Awesome thread and awesome cruiser!
Featured 100: paflytyer
- Thread starter paflytyer
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- #82
OutdoorX4 Magazine
Issue 4 Cover August 2014
Editorial and more photos...
http://issue4.outdoorx4.com/publication/?i=216246&ver=html5&p=20
Issue 4 Cover August 2014
Editorial and more photos...
http://issue4.outdoorx4.com/publication/?i=216246&ver=html5&p=20
- Thread starter
- #83
You can see in some of those photos above that the synthetic winch line and hook were pulled from the front and connected to a Jonesy's URB. It left the hook exposed underneath the bumper and I was worried I'd catch it on something or I would be in a position where I needed the winch line, but couldn't reach it because it was blocked by rocks or buried.
A Factor 55 FlatLink made it much easier to access and keeps the winch line safe. Because the ARB bumpers don't have built in recovery points, having the flatlink helps and leaves the URB's open for whatever I may need.
A Factor 55 FlatLink made it much easier to access and keeps the winch line safe. Because the ARB bumpers don't have built in recovery points, having the flatlink helps and leaves the URB's open for whatever I may need.
I was actually told by icon yesterday that MOST of the 4Runner suspension parts work with the 100 series.. Guess that's good news.
Sorry for the confusion but none of the 4Runner/FJ suspension crosses over to the any of the domestic Land Cruiser platforms (80/100/200).
Coincidentally the lower links (only) on the land cruiser 80/100/200 are very close in length to the 4Runner/FJ (about 3/8" longer). The 200 series and 100 series also have the same diameter bolt and the additional length needed is well within the adjustment range of our rod end so they do bolt in and people have used them. In house we have installed them on a 200 only.
I can't tell from the angle, but did you do anything about the recessed fairlead and sharp bumper edges? I'm trying to decide how I'm going to tackle this issue. ARB apparently makes an adapter, but I don't like it. Some people have stacked hawse fairleads, and I like that about as much. I'm thinking a 1.5" Factor 55 hawse and perhaps some washers....a machined aluminum spacer would be perfect, but I don't see a vendor for one of those in the U.S.
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- #86
^^ Good eye.... ARB is way behind on this. I stacked 2 hawse fairleads in order to make it fit. (That was actually Joe's idea (Slee Offroad))
It's still slightly recessed, but not enough to worry about the line running along the edge.
I'd have to make an extreme side pull for it to even be close and I don't plan on doing that.
It's still slightly recessed, but not enough to worry about the line running along the edge.
I'd have to make an extreme side pull for it to even be close and I don't plan on doing that.
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I've had these rear links previously on my FJC. The HDPE (UHMW) on the underside of the link is replaceable however, from experience, i can tell you that if you grind down those hex heads that hold that piece in (by way of rocks), it is a pain to have to remove. I had to drill out almost all of them. What happened to me was that that black piece was ground so much that part of it was not connected and just flapping around. What i did after i removed all the screws was replace with a thicker piece of HDPE or was it UHMW (don't remember) and countersunk the screws. This way i could make my life easier when the next time i had to replace it.
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
bump 
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- #91
bump
I'm a little behind on the next few updates. HIH5 has taken priority and @bluecruiser is laser focused on that event, so we've been busy with that.
@bluecruiser drives an 80
Next updates will be some electronic type stuff that I did a while ago, but never documented.
-ARB fridge and how much I hate the ARB hella sockets
-HAM radio install
-LED lights (@OregonLC has the slickest setup for in-cab switches and I'd like to copy that)
-Extra socket up front so I can move the fridge to the front seat (used when my son and I sleep in the truck)
Thanks for the plug. I have subsequently landed that switch panel on a WiredWagon relay block to control the devices.
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
You 100 guys are so high tech.
r2m
Richard
paflytyer, a couple of questions regarding your roof top tent:
- How do you like that roof top tent?
- Did you look at any of the hard shell types?
- Is it possible to unbolt it form the rack and put it on the ground for camping in case one wants to have a base camp and not pack up the tent every time you want to leave camp? My family and I usually will pick a spot and make a base camp out of it and do short trips around the area we're at.
- Do you feel any top-heavyness when wheeling?
- Thread starter
- #96
The TJM Yulara is nice and I have very few complaints about it. Like most fold-over type RTT's, it's not always the smoothest operation when you're folding it up. The material squirts out of the sides and you have to stuff everything back in place before you can get the cover on. I like the hard shell types a lot and they are much simpler (and faster) than the fold-overs. However, I like the idea of the overhang and the ability to add an annex. The annex makes a good changing room and doubles as an extra room while sleeping. Me and my son have slept in the annex and my wife and girls slept in the tent. That makes the fold-over type really nice to have.
- Thread starter
- #98
Pic of the ICON LCA's..... and the ICON Stage III in use. You can see the extra reach on the right front. The tire is still on the shelf rock, so there's even more stretch to go. I'm really happy with this setup.
- Thread starter
- #99
So I've had this 12v socket under the passenger side dash for over a year now. It was supposed to be just used for a particular trip I was on where I wanted to be able to move the fridge from the back and put it on the front seat while my son and I slept in the back. It also gave me a full-time hot 12v in the front that was powered from my aux battery. It was long overdue to be done right. I had been just stuffing it under the dash when I didn't need it. Well, @bluecruiser made fun of it one too many times and I finally took the time to do it right.
I obviously had to pull the center console and drill a 1.25 inch hole in order for the plug to fit. This also gave me the chance to give that thing a good cleaning. So much cleaner and nicer now..... I still have to tuck those wires and clean that up, but this was about an hour of work for a nice clean plug. No more floppy plug.
Has anyone tried using a good plastics paint for the silver/grayish part of the console? Mine is trashed and scratched. I guess I could look at getting a whole new piece too.
I obviously had to pull the center console and drill a 1.25 inch hole in order for the plug to fit. This also gave me the chance to give that thing a good cleaning. So much cleaner and nicer now..... I still have to tuck those wires and clean that up, but this was about an hour of work for a nice clean plug. No more floppy plug.
Has anyone tried using a good plastics paint for the silver/grayish part of the console? Mine is trashed and scratched. I guess I could look at getting a whole new piece too.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Have you thought about ditching the 12v sockets and using power poles? Easier and much better. What's sticking out under your steering column?
Good job eliminating dangling wires. Always a good thing.
Good job eliminating dangling wires. Always a good thing.
