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- #121
F to 2F questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cgn1976
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- #122
Found a few threads about high altitude rigs. I'm always over 5000 in ABQ. People talking about the bb at the edge of the window being 13 or so advanced...I'm not quite that far, but close after adjusting it yesterday. Will run it some today there and see how she runs.
I do have a new vac gauge and haven't tried that route. I will today and see what I get.
I recently adjusted the idle mix screw farther out thinking that was doing more than just idle mix...not sure how I didn't realize based on the name of the screw lol, but I think that was causing some of the extra gas smell under the hood instated getting.
Lastly on the fast idle screw, I was confused by the comment about where it's located. Mine is on the fire wall side but it's on angle where you adjust it while standing on the passenger side. It faces sideways as opposed to facing upwards like the image I posted. I have been aware of it and adjusting it. More to follow later today.
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- #123
Ok, help me on this. Since the tdc line is left of the bb on the wheel, lining up the bb with the pointer in the window with the timing gun would be 7 advanced....without making any changes on the timing gun, making it advanced farther would push the bb left of the pointer in the window right?
Time to re watch how to use my damn tools videos!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Post pic of the carb! All 4 sides
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- #125
This is new...just now after 5 min warming up...choke off...is this what I think it is
What in that video is of concern? It's cold there bc my mom said it's snowing in Cruces right now. All I saw was exhaust on a cold day. Are you talking about the black spot on the driveway? That's from running too rich, which, again, suggests carb/timing needing adjustment.
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- #127
I've never see that much smoke out of this thing and I was panicking it was a head gasket. Just drove for 10 min and it stopped. Lol.
So I did find a problem. One of the little screws on the driver side top of the motor wasn't tight enough and was dribbling coolant down the side of the motor and onto the header. Think it was getting sucked in and then burning off as the extra white smoke! When I got the motor one of these was missing so i stole one of the square head type off my F and screwed it in. Hasn't leaked until this morning. Ground down a wrench so I could get it on there enough to crank it down...still seems like it's not
sealed. what kind of sealant is appropriate there? - update: coolant safe goop... I used the black Toyota FIPG for the water pump, so I'm using thatTweaked the timing again as well as the idle mix..almost eliminated the hesitation! Not completely but so much better!
Also that little oil passage that leak behind coil is leaking again. Gotta put some sealant on that and re-torque.
Roller coaster riding!
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- #128
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
This 1!! I believe is fast idle screw 
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Just dont go to crazy tweeking things youll get Confoosed 
youll get Confoosed
Someone may tell me I'm way out of bounds here, but you can use a little teflon tape on these fittings to help stop oil or coolant leaks. Very easy and effective.
Get all those leaks fixed and then try setting your timing with the vacuum advance hose plugged by a small screwdriver (so no vacuum advance even at idle) to 9 degrees above tdc. Reinstall the vacuum advance hose and, hopefully, should be idling well. After that, I'd adjust the screw pointing toward the passenger side in the last pic. Try adjusting it half a turn at a time, while keeping the timing around 9 and idle round 700 rpms and check if the hesitation goes away. That's what I'd do. Hopefully, it helps and doesn't lead you astray.
Get all those leaks fixed and then try setting your timing with the vacuum advance hose plugged by a small screwdriver (so no vacuum advance even at idle) to 9 degrees above tdc. Reinstall the vacuum advance hose and, hopefully, should be idling well. After that, I'd adjust the screw pointing toward the passenger side in the last pic. Try adjusting it half a turn at a time, while keeping the timing around 9 and idle round 700 rpms and check if the hesitation goes away. That's what I'd do. Hopefully, it helps and doesn't lead you astray.
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- #132
Just dont go to crazy tweeking things
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- #133
too late! I actually got had running good earlier. just need to seal up those 2 little leaks I mentioned
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Not the same screw
I am like the Atkins diet, I don't like carbs. I suggest just getting the Sniper considering you live in altitude. I was curious if the carb is under sized for the 2f? It is not much bigger but the 2f does have more displacement. Probably not, so sniper.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
You gonna leave us Hanging??? Hows it running 
??
??
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- #139
I'm like 99% there! Plugged those leaks and took a nice cruise. Once fully warmed up, no hesitation, full response on the throttle all the way through. While warming, the hesitation hits on the initial throttle still but its like a blip. A hiccup. Quarter second, then full power. If I choke it not even a quarter out while warming, it goes away. I'm happy.
Pretty sure it was the timing more than anything else. I thought was advanced more but pretty sure I was less than 7. Used the idea of the bb almost out of the window being 13 (from a high altitude thread).
I'm already back to the alternator upgrade project!
Pretty sure it was the timing more than anything else. I thought was advanced more but pretty sure I was less than 7. Used the idea of the bb almost out of the window being 13 (from a high altitude thread).
I'm already back to the alternator upgrade project!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I would call Mark and ask about the hesitation - it sounds like a fuel system issue to me.A week or so on and I'm still fighting this little hesitation issue right when I first hit the pedal. It only happens if I hit it full. If I ease into it, it's fine. It idles perfectly, and once it gets over the initial low rpm hard acceleration stumble, it's perfect.
Read a ton on vacuum leaks and carbs but every thread I've seen has a little different set of symptoms and nothing exactly like this.
I bought a vac gauge and it's sitting steady at about 16, which is a little low (read 18 when warm would be good). It's is very steady at 16. I've sprayed carb cleaner on every inch of the intake and it does nothing. Sprayed it everywhere there's a connection and potential leak and no change ever. Tried propane too. Nothing. Checked the hoses to booster, dizzy, pcv..all good.
Had Mark rebuild this carb a year ago. It was an 1983 aisin replacement carb for an F and per him was in fantastic shape. It ran perfectly on the old motor.
If I pull the choke about a third out, the hesitation thing goes away but overall it doesn't run quite as strong. I've been pulling the choke 1/3 when I get to stop on a hill and need a solid rev into the clutch so I don't roll back, then I push it back in. All other times I can feather into my acceleration and it's fine.
I also timed and and adjusted the mix screw multiple times per videos and threads I've found. The mix screw is probably about 2 turns at this point but has been in more and out more at various times.
Even replaced the intake/exhaust gasket (2nd one since new motor went in). I was worried about the header and intake not being perfectly flat. The one shop in town who could flatten them is out of business thanks to COVID. I have a jt header and used the thicker gasket...can't recall the name right now.
What about valve adjustment...can't imagine a freshly built motor from an experienced 2F shop would need this right?
Any direction is helpful. Spent the better part of a week trying everything I can and I'm not making any change. It's totally drivable but obviously after all of this it would be nice to get it
As for the valves, after you log a few miles (500? 1000?), you should retorque the head bolts and reset the valve adjustment.
And oil change at 500 miles...
