Not sure if anyone mentioned it or not, but I can't imagine going anywhere without a set of rear cargo drawers. I've had a set for about a year and a half and love them. Probably the best mod to my 80 so far. Picked them up from Mr. Slee.... 
Expedition (not rockcrawling) wheeling: relative value of mods for 80? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter e9999
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Mine is built for expedition type work:
Factory F/R lockers
CDL switch
2.5' OME heavy
265-75-16 BFG AT's (Summer) 285-75-16 Geolander IT's (winter)
ARB M12000 on front
38 gallon replacement tank
Slee headlight harness
HIR headlights
GPS
Custom raised sleeping platform
Wet okole seat covers.
My favourite mod is the 38 gallon tank. Can't begin to explain how nice it is to have 500 plus miles of range.
Next would be the OME lift, I don't actaully like the lift that much but the stiffer shocks and springs really help the ride and drive. Consider a suspension upgrade mandatory if you are going to carry enough gear and fuel for an expedition type trip.
Keep in mind that a stock locked 80 will go pretty much anywhere and expedition type wheeler would ever dream of. Add a lift and the tire of choice to run 99% of what was considered "hardcore" up to only a few years ago. Point of reference, the winch on my 80 has never been used to get ME out of trouble...
Factory F/R lockers
CDL switch
2.5' OME heavy
265-75-16 BFG AT's (Summer) 285-75-16 Geolander IT's (winter)
ARB M12000 on front
38 gallon replacement tank
Slee headlight harness
HIR headlights
GPS
Custom raised sleeping platform
Wet okole seat covers.
My favourite mod is the 38 gallon tank. Can't begin to explain how nice it is to have 500 plus miles of range.
Next would be the OME lift, I don't actaully like the lift that much but the stiffer shocks and springs really help the ride and drive. Consider a suspension upgrade mandatory if you are going to carry enough gear and fuel for an expedition type trip.
Keep in mind that a stock locked 80 will go pretty much anywhere and expedition type wheeler would ever dream of. Add a lift and the tire of choice to run 99% of what was considered "hardcore" up to only a few years ago. Point of reference, the winch on my 80 has never been used to get ME out of trouble...
My vehicle is kitted for touring africa. When touring I need to be self sufficient for up to three weeks at a time so this determines a lot of the things that one should have.
Mods to me rig.
1. Medium front lift with heavy duty lift rear. This is mainly to be able to carry the extra weight.
2. Dual battery system.
3. Rear drawer system
4. 74l fridge / freezer combo
5. 170l LR tank (in addition to the standard 100l tank) (must still do this)
6. Keep tyres standard. BFG AT. Any other size is hard to come by.
7. Rear wheel carrier that can take two spares. (must still do this)
8. Roof Top Tent
9. Fire extinguishers
10. Canvas seat covers
11. Electical lights
12. Removeable DVD player for the kids.
13. Safe
14. Pencil beam and spread spotlights
What one does not need IMHO when touring Africa
1. Rock Sliders.
2. Armour
3. Front lockers
4. Bigger tyres
5. Bumper (though it looks sexy so I got one)
Mods to me rig.
1. Medium front lift with heavy duty lift rear. This is mainly to be able to carry the extra weight.
2. Dual battery system.
3. Rear drawer system
4. 74l fridge / freezer combo
5. 170l LR tank (in addition to the standard 100l tank) (must still do this)
6. Keep tyres standard. BFG AT. Any other size is hard to come by.
7. Rear wheel carrier that can take two spares. (must still do this)
8. Roof Top Tent
9. Fire extinguishers
10. Canvas seat covers
11. Electical lights
12. Removeable DVD player for the kids.
13. Safe
14. Pencil beam and spread spotlights
What one does not need IMHO when touring Africa
1. Rock Sliders.
2. Armour
3. Front lockers
4. Bigger tyres
5. Bumper (though it looks sexy so I got one)
Very Nice Rig Bongani
That 105 has a solid axle in the front doesnt it?
That 105 has a solid axle in the front doesnt it?
CharlieS
GOLD Star
reffug,
Sorry to blast you.
