Fat Amy Gets a Set of 37" Tires

[InkMing]

Alright. Here are some thoughts.

First, that is just nugging futs. 37s... On the 200... Damn...
That is awesome.

So I know I am not comparing apples to apples. But on Jeeps with a solid axle front, you need to really build up the axle more for 37s and larger, so, gusset the Cs for sure, truss and sleeve as well. Assuming stock Dana 44.

On the FJ Cruiser, out of the folks that I know that did 35s, they were destroying the rear end and also CV axles. For the most part is seems on that particular vehicle 33s was really the limit of how it came engineered from the factory and the folks at Toyota.

Thing is, the LC is neither a Jeep nor a FJ Cruiser and is built on a much more stout and unique platform.

I wonder what the long term effects of running the 37s would be. And also how things would hold up once you really started abusing it off road. Brian said when he had 37s on his Tundra they did great. Also sounds like the unsprung weight might be less or equivalent to a 35, so that would help lessen the impact on components as well.

If you are having some rubbing now, what about under full articulation? How is that going to be and what would you need to do to circumvent that?

 

[MScruiser]

Rubbing is only on the frame and KDSS. I may be wrong, but I can't imagine those areas getting too much more rubbing during articulation. Now, there will certainly be the increased possibility of rubbing on the wheel well and fender. But, I did do a body lift, so the distance between the Top of the tire and fender vs when I had 35s, has not changed. Just my $0.02. I could be totally wrong though...

 

[Willy beamin]

`

The perfect 35" recipe is a big lift, RWs, Slee Brackets, and a body lift. I was not getting any rubbing with that combo besides a tiny tiny bit on the KDSS at full lock.

Switching to 37s though, has created new challenges that still need to be overcome. I have no doubt that my increased height from the BL can allow for the increased diameter, and some cutting with an angle grinder has all but stopped the rubbing on the plastic trim. The major hurdle now, will be getting the wheels off of the frame during steering. I think this only leaves 2 options.

Option 1: Get a wheel with different back spacing that'll get the tire away from the frame. This, is what Artic Trucks does; but Artic Trucks also cut the fenders, because now, the tires stick out much further. This option, is not really an option for me, as it would require new wheels, and fender cutting, in addition to fender flares. All of which I do not want to do.

Option 2: Get a wheel spacer the perfect width, that gets the tire away from the frame, while simultaneously keeping the front tires tucked inside of the factory wheel well. I may be able to accomplish this with a set of 1.25" Spidertrax Spacers. Not sure if they would solve the problem though. I ordered a set and they should be here early next week. Fingers crossed.

I will also add that I DO NOT think that any larger tire could be used, based on the position of the KDSS arm. Just my $0.02.

If that doesn't work out the way you'd like what's the thought on welding a "shim / spacer" on the backside of the wheel to account for perfect backspacing and then getting extended wheel studs to account for the added "shim / spacer". Would that not allow the balance of perfect (tire / wheel) tuck / back spacing and extending the wheel out a bit more for clearance on turning rub. Not an engineer so I have no idea how all that would work out on additional pressure / leverage and bearing wear. Just a thought, maybe a cure - who knows - main concern would be safety

 

[MScruiser]

A shim might work. They are certainly readily available.

 

[Willy beamin]

I see a welder making its way into your shop - oh I hear harbor freight calling now

 

[MScruiser]

I have a welder. It would not be a good idea to try and weld a shim on the wheel though. I'm going to just use the Spidertrax spacers and see if that does the trick.

 

[Willy beamin]

care to elaborate

 

[D21FJ60]

I still say we need a drool emoticon. I liked your truck stock due to the color so this just gets better and better

 

[InkMing]

There are some places that can make custom spacers for you to your spec. Not sure of cost though.

 

[MScruiser]

care to elaborate

Wheels are forged alloy; extremely dufficult to weld. Spacers would need to be similar alloy; would need to be custom made most likely. Welds would likely cause balance issues. Welds would also need to be machined flush with back of wheel; very expensive. Overall too complex. You'd be better off with just a regular stainless steel shim sandwiched between the hub and wheel.

 

[MScruiser]

Ok, so I have had a lot more time behind the wheel, and I thought I would give an update.

