Fat Amy Gets a Set of 37" Tires

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I'm 5'9" and don't have trouble getting in.
 
As far as handling, it certainly feels a bit more top heavy, and braking is much softer with the big heavy tires/wheels.

But all the extra rubber certainly makes for a softer ride.
 
As far as handling, it certainly feels a bit more top heavy, and braking is much softer with the big heavy tires/wheels.

But all the extra rubber certainly makes for a softer ride.

I didn't see a brake upgrade on your build thread. Do you see that in your future plans? I also imagine that there's a steering stabilizer kit that may help with the top heavy feeling too.
 
Steering is fine, just feels like a big truck.

No brake update yet; I'll probably do the Tundra upgrade if I ever lay my hands on a new set of calipers.
 
The perfect 35" recipe is a big lift, RWs, Slee Brackets, and a body lift. I was not getting any rubbing with that combo besides a tiny tiny bit on the KDSS at full lock.

Switching to 37s though, has created new challenges that still need to be overcome. I have no doubt that my increased height from the BL can allow for the increased diameter, and some cutting with an angle grinder has all but stopped the rubbing on the plastic trim. The major hurdle now, will be getting the wheels off of the frame during steering. I think this only leaves 2 options.

Option 1: Get a wheel with different back spacing that'll get the tire away from the frame. This, is what Artic Trucks does; but Artic Trucks also cut the fenders, because now, the tires stick out much further. This option, is not really an option for me, as it would require new wheels, and fender cutting, in addition to fender flares. All of which I do not want to do.

Option 2: Get a wheel spacer the perfect width, that gets the tire away from the frame, while simultaneously keeping the front tires tucked inside of the factory wheel well. I may be able to accomplish this with a set of 1.25" Spidertrax Spacers. Not sure if they would solve the problem though. I ordered a set and they should be here early next week. Fingers crossed.

I will also add that I DO NOT think that any larger tire could be used, based on the position of the KDSS arm. Just my $0.02.

Or Option 3: Install a Tundra front suspension lift. No body lift needed. I installed a Pro Comp Tundra front suspension on my LC. The kit comes with new drop front & rear crossmembers. I'm running about 4 inches of lift with 35x12.50x20 BFG's and tons of increased suspension available. The kit also comes with longer sway bar links so the KDSS system stays level. The MAIN reason in performing this in depth surgery is to get my front CV axles level. And they are!! Thats the biggest limitation to these rigs in regards to lift. The CV axles can only operate at certain angles. You could easily add coil or strut spacers and clear 37's no problem and keep dive line angles correct!

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The tundra brakes are better when you really need them. There is more bite and ability to control the brake force in a hard stop.

During normal driving, the cruiser brake controlling computer still eases you into slowing down.

First thing you notice after the swap is that it feel a the same.

The first time you stab the brakes to avoid unaware road fodder, the difference is amazing.
 
Amy looks good! Damn your tire's weigh close to 90lbs, and I was worried about how 53lb BFG AT/KO2's were going to effect my 200??? I'm going to stop worrying;)
 

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