I would never have thought use the term "expedition type wheeling" on my own to describe some of the driving I do, but it is as close a term as I've heard on this board. I defintely don't "rock crawl" that is for certain.
I do occasionally drive in the northeast kingdom of Vermont or northern Maine (the North Maine Woods comes to mind) on paper company lands which are miles sometimes hours from the nearest paved road. In Maine, most days you are lucky to see another vehicle and if on some off chance you do, it is usually a logging truck. Many of the roads are ex-skid roads that have been returned to nature and are overgrown two tracks. Some of the driving is places where only skidders go, so it is rough stuff.
This kind of driving may not fit in some definition of expedition wheeling, but I'll say for certain, you want 4 wheel drive and a lot of the modifications discussed here are very appropriate to these conditions.
Charlie
Sorry to blast you.
I would never have thought use the term "expedition type wheeling" on my own to describe some of the driving I do, but it is as close a term as I've heard on this board. I defintely don't "rock crawl" that is for certain.
I do occasionally drive in the northeast kingdom of Vermont or northern Maine (the North Maine Woods comes to mind) on paper company lands which are miles sometimes hours from the nearest paved road. In Maine, most days you are lucky to see another vehicle and if on some off chance you do, it is usually a logging truck. Many of the roads are ex-skid roads that have been returned to nature and are overgrown two tracks. Some of the driving is places where only skidders go, so it is rough stuff.
This kind of driving may not fit in some definition of expedition wheeling, but I'll say for certain, you want 4 wheel drive and a lot of the modifications discussed here are very appropriate to these conditions.
Charlie
As mentioned by others, reliability is the MOST important thing for obvious reasons. Following PM schedules is probably the best thing for peace of mind. However, where I wheel in a semi-arid climate, exposed rocks and downed trees make sliders an important addition. I would NEVER go off-road (at least where I wheel) without them because many times rocks would have eaten my rockers. Also, they are a good strapping point if you risk sliding sideways down a hill, etc. In any case, lockers and a good front/rear bumper with hooks will mitigate damage. Low speed wheeling at night would make you want to have a couple tractor (50 watt) lights. Winch is nice, but a good jack-all can do much of the work of a winch - just slower. In my truck I have a little Firestone compressor that pushes 0.6 CFM at 50psi, which, with a full 3 gall tank, I can simultaneously fill up two 265/75/16 tires from 18 psi to 35 psi in 3 mins.
Lastly, I always carry basic hand tools and an air impact for when things go wrong.
The only other thing I wanna do is make or buy a bigger fuel tank.
There are many things a person could do. I just find it hard to know where to draw the line...
Lastly, I always carry basic hand tools and an air impact for when things go wrong.
The only other thing I wanna do is make or buy a bigger fuel tank.
There are many things a person could do. I just find it hard to know where to draw the line...
Forgot to add. When overlanding one rather try to avoid the challenging obstacles and find a way around it. At times one can be as far as 3days drive of some form of very basic help. This is the last place to break one's vehicle. When trailing close to home then off course one would try the more impossible lines.
BOSTON MANGLER
-Beefier Suspension (had 6 people in the rig with gear) and it was sagging big time
Question: Would Bilsteins (ie. softer/ better ride) be a good chioce for shocks? This is because I do the majority of my driving on asphalt roads and dont want a really stiff shocks (ie. OME)
LATER MODS
-Heavy Duty Power Inverter
Question
Why power inverter?
thanks
-Beefier Suspension (had 6 people in the rig with gear) and it was sagging big time
Question: Would Bilsteins (ie. softer/ better ride) be a good chioce for shocks? This is because I do the majority of my driving on asphalt roads and dont want a really stiff shocks (ie. OME)
LATER MODS
-Heavy Duty Power Inverter
Question
Why power inverter?
thanks
Last edited:
Boston Mangler said:Very Nice Rig Bongani
That 105 has a solid axle in the front doesnt it?
