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I bet if you sold off all the stuff in your rear axle it would be enough funding for the 14 bolt project.
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- Thread starter
- #1,542
Yes I agree, I'm planning on the rear axle covering the cost of the swap plus some but I probably won't put it on the market until after the swap since I use this as a DD. This cruiser axle will have good polys, a rear disc brake conversion with braided lines, an aussie locker, 4.10s, and an anti wrap bar mount. I may even shave the drain plug while it's apart right now. So that should fetch a decent price. It looks like I can get the 14bolt swapped in, depending on the driveshaft configuration for 4-$500. This includes a RDB conversion too.
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yeah, forgot about the DD part of it.
The poly rear axles I had under the truggy were doing the same thing after only MAYBE 500 trail only miles, and the passenger side snapped clean in half in the dead middle and the long side twisted the splines a full spline over making it nearly impossible to remove.
I did not replace them, and will likely not purchase them for the other truck now. the truggy is gonna get a 14B and Im thinking probably the same for the other someday.
I did not replace them, and will likely not purchase them for the other truck now. the truggy is gonna get a 14B and Im thinking probably the same for the other someday.
bummer on getting kicked in the nuts. looks painfull. shoot me a line when you get a chance and when this is going back together give me a heads up so I can help.
Clint
Clint
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I think the other hang up is swapping to 8 lug wheels or cutting the old wheel centers.
- Thread starter
- #1,548
All I've got is the axle so to swap it under I'd need/want calipers, brackets, rotors, perches, ubolts, spring plates (ruffstuff has a neat kit I was looking at, both their basic and full kits for other stuff like a diff cover). I'll cut new antiwrap brackets to match my current setup, cut off old perches and shock mounts, and I'll need to offset the diff by cutting the tubes and swapping sides, and do a lip shave on the bottom of the housing. I might have to run it open for now until I decide on the options for locking it. Any donations would be happily accepted.
I'm planning on running 8-lug so I'll convert the front (the adapter will need to be opened a little to fit over the hub) to 8-lug which means I'll be changing out my rims to something else. I've already got plans but it's the funding part slowing me down. Selling stuff will help but I'll have to buy stuff first and then sell afterwards. I'm not sure I'm ready to step up to a D60 up front (since I'd probably be interested in linking the front at that time and I want to see how yours turns out) so I'll stick with the cruiser front end a little longer.
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are you not interested in turning the hubs down and making the 14B a 6 lug?
- Thread starter
- #1,550
I was at first but 8-lug will set me up to swap in a 1ton up front for future scalability. I wouldn't have to do another tire/rim combo and the 17's I'm interested in will have more tire options in the size I want which is important to me since I pound the pavement with this.
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so you want to run discs in the 14b? i know u use this truck as a DD. if you do discs do you have preferences for ebrake? you have such a heavy rig. i spent a lot of time and money on the disc conversion from ruffstuff but i could have done fine with the drums and wouldn't have saved much weight. and i dont have an ebrake now. do you still have the drums on the 14b?
i have a torchmate 2x4 table on the way. my plasma set up may allow me to cut 3/8" plate but ill have to see.
i have a torchmate 2x4 table on the way. my plasma set up may allow me to cut 3/8" plate but ill have to see.
- Thread starter
- #1,552
Yes I still have the drums on the 14bolt. On my cruiser axle right now I don't have an ebrake (using a mech. line lock) so I'm use to not having one. So yes I still want to go with discs in the rear. The C&C 14bolt is set up to run duals out back and that drum assembly is huge and sits inboard. I guess the ribs on the drums could give me some extra traction in the mud, but aesthetically running only singles on it might look kind of ugly IMO. Discs are just more sexy.
you can also turn down a D60 front to 6 lug if you wanted to. but I see where you are coming from and why.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I still have my stock SF axles in the back .. mines aren't leaking at all so I wich ( knoking wood ) that mines are the good ones .. and wish they hold enought to make plans for a 80 series rear FF axle upgrade ..
- Thread starter
- #1,555
update
Just waiting for parts so I was planning on getting everything prepped and cleaned for when they show up but I got sidetracked working on my brother's car most of my time off plus I was under the weather. I did get a couple of hours yesterday to relax with Dora so I started in on the front brakes.
Here are my old pads. I think these were the pads that came with the 4runner calipers that I got out of the JY.
I picked up some EBC greenstuff 6000 pads that I've been interested in trying out.
They have a brake-in coating on them that is suppose to prep the rotor for bed-in. The instructions say to do mild braking for the first 50 miles, then after that I can do the series of 60-20mph stops to bed in the pads to the rotors. They say true performance starts after 1000 miles.
Both backing plates looked like the pad on the left but if you notice the pic of my old pads that the backing plates (top is the inner pad) are different. I had to cut off the protrusions on the new pads so they'd seat all the way down in the inner position due to the shape of the knuckle where the calipers mount to it.
I sanded my rotors since they were in good shape and slipped the pads into their home. I cycled the steering to check the length of my braided lines and I found out these are too short so I'll take them back and swap them for ones a little longer. I have to go back to them anyways so I can get some new adapters for the master cylinder to mate to the hard lines I'm running so I'll swap these at the same time.
