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paflytyer

100s in the Hills
Media Partner
Joined
Sep 27, 2011
Threads
62
Messages
2,608
Location
ColoRADo
There are so many nice 100's on here that it's nearly impossible for one to stand out anymore. The bolt on list is a mile long and vendors are bringing new things to the market every day. As I look around at 100s in the Hills each year, I see beautiful 100s without one modification done and others that are so clean and well built they could be featured on the SEMA show floor. Unfortunately, my 100 is neither of those anymore.

Every scratch, dent, bend and mark has its place though. This vehicle has brought me more happiness and adventure than any vehicle I will ever own. It's safely held my children on some of the toughest trails in Colorado, Utah, Wyoming and Montana. It's taken my wife and I out to some of the nicest restaurants in Denver. It's sheltered my dog and I during some of the fiercest rain, snow, wind and hail that Mother Nature has thrown at us. It's taken me to some of the most beautiful places in the most remote areas of the US. It's carried my fly fishing gear to the most pristine rivers and lakes throughout the Rocky Mountains. It's been the basis and starting point to friendships that will last a lifetime. It's also never let me down, not once.

Here's a quote from my first ever post on MUD....
I can't say that I'm an off roader..... I'm a fly fisherman who likes to get off the main road. This 100 series is mainly for camping, fishing, and 14er trailheads. I'll keep the mods pretty modest (tires, roof rack and maybe sliders) but a banged up stock bumper is probably in my future, so we'll see about a lift and front/rear bumpers later on.

I still can't say that I'm an offroader. I still just enjoy traveling the less traveled roads and trails. I'll never claim to wheel harder than most, or say that I run the hard trails. Mostly, I just follow the bumper that I wasn't even sure I'd ever need. Little did I know the wormhole that I was entering. Tires and sliders seem like eons ago.

Honestly, I have kept the mods pretty modest. I only did what I felt was needed or what I thought would be interesting to try. The best advice I received was to drive this truck stock and decide what I needed along the way. Unless you're going straight to the hardest trails in your area, this advice is priceless. Learn how to be a smart driver first, then build the vehicle to enhance that skillset. A good driver and a modest build will go much farther than a bad driver and all the bolt-ons on the shelf.

This 100 started as a Colorado born and raised stock vehicle. I drove it on some dirt roads and very mild trails like that for a few months.
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Then I added a set of BFG 275/70/18's for a little more aggressive tire and look. I also added a set of OME 865 springs and cranked the T-bars up a little. I was really making the ATRAC work on some of the climbs I was trying and the more aggressive tire really helped with that. The downside was the loss of gas mileage and on-road comfort. Nothing beats a totally stock Land Cruiser on the highway. Every mod from that point on is a trade off. Making one area better will make another area suffer. The cranking of the tbars made the cv's spit some grease. A quick call to Pfran and I ordered some McMaster-Carr clamps and a full LED kit. I'm still using that same stuff since that day. Never an issue.

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Since I was traveling some of the more remote areas of Colorado, I needed a set of sliders to protect my doors from the rocks and I needed a roof rack to carry some extra gear. I chose Metal Tech sliders mostly because they offered a steal of a price for their Cyber Monday sale. All these years later, and I still run that same set of Metal Tech sliders. They are not nearly as new as they once were and I don't know where I fall in the realm of using gear, but I can assure you that these sliders have held up to their fair share of beatings. I rank them as one of the best mods I've done. I could have chosen another vendor and maybe had the same results, although I know for a fact that the slight kick-out near the rear of the slider has saved me from body damage. A few years later I would have a problem with a "high end" set of shocks and Metal Tech made everything right and probably ate a large part of that cost. That's something that I never forgot and I have learned that quality customer service is priceless. Mark and his crew at Metal Tech are some of the best when it comes to customer service.

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For my roof rack, I went with a Gamiviti Expo rack @nakman and never looked back.
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IMO, there isn't a better rack on the market in terms of cost/function. It's super low profile, holds a stupid amount of weight and is very light. However, I felt like the design could have been improved on back then. I needed more of a "floor" and more places to attach straps, tie downs and bungees. So, I welded 1/4" round steel throughout the floor of the rack to give me all the things I wanted. I left the area over the sunroof open in the unlikely event that me or my family ever needed to escape the truck through the sunroof.