Yea, with the solid front axle I feel more at home here with you 80 series guys.
dmc said:
Not to hijack the thread, but I read the posts about racks vs. trailers and understand both positions. I would have never thought I'd want a trailer either until I saw Henry Cubillan's (Exiled). Then it dawned on me how such a trailer could become another extension for the versatility of these trucks. We take these long trips with the kids and there is never enough room for all their sh!t, let alone mine. Then we see something we'd like to buy and I have to pay $200 to ship it home via UPS. Or we get to the beach or the mountains and everyone gets nasty and all the muddy or sandy gear funks up my truck. So....the trailer solves all that and more. I am still working on building it up but we have already enjoyed having it at the beach as sort of a base-camp. When I am done I will have jerry cans, room for a toolbox, and maybe even propane. I think its ideal for long-range trekking or weekends out camping.
Hants
SILVER Star
e, it sounds like we have similar goals. Here's the plan I've been working on:
- Phase I (basics)
o PM (fluids, belts, hoses, etc.)
o 33’s (AT/MT) x 5
o CDL
o Skid plate
o Breather extensions
- Phase II (additional protection, much improved ground clearance)
o Sliders
o 2.5” Medium
o Bumpers
- Phase III (the fun stuff)
o Drawers
o OBA
o Winch
o Snorkel
o Fridge
o Dual Batteries
o Fuel tank
Get you back:
- Keep up on PM (BEFORE the trip)
- Toolbox (I keep my TLC tools in the truck for PM and mods. If I need a tool from the garage, it gets added to the truck.)
- FSM (Tools & parts are useless without knowing what to do with them.)
- Parts & Supplies (WD40, brake cleaner, various oils, brake fluid, belts, air filter, some other parts)
- Emergency gear (fire extinguisher, flashlight, blanket, signal mirror, power bars, WATER, flares)
- Recovery gear (Hilift, chain, KERR aka yanker, winch extension line, tree strap, snatch block, shackles, shovel, saw)
- PAPER maps & compass (and ability to use them)
- Substantial First Aid kit
I've recently added a CB, but that is for club trips (where its required). Otherwise, I've found that FRS/GMRS radios work fine for short-range communication. Ham is great for long-range communication, but it requires Equipment and Experience and knowledge of local repeaters and isn't generally useful for short-range (few people have them).
Remember to file a plan with someone including "if we don't contact you by xxx, call out the cavalry".
- Phase I (basics)
o PM (fluids, belts, hoses, etc.)
o 33’s (AT/MT) x 5
o CDL
o Skid plate
o Breather extensions
- Phase II (additional protection, much improved ground clearance)
o Sliders
o 2.5” Medium
o Bumpers
- Phase III (the fun stuff)
o Drawers
o OBA
o Winch
o Snorkel
o Fridge
o Dual Batteries
o Fuel tank
Get you back:
- Keep up on PM (BEFORE the trip)
- Toolbox (I keep my TLC tools in the truck for PM and mods. If I need a tool from the garage, it gets added to the truck.)
- FSM (Tools & parts are useless without knowing what to do with them.)
- Parts & Supplies (WD40, brake cleaner, various oils, brake fluid, belts, air filter, some other parts)
- Emergency gear (fire extinguisher, flashlight, blanket, signal mirror, power bars, WATER, flares)
- Recovery gear (Hilift, chain, KERR aka yanker, winch extension line, tree strap, snatch block, shackles, shovel, saw)
- PAPER maps & compass (and ability to use them)
- Substantial First Aid kit
I've recently added a CB, but that is for club trips (where its required). Otherwise, I've found that FRS/GMRS radios work fine for short-range communication. Ham is great for long-range communication, but it requires Equipment and Experience and knowledge of local repeaters and isn't generally useful for short-range (few people have them).
Remember to file a plan with someone including "if we don't contact you by xxx, call out the cavalry".
Bongani said:
Mangler = Jealous! That was one of the main reasons, i went with the 80 and not the 100 series (we got here). If the 105 was readily available here, it wouldnt even be a question!
Congrats on a sweet rig!
Hants
SILVER Star
Bongani said:
I like the layout of the drawers. Do you have more info on them? Who built them?
Shahram
I ain't got herpes no more.
Great thread...hope this gives some perspective.
