Favorite Knife Sharpener

[Trollhole]

What do you have and how much was it?

I've gone through quite a few sharpeners lately. One sharpener I hate is the rod style you see that comes in all the knife blocks. It a pain to get the angle right or better yet completely slick from years of abuse. So I did a little research and found a lot of people like this little Smiths pocket sharpener. Tried it out because if it didn't work I was only out $8. Have to say it's hands down the best sharpener I've ever used. I've gone through all the knives in the house. Everything is back to being razor sharp. Ought to be handy for camping as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Smiths-PP1-Poc...arpener+course


I've now stocked up on a half dozen to use as gifts for family and friends. Everyone can use a decent sharpener.

 

[zags]

I have used a Lanskey sharpener for several years. It is the last sharpener I will ever buy. I think it was around 40 bucks. It comes with different grit stones and is adjustable for different angles. You can get blades stupid sharp with it.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

The lansky works pretty well. A close second is a spyderco tri sharp. You can find them anywhere from $35-$70. These two really only work well for blades under 8".

I still prefer a 18"x3" set of arkansas stones. Once you learn how to maintain the angle and progressively work the slurry to a fine polish nothing is better. They'll run you anywhere from $50 to $150 but they should last a few lifetimes with regular use. You can also sharpen any length blade with the flat stones. I've sharpened everything from x-acto blades to swords with them.

Btw, the metal round rod in the knife block is only for realigning the furthermost part of the knife edge. As you cut hard materials or bounce off of them, like a cutting board, the edge gets rolled over. The steel rod is consumable and you should only use light pressure whilst using. Use it every time before/after cutting and you'll prolong the time between sharpenings when blade material is removed. A leather/canvas stop also works wonders to keeping a fine edge.

as a note#
be careful with electric sharpeners as you can remove a lot of blade material very quickly.

 

[JohnVee]

Devilman is correct about the steel not being a sharpener. I like the Lansky diamond model, myself, but I'm sure there are other good ones out there. Somebody gave us an electric sharpener when we got married. I was hesitant for a long time but found that it works rather well on the kitchen knives once I tried it. I'll have to check the model later.

On a side note, I really love the Victorinox paring knives with the black plastic handle. They sharpen beautifully.

--john

 

[splitshot]

What do you have and how much was it?

I've gone through quite a few sharpeners lately. One sharpener I hate is the rod style you see that comes in all the knife blocks. It a pain to get the angle right or better yet completely slick from years of abuse. So I did a little research and found a lot of people like this little Smiths pocket sharpener. Tried it out because if it didn't work I was only out $8. Have to say it's hands down the best sharpener I've ever used. I've gone through all the knives in the house. Everything is back to being razor sharp. Ought to be handy for camping as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Smiths-PP1-Poc...arpener+course


I've now stocked up on a half dozen to use as gifts for family and friends. Everyone can use a decent sharpener.

Just ordered 2. Thanks!

 

[NorCalDoug]

... One sharpener I hate is the rod style you see that comes in all the knife blocks. It a pain to get the angle right or better yet completely slick from years...

as already stated...those are "sharpening" steels.
(swiped from a web page...)
Sharpening Steels
Sharpening steels are really misnamed. For the most part these tools help you hone a knife so they should be called honing rods. Honing is basically the process where you push the metal on the edge back into alignment. Sharpening actually grinds the edge. The only steels the grind metal are the ceramic and diamond steels.

I go old school with my knives...and use a "water stone" to sharpen my knives. A couple times a year is usually good for me.
This is what I'm currently using.

 

[KLF]

I do coaching and technical support for the ACF (American Culinary Federation) student competition team at our school, I was on the team 2 years ago. Part of this competition is a basic skills set where everybody does the same thing, all prep skills, but knife skills are carefully scrutinized. We have to julienne a carrot, tournet a potato (huge PITA), section an orange, filet a flat fish, etc. Seriously, they actually measure your cuts and check that they are square and clean. Razor sharp knives are a necessity if you want to do well here, and sometimes the judges even check your knives. Gimmick tools are frowned upon, just very sharp knives and lots (LOTS) of practice.

I keep the team knives sharp. I've tried several types of sharpening tools, even the Lansky jig which I felt was just a gimmick. I will not use a motorized sharpener, they are too dangerous and can ruin a knife too easily, not something you want to do with a $250 Shun chef's knife. I also will not use any of those various quickie "pull through" sharpeners that you see hawked on TV. If those things are making your knives that much sharper, then they must have been REALLY dull in the first place. They have no conscience and will not take off material evenly, you can ruin the profile of a knife eventually if overused.

My favorite way is old school with a set of Japanese water stones that I've had for many years, I bought them at a woodworking store for sharpening planes and chisels. I have a regular Arkansas-style oil-stone for fixing big problems or if the knife needs to be re-profiled, but then I have 800, 1200, 1600, and 6000 grit water stones. It takes a long time, but it's worth it. I've spent up to an hour getting a knife tuned up. You just have to be patient.

Here's where I learned my technique, this guy knows about knives and sharpening: http://kramerknives.com/sharpening/

I can get a good knife that sharp (try the folded newspaper test).

