- Thread starter
- #181
I should have more accurate pics of where the motor sits in relation to the frame this weekend when I work on the frame side mounts. I'm in it 5 months so far. Lets see your build!!
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I should have more accurate pics of where the motor sits in relation to the frame this weekend when I work on the frame side mounts. I'm in it 5 months so far. Lets see your build!!
kling-on
Kool Arrow
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
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- 5,503
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- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
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all I can say is WOW 
- Thread starter
- #183
Yeah it's not on all the way but I didn't force anything and it's not hooked up to the flywheel. The tolerances on my instruction sheet were tighter than 1/2" and it talked about shimming if it had to be pulled to the flywheel too far. It didn't talk about the rotate and push technique. I don't plan on running it as is and will separate the tranny/engine to put it in correctly. I'll have to try that technique.
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Actually not .. you place a electro termo switch that activate the fans at desired temp .. quite easy. My question about cooling come from the Intercooler idea .. that it's one more " thing " in the air way to the factory rad ..
I can't figure how much cooling need a 4BT but since it's a turbo diesel could be more cooling requirements ..
- Thread starter
- #185
Now I follow you. The other local 4bt FJ60 hasn't had any issues with cooling using his factory radiator, granted he isn't running an intercooler. From everything I've read about other 4bt swaps I feel comfortable using the factory radiator. I do have a mechanical water temp gauge I'll use along with the dash gauge but will probably have to wait until next summer to really test it since it's already cooling down up here.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Good point .. I'm always thinking all have the same temp issues as we have down here in Panamá
Man, I miss a few days on your build and look how much stuff happens!!!
Really appreciate the exhaust routing photos, since my former motor is an I6 too, I am considering what you did. I was thinking of using some of that exhaust wrap stuff, since my idea of metal heat shielding would not lower the total under-hood temps. The wrap lowers pipe temps and diverts the heat downstream.
Those mounts are real artwork!
Gusseting looks really good. It may be the angle of the photo but there is a potential stress riser at the aft edge of the notch for the turbo lube return... ...probably nothing, just my eyes.
Your build is really looking great, I'm learning a lot about what to expect. Now considering a different tranny...
Really appreciate the exhaust routing photos, since my former motor is an I6 too, I am considering what you did. I was thinking of using some of that exhaust wrap stuff, since my idea of metal heat shielding would not lower the total under-hood temps. The wrap lowers pipe temps and diverts the heat downstream.
Those mounts are real artwork!
Gusseting looks really good. It may be the angle of the photo but there is a potential stress riser at the aft edge of the notch for the turbo lube return... ...probably nothing, just my eyes.Your build is really looking great, I'm learning a lot about what to expect. Now considering a different tranny...
- Thread starter
- #188
Wow, no pics on this page yet, I can fix that!
I had a great friday and then a slow saturday so i guess it evened out. I kept passing by the old pair of mounts that I cut off the frame and started to wonder how those would work out. The angle was wrong but that was easily fixed with some measurements and a cut-off wheel. With the engine in the bay where I wanted I figured out the position of the mounts. I pulled the engine and tacked them on.
Driver
Passenger
Put the engine back in to see where the studs would hit and marked them on the mounts so that the engine can slide down.
Driver
Passenger
Pulled the engine back out and cut out the slots. I also cut out some gussets and welded it all together. I put the gussets downward so water wouldn't have a place to sit and rust.
Driver
Passenger, the motor mounts stud's are offset so that's why this side's slot is in a different spot than the other side. Both frame mounts are at the same spot on their side of the frame.
Finished, I'll paint them before I put the engine in for good.
Wheeled the engine back into the bay and fit it on the mounts. Weight of the engine is on the mounts with the tranny supported by a rachet strap underneath it wrapped around the frame (mock tranny mount). Slid in good and I have clearance on the firewall to the downpipe off of the turbo.
Driver
Passenger, I'll either cut off the bottom of the frame mount or wrap it under the frame with some more gussets.
Height of the 4bt in the bay. That's the hood line and I might rub on the liner in which case I can just trim some out.