The material cost me almost nothing and I found a local powdercoater to re-coat the whole rack for $60. After all these years, it's still as good as new. Gamiviti has improved on the original design 3 or 4 times since then and I'm planning to purchase their newest edition this summer.

The noise that the roof rack made was unbearable and needed to be addressed. I was trying to spend as little as possible on mods and create anything I felt could save me a few dollars. I found a local plastic store here in Denver and stopped by to look around. I was able to purchase a piece of ABS plastic that I had cut to 55" x 6". Using cardboard, I mocked up a wind fairing and traced it onto the ABS. I cut the new piece using a Skil-saw and a dremel tool. Then I sanded the sharp edges and drilled some holes to attach it to the rack. My total cost was just under $18. It's held on with zip-ties in the crudest fashion possible, but has worked perfect ever since. I've since upgraded to high quality, UV resistant zip-ties, but I still replace them once a year. Could I come up with something better? Sure, but I kinda like the anti-conforming idea I originally used.

I found a front bumper on sale back then too. It was an ARB combo bumper and because I live in Colorado and often travel remote areas at night returning from fishing, I liked the idea of the bars that protect the hood and headlights from deer/elk/moose/bear. I installed it by myself right in my driveway. So many new bumpers have hit the market since then, but I'm still pretty happy with this one. I traveled many, many miles and drove plenty of trails with my 100 set up just like that. That may have been my favorite setup. 33's, small lift, rack, sliders, front bumper and my most useful mod, a dual battery setup.
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I wasn't much for working on vehicles before owning this 100. I had some knowledge, but my desire to learn and willingness to just get in there and do it were my biggest assets. The MUD forum was a huge resource. I was lucky enough to live in Denver and belong to Rising Sun 4x4 Club, so I had a distinct advantage with all the knowledgeable Land Cruiser owners in my area.
 
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My dual battery setup is probably the easiest and cheapest one on here and I wouldn't trade it for 10 fancy ones. I bet I don't have $400 in the entire thing including batteries and battery tray. Regardless of what anyone tells you, you don't need a uber expensive setup. You don't need fancy lights, alarms and boxes telling you stuff all day long. People have been running two or more batteries for years. A little common sense will go a long way to ensuring you can run dual batteries without issue. To each his own, and if someone smarter than me says you need two $250 Diehard Platinum batteries, then by all means, buy two. I have one Platinum and one Gold. I use a $25 Cole Hersee battery isolator/solenoid and a $30 fuse box. I chose the Slee dual battery tray because it fits perfect and Slee Offroad makes some of the most high quality and well thought-out products on the market.

My batteries are connected via the Cole Hersee switch. When the switch is "on" the batteries are connected. When the switch is "off" they are disconnected. Simple. 2 wires, no boxes, no lights, no frills. Nothing to break, nothing to read, nothing to short out.

I did not like the expensive dual battery boxes because of the way they charge, link and pretend to be "smart". There are many faults with both systems, I just chose something very simple. The best way to run two batteries would be to separate them at the alternator with an electronic solenoid controller in the cab with the ability to manually swap batteries or charge each one individually. This requires a lot more work and since I'm not a electric guy, I wanted to keep this as simple as possible. When I pull into camp, I open the hood and flip the switch. This allows me to run all my camp needs (fridge, ham radio, camp lights) off the aux battery and leave the main battery untouched and unused. Granted, I have to remember to flip the switch to separate the two batteries, but I've never forgotten yet. I've actually tested it for two days at my house, and my battery was hardly drained anyway. It's proven to be one of my favorite mods because I built the entire thing myself and it cost me so little money that I'm very proud of it. My ham radio has a built in volt meter that tells me the voltage of the aux battery, so I always know where I'm at.

Remember, if your truck is running and the lights on the dual battery box show full batteries, that's not a representation of your battery levels. The box is reading your alternator. It doesn't know if you have one battery or 10 batteries. They will show full. You need to test the battery when the truck is off.
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I drove my truck just like this for a long time. Even without the front bumper......
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Eventually, I ripped the rear bumper off on a steep climb. It was time to visit Slee Off Road again for what I still believe is the best rear bumper for a Land Cruiser.


jonharis photo^

I chose to only run a single swing-out because I don't need a ladder and I didn't want to deal with opening both sides. I see the benefit of the second swing-out for carrying fuel and water, but I have others means to do that.

