F(Z)J80 v8 (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

Only cause you are a lover bro.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Here is some pics finally!

I actually am digging the steps/sliders. makes roof access way easy.

Had to paint this, got to represent!

The GM tre reamer I have been waiting on

My new and improved RLCA

I got a little artsy fartsy with it, notching the angle iron to wrap up and around the rod end.

Front Fox 2.0

Rears, ya I got the guard on them, have to on an 80!

old vs new bushing

Chevy brake light switch installed, only using for TCC at this time but other prongs can be used to set up cruise control

pile o' Toyota parts

All this stuff has to get installed in the next 2-weeks!

The arbor I made for pressing out bushings

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

RLCA, weldable primer before welding

ready for paint

Baja Designs light mounted up

Cheers

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Here is some pics finally!

I actually am digging the steps/sliders. makes roof access way easy.

Had to paint this, got to represent!

The GM tre reamer I have been waiting on

My new and improved RLCA

I got a little artsy fartsy with it, notching the angle iron to wrap up and around the rod end.

Front Fox 2.0

Rears, ya I got the guard on them, have to on an 80!

old vs new bushing

Chevy brake light switch installed, only using for TCC at this time but other prongs can be used to set up cruise control

pile o' Toyota parts

All this stuff has to get installed in the next 2-weeks!

The arbor I made for pressing out bushings

Cheers

I like the press addition. It was very awkward trying to hold control arms and keep the press going straight. And at the time cringing waiting for the "bang" when the bushing lets loose.

 

[GW Nugget]

Like the build & watching...
Like the color scheme.

 

[SNLC]

I like the press addition. It was very awkward trying to hold control arms and keep the press going straight. And at the time cringing waiting for the "bang" when the bushing lets loose.

100% on that, I hate using the press. It is kind of like a highlift jack when it comes to safety. I am always standing there pumping away picturing something shattering or coming out of there like a bullet. Some times it takes serious force before an item lets loose.

I don't know why I was trying to get bushing out without destroying them. They are toast anyways. Best method I found after that was to simply blow the center out of the bushing with the press. Then cut the sleeve with a sawzall, just deep enough to not go into the arm. It lets go real easy in the press then since it has some room to move. New bushing go in super easy using the Slee die but any old socket or piece of pipe would work.


New ign. barrel in last night, super easy once you know how. Mine was nearly 25yrs old with 250,000 miles on it so it was sloppy and starting to stick. Brand new now, stoked.

Fought with my rear brakes for awhile last night. Friggin' rotor just didn't want to come off. Once new rotors on not easy to fit new pads too! Really tight fit. And I forgot how much I dislike adjusting drum brakes, ie the parking brake.


With that all done, today I am starting on the cut & turn.

Cheers

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

^^ HA!

I build most of my presses and I am the same way... Once they start getting in a bind and really start to push... I put on my safety glasses, cover my nuts and chest and then relax once the press is made.. HA!

I build my stuff with a 4:1 safety factor... BUT!! YA NEVER KNOW!

J

 

[SNLC]

^^ HA!

I build most of my presses and I am the same way... Once they start getting in a bind and really start to push... I put on my safety glasses, cover my nuts and chest and then relax once the press is made.. HA!

I build my stuff with a 4:1 safety factor... BUT!! YA NEVER KNOW!

J

I so hear that, always worried about the face and balls! I wear safety googles and a face shield and put on gear too. Still sketchy. Last year I had a seized axle in a housing on my Pinzgauer. That is what we busted the arbor with. I took it to a local guy I know with a 100ton press after the 20ton was not getting it done. He put it in there, I hid behind a steel post and he went for it. Took 60tons but it came out rather than busting. Really dislike that kind of stuff. No probs just pressing in a new bushing or bearing or whatever but when something is seized and you are trying to get it out, it is sketchy.

Have not had much chance to mess with the bumper yet. That is coming up though after the cut & turn.

Cheers

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I so hear that, always worried about the face and balls! I wear safety googles and a face shield and put on gear too. Still sketchy. Last year I had a seized axle in a housing on my Pinzgauer. That is what we busted the arbor with. I took it to a local guy I know with a 100ton press after the 20ton was not getting it done. He put it in there, I hid behind a steel post and he went for it. Took 60tons but it came out rather than busting. Really dislike that kind of stuff. No probs just pressing in a new bushing or bearing or whatever but when something is seized and you are trying to get it out, it is sketchy.

Have not had much chance to mess with the bumper yet. That is coming up though after the cut & turn.

Cheers

No worries, I'm probably as anxious as you are to see it on the rig. HA!

