Outstanding job, seriously top notch.
Family FJ Build : '76 40 Resto/Frame Off (a.k.a. the Japanese Baby Buggy) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter zerotreedelta
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- Thread starter
- #142
It's the cooking pot, isn't it... 
Appreciate it...it's definitely nice to see things come together after all the hours in so far. Pretty soon it'll be able to drive out of the garage on its own...!
Appreciate it...it's definitely nice to see things come together after all the hours in so far. Pretty soon it'll be able to drive out of the garage on its own...!
Lol, I am the cook in my Family, Rachel's pots suck to actually cook in, but that looks like a kick ass place to use one.
- Thread starter
- #144
Dash is all back together, although I see the cluster has to come back out...the ammeter gauge seems to have come loose in all the shuffling, so the gauge is crooked now. 
Got the original front mat cleaned up, the tears repaired with some pretty stout T-Rex tape, and back in, and then the front seats went back in. All in all, a pretty good day for the ol' 40. Plopped my rear into the drivers seat, too, and it even managed to move an inch or two under its own power now that the clutch is bled!
Got the original front mat cleaned up, the tears repaired with some pretty stout T-Rex tape, and back in, and then the front seats went back in. All in all, a pretty good day for the ol' 40. Plopped my rear into the drivers seat, too, and it even managed to move an inch or two under its own power now that the clutch is bled!
- Thread starter
- #145
Is there any trick to splitting the gauge cluster apart? The backing plate for the ammeter wanted to wander yesterday with vibration, but after taking all the rear screws out, the board is loose but can't fit out the back, seemingly due to the white reflectors.
Seems odd to need to unbend the tabs to pull the silver face off first...or is that just it?
Seems odd to need to unbend the tabs to pull the silver face off first...or is that just it?
- Thread starter
- #146
Ended up just bending the tabs...seemed like that's the correct route, but does seem odd that they didn't allow disassembly via the rear screws. Ammeter gauge was a smidge loose, all better now.
Had one of those afternoons - reinstalled the cluster, and then noticed the fuel gauge wasn't coming up anymore. Figured I'd somehow borked it in the process, so pulled the cluster out, started troubleshooting via the FSM. No 12V at the cluster...hmm. Pulled out the wiring diagram...12v feed comes from the heater circuit, and I had to borrow that fuse the other day. Very odd, Toyota...very odd. Put the heater fuse back in, and the cluster works again.
And now I'm chasing a starting issue for some reason...it'd been starting very well since the initial install, but I'd needed to adjust the timing curve up in the RPMs. Flashed that in this morning, but it did not like it for some reason, although I think it might have just had excess fuel from cycling the key to flash it. Either way, I put the old tune back in...and now I have *no* spark and no RPM signal. The coil/CDI checks out, so it's either the Sniper or the Hyperspark distributor that went cranky...very very odd.
But hey, all the brakes are bled...just need to find the brake adjuster tool for the rears now...
Had one of those afternoons - reinstalled the cluster, and then noticed the fuel gauge wasn't coming up anymore. Figured I'd somehow borked it in the process, so pulled the cluster out, started troubleshooting via the FSM. No 12V at the cluster...hmm. Pulled out the wiring diagram...12v feed comes from the heater circuit, and I had to borrow that fuse the other day. Very odd, Toyota...very odd. Put the heater fuse back in, and the cluster works again.
And now I'm chasing a starting issue for some reason...it'd been starting very well since the initial install, but I'd needed to adjust the timing curve up in the RPMs. Flashed that in this morning, but it did not like it for some reason, although I think it might have just had excess fuel from cycling the key to flash it. Either way, I put the old tune back in...and now I have *no* spark and no RPM signal. The coil/CDI checks out, so it's either the Sniper or the Hyperspark distributor that went cranky...very very odd.
But hey, all the brakes are bled...just need to find the brake adjuster tool for the rears now...
- Thread starter
- #147
Let the battery charge up just to rule that out, still no dice. Tested the hall effect sensor, and it does toggle when you sweep a feeler gauge through the window (or rotate the engine by hand), but it only goes between 12v and 4v...and it seems like most do a toggle between 12v and 0v. That 4v may be enough for the Sniper to not see it as a signal, hence the no RPM and no spark.
Won't know for sure until I get a hold of Holley to see what the actual specs are, but that info should be pretty helpful ahead of time to avoid a bunch of back and forth with them. Calling Holley in the AM - the phone says they're open until 10 CST, but when it went through to the ignition area, they were gone when I called at 6, so their hours must be out of date.
Won't know for sure until I get a hold of Holley to see what the actual specs are, but that info should be pretty helpful ahead of time to avoid a bunch of back and forth with them. Calling Holley in the AM - the phone says they're open until 10 CST, but when it went through to the ignition area, they were gone when I called at 6, so their hours must be out of date.