I also needed a 90,000 mile service at the same time as the rear bumper, and there was only one place that I even considered. Slee Offroad has one of the best Land Cruiser tech's in the country in Joe Risavi. Christo went through the list of items that were needed/included in their 90k service. I picked out a few of the easy ones that I was comfortable doing myself (fuel filter, brakes, repacking wheel bearings, heater hose T's etc.) Everything else was in Joe's hands. Again, I'm fortunate to live so close to Slee Offroad and the peace of mind in knowing that it was going to be done right was worth every penny. I did the heater hose T write up shortly after that. I also did the rear back-up camera bracket mod write up.

The rear bumper has proven to be one of the most worthwhile mods I've done. I have probably only hit my front bumper 3 times while dropping off shelves that were tall enough to lawn dart the truck. I maybe hit it less than 15-20 times on walls that were tall enough to hit the bumper before the wheels grabbed traction. I have smacked my rear bumper more times than I could count. If I was building another 100, the step by step would include the rear bumper long before the front bumper. But, it's not a cheap addition, so like most folks, I did it backwards. Wanna see it in action? Imagine if that was the stock rear bumper.

With the addition of the rear bumper it was time to address the suspension some more. I started out with the standard OME lift and 860 springs. Eventually I thought I needed something more substantial and high dollar. I tried an early version of Radflo shocks and had nothing but problems. This was a long time ago and they may have corrected the issues, but to say I was disappointed would be a huge understatement. That story has been documented plenty on here by other people, so there is no need to go into it. That incident gave me the opportunity to pull my suspension apart and cycle everything and learn how things work, take some measurements and build something myself.

@bluecruiser, @jonharis and I had become pretty good friends so I had two guys to talk with about what I was going to do next. Bluecruiser had done the L shock mod and I thought it would be a fun project to try on my truck. I was able to source a set of 80 Series N74L's from Metal Tech and Christo had the bushing kits for the standard OME 100 series shocks that I needed. I pieced everything together and built my own spring retention method and lowered my bumpstops for about $5 in parts from Home Depot. I'm still using those same parts today.

This is the very technical drawing that @bluecruiser texted me while I was building this setup. It's almost embarrassing how non-expo we are. That's probably why we have become such good friends. We don't conform to the "must-haves", we just simply enjoy getting out on the trail and finding ways to make things work without spending heaps of cash.
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From that stellar drawing, I built this.....
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I also ripped the standard length sway bar links off about 10 minutes after getting on the trail. I installed a set of Man-a-Fre 80 series extended links the next week and they are still the ones I'm running today.
 
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Maintenance was important to me, so I had baselined everything pretty early on and I would always go through and find something else that needed replacing. I was starting to use my truck a little more and I noticed little things were bent here or worn there. I replaced every bushing and maintenance item I could find. I repacked the wheel bearings a few times just to be sure I knew how everything worked and went together.

I thought upgrading the brakes would be a good idea since I needed rotors anyway. At the time, Jonesy's Offroad was just starting to carry 360 Performance rotors and I thought I'd give them a shot. A trick to removing the rotor from the hub without a vice, mount the hub backwards on the inside of the wheel and tighten the lugs just a little from the outside to avoid damaging the wheel, now you can really crank on the studs to remove the rotor and install the new one.
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I also wanted to try 35"s and see if they improved my on trail performance. The BFG's I'd been running actually held up well over the years and I couldn't complain, I just wanted something a little more aggressive. I didn't realize the downward spiral I was getting into just by installing a (almost) 35" tire.

I chose the Nitto Trail Grappler MT in 295/70/18. I loved it. Except that it didn't fit.

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Going back and forth to the store, it was fine. I could stop some of the rubbing by adjusting the turn stops and bending some things out of the way. I still rubbed at the frame and on the UCA. Offroad was a different story. Any larger hit or off-camber flex and the tire rubbed hard. I spoke with @spressomon about some of the things he had done to prevent rubbing and damage during high speed hits and full compression. He was a pioneer for what was being done on the 100 at the time and his knowledge was extremely helpful.