J

 

[SNLC]

Alrighty, front axle is completely torn down. I knew I had some birfield soup on the RHS, spotted it about 3 weeks ago. Did not except to find sand int here though. Must be from last trip to the dunes. Cleaning everything up via my parts washer. Steering is all out too. Getting ready to pull the 3rd since it was contaminated by the soup. Clean it up and re-install. Hoping by tonight I am cutting the knuckle balls and rotating them. Looks like I need to move about 7*. I keep forgetting I have OME 3* castor bushing in my radius arms. Still even with those, I am at about 2.5* the wrong way!

If I get lucky, the truck will be back on wheels by tomorrow and I can take it for a test drive.

Cheers

 

[gahi]

are the OME ones in backwards? If you didn't install them might be worth double checking.

 

[gahi]

Here are my stock height measurements
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stock-drivetrain-measurements.445894/

 

[SNLC]

are the OME ones in backwards? If you didn't install them might be worth double checking.

Sorry but I do not understand what you mean. OME in backwards? What the shocks?

Cheers

 

[gahi]

The caster bushings. they can be installed in reverse, and cause the caster to go the other way.

I lifted 4" and needed 7° correction.

 

[SNLC]

The caster bushings. they can be installed in reverse, and cause the caster to go the other way.

I lifted 4" and needed 7° correction.

Ahh, wasn't sure exactly what you meant. Ya I am pretty sure they are in right. If they were the other way they would tilt the diff more forward. I went over that when I put them in and made sure they were right. Thanks for the link though, good info for a guy like me that didn't start with a stock truck.

I may have more than 4" of lift. I don't know because I didn't lift the truck. My front springs are unidentified. I am pretty sure it is about 4" though as I have the 863J in back and they give 4-5". Since my truck is level, I figure 4" up front is pretty close.

Checked castor again last night before the c&t. 2.5* forward, ie the wrong way. With the 3* bushings. Don't know what factory castor is, like 3* maybe? I am shooting for 4.5*. So if I have no bushings in, that is 10* I need to move. I will keep the bushings and am just moving in 7*.


And on that note, I got both steering arms reamed out, just need to do the pitman arm. Got one side cut and rotated to 4.5*, the other side is cut, just not turned yet. Plan to get them both rotated and welded up today. Then I should be on to re-assembly, after I re-pack everything with grease.

By the way, are you Gary in Moab? If so, that SD33T is helping get my Patrol SD33T rebuilt. Engine at the machine shop right now.

Cheers

 

[gahi]

ya, factory caster is 3*.

Yes, that's me. I'm glad your able to use it.

 

[GW Nugget]

You 1st page pics are all missing or the links are no longer good.

Just letting you know. I would like to see them.

 

[SNLC]

You 1st page pics are all missing or the links are no longer good.
View attachment 1013169
Just letting you know. I would like to see them.

Ya, I use FB for pics these days. Doesn't really work all that great.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Well, I have crested the hill and am on the downslope. Both knuckle balls have been cut and turned to 4.5 degrees. Both steering arms and the pitman arm have been reamed out to accept the GM tres. Every thing is cleaned up and de-greased. I have still got to cut off the part of the steering arms I don't need. Other than that it is just steering stops welded back on and assembly. Oh ya and the Y-link plus King damper when I get it assembled.



new brakes front and rear

axle torn down

the soup, oh ya soup!

After cutting and rotating the knuckle ball I double check it with several tools

got out my big machine for this

Here you can see how much I moved them, not much needed to gain 7*

polishing up the balls a bit

Ok so this is my first cut & turn I have done 100% solo. I made one big mistake which taught me a good lesson. That was I tried to cut the weld on my first knuckle rather than behind the weld. No idea why I thought I should cut the weld out. Maybe because it looked pretty damn hard to cut behind it under the coil perch. Cutting the weld did not work out and cost me a lot of time and frustration. In the end I welded it up and cut again right behind it. This worked out fine I just lost a bunch of time. Both knuckles rotated fairly easy. I probably checked them on angle 15x with three different tools before burning them on. I burned all the oil out of my cuts with a mapp torch before welding. I played around with my machine and it's settings doing test welds on 1/4" until I was happy with how it was laying beads. Once I actually welded them, they burned on awesome. Some of my best welds to date too which makes me real happy. The 212 helps a lot and makes me weld so much better. The reaming sucked badly and probably took me over 6hrs for three holes. It would have been so much easier in a drill press but I don't have one right now.

Tonight, I should be getting it all back together.

By the way just to be sure, I double checked my OME bushings as Gary mentions above. They are in the right way so I don't know why my castor was out so much compared to the normal 7*. Perhaps I just have more lift.

Disclaimer: If you copy me I am not liable or responsible in any way shape or form for the work you do on your truck.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

UMP 4" canister is so large I am going to have to re-locate my main battery to the back of the truck to where my 2nd will be.

Cans o' worms

Cheers