I have done quite a bit of "expedition" wheeling in my time, and the first eight or so years of it was in a 2WD Tacoma, stock with big-as-could-fit BFG KO's on it, and a lumber rack. There were PLENTY of times I wished I had 4WD, but never really wished for more clearance. Most people's priority in wheeling goes something like: traction, then clearance, then armor, then accessorize the s*** out of it, with reliability somewhere in there. I have a bit of a different approach. Mine goes like this for the Cruiser: reliability, traction, weight, fuel efficiency, clearance, accessorize to a bare minimum with a focus on economy. It's easy to get caught up in "mod envy", and we all have a bit of that. My main focuses have been:
1. Find a reliable Cruiser (reliability), maintain lovingly
2. With lockers (traction)
3. BFG AT/KO's, largest for stock height (keep fuel efficiency, don't change gear ratios, no lift needed, greatly increases traction, not odd sized)
4. Increase approach/departure angles and clearance by removing/moving/and at last resort, adding or replacing things (ARB bumper, Kaymar tire carrier, remove plastic/sidesteps/hitch receiver, turn cats)
Future mods will include a snorkel to minimize the effect of dust on the engine (reliability), minimal roof rack, better and lighter camping gear, long range gas tank, better shocks, some light skid plating, etc.
Most importantly, my experience with long-range off-road driving has endowed upon me a philosophy of "less is more". I want less stuff, more experiences, more time, more relaxation. More vistas. More surf. More remote villages. Less people. You get the picture.
The problem with most mods is that they are usually added stuff. Stuff is heavy. Heavy means less fuel efficiency, more wear and tear on suspension, engine components, and inherently less reliability. Yes, mods are really, really cool, but they come with a price, and not just at the counter.
Look at Land Cruisers driven in remote places that are NOT owned by European/Australian/South African expeditioners who mod the s*** out of their trucks because they feel it's necessary. Look at a working (as in "work") Cruiser in central or northern Africa. Chances are it will have very few mods: snorkel (req'd equipment), aux oil coolers for the elevated temps, aggressive tires, spare tire on rear door, roof rack. Emphasis on reliability, efficiency, and ability.
Some are shocked to find that the most common vehicle driving long distances with large payloads on the worst central African roads is neither the legendary Land Rover, nor our beloved Cruiser. It is the 4x2 Peugeot pickup.
How's that for an expedition vehicle?
So, (finally) to the point. Your Cruiser is perfectly suited, as is, for expedition use. With a few simple, economic modifications, your North American model 80-Series can go anywhere in relative comfort and has a world-wide reputation for bulletproof reliability. It is the most respected 4WD vehicle, worldwide, right out of the box, completely stock.
Whatever else you do to it is, well, just extra stuff.
I have done quite a bit of "expedition" wheeling in my time, and the first eight or so years of it was in a 2WD Tacoma, stock with big-as-could-fit BFG KO's on it, and a lumber rack. There were PLENTY of times I wished I had 4WD, but never really wished for more clearance. Most people's priority in wheeling goes something like: traction, then clearance, then armor, then accessorize the s*** out of it, with reliability somewhere in there. I have a bit of a different approach. Mine goes like this for the Cruiser: reliability, traction, weight, fuel efficiency, clearance, accessorize to a bare minimum with a focus on economy. It's easy to get caught up in "mod envy", and we all have a bit of that. My main focuses have been:
1. Find a reliable Cruiser (reliability), maintain lovingly
2. With lockers (traction)
3. BFG AT/KO's, largest for stock height (keep fuel efficiency, don't change gear ratios, no lift needed, greatly increases traction, not odd sized)
4. Increase approach/departure angles and clearance by removing/moving/and at last resort, adding or replacing things (ARB bumper, Kaymar tire carrier, remove plastic/sidesteps/hitch receiver, turn cats)
Future mods will include a snorkel to minimize the effect of dust on the engine (reliability), minimal roof rack, better and lighter camping gear, long range gas tank, better shocks, some light skid plating, etc.
Most importantly, my experience with long-range off-road driving has endowed upon me a philosophy of "less is more". I want less stuff, more experiences, more time, more relaxation. More vistas. More surf. More remote villages. Less people. You get the picture.