Jonesy's Offroad was just developing the 100 Series body lift kit complete with brackets for lowering the radiator and steering spacers for correcting the steering angle. Honestly, if I had to do it over, I don't know if I'd do this mod again. I'd stick with a large 33" tire and skip the body lift, steering fix and radiator lowering. You simply cannot add 35s and use the 100 offroad without the body lift. You can't add the body lift without lowering the radiator (the fan will contact the shroud... you could cut the shroud too I guess), you cannot add the body lift without adding a steering spacer and you cannot add a steering spacer without widening the hole in the body plate at the firewall. Well, you could skip all of those things if you'll never go offroad or you just like doing things incorrectly. Even after that, the fit isn't perfect but it works well enough to not cause any problems. The entire process took two days to complete. The body lift was the majority of that time. The steering spacer and body plate hole mod took more time than needed, only because I didn't know what I was doing and had to learn on the go.

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It can all be found here (with pics)... Steering spacer mod about halfway down. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-1-body-lift.726982/page-6

35's and no body lift.....
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35s with the body lift....
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Back to necessity.....

I've been saying I needed a drawer system and a way to carry water for years. "Need" is always a heavy word. I haven't needed much for this truck over the years. You don't need lockers for 80-90% of the driving most of us do. You need good driving skills, good spotters and smart decisions.

A few years ago, I was headed to Moab with @bluecruiser and @jonharis for another week of travel where most 100 series don't go. I didn't want to sleep on the ground or buy a RTT, so I built a way to sleep in my truck for a few dollars of wood and carpet from Lowes. I added a few tie-downs so I could strap gear to the new floor.
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I also chose my water retention system. It's a 7.5 gallon Aqua-Tainer from Wally World that cost $12. I just used it again last week. The super-built $1k systems are awesome, but I couldn't justify the cost/benefit ratio for that mod. Same goes for fuel. An aux tank is sweet, but at $1200+, I could carry extra fuel in Rotopax style containers I found on Craigslist. Total cost to carry 8 extra gallons, $40.

I also found my shower system on Craigslist. A brand new Zodi Hot Water shower system and privacy enclosure (mandatory when you have a wife and twin daughters) for $75. Although, a hot water shower system from Cruiser Outfitters is in my future. I've just been waiting for the time to drive to Salt Lake to visit Kurt and his crew. If I hadn't found that sweet deal on CL, I would have made that visit a long time ago. The Helton system is on my list for 2015.

At that point in 2012-2013, I was still driving an unlocked, ATRAC only 2004 Land Cruiser with no winch and minimal modifications. Guess what? I followed @jonharis and @bluecruiser all over Colorado and Utah with no issues. They are two of the best drivers I've ever been around. Although I had some 4x4 driving experience, I was still new to the 100 series. Following them allowed me to learn how to take all the same lines but in an ATRAC only Land Cruiser. Rose Garden Hill, unlocked, no winch, no body lift (lots of rubbing)
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Once again..... smart driving, great spotting from @jonharis and @bluecruiser got me through with no issues.

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Don't let anyone tell you that you need this or that mod to get out on the trail. You can enjoy so much for very little money, some ingenuity and common sense. Eventually...... you'll break something. Fully built or mod-less, pushing your truck to the limit will cause things to fail.
 
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Summer of 2013...... I heard a crunch......then a clunk, followed by more clunks. I lifted a front wheel going over a large rock and when that wheel touched down and ATRAC was searching for traction, the pinion gear jumped off the ring gear and sheared some teeth. I was a victim of the blown front differential. I actually had practiced what needed to be done to isolate the front differential in case of a break. I had also done it a few times for other people who had blown their front diff.

The timing on this break was terrible for me...... 10 days before the 3rd Annual 100s in the Hills. For those of you who are unaware, 100s in the Hills is the culmination of nearly 9 months of work for Jonathan, Chris and I. It's the largest gathering of 100 Series Land Cruisers in the USA, maybe the world. I had 10 days to remove and replace a blown front diff. Something I didn't even know how to do. Time to learn..... and fast.



I made two phone calls. One to Christo Slee and one to Carl Montoya @justdifferentials. Both guys were helpful and they were sympathetic to my needs with HIH right around the corner. They're both HIH sponsors and attendees too. Carl and I talked for a long time about what my options were and how to go about doing it. We talked re-gearing, lockers, parts, differentials and time. In the end, I chose a TJM Pro air locker for the front. Under normal circumstances, this is when you tear the front and rear apart, regear and add f/r lockers. My biggest hurdle was time. I didn't have the time to complete the front and rear, re-gear and do the required break in (heat and cool cycle) of the new gears. Besides, lockers and gears are not cheap. Carl set the locker up for me in the new housing and used gears that were already broken in to save time. He did this the same day I called and had it to my door two days later. There are few places with better customer service and attention to detail than Nitro Gear and Axle and Just Differentials.

