Extracting a Broken Easy Out ? (1 Viewer)

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Anybody got the goods on removing broken ez outs ? Broke the bolt off, drilled a pilot for the ez, put the ez out in and it sheared down in the hole. I tried drilling on it but my drill bits had nothing for it.
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Try a center punch and hammer. Strike the edge of the EZ in a clockwise direction and maybe it will come out for you.
 
Use a light hammer and tap lightly thousands of times to shake loose the ez out. Tap over the tip of where you inserted the EZ out, as long as it is broken off below the surface. After it loosens up, you can grab with needle nose pliers. Can maybe also tap BESIDE the hole if the tip does protrude. This will drive the bolt AWAY from the EZ out.

No, I'm not kidding. It works, I've done this numerous times and yes, the whole fiasco is very frustrating.
 
Use a light hammer and tap lightly thousands of times to shake loose the ez out. Tap over the tip of where you inserted the EZ out, as long as it is broken off below the surface. After it loosens up, you can grab with needle nose pliers. Can maybe also tap BESIDE the hole if the tip does protrude. This will drive the bolt AWAY from the EZ out.

No, I'm not kidding. It works, I've done this numerous times and yes, the whole fiasco is very frustrating.

Thanks. Will start tapping.
 
Tap it like suggested or you need carbide drill bits, one thing I've done on airplanes if there is room cut a slice down the broken easy out and try turning out with flat blade screw driver
 
I had this happen on my knuckle housing. I drilled a small hole in the center, then hammered a "sharp" flathead screwdriver head in the center of the hole until the blade was deep enough to turn it back out. Worked like a charm! :beer:
 
I did the same thing.....I wound up getting it out with a dental pick. See if there is anything left to hang onto. Spray it with WD 40 and let it sit for a couple of hours then try the dental pick on whatever you can hang onto.
 
It's the bracket in front of the condensor that the at oil cooler mounts to. Runs up behind the latch assembly.
 
x2 on welding it out. done and done.
 
Since you have a lot of room for easy access, try a carbide or diamond burr in a die grinder. Welding on a tiny captive nut in sheet metal is tricky and best accomplished with a TIG welder that you have a lot of heat control with. Never use an easy out on a rusted / corroded bolt that broke off while trying to loosen it. It is only for bolts that break from over tightening.
 
This is exactly why i dont use ez-outs any more... Weld it the first time and be done with it...
 
It's the bracket in front of the condensor that the at oil cooler mounts to. Runs up behind the latch assembly.

You are working quite near the condenser/rad, I would protect them and drill a new hole beside the broken stud, if there is sufficient material to work with, otherwise it is a lot of faffing around on one not exactly critical bolt IMO.

regards

Dave
 
Another alternative is to use a cutoff wheel and cut the welded nut off the backside of the sheet metal flange. Then use a clip-on nut in its place.
 
Use a dremel & cut a slot in it like the head of a screw, wd-40 & unscrew it.

You'll eat a few bits probably & as much as I weld a nut to extract, this sheetmetal area is tricky & with the coolers all right there. I'd try dremel / slot / screwdriver.
 

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