Builds Family haulin' (6 Viewers)

[boots4]

Damn impressive work.

I am sorting out my diesel swap as I type this......

Copying your mounts

stay warm and dry my friend

john

Thanks again John. If I were in the sorting out phase on motor mounts for a cummins 4bt I would look into the 2nd or 3rd gen mounts that look like rubber donuts sitting upright. I didn't find any of those doing a quick search when I was debating the two styles but I was very interested in those too. My mounts will be strong enough but it will be one of those what if's until I get the beast running and I see my mounts in action if they absorb the vibs like I hope.

As for the tranny mounts, those I'm proud of and think will work very well especially since I've added some weight back there with the tranny and doubler.

What kind of diesel?

 

[redcorn]

4BT cummins

I can't see any other alternative out there for the bang for the buck.

 

[boots4]

Alright, one more bomber! Have you found an engine yet? I noticed the dovebid prices getting lower in this area than what I bought mine for. Sure looks like some good deals out there. I guess the next bidding is in December. What are your plans for drivetrain?

 

[redcorn]

I'm kinda tossing around options for the drivetrain and keep looking at the Buick 455/ Turbo 400 combo resting in the corner of my garage.

 

[1974FJ]

Hows that block heater mate to the block? is that hole in the block threaded?
Hows the hydro boost attach to the Toyota brake lines?
Loving the build!!

 

[marting]

looks great... ! keep up the good work!

 

[boots4]

Hows that block heater mate to the block? is that hole in the block threaded?
Hows the hydro boost attach to the Toyota brake lines?
Loving the build!!

1st Q:
The block heater is somewhat cone shaped (or maybe it's the block hole I can't remember right now) and has a rubber o-ring for a seal. A bolt goes through the center of it and attaches to a threaded bar that is bigger than the hole. It clamps it into the hole when the bolt is tightened. From the rust marks before I painted the engine it looks like it might be a leak point.


2nd Q:
I'm actually working on that now. I will either cut off the 10mm fittings on it right now, cut off the ones on the stepvan and loan a flaring tool to put on the fittings that work with that Master cylinder or just go to a place like NAPA that has a bunch of fittings and adapters and mate the metric stuff to the GM master cylinder. Shouldn't be hard.

 

[brokenparts]

boots you're my hero.... fantastic build up! I wish you would have this thing together for the snow run on the 8th...

 

[redcorn]

I smell a tagteam wrap up @ for the Cascade Cruisers.


C'mon fellas, a keg of Mirror Pond, some Hollow Point energy drink.
Elk sausage and a day of wrenching to boots gameplan.

 

[Bahndo111]

So are you using the GM master cylinder? I haven't looked yet to see if there is a way to go from the step van's hydro boost to the toyota master cylinder but that is what I was hoping to do.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Boots awesome progress and work.. Your front axle also looks awesome, seriously you are bordering on real-expert type caliber work and understanding of all of these systems, things that I think it took years and many times doing to understand... Most excellent!

 

[HI^C]

2nd gen mounts much more forgiving, how they fit in this
setup dont know for sure.

h1c is less efficient then a hx or hy stuff.

hydroboost you can just pull the firewall side plunger
out and shorten it and stick it back in. offset a bit when
mounting it to run it single shear style. OR mark it, pull it
out run the die on it, then just put it back in or hold it like you
did. LOL lines should be a plug and play, all but the return from
the box, that fitting.

easiest is just cut put metric on and reflare, MAKE sure you put
your adjustable prop in the rear first then do it after. Run regular
lines from master to prop regular master cyl adapters will get
you down to 3/16ths line then go.

hydro to toy master, well Kind of a pain and really doesnt make sense
adapter booster then another adapter, would require plate adapter then modifying the
output plunger from the booster. playing with these plunger lengths is a pain, and then
doing both sides of the booster is just nuts regular gm master will work just fine, and
there is 8-10 different masters that can work on hydroboost booster, so you can change
bore, look of, line sizes, etc... by just changing to different master.

 

[boots4]

2
LOL lines should be a plug and play, all but the return from
the box, that fitting.

The high pressure side from my hydroboost uses a different fitting than the high side to the toyota steering box. My HB is an o-ring fitting and the toyota box is an inverted flare. This Hydroboost is metric so the toyota line does screw in but it won't seal properly. This is the case with my box. I'm sure there are HB boxes out there with flared connections, mine isn't. I will either have to get a line made or convert to AN fittings and run my own hose (still leaning toward the second). There are o-ring to AN fittings commonly titled "power steering adapters." Thats what my research last week turned up.

 

[boots4]

Boots awesome progress and work.. Your front axle also looks awesome, seriously you are bordering on real-expert type caliber work and understanding of all of these systems, things that I think it took years and many times doing to understand... Most excellent!

I consider that a huge compliment, thanks.

I did do quite a bit of reading to try and understand it all and I generally like to have a plan before I get into a project, especially one this big (for me anyways).

 

[boots4]

boots you're my hero.... fantastic build up! I wish you would have this thing together for the snow run on the 8th...

That would be fun. I was talking to Kevin about wiring (he'll be out next week to give me a hand) and he said he might fire up the 40 for that run. If I get the things done that I want next week maybe I'll show up. I'd like to see your smurf in action.

Have you posted pics of your ram assist yet? I'd like to see how you put it on the axle.

 

[boots4]

I smell a tagteam wrap up @ for the Cascade Cruisers.


C'mon fellas, a keg of Mirror Pond, some Hollow Point energy drink.
Elk sausage and a day of wrenching to boots gameplan.

