot and not spin the wheels.

Yeah, I know. I'm pretty good with throttle control (I left foot brake and have since I was younger and know how to heel-toe and rev match from my earlier racing days) and have no desire to rockcrawl or go out "muddin" like so many big ol pick ups like to do here in Central TX. I guess all these posts about diffs has gotten me paranoid. Until reading up on that, I honestly didn't give it a thought.

 

[paflytyer]

Yeah, I know. I'm pretty good with throttle control (I left foot brake and have since I was younger and know how to heel-toe and rev match from my earlier racing days) and have no desire to rockcrawl or go out "muddin" like so many big ol pick ups like to do here in Central TX. I guess all these posts about diffs has gotten me paranoid. Until reading up on that, I honestly didn't give it a thought.

I wouldn't worry about it to the point that you don't get out with your 100. There are 100s that have been wheeled for years and never had a front diff failure. Bouncing is your enemy. If the front starts hopping trying to climb out of, or over something, ease off the throttle.

Learning how to get yourself into 2wd is important regardless of the model year 100 you own.

Enjoy it.

 

[aaronrules]

BTW for @paflytyer and everyone else...I am calling dibs whenever Stan wants to sell this awesome rig! Literally everything I would do to build mine up is right here in this thread.

So Stan, if you ever want to get into a stock 06' LX470 because of reasons I have no idea why, we can make a deal
Or I will just straight up take yours off your hands whenever you want to!