I picked up these 4L80e 4x4 tranny mounts and that ended friday. On saturday I dove into the tranny crossmember. These mounts looked like they's absorb vibration well... but ended up being too deep to fit inbetween the tranny and doubler. I found this out after fabbing up my crossmember. I'm going to need something with less beer gut so I took these back to napa and searched through their picture book. I found some I thought might work but none had diamensions and they didn't have them in stock. I'm going to check with the tranny shop that I bought my shift kit from and see what they have before calling the manufacture of the mounts I was looking at to get the diamensions.
Once I figured out those mounts weren't going to work I also realized that I didn't think about clearing the front driveshaft. I didn't finish the crossmember so I'll get that incorporated too. Just some more cutting and welding.
This is my Art Carr shifter. Since I was going to be shifting this like a stick I wanted something that could stand up to that on a daily basis. This has nice big numbers that will be easy to see to know what gear I'm in while driving. 4th will be my overdrive. For now I will leave the gates and see how I like it instead of cutting them out for the 1st to Rev. throw.
It came with the mounting console that I wasn't planning on so that was a nice suprise. There is a nice little shelf below 1st that I think I'll mount my switch for my lock-up on the torque converter.
Being stuck without tranny mounts I moved on and started putting the second coating of spectrum inside. I also did some test fitting of the stepvan gas tank. Once I got to looking at it I needed to know how many gallons it was to see if it really was going to be worth the time to mount it. I had never filled the old cruiser tank more that 17 gallons but research says it is a 23 gallon tank (I guess E didn't really mean empty on the gauge) and the stepvan's tank is only 30 gallons. If I were to drive conservative and got 25MPG I'd gain 170ish mile range with the 30 gal tank. With the cruiser tank I'll still get close to 600 miles so I decided the time wasn't worth mounting the stepvan tank. Maybe I'll come back to it later but for now I'll just put the old tank back in and deal with a 500 mile range.
I had a great friday and then a slow saturday so i guess it evened out. I kept passing by the old pair of mounts that I cut off the frame and started to wonder how those would work out. The angle was wrong but that was easily fixed with some measurements and a cut-off wheel. With the engine in the bay where I wanted I figured out the position of the mounts. I pulled the engine and tacked them on.
Driver
Passenger
Put the engine back in to see where the studs would hit and marked them on the mounts so that the engine can slide down.
Driver
Passenger
Pulled the engine back out and cut out the slots. I also cut out some gussets and welded it all together. I put the gussets downward so water wouldn't have a place to sit and rust.
Driver
Passenger, the motor mounts stud's are offset so that's why this side's slot is in a different spot than the other side. Both frame mounts are at the same spot on their side of the frame.
Finished, I'll paint them before I put the engine in for good.
Wheeled the engine back into the bay and fit it on the mounts. Weight of the engine is on the mounts with the tranny supported by a rachet strap underneath it wrapped around the frame (mock tranny mount). Slid in good and I have clearance on the firewall to the downpipe off of the turbo.
Driver
Passenger, I'll either cut off the bottom of the frame mount or wrap it under the frame with some more gussets.
Height of the 4bt in the bay. That's the hood line and I might rub on the liner in which case I can just trim some out.
I picked up these 4L80e 4x4 tranny mounts and that ended friday. On saturday I dove into the tranny crossmember. These mounts looked like they's absorb vibration well... but ended up being too deep to fit inbetween the tranny and doubler. I found this out after fabbing up my crossmember. I'm going to need something with less beer gut so I took these back to napa and searched through their picture book. I found some I thought might work but none had diamensions and they didn't have them in stock. I'm going to check with the tranny shop that I bought my shift kit from and see what they have before calling the manufacture of the mounts I was looking at to get the diamensions.
Once I figured out those mounts weren't going to work I also realized that I didn't think about clearing the front driveshaft. I didn't finish the crossmember so I'll get that incorporated too. Just some more cutting and welding.
This is my Art Carr shifter. Since I was going to be shifting this like a stick I wanted something that could stand up to that on a daily basis. This has nice big numbers that will be easy to see to know what gear I'm in while driving. 4th will be my overdrive. For now I will leave the gates and see how I like it instead of cutting them out for the 1st to Rev. throw.
