Aisin is OEM for the fan bracket. It's the exact same part. For the record, when I replaced the original fan bracket at 229,000 miles the bearing still looked good.
Fan support bracket & bearing - with high mileage check yours
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Ah, fantastic, didn't realize it was OEM. I'm at 176k, was one of those "while you're in there" things since I've got a pulley screech to solve. I may just check it to save time. Which I'll probably regret later.
I would replace it while you're in there. I'd also be prepared to replace your water pump if it's not an Aisin or OEM. My bet it isn't. Idler pulley, fan clutch, and thermostat are also cheap items you should consider replacing. Idler pulley should be OEM.
Water pump, thermostat and belt were done 36k ago - but correct, no idea what brand was put in there. I'll see if I can eye spy a stamp or something on it to determine. And search around here for photos of Aisin and OEM water pumps to compare
bloc
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Just to be clear, aisin is one of the many OE suppliers and for parts like this they are typically Toyota’s go-to. However without an actual toyota part number you can’t be guaranteed it is actually built to toyota original spec, which could include different non-visible internal parts like bearings. In many cases it is actually cheaper to just sell the OE spec part(premium bearings and all) without the toyota number than it is to design and build a cheaper one. Things like water pumps (the aisin part I put in my 80 actually had what seemed to be the toyota number ground off) and I’d guess the fan bearing bracket are often in this category. Things like my windshield panel clearly are not.
So yes, aisin is usually good stuff and an Original Equipment Manufacturer, but to get true original quality the only -guarantee- is to have a toyota part number on it.
So yes, aisin is usually good stuff and an Original Equipment Manufacturer, but to get true original quality the only -guarantee- is to have a toyota part number on it.
I’m getting ready to do this job, and I have the fan support, idler, tensioner, and belt. I did this same basic job on my 100 series without removing the radiator. However, it looks a lot tighter on this truck. Did everyone just pull the radiator? It seems like the only way to get good access, but maybe it’s possible without removing the radiator. What say ye?
I was about to attempt this same job w/OUT removing it, trying to preserve coolant and really just not make a mess. I'll let you know if it's possible. In my case water pump, radiator and thermostat all done in last 40k miles. I was going to try @bloc 's method of pulling enough coolant down to get the top hose off and back w/ minimal spillage. Was going to try clamps on the small hoses that need to be moved out of the way to get to the fan bracket assy.
bloc
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If you aren't pulling the water pump the coolant can be collected from the radiator easily and efficiently. There is a small nipple at the drain spout and I'm not sure which size vinyl tube fits, but one of the common ones does. Even if you just have it pour into a large bucket I'm pretty sure you'll catch 99% of it, and any difference can be made up with distilled water.
Either way, you can go through all of this later if you realize there just isn't enough room.
Spot on, cleaned a 5 gal home depot bucket, under the drain spout, passenger lower corner of radiator, easy peazy. I'll filter it and pour it right back in, coolant isn't that old, maybe 40k miles ago.
Also - did NOT remove the radiator - with the fan and shroud out there's plenty of room to work, IMO. Covered it here: Alternator or tensioner... how can you tell? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/alternator-or-tensioner-how-can-you-tell.1200851/post-13637969
Just doing this. All mount bolts seemed to have some kind of either gasket or thread sealer on the tip. Did you guys put anything on the bolts before torquing them down?
bloc
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Those bolts mostly go through the front timing chain cover which is sealed to the block with RTV. I’m pretty sure what you found was just the excess that got squeezed out when the cover was bolted on.
I didn’t add any sealant and no leaks so far. IMO as long as everything is torqued to spec you won’t have any leaks there.
In process of replacing the water pump, radiator and fan bracket. There seems to be oil around the ac compressor and open to suggestions if that is consensus amoun other members or if there is another place to look for what is causing the leak in this area. 200k on this 200 and ac was working. Doing the work at my house without ability to do ac stuff (nor do I have the knowledge. ). Suggestions?
The ac pulley is wet from pulling the radiator and undoing some hoses.
The ac pulley is wet from pulling the radiator and undoing some hoses.
bloc
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Looks like the pretty standard upper timing chain cover leak. I detest oil leaks but have dealt with this for 100k because it is such a huge job to get in there and fix, for a leak that never even hits the ground in my case. Because of the effort to keep it from building up..
You could put a couple cans of degreaser over it once reassembled and knock a lot of that off. Then I just reapply the stuff every oil change or every other.
You could put a couple cans of degreaser over it once reassembled and knock a lot of that off. Then I just reapply the stuff every oil change or every other.
Anyone ever messed with the studs on the fan bracket?
I installed an Aisin bracket a few weeks ago and was finally getting ready to install the pulley and the fan clutch and found that 3 of the 4 studs seem to have the wrong thread. I decided to see if it was just a matter of poor threads and forced a nut on. When removing the nut the whole stud came out. It seems like the thread that was going into the fan bracket was the right thread.
Is stacking nuts the proper way to remove install these studs? Thinking about taking the studs out of my old bracket and attempting to install them in my new bracket.
Option B would be to attempt to “fix” it with a tap and die set.
I installed an Aisin bracket a few weeks ago and was finally getting ready to install the pulley and the fan clutch and found that 3 of the 4 studs seem to have the wrong thread. I decided to see if it was just a matter of poor threads and forced a nut on. When removing the nut the whole stud came out. It seems like the thread that was going into the fan bracket was the right thread.
Is stacking nuts the proper way to remove install these studs? Thinking about taking the studs out of my old bracket and attempting to install them in my new bracket.
Option B would be to attempt to “fix” it with a tap and die set.
Well, to close the book on this. 3 of the 4 studs had mangled threads. My hope that threading a nut on would “fix” them just ruined the nuts. Luckily I had a handful of a similar nut to play with. I took 2 studs from my old bracket and was able to repair the threads on one of the studs by chasing them with a die. Still had to remove it from the hub to chase the threads. Luckily the studs weren’t too bad to remove from the hub. The stud was threaded the same on both halves with a section that wasn’t threaded in the center.
Probably too late for you, but there are special sockets for removing studs. I have a set and they are amazing, work really well.