These are the rear pads I'm going to replace too. The fiction material is starting to crack away from the backing and they're about a year old. They were cheap pads but I am going to replace them with cheap pads. To aid in my brake bias since I'm not running a proportioning valve right now I am going to run stronger gripping pads up front and less gripping ones out back. If that's not enough bias for me I'll plan for a proportioning valve.
I was also able to knock out the old wheel bearings on the rear axle. Those were the original bearings and they still looked to be in decent condition. They weren't after I got done with them though. I used a long piece of metal scrap I had laying around and pounded them out from the other side running the metal through the axle housing. A better piece of scrap would have made it easier but the bearings came out regardless.
I sprayed a can of cleaner down the passenger side and diff housing section and could see metal flakes as I wiped it up. Still have the driver side to do and then I'll blow it out. Still planning on shaving off the drain plug and replacing the lowest stud on the rear with a bolt for a drain just as others on this forum have done.
Just waiting for parts so I was planning on getting everything prepped and cleaned for when they show up but I got sidetracked working on my brother's car most of my time off plus I was under the weather. I did get a couple of hours yesterday to relax with Dora so I started in on the front brakes.
Here are my old pads. I think these were the pads that came with the 4runner calipers that I got out of the JY.
I picked up some EBC greenstuff 6000 pads that I've been interested in trying out.
They have a brake-in coating on them that is suppose to prep the rotor for bed-in. The instructions say to do mild braking for the first 50 miles, then after that I can do the series of 60-20mph stops to bed in the pads to the rotors. They say true performance starts after 1000 miles.
Both backing plates looked like the pad on the left but if you notice the pic of my old pads that the backing plates (top is the inner pad) are different. I had to cut off the protrusions on the new pads so they'd seat all the way down in the inner position due to the shape of the knuckle where the calipers mount to it.
I sanded my rotors since they were in good shape and slipped the pads into their home. I cycled the steering to check the length of my braided lines and I found out these are too short so I'll take them back and swap them for ones a little longer. I have to go back to them anyways so I can get some new adapters for the master cylinder to mate to the hard lines I'm running so I'll swap these at the same time.
These are the rear pads I'm going to replace too. The fiction material is starting to crack away from the backing and they're about a year old. They were cheap pads but I am going to replace them with cheap pads. To aid in my brake bias since I'm not running a proportioning valve right now I am going to run stronger gripping pads up front and less gripping ones out back. If that's not enough bias for me I'll plan for a proportioning valve.
I was also able to knock out the old wheel bearings on the rear axle. Those were the original bearings and they still looked to be in decent condition. They weren't after I got done with them though. I used a long piece of metal scrap I had laying around and pounded them out from the other side running the metal through the axle housing. A better piece of scrap would have made it easier but the bearings came out regardless.
I sprayed a can of cleaner down the passenger side and diff housing section and could see metal flakes as I wiped it up. Still have the driver side to do and then I'll blow it out. Still planning on shaving off the drain plug and replacing the lowest stud on the rear with a bolt for a drain just as others on this forum have done.
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I might have missed it, but they WILL warranty those axles, right????
GRIPPING story!!!
- Thread starter
- #1,558
I've been driving her but haven't got any pics ready for an update so here's the spoiler. Yes, they did warranty the axles and I actually got them just in time to get Dora back on the road for this work week.
- Thread starter
- #1,559
Update
Kurt from Poly performance who handled my warranty claim was at KOH so he didn't get my axles shipped out until last Monday. Shipping to and from PP has been on their dime.
I continued getting other stuff ready like new fittings for the Master Cylinder and re-flared the lines to get the front circuit mated to the front brake lines. I exchanged my 3 ~AN braided lines for longer ones for the front calipers so they wouldn't bind when turning. Bench bled the MC and got the front circuit hooked up and bled (I kept my bleed line in for the rear circuit hooked up so I could pump the MC with it bolted in). Then I got sick for a day so I did nothing. And then the next day the tracking showed that my axles should be showing up. Not knowing what time they'd be here I was feeling well enough so I got started by shaving off the rear drain plug.
The plug is basically a threaded insert that gets welded to the housing. There is a factory hole punched in the housing that you can see from the inside.
I just cut off the head with a cut-off wheel and then started grinding what was left down to the housing. I was able to tap it out from the inside to break it free.
I cut a patch out with the angle grinder.
I made it snug so that I could tap it in and it stayed in place. Then I double passed the bottom, ground it down and smoothed it out with a flapper wheel. I double passed from the inside of the housing and cleaned up the splatter but did not grind that side.
Since everything was out of the axle it really didn't take very long. The bottom plug has a magnet (replace it as the fill plug) on it that I was loosing so instead I grabbed a magnet that I took out of broken microwave and put that inside on the bottom of the housing. Even if it were to slide there is clearance for it to go underneath the ring gear so it won't contact anything. It's quite a bit more powerful so it'll definitely catch any metal flakes possible left.
