That sucks, Mike... Keep us posted on the tranny!
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- Thread starter
- #302
more pics
The rig turned out pretty level. I know I want to rework the front pack since I have some new ideas for it but I will be leaving the rear overload on. Here are some pic of how it turned out.
stepvan muffler
Dash in for the trip but I'll be taking it out to do some more wiring on the other gauges.
I cut out the 2nd gate so I have a clean shot from 1st to 4th.
This is where the hub sits with the spacers on.
Had to get rid of the unleaded sticker. I'll clean that up later.
The rig turned out pretty level. I know I want to rework the front pack since I have some new ideas for it but I will be leaving the rear overload on. Here are some pic of how it turned out.
stepvan muffler
Dash in for the trip but I'll be taking it out to do some more wiring on the other gauges.
I cut out the 2nd gate so I have a clean shot from 1st to 4th.
This is where the hub sits with the spacers on.
Had to get rid of the unleaded sticker. I'll clean that up later.
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WOW! 
, hey mate congratulation for your Fj-60 project, excellent job, well done, 
, hey mate congratulation for your Fj-60 project, excellent job, well done, That's amazing! Keep it up. It's an inspiration.
- Thread starter
- #305
Thanks guys, I'll be heading to California for christmas vacation so I won't have much to update during the next two weeks. I'll be near a computer if anyone's got questions.
Regarding the tranny issue:
It was suggested that I call up transgo and question about line pressure modulation. Right now I don't have any modulation going on since it was controlled electronically with the force motor. The manual shift kit would suggest that their boost valve and the relief valve would make it unnecessary but that's not what a tranny shop is saying. There is finally someone else that is/has done what I'm doing to his tranny and he has modulation so I'm waiting to see how he did it. If I pull it, which I'm pretty sure I'll be doing, I'll be rebuilding it. At least I'll have something to think about while on vacation just hope it doesn't drive me
s
Regarding the tranny issue:
It was suggested that I call up transgo and question about line pressure modulation. Right now I don't have any modulation going on since it was controlled electronically with the force motor. The manual shift kit would suggest that their boost valve and the relief valve would make it unnecessary but that's not what a tranny shop is saying. There is finally someone else that is/has done what I'm doing to his tranny and he has modulation so I'm waiting to see how he did it. If I pull it, which I'm pretty sure I'll be doing, I'll be rebuilding it. At least I'll have something to think about while on vacation just hope it doesn't drive me
s
My bearing washers were toast so I ordered some previously. No wonder why the cruiser's handling was a little loose.
How does this happen, just wear? Why does it cause poor handling?
Build is looking awesome!!!
Dylan
- Thread starter
- #307
I'm pretty sure those were the original ones with 227K on them. Probably at one time the preload on the wheel bearings was too much and that caused some wear. Over time it got worse and it probably made setting the proper preload on the wheel bearings difficult. The other culprit would be the wheel nuts. When I dug into the front axle the wheel nuts were only hand tight and the outer one should have a fair amount of torque on it so the proper preload is maintained. Since it was loose that allowed some slop accelerating wear on the washer and allowing the whole wheel to wiggle. With low to zero preload I got loose handling because it would give when hitting bumps and trying to steering. This isn't the only reason my handling was loose but it was one of the factors. TRE's, suspension bushings, the steering system, these all play a factor in handling.
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Right on !
Safe travels and Happy Holidays
john
Safe travels and Happy Holidays
john
Congratulations Boots!!!!You did it! And quickly, by my standards, and quite deliberate.
Thank you for documenting the build and repower. The videos
really add another great element to your experience.
I would be very appreciative if you would share the process of
shaking down the vehicle. (any precautions for other builders
or any other notable things).
Can't wait for your impressions like handling, power, dB, MPG etc.
as your FJ 60 becomes fully on/off road-worthy...
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
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so, glad that a guy like boots is around....
Nice build! but why do you want the wheels to stick out that far? seems it would look nicer without the spacers?!
