Builds Family haulin' (12 Viewers)

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my current set up is, two polys up front on the motor, with a large rubber mount on the back of the t-case. The rubber motor mounts I was getting would either smash flat on the passenger side or tare apart on the drivers (the bottom end of the 4BT is amazing). The polys don't seem to transfer to bad of vibration but it definitely is is not like running in a Cadillac. The bushings are these :
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=35&cat=28&page=1


The other engine mod I did that made a big difference was the 3GSK. now it pulls all the way through the gear not just the first bit.

Josh
 
Thanks for the info. The guys on the 4btswaps site that have used these mounts haven't reported any problems so I'll keep an eye on those once it's on the road.

I'm assuming you did the govenor spring in your injection pump, did you get your 366 spring from pier's diesel or somewhere local? Did you need to bleed the injection pump after you opened it up to replace the spring?
 
boots4 said:
Thanks for the info. The guys on the 4btswaps site that have used these mounts haven't reported any problems so I'll keep an eye on those once it's on the road.

I'm assuming you did the govenor spring in your injection pump, did you get your 366 spring from pier's diesel or somewhere local? Did you need to bleed the injection pump after you opened it up to replace the spring?
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Yeah the governor spring I did, I got it from PDR. It ended up being a two month ordeal to get it back running again. I ended up bending the fuel shot off lever inside the pump so that it would not ride on the full fuel screw and thus would not let any fuel to the injectors. I was going to school and had no time to work on it then, but after a new fuel filter and a new lift pump, I finally realized the problem and ended up welding the crack on the arm inside of the pump. Its been running ever since. As for bleeding, just crack the injectors and crank it, this will work out any air that is still in the pump either that or run your electric pump for a bit with the key on and it should run fuel through the pump and out the return line.

I'm running my exhaust the same way and find it is the best way I have found. I just added a single chamber flowmaster and found that it knocked down the noise quite a bit, now all I hear is the sweet song of the turbo. the egts were a bit high before intercooler, but with it is a dream.

Josh
 
I got outside the last two nights and have been putting the interior back together. I needed to get the driver's seat in so I could see about positioning the shifter. It looks like I'll want to build a little plateform to bring it up to a more comfortable position. Since I'll need to shift this like a stick I want it to be comfortable to reach.

Another package showed up today with 4 relays. The plan is to wire the headlights with relays (one for low, one for high) to get some more voltage to them (will make them brighter). Another relay will go with my spal fan controller (suppost to be here tomorrow) to run the contour fans for cooling. And the last relay will be a spare until I get the little compressor wired up for on-board air.
 
redcorn said:
Adding the 7" Roundeyes headlamps was one of the best mods I made for travelling in my rig.
Stock lamps blow
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I definitely agree with that! I'm wiring in the relays to get ready for adding more powerful headlights in the future. Still need shocks and drivelines so those take $$ priority. But there's always christmas right around the corner.
 
weekly update

We had some dry weather this last weekend so I got some painting done. Before I painted I added gussets to the front spring hangers and tranny mounts. I also painted the motor mounts (motor side), tranny crossmember, and my 203 access cover.

I only painted the inside frame to the middle. I can finish up the rest with the drivetrain mounted. I have some acid etching around where the battery was. I want to clean that up a little more before I paint it too.

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Gussets on the front hanger. I was going to do something fancy with the gussets but decided to just get on with it and spend time on more important stuff.

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Tranny mounts finshed up

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While the paint was drying I worked on getting the shifter mounted. After trying a couple of positions I decided it needed to come up to be more comfortable so I fabbed up a base. I also trimmed the plastic base to make it shorter. I haven't coated the tranny access cover because I'm not sure were the TC shifters are going to come through.

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The base will fasten to the floor with the bolts I tacked on inside.

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Holes

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The base

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Painted the base and put the shifter in to see how it looked. I have about 1 inch of room off the dash when the shifter is in Park.

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While the engine was out I separated the tranny to install the torque converter correctly. I did the push and turn trick a couple of times and felt it go in deeper. Then I put the tranny back on to line up the torque converter. The instructions that came with it said that a gap of 1/16" - 1/8" was fine but that anything bigger needed to have washers/spacers put in between the TC and flex-ring to get it to that spacing. Mine was more like 3/16" strong so I got some grade 8 washers (those seemed to be the most consistent in thickness) and put those in. That brought me within the range on the instructions. Now getting them in there was tricky and took me some time, but with enough patience I finally got them all in and started to tighten the bolts. I brought in the TC a little at a time and moved to the next bolt trying to be as even as possible. It suggested that the TC could produce unwanted vibration if it were misaligned by tightening one bolt down all the way and then moving on to the next. I turned the engine with a rachet to turn the flywheel while tightening the bolts. Here's a pic of the spacing. All mounting surfaces were sanded before putting this together.

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With the engine back in the bay after the paint dried and hopefully for the last time, I started positioning the intercooler/radiator. I came up with a mounting strip to joint the two together. Again I used pieces off the stepvan frame.

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It's hard to see but it's the piece with the bolts on it and it goes inbetween the radiator and intercooler. All holes were pre-existing so I just tacked bolts on this piece that lined up with the holes.

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I clearanced the flanges on the radiator so I could get the intercooler down.

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This is where I mounted it to the radiator.

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It's just placed in there right now and will need mounts to the frame or the radiator support. I was concerned that I'd have hood clearance problems but from what I can tell it looks like I'll be fine. I won't really know until I get the engine hoist out of there (no reason for it to be there now) and test fit the hood.

I tested my mech. water temp gauge to make sure it works before I put in the time fitting it in the dash. I ordered a pair of Marlin's new front axle seals and those showed up; I bought my rebuild kit before those came out so I'll use the ones in that kit as spares. I also got my Spal fan controller. It's smaller than I imagined and looks pretty nice.
 
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this is really an amazing build. Your attention to detail is awesome, right down to the LED lights!!

Could you post a link of this 4bt conversion forum you speak of occasionally? I would like to educate myself a bit.

Thanks and keep diggin'
 
Thank you guys!

I'm starting to feel the crunch of getting this back on the road. I could use a hand getting the doubler/TC bolted in so if anyone feels like helping for a hour let me know.

The 4bt site is: http://www.4btswaps.com It's really grown since I started my research over there.
 
This legendary thread is full of 100% WIN
 
Sorry man... really tried to get all my stuff done to get over and help. Hope all went well!!! Never seems to be enough time in the day with a 12 year old that plays soccer and a baby! Soccer is nearly done so hopefully I'll get a chance to redeem myself on another part of your project.
 
brokenparts said:
Sorry man... really tried to get all my stuff done to get over and help. Hope all went well!!! Never seems to be enough time in the day with a 12 year old that plays soccer and a baby! Soccer is nearly done so hopefully I'll get a chance to redeem myself on another part of your project.
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No sweat, I'm glad nobody made it for saturday since it was one wet day! That put a damper on getting some stuff done and getting the T.C. bolted up didn't happen. I got other stuff done and will get that posted this morning. I bet your soccer game got rained on.
 
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