Builds Family haulin' (6 Viewers)

[boots4]

After soaking the turbo for several weeks I decided to hit it a little harder with the hammer and still got no movement. For fun I thought to hit it to try and spin it rather than hit it off. This time it did move and I was able to get the turbine housing off. I had to take the compressor wheel and backing plate off in order to do this. Here's my mess of parts.

Just the turbine housing.

This is the kit I bought from http://www.htturbo.com

The compressor wheel is off, the compressor backing plate is off and this is the inside of the turbo. I tapped out the shaft to get to the bushings. The bushings are held in place by snap-rings.

Pulling the bushing out. Under the bushing is another snap-ring so the bushing is sandwiched by snap-rings. The kit comes with two bushings and 4 snap-rings for replacement.

I coated the bushings with motor oil before I put them back in.

The new bushing is now in place. Once I got this side done I flipped it over and did the same for the other side.

Next I put the oil seal on the shaft and started to tap it in. It gave more resistance than what felt right and when I looked at it the oil seal did not get in the hole and bent. The old seal was grooved and probably the main reason to rebuild this turbo so I can't reuse it. Now I'm trying to hunt down just that part instead of having to buy another rebuild kit just for that seal. Didn't get anywhere last week so I painted the turbo housing and the turbine housing and stopped there with the turbo.

Still lots of other stuff to do so I drilled my exhaust manifold for my pyrometer. The reading will be higher right before the turbo inlet but more accurate IMO.

 

[boots4]

I got my gauges (autometer sport comp series) and gauge pod from http://www.egauges.com This will mount on top of the dash above the center vents.

Taped the instrument panel for painting.

I didn't think I could match the dash color very well so I decided to paint them the same way for a theme. I've painted the vents outside the same and might paint some other stuff inside the same way.

I'm using the hammerite rustoleum stuff. I think it will turn out alright once it's all together.

Thought about where to put the sender unit for the tranny temp gauge and read about people putting it in the pressure testing port (bolt head in the center of the pic)

I tested the depth to make sure I wasn't going to run into anything and I had plenty of clearance. It threaded right in like it was ment to be there.

This has been done on here and it's pretty cheap to update the lighting inside the cruiser. Except for the vent controls (light isn't working and I'll troubleshoot that some other time) I'm converting everything to LEDs. All instrumentation and dome lighting will now be LEDs. When deciding on which gauges to get I decided against the "through the dial" lighting (sport comp II) because I think those gauges would stick out too much compared to the tired lighting from the factory. Plus the factory is the reflective style and not through the dial. So, figuring the new gauges will still be brighter I decided to get LED bulbs for the factory gauges and the new gauges I bought. I'm hoping this will help even things out a little and the new gauges won't be too bright at night. I chose the "cool white" color. It they look anything like the LED night lights we have in the house I think I'm going to like them. If the color is too bright I can always try a different color. The bulbs aren't spendy at all.

This is for the water temp gauge that came from the stepvan. I grabbed a 4-LED bulb for it.

The 6-LED wedge bulb will go in the speedo, tach, levels, and new gauges.

The single wide angle wedges will go in the turn signals, 4WD, seat belt, etc. This is a blue bulb that will go in the High beam indicator. They said to grab the bulb in the color you need to display so that the light isn't filtered out making it dim.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Well done, man! This guy has a new baby and is still bustin his butt on his project... What's Mace's excuse!

 

[GreasedPiggy]

Hey!!! you got the turbo apart!!!

Some of those things are just absolutely WELDED, it seems.

Congrats! Keep the build info coming...

 

[boots4]

Got more stuff done that I didn't get a chance to post yesterday.

The 4x4 adapter off of the 4L80e was hitting the tops of the allen head bolts on the 203 doubler. I thought I'd go get some other screws with a lower profile head and then figured if I planned on replacing them anyways it wasn't going to hurt if I ground the top of the heads to see if the adapter would fit. I got out the grinder, was careful and now it fits. If I ever need to get into the 203 behind that bearing retainer I can replace the screws then. Even if I get the same kind and grind again it won't cost much.

I also took 1/4 inch off the output shaft on the tranny and smoothed off the edge.

Picked up an early FJ60 front drvie shaft for the DC joint. The bolt patterns are different and if I cannot adapt my yokes I'll just redrill the flanges on the TC and pinion. I'll take these two front shafts to a shop and have them make me one with more slip spline for the SR. Thanks to the doubler there is plenty of room for that front shaft.

The adapter fits flush against the 203 now.