- Thread starter
- #312
marting
I needed the spacers to clear the brake calipers on the rear. When determining the actual width I didn't want to cut the wheel studs so I went with spacers long enough to cover them. Looking at how they, fit I probably would go with 1.5" instead of the 1.25" for the extra width for the same price. That is of course with running 3.5" backspacing on my rims. Whenever you go up with a lift it is always a good idea to also go out. That will help compensate for the the higher center of gravity. Besides the functionality I like the look of a wide stance. To some it's too wide but for me I really like it.
Thanks Zack, glad to hear that you'll be sticking with a full body.
GreasedPiggy, I'll try to get more detailed about the shake down as it happens. I certainly don't feel like this thread is coming to an end anytime soon. There are still lots of things I want to do and that will mean things to show. You guys keep coming up with great ideas on this forum that I want to incorporate into my rig.
I needed the spacers to clear the brake calipers on the rear. When determining the actual width I didn't want to cut the wheel studs so I went with spacers long enough to cover them. Looking at how they, fit I probably would go with 1.5" instead of the 1.25" for the extra width for the same price. That is of course with running 3.5" backspacing on my rims. Whenever you go up with a lift it is always a good idea to also go out. That will help compensate for the the higher center of gravity. Besides the functionality I like the look of a wide stance. To some it's too wide but for me I really like it.
Thanks Zack, glad to hear that you'll be sticking with a full body.
GreasedPiggy, I'll try to get more detailed about the shake down as it happens. I certainly don't feel like this thread is coming to an end anytime soon. There are still lots of things I want to do and that will mean things to show. You guys keep coming up with great ideas on this forum that I want to incorporate into my rig.
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Just read the thread start to finsih... Excellent work 
I've got a 4BT waiting for a home right now, I'm really leaning towards my SOA FJ62... your thread has answered alot of questions and provided alot of great ideas
I've got a 4BT waiting for a home right now, I'm really leaning towards my SOA FJ62... your thread has answered alot of questions and provided alot of great ideas
Slomo
It's Complicated
Wow, just found this thread and I must add yet again, nice work. Very cool of you to take the time to document this process in such detail. Well done.
- Thread starter
- #315
weekly update
It was good to have time off even from the project. The holiday visit was nice and I didn't get sick until the day I got home. Figures... we come back with a few days to spare before I have to go to work and I don't get much done. At least I'm feeling better now and have decided my plan. The tranny will be getting a rebuild. After talking to a few people it really does need it and should have been done the first time I was in to it but I didn't know it's condition thus lesson learned.
I felt ambitious while sick and got the tranny pulled. The nice thing about having that doubler is that I didn't have to touch the splitcase, it can come out as one piece. Lowering a 150 lbs doubler/Tcase combo and a 300+ lbs transmission with backyard tools was interesting but no one got smashed and dripping fluid can be cleaned up. Safety straps are a good idea and those rachet kinds work well. They definitely saved my hide. Since the budget is used up it looks like I will be studying this week out of my 4L80e manual and attempt the rebuild myself. I've found some rebuild threads on the net and will read those a couple of times before I jump into it.
To cement my reason for rebuilding, the new tranny fluid didn't look so new with probably less than 10 miles on it. I'll get a master kit and replace the new filter I just put in.
Without flash
With flash
It doesn't look bad but I won't be reusing that fluid. It's just dirtier than I expected even with me cleaning out the tranny when I was in there last summer.
I decided to wait until I get some more reading in before I purchase a rebuild kit so I moved to an easy project. The rear lip to hold on my weather stripping was rusting. I pried it away from the body previously and found very minimal rust transfer. I got out the angle grinder and cut it off. Changed to a flapper wheel and cleaned up the cuts.
I found some aluminum angle off of the stepvan and cut it to size. It will be in two pieces and I'll fasten it with some metal screws. I figured it was going to be easier to to this with the tailgate off so I took it off to have better access. I went over the surface with a wire wheel and then put two coats of rusbullet on.
The Spectrum coating is not going to stand up to traffic very well so I've been looking for a top coat. I'm trying out rustbullet on the back lip but have been thinking of trying out Plasti Dip. Like this stuff: Specialty Coatings as an Industrial Solution. I don't want something with granuals in it because that would make it harder to wipe clean, so I'm looking for more of a smooth finish. I know duplicolor makes a smooth bedliner but it's also expensive. The HCF stuff is ~$50 for a gallon.
