Builds Family haulin' (1 Viewer)

[boots4]

weekly update

I'll do today's in installments to make sure I get all the pics linked. Saturday ended up being a wet day and that hindered some of my progress but I was able to get other stuff done where I could stay under cover and keep dry. I got all the bracketry out of my art carr box and started playing legos. I tried a couple of variations and modifications until I came up with something I was satisfied with. For me, it didn't fit right out of the box.

I started with the included brackets but the arc on the shifter arm didn't quite match the travel on the gated shifter. I flipped the cable mounting bracket over to show what it originally started out looking like. Original holes were to the farthest left.

Then I welded the plate on top to move the cable mounting points closer to the shifter bracket and tried different holes on the shifter arm.

That still didn't get it quite right. The gated sections weren't quite lining up with the detents inside the tranny. I started thinking about the old shifter arm and tried it. I had to flip it around to get it to line up right and that matched the gates much better.

Since that worked I now had to modify the cable mounting bracket again because it was kinking the cable too much. So I came up with this:

Painted it up and bolted it back on the tranny. I moved the position up because I wanted the cable to run over the tranny crossmember and not under.

You can make out the reason for the funky bracket. I needed to clear the tranny pan to move the position up and it needed to come out too. So I just welded another plate on top to achieve that. This keeps the cable inline and gets it over the tranny crossmember without drama.

 

[boots4]

Next I started in on the intercooler/radiator.

Here is the piece I made last week that connects the top of the intercooler to the top of the radiator.

It has bolts on both sides.

Attached it to the radiator.

Made these brackets for the bottom mounts between the intercooler and radiator.

They go on like this. I would have used all four bolts on the side of the radiator but I didn't know how I was going to mount this combo to the landcruiser at the time.

The intercooler sits on those brackets like so.

I then placed the combo in the engine bay and did some thinking. I was going to try and use the old mounts but I came up with a simpler solution. I wanted to keep it mounted to the radiator support frame and have decided to hard mount it. The intercooler was hard-mounted in the stepvan so I figured it was strong enough. The top mount is what carries the weight while the bottom mounts are just to keep it together and off the support just a tiny bit. Armed with my plan I made these for the bottom mounts.

They mount to the bottom by sandwiching the intercooler with the bottom bracket on the radiator.

Tightened up the top bolts and stood it up (the wood block is just to keep it from falling over).

Those are the bottom mounting holes.

I dublicated those holes on the radiator support frame.

I'm using the top radiator support piece as my top mount. I welded a bar on the backside with bolts tacked on. This is the underside view.

Mounting side.

Attached to the intercooler.

I think the previous owner must have had a battery boil over and he didn't clean it up so this is the damage that resulted once the weather got to it. I wire brushed it but want to clean it up some more before I paint it. I'll put in the intercooler/radiator after I've taken care of that.

I finished painted the inside of the frame so I can start putting fuel lines and brake lines back on.

I'll finish up with a few more pics after lunch.

 

[boots4]

I'm planning on running three sticks for my doubler and t.c. and I want all of them to be a forward - back throw. The only shifter that isn't set up for that is the H-L on the t.c. so I converted it.

Bottom left is t.c. 2-4wd, top middle is H-L t.c. and the right is the doubler (203) H-L.

I wanted to drill a hole for a bolt in the 2-4wd shaft but when I put that drill on the shaft it just laughed at me. I even scuffed it with and angle grinder but that is a hardened shaft and wasn't going to budge. I'll have to figure out another way to mount the linkage. I was hoping not to weld to it but I may have too.

I know nobody likes drawings in the hardcore section but I'm going to sneek this in hoping it might help somebody. This is how I figured out how to get my forward-back throw for my shifters. The image at the right shows which side of the fulcrum on the shifters that I'll need to mount my linkage to.

Marlin's new front axle seals.

This is my Spal fan controller. It can control two fans, one variable and the other with an on/off function (relay required for the second fan). Good looking unit and compact.

It is programmable and uses the factory water temp sensor for a signal. With the engine running and the fans disconnected, you simply set the low for one fan to come on at 50% and set the high for the first fan to be running at 100% (it is pulse-width modulated so the fan will increase to 100% as the temperature climbs) and the second fan to come on.