I took everything apart and installed the new differential, compressor and locker switches just in time. I was rolling again with one of the first TJM Pro Lockers in a 100 Series. It's been bombproof ever since. I use it pretty often and have had no issues. I'm extremely happy with my choice and if I was doing it again, I'd go with TJM. ARB has more of a presence here in the USA and they may be easier to get, but I like the TJM design better. This mod is near the top of the list if I was starting over today.
 
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With all this hype about overlanding and expo this and that, I was getting out pretty often. Many times I was alone, or the only vehicle with my family all packed inside. I needed to address some recovery gear and camping needs. TJM USA was having a little trouble in the US market and I was able to purchase a 12,000 lb. Stealth winch and a Yulara roof top tent for a great price. I'm actually surprised that TJM has not done better in the US market. I've been really happy with their offerings. I did have an issue with the winch, but TJM not only replaced the parts free of charge, they overnighted them to my house. Having what you need when you need it, is pretty important.

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Once again, Carl at @justdifferentials came through for me when TJM was all out of their annex's for the Yulara. He had one available and even delivered it to me at HIH. For the price that I paid, this tent and annex was well worth the money.



Unfortunately, that tent met its sad demise when my wife forgot it was on the roof and tried to park in our garage. $6500 in damage later, the house is fixed. Believe it or not, I totally disassembled the tent and fixed it enough to be totally usable again! I had to torch the brackets to get them hot enough to bend back into place, but everything works as it should (except for the zipper on the cover)
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I am shopping for a new RTT anyway, but we'll probably keep this one as a spare or use it on my wife's vehicle. @TepuiTents and @CVT Cascadia Vehicle Tents are my two top choices right now, but I will be getting a better look at some others very soon as well.
 
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Great historical write up Stan!
 
Subscribed for updates
 
Great write up @paflytier, but it's the people inside of this 100 that make it one of the coolest ones out there!

Speaking of new Gamiviti Rack designs, check out the development progress that shows up on the one they just completed for me a couple months ago:
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Custom front to accommodate a recessed 52" light bar and showing the Expo++ grab rails and new tie down/gusset additions. It's a winner and very quiet with the hard top tent installed.


My next vote for @paflytier on the 100; NITRO GEARS!
 
Some cool new things are already installed and need to be written about. (You know some of them)
 
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Nice recap Stan. No 200 series in your near future?
 
Great start on your write up, Pat. I have definitely seen your truck morph from a fully Armor-All'd, Carnuba waxed, Centennial resident owned rig into a 'real' Land Cruiser. Actually that morph pretty much happened the first time we met. Every time I checked my mirror on the trail, you were following right behind me. I thought "no way is this guy in the shiniest truck I have ever seen, following me!", but you always were. We have done a bunch of cool trips together and it is nice to hang with a guy that isn't obsessed with having every 'mod', but actually just cares about the journey and the destination. Your rig is well built and will serve you and your family well for many years (or at least until you get an 80). This is a great writeup for all of the guys that think you can't go wheel you truck until you have sunk $30K in "upgrades" into it.....keep up the good work in the LC community! #sugarplumcruisers #CMBanditos
 
paflytyer said:
Lots of low cost, high bennie mods still need to be written about. A few "I wasn't ready to spend that much money mods" will be shown too.

I like how you try to make mods as economical as possible. Money is tight, so I am planning to follow your strategy and enjoy my time in the process. Thank you for sharing. Subscribed.
 
nice write-up. Looking forward to the rest.
will sticky it up for a bit.


Can you clarify what you meant by the "main battery will charge first etc", though? I can't quite see that. And not exactly clear how you've wired it all. If you have 2 batteries in parallel, with the alternator connected directly to one and cables from there to the second one (if that's what you have), well, it's true that the second one will see a slightly lower voltage because of the loss in the cables, but if the cables are big enough that loss should be negligible and the batteries would charge at the same time and pretty much at the same rate. I don't think it's like the main one charges first with nothing going on at the second one and then the second one finally starts to charge when the first one is fully-charged. Or am I missing something?
 

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