That's as far as I got.
It was good to have time off even from the project. The holiday visit was nice and I didn't get sick until the day I got home. Figures... we come back with a few days to spare before I have to go to work and I don't get much done. At least I'm feeling better now and have decided my plan. The tranny will be getting a rebuild. After talking to a few people it really does need it and should have been done the first time I was in to it but I didn't know it's condition thus lesson learned.
I felt ambitious while sick and got the tranny pulled. The nice thing about having that doubler is that I didn't have to touch the splitcase, it can come out as one piece. Lowering a 150 lbs doubler/Tcase combo and a 300+ lbs transmission with backyard tools was interesting but no one got smashed and dripping fluid can be cleaned up. Safety straps are a good idea and those rachet kinds work well. They definitely saved my hide. Since the budget is used up it looks like I will be studying this week out of my 4L80e manual and attempt the rebuild myself. I've found some rebuild threads on the net and will read those a couple of times before I jump into it.
To cement my reason for rebuilding, the new tranny fluid didn't look so new with probably less than 10 miles on it. I'll get a master kit and replace the new filter I just put in.
Without flash
With flash
It doesn't look bad but I won't be reusing that fluid. It's just dirtier than I expected even with me cleaning out the tranny when I was in there last summer.
I decided to wait until I get some more reading in before I purchase a rebuild kit so I moved to an easy project. The rear lip to hold on my weather stripping was rusting. I pried it away from the body previously and found very minimal rust transfer. I got out the angle grinder and cut it off. Changed to a flapper wheel and cleaned up the cuts.
I found some aluminum angle off of the stepvan and cut it to size. It will be in two pieces and I'll fasten it with some metal screws. I figured it was going to be easier to to this with the tailgate off so I took it off to have better access. I went over the surface with a wire wheel and then put two coats of rusbullet on.
The Spectrum coating is not going to stand up to traffic very well so I've been looking for a top coat. I'm trying out rustbullet on the back lip but have been thinking of trying out Plasti Dip. Like this stuff: Specialty Coatings as an Industrial Solution. I don't want something with granuals in it because that would make it harder to wipe clean, so I'm looking for more of a smooth finish. I know duplicolor makes a smooth bedliner but it's also expensive. The HCF stuff is ~$50 for a gallon.
That's as far as I got.
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totaly awesome
Hey Mike... Is it done yet? 
- Thread starter
- #320
Depends on what part your asking. 
I got my tranny rebuild kit yesterday and spent the evening taking out the internals so now I've got a table full of parts and an empty case. It's easy to lift once it's not all together. I didn't use any special tools to take it apart and while the kit is pretty extensive I might want to pick up an extra part or two that wasn't included. I think I should be done with the rebuild by next weekend. So it looks like one more month before I unveil it at a cruiser meeting.
Goal now is to get it on the road and drive it. I can trim the fenders, stick on the 38s, add hydro-assist, redo the rear panels, get a front driveshaft, do the shifter linkage, figure out an e-brake, build sliders and bumpers (I'll put a quick one on the front for registration), and other wiring projects with it on the road.
To get it on the road I'll want to finish the tranny, mount shocks, finish my gauge wiring, fine tune little things like headlight angle and steering alignment, oh yeah deal with legalities. I'll probably come up with other stuff I want to do to it once I do more shake downs.
I got my tranny rebuild kit yesterday and spent the evening taking out the internals so now I've got a table full of parts and an empty case. It's easy to lift once it's not all together. I didn't use any special tools to take it apart and while the kit is pretty extensive I might want to pick up an extra part or two that wasn't included. I think I should be done with the rebuild by next weekend. So it looks like one more month before I unveil it at a cruiser meeting. Goal now is to get it on the road and drive it. I can trim the fenders, stick on the 38s, add hydro-assist, redo the rear panels, get a front driveshaft, do the shifter linkage, figure out an e-brake, build sliders and bumpers (I'll put a quick one on the front for registration), and other wiring projects with it on the road.
To get it on the road I'll want to finish the tranny, mount shocks, finish my gauge wiring, fine tune little things like headlight angle and steering alignment, oh yeah deal with legalities. I'll probably come up with other stuff I want to do to it once I do more shake downs.