 

[projektdotnet]

I wanted to drill a hole for a bolt in the 2-4wd shaft but when I put that drill on the shaft it just laughed at me. I even scuffed it with and angle grinder but that is a hardened shaft and wasn't going to budge. I'll have to figure out another way to mount the linkage. I was hoping not to weld to it but I may have too.

IIRC it can be done by getting the shaft nice and red before drilling it (ex for the SM465 output shaft if you don't want to just swap in their provided shaft when using the rock box). Don't know how it will affect the seal on the front piece of the t-case though.

 

[boots4]

IIRC it can be done by getting the shaft nice and red before drilling it (ex for the SM465 output shaft if you don't want to just swap in their provided shaft when using the rock box). Don't know how it will affect the seal on the front piece of the t-case though.

I didn't know this. I put on a new rubber boot so I'll just have to remember how I put it on to see if I can get it off. Now I just need to get a little torch to heat things up. Then again, welding would probably be faster.

 

[projektdotnet]

I didn't know this. I put on a new rubber boot so I'll just have to remember how I put it on to see if I can get it off. Now I just need to get a little torch to heat things up. Then again, welding would probably be faster.

Make sure to get some really strong bits too

 

[boots4]

weekly update

It is official, I am now the proud husband of a cruiser chick! She helped me put in the doubler/t.c and wrenched with me. After we tied up our kids so they wouldn't get into trouble we got it installed.

Front output. It looks close but I haven't test fit the driveshaft yet to see how close. If it rubs I might just scrap that crossmember and make a new one that goes under the front output instead of over (don't know why I didn't do that in the first place).

I have 1 1/2" to 2" of clearance with the transmission tunnel. That hole was where the old catalytic sensor wire came through the floor and now I'm using that for the shifter cable.

I found that the easiest way to put in the doubler/t.c. was to support the tranny, pull the crossmember, bolt up the doubler/t.c. and replace the crossmember. I had to clearance the crossmember again to clear the bolt heads that hold on the retainer plate for the 203 intermediate shaft.

I decided to take the cheater way and just weld on a tab to the 2-4wd shifter.

I started work on the base for the shifter levers to mount to. I cut a long strip off the stepvan and bent it to fit over the transmission. It uses existing bolt holes and I reinforced the top corners. It's just primered right now before I get the levers mounted. I am trying to place the levers in the exisiting hole on the transmission access cover.

I cut and reused the old shifter cable bracket (welded piece on the left side) and flipped it to mount where it did before, just on top to go over the tranny.

The levers will mount to this side on some kind of shaft.

I closed in the old hole for the manual shifter on the transmission access cover and filled in the bolt holes.

Got some practice spot welding thin metals. The panel will be coated to match the interior after I get the other shifters set up.

 

[boots4]

Once I got the 203/t.c. in I could get the angle off the rear flange and set up the pinion angle. I double checked my alignment of the axle to the frame, installed a 3rd member with two nuts and placed the weight of the rig on the axle.

This is with the weight of the rig on the axle and springs.

Shackle angle with weight. The frame is just sitting off that rear jack stand.

Got the angle off the t.c.

Started adjusting the pinion angle. I pointed the pinion angle down more than neccessary before I put the weight of the rig on the axle so that all I'd have to do is use the jack to raise it to the angle I wanted. Once it was where I wanted it I release the jack and double checked.

The angle was good so I tacked on the perches.

Placed the rig back on the rear jack stands and made sure it was secure. Then I pulled the 3rd, dropped the axle and slid it out to weld up the perches. Perches are now welded on.

Close up.

Primered to keep off the rust. I still need to weld on the shock mounts and caliper mounts before I paint up the whole axle.

Cleaned up my hard fuel lines and put a couple of bolts in.

So here's the bummer news. I was wrapping up putting my turbo back together and I needed to rotate the main housing in the exhaust housing to get the oil return lines lined up and I tapped a little too hard on it and broke it. Now I'll need to get a good housing and rebuild that. I've seen a few on ebay and will just get a used one and transfer my rebuilt parts to the good housing and put it back together. I'm still pushing to fire it up by thanksgiving.

 

[redcorn]

Right on boots!

I can't wait to see this on all four wheels/ tires

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Right on, buddy! Sorry I wasn't able to come out and lend a hand... Don't quit asking tho!

 

[Dusty]

Incredible. what a build. thank you

 

[Grolar]

This is just great. I understand you did all that by yourself? Where do you stock all those skill bananas?