For the cluster you just bend the tabs back. It can be a bit of a pain, but a small pair of pliers seems to work well.
- Thread starter
- #149
Ooof...Holley says I need to send in the whole distributor, and they expect a minimum of 15 days after they receive it, but it could be up to two months based on workload. They wouldn't confirm what the low signal should be for the hall effect, only that they would also suspect the distributor at fault.
I ended up just ordering up a second/replacement, hopefully here in a few days vs waiting a month. I'll deal with the extra at that point...it can take months if needed. You'd think they'd want to just ship me a new sensor, given they're behind already on support...but I digress.
I ended up just ordering up a second/replacement, hopefully here in a few days vs waiting a month. I'll deal with the extra at that point...it can take months if needed. You'd think they'd want to just ship me a new sensor, given they're behind already on support...but I digress.
- Thread starter
- #150
Well, in moderately good news, distributor number two should arrive on Friday...hopefully that gets me running again after a bit of fiddly swap work.
Lots of little bits done today - installed the gas filler door (and lock), the kick vents, wired up the rear marker lights, adjusted the rear brake shoes, and finished the Rachel Ray(tm) Sniper adapter, including the offset threaded stud. Should do the deed.
Lots of little bits done today - installed the gas filler door (and lock), the kick vents, wired up the rear marker lights, adjusted the rear brake shoes, and finished the Rachel Ray(tm) Sniper adapter, including the offset threaded stud. Should do the deed.
- Thread starter
- #151
Roll bar blasted and painted...just waiting on some hardware to lock it down to the tub. The old tub had different fender wells, so the hardware was different.
Spare tire carrier back on, turned out pretty well for the beating they take in the salt here. There's still a tiny slop in the upper pin, but we'll see if it rattles once everything is together.
Replacement distributor in, and running well again. Waiting on a solid state regulator, but slowly getting the parts stash in the basement back on. Cooling system is all bled...so just waiting to solve the brake situation before starting to work the front clip. I re-bled them and didn't get any air, but the pedal takes one pump before they're good...second press and it's solid. Thinking it's just the rear shoes need more adjusting, but will troubleshoot more tomorrow by blocking off the rear soft line to isolate the circuit and see what I see.
Spare tire carrier back on, turned out pretty well for the beating they take in the salt here. There's still a tiny slop in the upper pin, but we'll see if it rattles once everything is together.
Replacement distributor in, and running well again. Waiting on a solid state regulator, but slowly getting the parts stash in the basement back on. Cooling system is all bled...so just waiting to solve the brake situation before starting to work the front clip. I re-bled them and didn't get any air, but the pedal takes one pump before they're good...second press and it's solid. Thinking it's just the rear shoes need more adjusting, but will troubleshoot more tomorrow by blocking off the rear soft line to isolate the circuit and see what I see.
- Thread starter
- #152
Finally got a good brake pedal...took several iterations of snugging up the rear shoes, bumping them in forward and reverse to get them seated, and re-adjusting. Each time, they'd seat a bit and loosen up a bit. I'm sure they'll need more as they bed in, but in the ballpark now.
Started working on the hardtop...had hoped I wouldn't need to split the rail from the fiberglass, but there's one small spot of rust that went all the way through near the rear doors...so it'll get split tomorrow. Materials (sealers, rivets, etc) all inbound...should arrive by the time they're needed.
And a record trek from the garage stall, all on its own...a good solid 50' or so.
For the short drive it was, it drove pretty well.
Started working on the hardtop...had hoped I wouldn't need to split the rail from the fiberglass, but there's one small spot of rust that went all the way through near the rear doors...so it'll get split tomorrow. Materials (sealers, rivets, etc) all inbound...should arrive by the time they're needed.
And a record trek from the garage stall, all on its own...a good solid 50' or so.
For the short drive it was, it drove pretty well.
Unless it is a really big patch, I'd leave it together. Just need to be careful of the fiberglass when trimming. What seam sealer are you planning on using? I'd highly recommend the 3M Self Leveling sealer. It gives a very factory look.
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- #154
I do have some self-leveling on the way.
Area is about an 8" section with a few holes, one running out to the lip itself. I do debate leaving it on, but leaning toward pulling it just to get things fully cleaned up and epoxy primer'd all the way around it. I don't think I need to pull the windshield lip, though, it's still pretty solidly in place.
We'll see as I keep poking away at it tomorrow.
Area is about an 8" section with a few holes, one running out to the lip itself. I do debate leaving it on, but leaning toward pulling it just to get things fully cleaned up and epoxy primer'd all the way around it. I don't think I need to pull the windshield lip, though, it's still pretty solidly in place.
We'll see as I keep poking away at it tomorrow.