I ordered some axle bearings from autozone along with pads for the rear and another reseal kit for my steering box that showed up last week. My steering box is leaking quite a bit now and I'm going to give it one more shot, if it leaks again I'll have to pony up and pay for someone else to rebuild it. I took the race from one of the bearings I punched out and took some material off the OD to turn it into my bearing and seal driver.
I was pleasantly surprised to find they were actually Koyo bearings in a Timken box.
Finished cleaning the housing, knocked in my bearings and seals and had lunch. Conveniently the brown truck with a great sounding engine (newer brother to my 4bt) pulled up and dropped off my axles. I took those out to the shop and get the rotors, studs and spacers put together.
Nice to have a good bearing surface again and it at least looks heat treated as seen by the coloring on the flange.
Diff with new seals went in and I replaced the two lowest studs on the front and back of the housing with bolts for drainage. Axles and locker back in, rear brakes hooked up and bled, and nut popping heavy tires hoisted back on. Filling the diff with hypoid took forever but I finally got it dribbling out of the fill hole. Decided to run 85W-140.
Had a meeting to go to so I quickly got ready and took my test drive to the meeting. I'm going easy on the brakes for break-in procedures before I can get to a empty stretch and do some 60-20mph stops. Of course with functioning calipers they already felt much better and having driven it to work for a couple of days I can tell the brakes are going to be better than ever. Still get some vibs from the rear and I still have a loose TRE on the front so I'm not quite ready for any autocross but it's sure nice to have this stinky diesel back on the road. My wife now knows when I'm home.
Sadly with all this work I'm now ready to start working on the 14bolt and get that going. Hoping for an install by June.
I'm hoping to get my other 3 lbs package I got this week installed next week. Looking forward to that one.
Kurt from Poly performance who handled my warranty claim was at KOH so he didn't get my axles shipped out until last Monday. Shipping to and from PP has been on their dime.
I continued getting other stuff ready like new fittings for the Master Cylinder and re-flared the lines to get the front circuit mated to the front brake lines. I exchanged my 3 ~AN braided lines for longer ones for the front calipers so they wouldn't bind when turning. Bench bled the MC and got the front circuit hooked up and bled (I kept my bleed line in for the rear circuit hooked up so I could pump the MC with it bolted in). Then I got sick for a day so I did nothing. And then the next day the tracking showed that my axles should be showing up. Not knowing what time they'd be here I was feeling well enough so I got started by shaving off the rear drain plug.
The plug is basically a threaded insert that gets welded to the housing. There is a factory hole punched in the housing that you can see from the inside.
I just cut off the head with a cut-off wheel and then started grinding what was left down to the housing. I was able to tap it out from the inside to break it free.
I cut a patch out with the angle grinder.
I made it snug so that I could tap it in and it stayed in place. Then I double passed the bottom, ground it down and smoothed it out with a flapper wheel. I double passed from the inside of the housing and cleaned up the splatter but did not grind that side.
Since everything was out of the axle it really didn't take very long. The bottom plug has a magnet (replace it as the fill plug) on it that I was loosing so instead I grabbed a magnet that I took out of broken microwave and put that inside on the bottom of the housing. Even if it were to slide there is clearance for it to go underneath the ring gear so it won't contact anything. It's quite a bit more powerful so it'll definitely catch any metal flakes possible left.
I ordered some axle bearings from autozone along with pads for the rear and another reseal kit for my steering box that showed up last week. My steering box is leaking quite a bit now and I'm going to give it one more shot, if it leaks again I'll have to pony up and pay for someone else to rebuild it. I took the race from one of the bearings I punched out and took some material off the OD to turn it into my bearing and seal driver.
I was pleasantly surprised to find they were actually Koyo bearings in a Timken box.
Finished cleaning the housing, knocked in my bearings and seals and had lunch. Conveniently the brown truck with a great sounding engine (newer brother to my 4bt) pulled up and dropped off my axles. I took those out to the shop and get the rotors, studs and spacers put together.
Nice to have a good bearing surface again and it at least looks heat treated as seen by the coloring on the flange.
Diff with new seals went in and I replaced the two lowest studs on the front and back of the housing with bolts for drainage. Axles and locker back in, rear brakes hooked up and bled, and nut popping heavy tires hoisted back on. Filling the diff with hypoid took forever but I finally got it dribbling out of the fill hole. Decided to run 85W-140.
Had a meeting to go to so I quickly got ready and took my test drive to the meeting. I'm going easy on the brakes for break-in procedures before I can get to a empty stretch and do some 60-20mph stops. Of course with functioning calipers they already felt much better and having driven it to work for a couple of days I can tell the brakes are going to be better than ever. Still get some vibs from the rear and I still have a loose TRE on the front so I'm not quite ready for any autocross but it's sure nice to have this stinky diesel back on the road. My wife now knows when I'm home.
Sadly with all this work I'm now ready to start working on the 14bolt and get that going. Hoping for an install by June.
I'm hoping to get my other 3 lbs package I got this week installed next week. Looking forward to that one.
Last edited:
- Joined
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- www.cascadecruisers.com
Sweet. Are you still going to the metal tech open house?
Sent from my DROIDX
Sent from my DROIDX