fan clutch
- Thread starter Webster
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I have to do mine as well, and I'm inclined to go with the Hayden or the Imperial simply because the Hayden seems to be more of a known quantity (thanks to Rick's hard work) and the Imperial is apparently identical except for assembly details. The Chinese clutch is an absolute unknown to me, and that would concern me even if it wasn't a Chinese product. I'm also concerned about the tales of problems with the OEM clutch, and I'm really really surprised Dan hasn't said anything one way or another about this. NTTIAWWT . . . maybe there is nothing to say about it at this time.
MSGGrunt said:
- Thread starter
- #25
Just ordered for 65.99 with free shipping form partsamerica.com
Couldn'nt get it anywhere quicker locally and they wanted more + charging for shipping
Couldn'nt get it anywhere quicker locally and they wanted more + charging for shipping
right now I'm liking my tweaked Blue over the Hayden/Imperial. With some more positive testing I think this is the way to go.
But if you need one right now I think the Hayden/Imperial is your best bet.
But if you need one right now I think the Hayden/Imperial is your best bet.
ed97fzj80 said:
I have no personal experience with any of the aformentioned aftermarket clutches and as such I am not in a position to offer an opinion about them. I am perfectly satisfied with my factory, blue-base, clutch.
D-
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I'm not experiencing any heat issues at the moment, so no immediate need for a new clutch. I'm betting it needs to be replaced though. Was going to do it as PM. I'm planning on doing the temp gauge mod real soon.landtank said:
LandCrusher'70 said:
once you get that guage fixed you might see the need a little more clearly. I think it comes down to tolerance on this issue. Some seem perfectly happy to have their trucks run up above 210*, for me I think that is too high and want something closer to 180* as my high temp mark.
landtank said:
Yep. That's exactly what I'm thinking.
landtank said:
I COMPLETELY agree. My fan clutch was bad and my temps were HIGH. Problem was the temp gauge never moved from the middle so I never suspected anything was wrong.
Like Landtank said, my temps were probably never higher than 210 - 215 in the summer, but this way too high for me, (in my opinion).
The Hayden solved my problems. ROARRRR
OK guys, now what?...
After doing the Temp. Gauge Mod., flushing, and replacing the T-Stat with an OEM unit, I decided that the fan clutch 'probably' needed a change too...
I get the Hayden unit, install it, and have since noticed that I now Don't have the start-up roar that I did have with the Aisin!
In retrospect, I just didn't realize what the sounds were supposed to sound like; now that I do, I'm wondering if my 'original' clutch was just fine, and also, if my new Hayden unit isn't! There was a small amount of some sticky oil on the outside of the Hayden when I picked it up. I protested, and they assured me that it was guaranteed, and I could replace it if it didn't work...
Another thing that strikes me is the Size of the Hayden vs. the Aisin; the Aisin is substancially larger than the Hayden. What this means though, is anyones guess...
Robert
After doing the Temp. Gauge Mod., flushing, and replacing the T-Stat with an OEM unit, I decided that the fan clutch 'probably' needed a change too...
I get the Hayden unit, install it, and have since noticed that I now Don't have the start-up roar that I did have with the Aisin!
In retrospect, I just didn't realize what the sounds were supposed to sound like; now that I do, I'm wondering if my 'original' clutch was just fine, and also, if my new Hayden unit isn't! There was a small amount of some sticky oil on the outside of the Hayden when I picked it up. I protested, and they assured me that it was guaranteed, and I could replace it if it didn't work...
Another thing that strikes me is the Size of the Hayden vs. the Aisin; the Aisin is substancially larger than the Hayden. What this means though, is anyones guess...
Robert
dgangle
total rice
I was told by Charlie Thurman at Superior Radiator in MI that when at temperature, if you shut the engine off at idle and the fan rotates more than 2X, then the clutch fan is bad. This has worked for me in the past. Not vey scientific and subject to debate, I'm sure.
- Thread starter
- #35
There is something to think about.
Hmmm.........
Listening to the wife complain or leaving the bad fan on and planning on some alone time in the shop repairing the overheated cruiser.
Tough decision
Hmmm.........
Listening to the wife complain or leaving the bad fan on and planning on some alone time in the shop repairing the overheated cruiser.
Tough decision
From what I can see the blue clutch is designed to come on gradually as the need for cooling increases so does the drive. So with the exception of startup, you won't hear a roar when it's on. My problem was that it was coming on late. So as the cooling demand increased the clutch followed but was behind the need and therefore allowed the truck to get hot. Now that I've advanced the timing of the clutch the truck maintains proper operating temps and there is still no roar as the clutch is engaged just enough to maintain the temp.
I feel the issues with the blue clutch is strictly a calibration issue and nothing more. And a properly calibrated blue will be the best option for cooling, power and MPG that anyone could get on one of these trucks.
I feel the issues with the blue clutch is strictly a calibration issue and nothing more. And a properly calibrated blue will be the best option for cooling, power and MPG that anyone could get on one of these trucks.
So is this a goof on Toyota's part? I can't see the reason the Blue hub would've been designed this way.landtank said:
landtank said:
Rick:
I've read your methodology with great interest. My concern is that your technique has effectively raised the rpm of a given fan. As I found out the hard way, over ~4500>redline, this absolute fan rpm becomes a recipe for fans eating radiators. A less viscous fluid would do two things IMO, come on sooner (good) and increase absolute fan rpm (bad or ugly or worse). Thoughts?
I've pretty much come to the conclusion that runs to redline on these trucks and overall reduction in heat would be best accomplished with electric fans. You lose a lot of nose cone weight and balance issues (more with SC spacers in), you can over ride the fans to 'off' when "water crossing", you can pick a variety of fan speeds, CFM, sizes, number, and many turbo cars have some impressive fans with circuits (I had the tape measure on a turbo volvo one just this afternoon). Summit actually carries some pretty impressive 5600cfm dual fan units that use a progressive speed thermostat, and smart relay control that has over ride for Fan on-A/C, Fan on-override, Fan off-override, and LED status.
So 'best option' might need to include 'for an engine driven fan', but I'm convinced electrics can add more flexibility with a lot of benefits I just don't see with hte engine driven fan as I move my supercharged 80 toward redline.
Your thoughts?
Scott Justusson
LandCrusher'70 said:
I don't think this is a goof and I believe it to be a great improvement on the older design as well as the Imperial/Hayden.
A clutch that would come on with a roar and then shut off would give you cyclic temperature variations as the cooling would be full on then nothing or very little.
With what I'm seeing with the blue, it is designed for a steady sustained amount of drive that varies with cooling demand that would be just enough to maintain a constant temp. This sustained constant drive will yield an engine that would be more efficient as the ECU wouldn't be chasing temperature variations and be able to dial everything in quite well.
What I saw when I got the engine's temp under control after my long heated drive that first weekend was an engine idling at 800rpms. It took several drive cycles for the ECU to correct this as it was using the maps from that heated drive the weekend before.