Reriveting hard tops sucks. If you are going to pull it, I'd just cut the small section out and pop the rivets there.
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- #156
Punted on the hardtop for today, although I'm guessing the rail will come off...literally everything else has been blown apart at this point, why stop now. 
Got a good start on dunking the front clip on...looking more like a 40 every day. Aprons and hood to go on tomorrow...and then shuffling everything around to align it, fenders are just loose for now...here's hoping.
Got a good start on dunking the front clip on...looking more like a 40 every day. Aprons and hood to go on tomorrow...and then shuffling everything around to align it, fenders are just loose for now...here's hoping.
- Thread starter
- #157
Slow day, spent the morning chasing alternator/voltage issues. Doesn't seem to be the regulator - old mech, new mech, and new solid state all do the same thing. Bypassed all the regulator wiring, and still the same...so may indeed be something with the alternator. Ordered one up, they're reasonable enough...hopefully that helps as most other things are eliminated.
forum.ih8mud.com
Did get the windshield dropped into the frame - face down on a rug actually works pretty well if installing it solo...just hold the frame with your knee at the close edge to where you are, and you can work the rope starting from the other side. As long as you keep the close side bumped in (before it's actually seated, there's kind of a bump to it), it'll stay nicely centered with minimal fighting.
Dunked the aprons on loosely and prepped the hood as well...had to 3D print some hinge bushings. They turned out pretty good, and much better than the old ones. I did try using the ones supplied with the new door hinges pins (they're close), but between the paint and the replacement pins, they were just too snug for the hood hinges. Drivers side fender is looking pretty close...the pax side is going to fight a bit again, but that was also how it was during pre-fit...something just a bit off with that CCOT/Taiwan fender. It'll get there I'm sure, but it'll be slow going with paint to watch.
2021 Update on Solid State Regulators?
Searched a bit, but most threads are of a 2018 or older vintage...and it doesn't look like Wagner does the regulators for the '76 variety anymore either. Any other good candidates for a solid state regulator? I don't mind pigtail work, I've got a spare that I can use there... EDIT - cheap...
forum.ih8mud.com
Did get the windshield dropped into the frame - face down on a rug actually works pretty well if installing it solo...just hold the frame with your knee at the close edge to where you are, and you can work the rope starting from the other side. As long as you keep the close side bumped in (before it's actually seated, there's kind of a bump to it), it'll stay nicely centered with minimal fighting.
Dunked the aprons on loosely and prepped the hood as well...had to 3D print some hinge bushings. They turned out pretty good, and much better than the old ones. I did try using the ones supplied with the new door hinges pins (they're close), but between the paint and the replacement pins, they were just too snug for the hood hinges. Drivers side fender is looking pretty close...the pax side is going to fight a bit again, but that was also how it was during pre-fit...something just a bit off with that CCOT/Taiwan fender. It'll get there I'm sure, but it'll be slow going with paint to watch.
- Thread starter
- #158
Well, 317 days later and it's back to being a roadable vehicle again! There's a few little bits for tomorrow like badges and the antenna, but all in all it's back on its feet. Still chasing that voltage issue, though, so that's holding up drive #1 a bit until I get that sorted out better. I do need to sort out a plan for the new wheels and the spare tire carrier as well, but also small potatoes.
Only real major work left is the fiberglass top, but I should be able to knock that out in the next few weeks. It should be nice to have it as a driver for at least some of these remaining nice summer/fall days here, though...we didn't ever run it without the hardtop growing up other than a few months back in '88 when it was torn down the first time.
Only real major work left is the fiberglass top, but I should be able to knock that out in the next few weeks. It should be nice to have it as a driver for at least some of these remaining nice summer/fall days here, though...we didn't ever run it without the hardtop growing up other than a few months back in '88 when it was torn down the first time.
Goldbug
SILVER Star
Really impressive work, and fast! Great job.
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- #160
And it moved....2.2 miles on it, just a couple short laps around the park across the street to test its sea legs. So far, so good...some flat spots in the fueling here and there, but I'm sure that fuel map is still very much in learning mode. I'm sure the timing map will need tweaks too. But progress.
First press of the brakes is a bit soft after sitting, but they're fine after that while you're driving. Either some air, or the rears need to bed better and get re-adjusted. Neither seem too much of a big deal, I'll take it.
Alternator/amps are still odd, so just did the trip sans-charging since it was short. Some more troubleshooting parts on the way for Mon/Tues.
Oh, and the badges and plates are all on.
First press of the brakes is a bit soft after sitting, but they're fine after that while you're driving. Either some air, or the rears need to bed better and get re-adjusted. Neither seem too much of a big deal, I'll take it.
Alternator/amps are still odd, so just did the trip sans-charging since it was short. Some more troubleshooting parts on the way for Mon/Tues.
Oh, and the badges and plates are all on.