Full shot

I hope this doesn't come back to bite me but I decided to drill the pattern on the 203 for the new holes to mount it to the 4x4 adapter off of the 4L80e. It was clearing the driveshaft well so that's what I used as my determinant. Once I got it where I wanted it I traced it. Then I took the 4x4 adapter off the tranny and marked the holes by using the holes as a guide for a drill bit the same size of the holes. This got me the center of the hole and then I just drilled the size hole I needed for the bolts I'll use (new grade 8's). I got to four holes easy but the adapter blocked the last two so I going to find a new gasket that was on there and use that or make a jig and find the centers of the last two holes to drill.

I filled the other existing holes with set screws and used RTV to seal the threads (basically what MACE suggested).

The tranny shop was closed saturday so I jumped on to the next thing and removed the interior for floor coating. This is after I cleaned up some PO spills and a few food items from my 2 yr old.

This is actually what I was after was cleaning the tunnel for coating, but not knowing how much coverage I was going to get and knowing I was going to use the same thing inside the cab I figured I'd get it ready if I had more product in the bottle. I pressure washed and then hand washed the tunnel with degreaser to prep for a good bond.

With my little husky air compressor (not strong enough) and my spray gun of Spectrum sound deadener I started to spray. I pretty much had the compressor running the whole time and would get 4-5 passes, wait for 20 seconds and repeat. I might borrow a friends compressor to finish off. Anyways this is Spectrum in the liquid form and it is pretty thick stuff, they have stuff called sludge that's eveh thicker! The spray gun has a 1/4 inch opening and is messy to apply. The stuff washes off with soap and water until it cures so clean up was easy. I'm using this stuff for it's sound qualities and over the top of this I will be spraying a product called Spectrum Firewall for it's heat properties. The Firewall product looks like it's white so the engine bay will return to being white. It took less than a quart of product to coat the entire tunnel and firewall.

Since I had more in the bottle I started spraying inside. I filled up the bottle to half full and this is where it got me. I bought a gallon so I know I'll be able to finish the rest of the floor, out to the tailgate, with at least one layer. The color came out exactly what I wanted and is pretty close to the dash color so I'm thinking of getting another gallon and putting it inside. I don't know how durable it will be but it should be quiet. This should deaden better than bedliner and I'll run some rubber floormats for the traffic areas.

I'm not sure how much warmer weather we're going to get so I thought I should get this done before fall get here. I'll have to get pics of my gauges next time.

 

[boots4]

Well done, man! This guy has a new baby and is still bustin his butt on his project... What's Mace's excuse!

Thanks, I'm sad I won't make it to a couple of the meetings since my work week will land on those thursdays now (fifth week in the month throws it off). I never did get to check out your 80.

 

[boots4]

Hey!!! you got the turbo apart!!!

Some of those things are just absolutely WELDED, it seems.

Congrats! Keep the build info coming...

Did you get all your parts yet for your turbo rebuild? It really was pretty straight forward. Once I'm actually done with it I thought I'd share that on the 4btswaps board. For me, hitting it to spin it helped free it up and putting it in a vice to hold it solid.

 

[too tall]

lookin' great keep the pics comin'.

 

[redcorn]

lookin' great keep the pics comin'.

X 2


Awesome work and you must have a great wife to let you out to wrench

to your wife!!

john

 

[boots4]

X 2


Awesome work and you must have a great wife to let you out to wrench

to your wife!!

john

Thanks, I'll make sure she reads this!

 

[GreasedPiggy]

Did you get all your parts yet for your turbo rebuild? It really was pretty straight forward. Once I'm actually done with it I thought I'd share that on the 4btswaps board. For me, hitting it to spin it helped free it up and putting it in a vice to hold it solid.

Great method. Sometimes they are so tough to get apart.

Yes, I've got a turbo kit and also the twin port gasket for the manifold-to-turbine connection. Haven't started any building.

I have a couple of engineer buddies whom I told about the 4BT
and they really got into it. One is a VP at Garret and the other
owns a Turbo shop.

Knowing that I intend to stay with the Holset, they have been working on a new design for the Exhaust manifold. They are
absolutely sure there is some "free horsepower and torque"
there. So I plan to share that on the Swaps forum if it all
pans out.

Look forward to the turbo rebuild on 4btswaps!

 

[boots4]

Knowing that I intend to stay with the Holset, they have been working on a new design for the Exhaust manifold. They are
absolutely sure there is some "free horsepower and torque"
there. So I plan to share that on the Swaps forum if it all
pans out.

Look forward to hearing about that!