You're making me hungry. Hopefully by next weekend there won't be much more major stuff to do .

 

[boots4]

weekly update

I just didn't have enough time on my days off so I started putting in hours after work. This helped and I just might get it running for the christmas trip to visit family. I talked to a local FJ60 4bt and he will be out this week to help wire. In fact the plan is to have him drive his over and we'll just look from one engine bay to the other. Should take less than 2hrs if we get to chatting.

My wheel spacers showed up, the triple boot showed up, and the axle shims showed up all last monday.

These are 1.25 width with a 6 x 5.5 pattern. I wanted them just wide enough to clear the studs. If I bought some again I'd probably just get 1.5's since they were the same price. Since I don't have brakes yet I figured out another way to keep it from spinning while I torqued down the nuts. Because my discs are vented I just slipped a screw driver in a vent hole and had it rest against the caliper in the direction I was tightening. It worked out great.

I decided to spend a little more to get metal shims instead of aluminum ones. They are 5 degrees and are 2.5" wide. The mounting hole is knotched to make it flat for the spring bolt. I added another leaf to the bottom of the pack and put on the shims.

One of my new u-bolts got mangled when I took it off for the shims so I'll get another one but I couldn't resist seeing the adjusted pinion angle so I put it on with three u-bolts. It looks like it will work well.

Put my Aussie locker in the front 3rd member. There are some good write-ups on here. I didn't do the first clearance test, just the last one and it was perfect anyways.

Did some more exhaust work. Got the down pipe around the back side over the trans. Just stepvan parts.

You can see the dents that were already in it. Since I wanted to get this thing running soon I just used the parts. I'll look into replacing it all at a later time but for now it will do.

Got the rear on the ground. I will need some longer lugnuts so I just put on three per wheel.

Before I put it on the ground I dropped the axle and put the overloads back in the spring pack. I will make an anit-wrap bar for it later so the overloads will help for now.

I didn't like the plastic t-fitting that came with my boost gauge so I bought a brass one. It's in a part of the hose that bends and when I took out the plastic one (which was a little to small for the hose anyways) it was slightly flexing already. This will be more durable.

I relocated the axle breather. Grabbed a 10mmx1.0 tap, drilled a hole and put it in. I had to move it because the axle brace covered the old hole that I closed up.

 

[boots4]

more pics

I did some running around on saturday morning for parts. NAPA didn't have anything I wanted so I just ordered it from them so I could get back to the cruiser. I ordered rubber lines to the calipers, the lines to the axles, driver side 4runner caliper since my junkyard one had a frozen piston (still cheaper to go that route due to the core charge). I was refered to a screw and fastener place which wasn't open on saturday but I looked them up online and I wish I had found them sooner. Sounds like it will be a candy store. It's called Tacoma Screw.

I got home and got ready for some front axle fun. I got out all my parts and the rebuild kit that I'd been storing since before the beginning of the build. I looked over the FSM a little, read some here, wrote down some torque specs and got to it.

I couldn't get to the bottom side of the ball to drive in the trunion races so I decided to put the bad u-bolt on with one bolt and lift the rig to put jacks under the axle. This gave me more room. The races went in without much drama.

Cleaned up and painted my knuckles, put in my ARP knuckle studs using the double nut method (real easy), grabbed my Marlin high steer arms, and put the knuckle on. I fastened the seal and felt wiper on the backside after it was on and started filling with moly grease. Marlin's new axle seals are in there too.

Driver

Passenger

Fished out my Longfields and 30 spline inners from bedside storage (it'll be nice to have some room on my side of the bed now ), popped them together, and stuffed them in. The long side was a little difficult to get in but with some more wiggling (being careful of the seal) I got them in with a little more force. Short side was a piece of cake.

Driver

Passenger

If you have to take the spindle off a lot I could see how changing to studs on the knuckle would be helpful but the gasket hole it just a little smaller than the bolt so it actually holds the bolt for you. I put the combo together with my cut dust shields and put those on. I took a look at my longs one last time since I hope not to see them until the next knuckle packing.

My bearing washers were toast so I ordered some previously. No wonder why the cruiser's handling was a little loose.

If I'd had my other caliper I could have put it on the ground, so instead I put the front tire in place to get an idea. My goal for the week was to get it on the ground so I'm pretty much there. The front will come up about 2" to get the tire on.

Hooked up the high steer and got a sight alignment. I'll do the measurements once the tires are on. The weight of the rig is on the axles.

Passenger

Got carried away with the grey primer and sprayed the front. I even thought about painting other walls in the engine bay but I stopped and worked on other things. I bolted the radiator down and fastened on the AC condensor.

Driver

 

[boots4]

more more pics

The pitman arm set up for FJ80 joints.

From back to front of how the tires stick out. That's the kind of look I like, sticks out a little but not too much. These are just 35s and I'll change to the 38's when I can get some time in for a little body work.

Hooked up the steering box to the steering wheel. I had to pull the zerk fitting to release some grease so that I could get the joint far enough back so it'd fit on the box shaft.

Oil pan and pinion clearance

I've still got plumbing to do for the engine and the brakes but I was hoping to turn the engine over by the end of next weekend. Keep your fingers crossed, I just might make it.

 

[Tapage]

Nice nice .. I hope some day I could do some work as you do .. Hi quality !

Just wondering if you thought your rear spring pack setup it's enought heavy to support the weight of all family stuff on it and your family with enought shackle clearance from the frame to the spring eye ..