More seriously, what output do you think you'll get from this 4BT once finished? Good luck for what's left of your venture.

 

[brokenparts]

This is just great. I understand you did all that by yourself? Where do you stock all those skill bananas?

That's what I was thinkin too!

 

[redcorn]

To the top for my hero!!!!

 

[RHINO]

boots, this is an awsome thread man!! such detail in all the pics and info, whish i had the camera time when i did my diesel swap but i just wanted to get it done quick i guess.

BTW, those little sand blasters with the sand holder on top meant for spot work work great for cleaning rust from corners and hard to reach areas, even if you have a small compressor with a small tank. i'll tell ya it was a good $20 spent

 

[boots4]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the support and I really am learning a bunch with this project. For me I like to think of it as a bunch of little projects that come together. That makes it easier than thinking of the whole thing at once and then light bulbs go off on how the systems work together.

Grolar,

I am resisting the temptation to play with the pump so I have a baseline for when I do some tweaking. I figure the standard 120hp and 300ft.tq (because it's the 4bta version) but what I'm curious to find out is how the tranny is going to work out.

Rhino,

where do you get the media to blast with and what works well in those little handheld kinds? That might be best for cleaning up the spot under the battery tray.

Redcorn,

are you in the portland area and if so do you go to the cascadecruiser meetings? I think I'll be able to make this month's meeting so I'll also be able to meet brokenparts as well.

 

[boots4]

weekly update

Waiting for parts:

Bought a used turbo from ebay so I can change out the main body. Ordered my filters and another mounting base because I decided to run a 16 micron before the lift pump and keep my stock filter which is 10 micron (got a new one for it).

Router died on my home network so I got a new one and finally got it set up. Diagnosted a bad stick of memory on the main computer running some tests. Did some minor maintenance on the DD. Continued helping with cutting down a friends tree (I think it will take two more sats). And finally I got to work on the cruiser.

I fired up the angle grinder again and burned through some more cutoff wheels and made some spring mounting plates. I cut out some stepvan frame and attempted to bend the ends at 45 degrees without heat. Yeah ,like that was going to work so I did the poor man's bend. I cut the plate with a cutoff wheel without going all the way through the metal, bent it and filled in the gap with weld once I got the sides on.

Welded and painted.

I closed in the corner on the mounting plates that I'm going to reuse.

I decided to put the plates I made on the rear axle because they were a little bigger and I don't know if it would interfere with the high-steer on the front axle.

Bolted up the 3rd member after cleaning up the mounting surfaces from old gasket. I'm leaving this open and putting the locker up front because it will be easier to install one on the rear axle in the near future. Funding is winding down so I need to make sure I can get the parts I'll need first, but a locker will find it's way before too long.

Next was to start on the front axle. I think toyota SOA front axles are a rite of passage in the toyota world. It takes some thought and some customizing on that pass side spring perch. Since I'm using a DC joint all I needed to worry about was pointing the pinion at the t.case. I found some old ubolts for mock up and placement. I will be buying some new ones that are stronger before it's bolted on for good. So I put the springs back on, lined it up, attached the driver side and blocked up the pass side. Bolted on the 3rd with two bolts and grabbed the jack. True to a backyard fabber I found a piece of 2x4 that was the right length to act as a drive shaft and started to point the pinion up. I used the 2x4 to show me the angle that I needed to get to. Once there I marked the driver side perch and took it all part.

I took the axle to my vice and cut off some more mounting tabs that needed to be repositioned. I tacked on the driver side perch and got a level. I positioned the axle in the vice so that the perch showed level and from there started "customizing" the pass side perch to fit the housing. It wasn't pretty and it was a lot of cut, grind, test until I got it to sit level like the driver side. I tacked it on and went for a test fit. I needed to move the passenger side out towards the knuckle just a little more for the alignment bolt in the spring pack to sink into the hole on the perch. That's why we test fit with things tacked together. So I took the axle back to the table and fixed that and started doing some welding. I had to do a little filler work since I'd hacked on that pass side perch but that just took a little more time. Now it's welded up and placed under the rig for some thinking.

While I had the axle on the table I did the cut on a cut 'n turn. I made some marks so that I know where I started (which really doesn't matter since I'll be using an angle finder to adjust the caster anyways and it's different for everyone depending on their setup). I really don't think a cut 'n turn is hard to do and the drivability improvement will be well worth it. I tried turning a little but think I may need to do more grinding in some areas since nothing budged.