 

[JohnVee]

I keep the team knives sharp. I've tried several types of sharpening tools, even the Lansky jig which I felt was just a gimmick. I will not use a motorized sharpener, they are too dangerous and can ruin a knife too easily, not something you want to do with a $250 Shun chef's knife. I also will not use any of those various quickie "pull through" sharpeners that you see hawked on TV. If those things are making your knives that much sharper, then they must have been REALLY dull in the first place. They have no conscience and will not take off material evenly, you can ruin the profile of a knife eventually if overused.

Here's where I learned my technique, this guy knows about knives and sharpening: http://kramerknives.com/sharpening/

I can get a good knife that sharp (try the folded newspaper test).

I should have added that I like the Lansky for pocket knives and short utility blades. The gimmick works and it's quick. I only have to pay enough attention to not cut myself. The Chefs Choice 3-level model is great for average joe kitchen stuff. Wonderful, if you go slowly. I have NOT used it on any of the knives that I don't let other people use. I only have a few like that and they came to me perfect and still are. I agree with KLF and will acquire and practice with a water stone set before I touch the good knives.

My mom has used a glass cutting board for probably 30 years. She never had sharp knives till I got the electric sharpener. She refuses to get rid of the glass. I'll go over and touch them up a few times a year. She also thought that the steel in the block was a sharpener. I don't know why she never questioned it not working.

--john

 

[e9999]

the steel rod does work well for its *intended* purpose. I use it all the time.

The carbide blades work well also for a quick sharpening but do remove an excessive amount of material IMO. You can turn a regular kitchen knife into a "filleting" knife after a couple dozens uses...

I've used stones, Lanskys, electrics etc. I do like the Zen effect of the stones...

 

[KLF]

Stones let me "feel" the knife getting sharper.

A steel is, as others have said, just for re-setting the "teeth" of the blade. It will not sharpen a knife. And you really shouldn't be doing more than 4-5 swipes each time you use it. They do wear out, the ridges get ground off, fortunately they are not expensive. They should be slightly magnetic to hold the tiny shavings that come off the blade, be sure to wipe the steel off with a towel after use.

Gordon Ramsey may be a good chef, but he knows NOTHING about steeling a blade, this how NOT to use a steel:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syvvxx3eGpI

He even titles the video "sharpening" furthering the myth.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

fyi, for those that do not know the ways of the steel, do not wipe the steel with your hand b/c you will embed very fine slivers of metal into your hand. As KLF mentioned, use a towel.

There are also different grades of steels to be used with different blades. For the Shun blades that mostly use VG-10 for the cutting edge they recommend using a harder steel otherwise you will prematurely consume the steel. I thought this bunk at first, but this really has some merit.

the waterstones are the way to go if you have the time and don't mind sitting in front of a bucket and getting a little wet. If you use a flat grind or chisel grind you should use the flat stone.

The electric sharpeners really do take too much material off at once. This might not matter on a cheaper knife, but i cringe at the thought on my blades. (I use mainly Shun Classics and SS)
When I professionally sharpened blades we used manual and very expensive electric sharpeners. The electric ones had a double row of spinning wheels made of a very fine and soft material similar to foam mixed with toothpaste. Even these super soft wheels removed material very quickly and you can easily screw up the edge.

I always get a better edge with the flat stones.

If you like the convenience of the pull through sharpeners, use the ones with the double set of ceramic wheels, usually a gray(medium) and white(fine) wheels. The carbide blades ruin knives to the point that you will likely need to regrind the edge.They seem to work ok on a filet knife because the blade and edge is so thin.

this is just my opinion though

 

[yzftaco]

Hands down, the Edge pro is awesome! Infinite angle adjustment, and many different stones


I bought the Apex model since it's portable. I love it! and you can sharpen better than a razor blade.

http://www.edgeproinc.com/


Edit: Most steels ruin your blade, use a ceramic hone...

 

[Blue77FJ40]

I'm with Devilmans Hand on the stones, steel, and leather strop. I have a double-sided Arkansas stone for the shaping and fine tuning. I only use the grinder/dremel on garden tool edges.

 

[Diskord]

I'm with Devilmans Hand on the stones, steel, and leather strop. I have a double-sided Arkansas stone for the shaping and fine tuning. I only use the grinder/dremel on garden tool edges.

Agreed, I have tried a number of sharpeners over time, from commercial to "as seen on tv" garbage, nothing works better than a good stone You just need to ne aware of your angle, and maintain it. It take some practice initially, but once you master it nothing will compare.

 

[sggoat]

The waterstones are far superior to any other sharpening system in my opinion--400, 800, 1200, 4000. Takes time, yes, but you will have a sharp knife for a long time, and it will be easier to re-establish the edge when it begins to dull. A lot depends on the steel used in the knife itself-stainless is impossible. High carbon steel is very forgiving-will take a superior edge, and will last(as long as you don't scrap food off the cutting board with the edge-like I've seen so many so-called 'chefs' do) Maybe they do this because someone else is sharpening their knives for them. When I see this, it makes me cringe--I also wouldn't eat anything they prepared because it's obvious they don't care.