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Lookin good, Boots. BTW- (Just in case this hasn't been brought up) Did you realize that Holset uses Garrett flanges on the exhaust side of the turbo? In other words, you can bolt up a Garrett T3 or T4, depending on the flange. (I think yours is a T3 flange.) I see that you are rebuilding the Holset, so it doesn't really matter, but it might be good for future referance as Garrett turbos are the most commenly modified. Therefore you can build them however you would like.

 

[Tapage]

Huge GT28

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Huge GT28

That's not a Garrett... (But nice try! )

 

[boots4]

Lookin good, Boots. BTW- (Just in case this hasn't been brought up) Did you realize that Holset uses Garrett flanges on the exhaust side of the turbo? In other words, you can bolt up a Garrett T3 or T4, depending on the flange. (I think yours is a T3 flange.) I see that you are rebuilding the Holset, so it doesn't really matter, but it might be good for future referance as Garrett turbos are the most commenly modified. Therefore you can build them however you would like.

The holset has a divider in the middle for the exhaust pulse to keep the turbo spinning a little more smoothly (cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 exhaust manifold are paired together) and after a quick search I didn't see a T-3 having that divider. I wonder how much of an impact that would have, maybe a little less efficient or if it would lead to something worse at high boost. I'm still an infant on my turbo knowledge. Just wondering out loud.

 

[GreasedPiggy]

Your H1C is a twin scroll, so it already has a good efficiency over any non-twin scroll. The difference is not only in the port but the internal design of the turbine.

You can get some advantages from improving the exhaust manifold, paying attention to the lengths of the runners.

The volume of the turbine can be decreased by swapping out the stock one but both higher rpm performance and possibly fuel economy will be hurt.

 

[Captain23]

Lookin spanky!

 

[boots4]

weekly update

Saturday was spent helping down a 60 foot tree with massive ivy growing up it. It looks like we have at least 2 more saturdays worth of work on that tree to go before it can come down completely so that will step into some cruiser time. I get the wood and it's always nice to be warm in the winter so I don't mind helping. All the other time I had I spent wrenching.

This showed up on friday so i was able to get some work done on my turbo. It's not completely together but pretty close. Inside that big box was this little package that had the oil seal that I needed.

On top is the new seal. Bottom left is the seal that I munched and on the bottom right is the old seal. You can see the groove in the old seal and why I couldn't reuse it. Again this is probably the main reason to install the rebuild kit in the turbo since the other parts looked alright. In the long run in this case it was much easier to work on the turbo by taking the exhaust manifold off and separating it than trying to drop it off with the manifold still bolted to the engine.

Got the shaft with the new oil seal in safely this time.

Got it back together on the exhaust manifold. I ended up replacing the studs on the manifold connecting to the turbo. I found the right thread but not length so I had to cut the studs to fit and torqued them down with the two-nut technique. This is the backside with a good view of the wastegate actuator.

Here's the side you'll see in the engine bay. I have some rust spots already coming through on the manifold. The right way would have been to get it media blasted before coating but it's not that important since I figure the paint will be good for the first couple of pics before it get's burn off. I figure I'll get a mud coating for protection once I get it to the trails anyways. I still have to put on the compressor wheel and housing.

Here's the port for the pyrometer probe. Is there a product to use to lock those threads in there? Or just double nut it and use a special washer (the gauge kit includes the special washer)

I picked up a front seal and this v-belt pulley from the cummins part place. It stacks on top of this other pulley and I plan to use it to run my FJ60 AC. I'll have to make brackets to mount it and might not worry about it until next spring since it seem like summer left last week.

I slid the rear axle under the springs and bolted it on loosely for mock up once I get the angle from the back of the tranny.

I cut the spring mounts off the backing plates and drilled out the centering holes to match the spring perches. They give me the option to move the axle and inch forward or backwards and that needed to be dublicated on the backing plates. I'll start with them in the centered position since I already moved the axle back a couple of inches.

I decided not to wait for my friend who has a tap and die set and just bought the tap I needed for my 203 GRB. I marked the other two holes I needed to drill and drilled. I now have a 4L80e 4x4 adapter pattern on my 203.

After I tapped them I test fitted the adapter to see if I got it right.

It fit so I pulled it off and put on the gasket. The parts guy said there were three TCs behind the 4L80e that I have so I choose this one thinking it looked about right. And it was "about" right. The holes mostly lined up so I used some RTV to help seal.

I will put in the drivetrain in two pieces, the engine/tranny, and the doubler/TC. Since the holes on the tranny to adapter match up perfectly I figured it would be better to put them together with those set of holes rather than the ones I just drilled and tapped. With that plan I bolted the adapter to the 203.

I've got some more to post after lunch.

 

[Mace]

Exactly what I did (a couple of times before I was happy BTW)