I've seen a couple of ways to fasten the pass side together. The two I'm considering is using a long ubolt and bending in the angle or welding on some bolts to the perch (it would be more than just tacking bolts to the perch or housing). I wanted to think about that some this week so any feedback is appreciated. This is the second part of the rite of passage to a toyota front SOA. I do like not having anything hanging down to snag stuff on the trail.

Found some caps for the ports on the gas tank I won't need. The problem is that the composition stated rubber and biodiesel (the higher blends) will weaken straight rubber. I'd like to run bio so this could be a problem in the future. For now it will do.

There's been some discussion on what kind of chevy packs to use. I'm using the 3/4 ton packs but have taken off the overload leaves. I want to see how it sits without the overloads. If I need them after I get it on the ground I can always add them. Just in case I need them I painted them.

Also paint the front hubs. I'm hoping to take the rear axles and front hubs to a new friend who has a shop to get the studs pressed in. I'd like to do it this week in which case I can start setting up the rear brake calipers. One of the front 4runner calipers I picked up from the junkyard is frozen so I'll just use it as a core and go buy a new one.

 

[heckler]

I have never set a pinion angle or anything so this might seem like a stupid question. How come you measured the pinion angle when there is no weight on the axles. Is there that much tolerance to this that you can measure the angle with the axle completely drooped? Could you have jacked up the axle until the weight of the truck is on the springs and then measure the angle? That seems like it would be closer to ride height.

The truck is awesome, it makes me want a SOA diesel 60.

 

[boots4]

I have never set a pinion angle or anything so this might seem like a stupid question. How come you measured the pinion angle when there is no weight on the axles. Is there that much tolerance to this that you can measure the angle with the axle completely drooped? Could you have jacked up the axle until the weight of the truck is on the springs and then measure the angle? That seems like it would be closer to ride height.

The truck is awesome, it makes me want a SOA diesel 60.

Not a stupid question a good one actually and fitting for your screen name.

For the rear I did put the weight of the rig on the rear axle to get the pinion angle, that was done last week actually. That is the right way to do it.

For the front I didn't because when using a double-cardon joint on the front driveshaft it doesn't have to be as perfect like using a standard shaft with only two ujoints, it just needs to point up at the front t.case flange. I didn't place the pass side spring perch under the spring when I got the pinion angle I only blocked it at the same height as the driver side so putting the weight on it might have been unstable since the spring would be resting on the housing that has a slope at that part.

Other notes:

My additional problem with my set up might be that the axle is not on the center of the leaf springs and the part that it does mount to isn't quite parallel to the ground. When the leaf springs stuff it will tilt the axle forward just a little with the springs flattening. I figure it will be minor and not cause any handling issues on the street where the springs won't see much articulation. Plus by adjusting the caster with the cut 'n turn I'm getting at the main issue for handling. On top of that I plan to run the sway bar on the street. On the trail it might be more pronounced but then I'm going at a slower speed so then it probably won't matter. If the angle on the pinion gets too much once it's on the ground then I'll adjust with some degree shims under the springs which will also affect my caster. I plan to throw in a degree or two more in case of that since I figure I would need to bring the pinion down in my mental scenerios. However, too much caster will make the steering more difficult. The average number from my research says 5 to 6 degrees so I'll probably try for 8 or maybe 9. I'll be running hydro assist so that will negate some of the stiffness that could be associated with too much caster.

 

[Pacer]

Been lurking and eagerly anticipating updates to this thread from the get go, AWESOME work Boots. Very clean, well thought out install!!!

One thought and one question for you and the community....

Q: why do the spring plates have to have sides to them? Is it to increase rigidity or strength? I have seen people just use 1/2 plate up there. Toyota uses that configuration SUA to protect the nuts on the U bolts, but I don't understand why you would need this on top of the spring pack.

T: It may be good to leave that PS spring mount tacked until you get the full weight of the rig on the axle. It seems to me that with the axle sitting so far forward on the spring pack and the SR the pinion will point even higher with any kind of bounce or bump.
You have already touched on this in your last post, so it is clearly a concern of yours too. I looks to me like you may have burned in the DS perch with the pinion pointed a little too high if that angle will increase under bump. Could be camera angle....you could tell me to go myself and build my own.....

Love the build and the updates, this one will be referenced for years to come, thank you for the details!!!