It came with the mounting console that I wasn't planning on so that was a nice suprise. There is a nice little shelf below 1st that I think I'll mount my switch for my lock-up on the torque converter.
Being stuck without tranny mounts I moved on and started putting the second coating of spectrum inside. I also did some test fitting of the stepvan gas tank. Once I got to looking at it I needed to know how many gallons it was to see if it really was going to be worth the time to mount it. I had never filled the old cruiser tank more that 17 gallons but research says it is a 23 gallon tank (I guess E didn't really mean empty on the gauge) and the stepvan's tank is only 30 gallons. If I were to drive conservative and got 25MPG I'd gain 170ish mile range with the 30 gal tank. With the cruiser tank I'll still get close to 600 miles so I decided the time wasn't worth mounting the stepvan tank. Maybe I'll come back to it later but for now I'll just put the old tank back in and deal with a 500 mile range.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
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- 4,044
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- Hillsboro, OR
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- www.cascadecruisers.com
nice.... I really wish I would have held out for an art carr shifter and not gone with the rat-sh*t shifter.
- Thread starter
- #191
Sure can, I'll get it after work.
- Thread starter
- #192
I measured last night and got 8 3/8" Let me tell you how I measured because that part of the frame slopes downward.
I hung the tape measure from the hole circled in the pic, got a big level and held it up to the bottom of the pan keeping it level so that one side of the level crosses by the hanging tape measure and took a reading. This way I got the lowest point on the bottom of the pan and using that hole you should be able to replicate it exactly.
It's getting cold and wet.....
Any approximate completion date?
Looking great nonetheless!!!!!!
john
Any approximate completion date?
Looking great nonetheless!!!!!!
john
- Thread starter
- #196
Yeah that cold and wet stuff has me a little worried since I'm doing this outside. I am under cover but still outside. Fall sure has stepped in within the last two weeks. I'd like to have it on the ground in a month and drivable in two. Some things I'm trying not to worry about until later i.e. new rear panels, sliders, finishing the rear bumper, AC functional.
Once I get that crossmember done I can get angles for the differentials and get the axles set up including the cut 'n turn. I need to pull the engine one more time for mounts/frame painting and to correctly install the torque converter and then I should be able to put it in and leave it. Wiring to get it running should be simple. We are planning on driving it to Calif. for christmas so most everything will need to be working by then and I'd sure hope I can get some testing in it before then! Plus all this great rain is making great mud and I sure miss wheeling.
- Thread starter
- #197
weekly update
I went out hunting again for tranny mounts but this time I didn't come home empty-handed. I eventually ended up a baxter auto parts and after explaining what I was doing he told me I could look at his inventory for myself. Perfect! That's what I wanted to do but didn't know I could ask. So I hung out in the back opening boxes to check the size ( I brought my adapter with me so I'd know) There were a couple of choices but ultimately choose a pair of motor mounts. Since the tranny is heavier and I added another 80 pounds on with the doubler I think these will work out nicely. Plus they are similar in design to my motor mounts and it should better absorb vibration from the engine (that's what I'm thinking at least). When adapting parts together that weren't ment for each other KISS is a good principle to follow. After I found the mounts the parts guy thought it looked like a chrysler application but couldn't find the number in his book, so I included the number for anyone thinking about doing the same/similar thing.
The offset worked out to my advantage. I couldn't have the mount stick out to far passed the adapter because it would run into the front driveshaft (actually the crossmemeber would in order to accomodate the mount).
The studs were bigger so I needed to drill and tap to have the mounts screw in. I was thinking of bolting on a flat piece so that I could use a center mount but that would have made getting to the bolt holes on the adapter difficult under the rig. As it is right now I'll need to mount the adapter on the tranny first and then the doubler to it.
Mounts are on
The mounts also needed to be no deeper than the adpater to fit inbetween the tranny and the doubler. These work.
It took me all weekend but I finished the transmission crossmember. It was originally designed for the other mounts I had but those didn't work so I had to modify the crossmember in a couple of places. I probably just should have started over but I didn't want to waste the metal. I'll get better pics once I take it all out for painting
Passeger side. Big notch for the driveshaft. I also had to notch the top to clear the rear heater lines.
Driver side. This part of the frame is angled so the frame side mounts made up the difference.
