Alternator or tensioner... how can you tell? (1 Viewer)

[bloc]

The curiosity got to me so I stopped and looked it up.

Both tensioner bolts are 17ft-lb. As posted 32 for the idler is correct.

If you do the fan bracket 3 bolts are smaller and 17ft-lb, the large lower bolt is 32.

All of these bolts are reusable.

In the FSM this is all under Engine/hybrid system > 3UR-FE Engine Mechanical > Engine Unit > Components

FYI the 14mm bolt in the middle of the tensioner pulley is reverse thread so you don't need to worry about it loosening when you use it to release tension on the belt.

Again due to roadtrip I have limited ability to download and edit the image showing all of it. Maybe someone else can do that.

 

[MHFJ]

The curiosity got to me so I stopped and looked it up.

Both tensioner bolts are 17ft-lb. As posted 32 for the idler is correct.

If you do the fan bracket 3 bolts are smaller and 17ft-lb, the large lower bolt is 32.

All of these bolts are reusable.

In the FSM this is all under Engine/hybrid system > 3UR-FE Engine Mechanical > Engine Unit > Components

FYI the 14mm bolt in the middle of the tensioner pulley is reverse thread so you don't need to worry about it loosening when you use it to release tension on the belt.

Again due to roadtrip I have limited ability to download and edit the image showing all of it. Maybe someone else can do that.

Thank you, and you’re right about finding the specs in the FSM. I’ve updated my post with the proper tensioner specs.

 

[grinchy]

I cruised the FSM and didn't find a single reference to the torque in the install or remove section for the tensioner. Just went with 15lbft.
<edit: see @bloc was cleverer than me at finding it. Real torque should be 17lbft>

 

[linuxgod]

FYI since I started the thread I figured I’d reply on my resolution. Issue seems to have been the tensioner, but I replaced the belt, tensioner, and idler since I had already ordered them. At 101k the belt looked fine, and the idler was still smooth. The tensioner seemed to spin freely and without resistance but if I kept my hand on it while spinning jt
I could feel a very slight rough vibration like there was some bearing wear. It’s quiet now - presumably it’ll stay that way

 

[04UZJ100]

I will update as well.....

Installed a new belt and tensioner yesterday at 95k. Belt was original and did not have any cracks or visible wear. Tensioner bearing spun freely with no noise; however, I did notice that the new one required more effort to move out of the way.

Easy job - just have to situate yourself well under the truck to reach everything. Use the center Allen bolt on a socket to lift and install the tensioner (that’s what worked for me).

Really disappointed Toyota/Lexus did not include the belt routing diagram sticker under the hood like they did for their 2UZ models......

 

[DecreedIt]

Just wrapped part 1 of this job, more on that comment in a bit. In my case I went ahead and got the fan pulley bracket and I'm glad I did, it had slight play and a bit crunchy on the spin. Also a stud had backed out, came out when removing the fan clutch, which I'm also replacing.

My tensioner was also ever so slightly noisy. Now onto the fan Pulley bracket R&R. There are some aux coolant hoses hard lines, in the way. I'd read elsewhere they didn't have to come out. That's true. Remove the top 2 10mm bracket attachments, and almost remove the bottom 10mm, you can't get it out because the AC compressor is in the way but you can back it out pretty far. It's a @#$% because it's tight in there. I jammed a screwdriver in there for leverage on the hose assy. You can slightly bend it at the lower bracket to get room for the bottom 12mm on fan bracket assy:

Also had to disconnect the hoses at the top to get enough play.

Why part 1? Well when I was pulling the belly pans, my passenger side had a stripped bolt from earlier, had to drill it. I wouldn't have removed it except for needing more visibility and possibly working the belt from the bottom. I ended up doing it mostly from above. Lucky I went ahead and drilled it because I noticed coolant on this pan, not much but some. Looked up from underneath and darn it, weeping out the bottom corner of the thermostat, dripping off the lower most nut. I didn't have one, it was done 40k ago. Ordered, pulled it, some craptastic Madco or something, gasket appears to be black oring, unsure what OEM is but I think red and square? Will find out Monday when it arrives.

Anyway hope this helps someone down the road. Tensioner and fan bracket def bad, fan bracket the worst, idler seemed fine.

I may go ahead and put the new fan clutch, fan and shroud back in tomorrow just to get ahead on Part 2, but it's tight getting at the tstat nuts with those in. Greasing the shafts too so, plenty more to play with tomorrow.

Oh and the fan clutch looks great too, just a little dirty, 176k miles!

 

[Dilspec]

Thanks everyone, very helpful.

 

[pvchaitanya]

watching this thread as I have occasional squeals when its warm. Plan to investigate and replace.
As I am doing the job, is it better to change waterpump and themostat? (I dont know if the previous owner ever did this job)