1. With the rubbing during steering I would not consider the truck very DD friendly. It starts catching at around 3/4 turns, and around 4/5ths, you are really rubbing the tires.
2. Power Loss. I got to take it on the interstate for quite a ways this morning and afternoon, and yeah, I can feel the loss now. Doesn't pull nearly as hard when I give it a little gas.
3. Stop and Go traffic. I experienced a little gear hunting by the transmission around 15-20 mph. It was annoying.
4. I have decided that Goodyear MTRs must be the loudest tire on the market.

So, thoughts:

I will put a set of Spidertrax spacers on and see if the rubbing reaches a level that is "livable". Right now, it is just too much. IF and only if the spacers solve the problems of rubbing, will I even remotely consider switching to 37s as a permanent tire. Right now though, I am leaning towards going back to my 35s, which after the 1" body lift, stopped rubbing altogether. I will say, that if the 37s become a permanent fixture, regearing will be absolutely necessary. Just my $0.02.

 

[Markuson]

I still say we need a drool emoticon. I liked your truck stock due to the color so this just gets better and better

Yes we do...

 

[bj70cruiser]

I've got a set of Bora spacers on my 200 and my Tacoma, and I've been happy with them. They also blend in better that the blue spidertrax.

 

[MScruiser]

Did a shakedown run with the 37s yesterday. No major flexing, but lots of corrugated roads, some ditches, and other non exciting things. I am confident, besides the removal of my ARB mudflaps, that the rear suspension will be a non issue, especially with the Timbren bumpstops.

The front still had a considerable amount of rubbing on the frame and frame mount bracket.

Frame behind the LCA:

Body mount bracket (rubbing occured where dirt has been rubbed off):

You can also see where the tire has been making contact with the KDSS arm:

Spidertrax get here on Tuesday. I do believe that they will alleviate the rubbing pictured above. Sadly, I also believe that because of the new offset, the tires will now make more contact with the plastic trim that the OE mudflaps used to attach to. Nothing a grinding wheel couldn't fix, but I've already taken off more from that area than I wanted to. Time will tell.

 

[dmc]

Re-gearing our race truck made a HUGE difference. The tranny is no longer hunting for gears and all the power is back. We went with 4.88s.

 

[MScruiser]

Thats good to hear, Dave. Thanks for the advice. If I do decide to stick with them, gearing would be a must.

 

[MScruiser]

Well, good news and bad news.

Good news is, is that the spacers came in today and I was able to get them installed on go on a test drive. The spacers solved almost all of the rubbing issues I had on the frame, DS KDSS, and PS KDSS/swaybar.

The bad news is, is that while the spacers fixed the issues on the frame, is seemed to make the rubbing on the frame/body mount backets even worse. Yeah, I guess if you were adventurous, you could find a way around this, but for me it was too much, and rubbing began as early at 1/2 lock.

So, that will conclude my experiment. I have come to the conclusion that if you want 37s and don't mind a fair bit of rubbing, you can do what I originally did with my setup. Or, you can get wheels with some major offset, and cut your fenders (a-la Arctic Trucks).

For me, I will go back to 35s, or maybe something ever-so-slightly bigger.

 

[Willy beamin]

Nothing ventured nothing gained - Kudos to you for the effort and you learned a s*** ton about your rig in the process - my hat is off to you young man

 

[steenh]

Gotta say, you pushed the boundaries and it was awesome to see it all unfold!

 

[Markuson]

Gotta say, you pushed the boundaries and it was awesome to see it all unfold!

Bottom line: You tried something bold and found out what the limits are--or at least what YOU are willing to accept--or not.
Thankfully you found the "limit" without anything catastrophic happening.

To the contrary... Just yesterday, I watched on youtube where several guys tried jumps in their BRAND NEW Ford Raptor...that was clearly pushing it well beyond the limits of the vehicle. They basically totaled their band new truck because they ignore obvious "red flags" and ended in catastrophic damage. You didn't do that. So good for you.

One of the things I love about this forum is that people are willing to chime in with questions, suggestions and warnings that any single one of us might miss on our own. The other thing I love is that there are tons of guys with so much mechanical knowledge I simply don't have...but that let us watch their process and ideas. I've learned a TON from this forum, and have a lot more to learn. But I love that this place gives a stage for trial and error, along with inspiration and ideas about what we might do next...or what we might choose to avoid.

Anyway... All good, and now you know!