Tranny mounts
The weight of the engine/tranny is on the mounts, the strap is not holding any weight I just tighten it back up. The engine mounts distorted a little bit so I might shim under the tranny mounts to level it some more.
Now I can pull it all back out and paint it. I will also gusset those frame-side mounts once everything is out of the way. I took some time building another work table for outside (got tired of working off of saw horses) and I had to chop some wood so the family could stay warm this week. I also finished my last bit of lining on the interior so now I can put the seats back in and work on placement for the shifter.
I went out hunting again for tranny mounts but this time I didn't come home empty-handed. I eventually ended up a baxter auto parts and after explaining what I was doing he told me I could look at his inventory for myself. Perfect! That's what I wanted to do but didn't know I could ask. So I hung out in the back opening boxes to check the size ( I brought my adapter with me so I'd know) There were a couple of choices but ultimately choose a pair of motor mounts. Since the tranny is heavier and I added another 80 pounds on with the doubler I think these will work out nicely. Plus they are similar in design to my motor mounts and it should better absorb vibration from the engine (that's what I'm thinking at least). When adapting parts together that weren't ment for each other KISS is a good principle to follow. After I found the mounts the parts guy thought it looked like a chrysler application but couldn't find the number in his book, so I included the number for anyone thinking about doing the same/similar thing.
The offset worked out to my advantage. I couldn't have the mount stick out to far passed the adapter because it would run into the front driveshaft (actually the crossmemeber would in order to accomodate the mount).
The studs were bigger so I needed to drill and tap to have the mounts screw in. I was thinking of bolting on a flat piece so that I could use a center mount but that would have made getting to the bolt holes on the adapter difficult under the rig. As it is right now I'll need to mount the adapter on the tranny first and then the doubler to it.
Mounts are on
The mounts also needed to be no deeper than the adpater to fit inbetween the tranny and the doubler. These work.
It took me all weekend but I finished the transmission crossmember. It was originally designed for the other mounts I had but those didn't work so I had to modify the crossmember in a couple of places. I probably just should have started over but I didn't want to waste the metal. I'll get better pics once I take it all out for painting
Passeger side. Big notch for the driveshaft. I also had to notch the top to clear the rear heater lines.
Driver side. This part of the frame is angled so the frame side mounts made up the difference.
Tranny mounts
The weight of the engine/tranny is on the mounts, the strap is not holding any weight I just tighten it back up. The engine mounts distorted a little bit so I might shim under the tranny mounts to level it some more.
Now I can pull it all back out and paint it. I will also gusset those frame-side mounts once everything is out of the way. I took some time building another work table for outside (got tired of working off of saw horses) and I had to chop some wood so the family could stay warm this week. I also finished my last bit of lining on the interior so now I can put the seats back in and work on placement for the shifter.
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
It looking incredible dude .. thanks for posting and keeping us up to date ..
What turbo housing are you going to be running? It would probably be a good idea from what is probablt a 15 or 17cm housing to either a 12 or a 9 cm housing. This was the best thing I did to my 4bt. the 12 on my cut the turbo lag to near nothing. As for radiators I'm running my stock 40 rad with a Volvo 760 intercooler in front of that. The only time I've ever had a problem was running for 3-4 hours in 85 deg. heat on a trail andI forgot to turn on my fan, started smelling antifreeze saw some drips, so I flicked on the fan and it was cool in a matter of minutes.
Any more questions holla. Nice looking work.
Josh
PS get ready to replace motor mounts often, I went through 3 pairs of the ones like you have before I went to a new design with 2" poly bushings.
Any more questions holla. Nice looking work.
Josh
PS get ready to replace motor mounts often, I went through 3 pairs of the ones like you have before I went to a new design with 2" poly bushings.
- Thread starter
- #200
Glad to hear you liked the 12cm housing because that's what I got too.
Mine is wastegated and I've thought about fixing it shut to get more boost but I think I will run it first to get a baseline before playing with it. Well, now you need to share what you did for your new design on your motor mounts. Did you use poly on your motor mount or your transmission mounts, or both? How did the old ones fail (wear out, rip)? It would seem like polys would transmit more vibes to the frame.