The problem with most mods is that they are usually added stuff. Stuff is heavy. Heavy means less fuel efficiency, more wear and tear on suspension, engine components, and inherently less reliability. Yes, mods are really, really cool, but they come with a price, and not just at the counter.
Look at Land Cruisers driven in remote places that are NOT owned by European/Australian/South African expeditioners who mod the s*** out of their trucks because they feel it's necessary. Look at a working (as in "work") Cruiser in central or northern Africa. Chances are it will have very few mods: snorkel (req'd equipment), aux oil coolers for the elevated temps, aggressive tires, spare tire on rear door, roof rack. Emphasis on reliability, efficiency, and ability.
Some are shocked to find that the most common vehicle driving long distances with large payloads on the worst central African roads is neither the legendary Land Rover, nor our beloved Cruiser. It is the 4x2 Peugeot pickup.
How's that for an expedition vehicle?
So, (finally) to the point. Your Cruiser is perfectly suited, as is, for expedition use. With a few simple, economic modifications, your North American model 80-Series can go anywhere in relative comfort and has a world-wide reputation for bulletproof reliability. It is the most respected 4WD vehicle, worldwide, right out of the box, completely stock.
Whatever else you do to it is, well, just extra stuff.
I didn't even know peugeot made a pickup.
Semantics aside on what constitutes "an expedition rig", I have come to see some things that are a must have on any extended road trip from my first stint in Tibet (4 weeks, with minimal resupply) be it an expedition, dirt road riding, or what ever word(s) describe your non-rock crawling fun.
1. Know how to work on your truck. Make sure it is properly mantained (things like wiper blades). You don't really need that many tools, but you need to know how to diagnose and fix your rig (BFH is really useful). Enough oil/rad fluid to replace all the fluids at least once. Other essential parts, set of plugs (although not necessary if you have a stove), fuel filter (unless you can blow hard enough), oil filter, belts, hoses, clamps. I am probably missing some stuff.
2. Recovery items. Many guys on here know better than me, but I now won't go out again with out a Hi-lift, funtionion bottle jack,1- 2 shovels, enough recovery straps to reach at least 100-150 ft safely, and something I haven't heard mentioned, two pieces of 2X8 lumber about 2 ft long. Great platforms for jacks in the mud when rocks are hard to come by. Half of this stuff and I could have saved myself two very long days and bit of my sanity that is now gone forever.
3. Good tires with at least one spare. A more common size is more useful than an odd size. Some ability to air up tires and patch is also helpful.
The rest is mostly fluff/comfort stuff that is dictated by where you go and the level of comfort you need. The extended fuel tank would be nice, and give you more range. Dual battery set up, properly isolated and charging would be great, but not mandatory (I will rig one soon though). I don't think that F/R lockers are necessary, just be smart about where you drive and know your limitations. Winch is nice, but not a must have necessary.
2¢ from the peanut gallery.
Ross
ps Bongani and Hilltopper, nice rigs
1. Know how to work on your truck. Make sure it is properly mantained (things like wiper blades). You don't really need that many tools, but you need to know how to diagnose and fix your rig (BFH is really useful). Enough oil/rad fluid to replace all the fluids at least once. Other essential parts, set of plugs (although not necessary if you have a stove), fuel filter (unless you can blow hard enough), oil filter, belts, hoses, clamps. I am probably missing some stuff.
2. Recovery items. Many guys on here know better than me, but I now won't go out again with out a Hi-lift, funtionion bottle jack,1- 2 shovels, enough recovery straps to reach at least 100-150 ft safely, and something I haven't heard mentioned, two pieces of 2X8 lumber about 2 ft long. Great platforms for jacks in the mud when rocks are hard to come by. Half of this stuff and I could have saved myself two very long days and bit of my sanity that is now gone forever.
3. Good tires with at least one spare. A more common size is more useful than an odd size. Some ability to air up tires and patch is also helpful.
The rest is mostly fluff/comfort stuff that is dictated by where you go and the level of comfort you need. The extended fuel tank would be nice, and give you more range. Dual battery set up, properly isolated and charging would be great, but not mandatory (I will rig one soon though). I don't think that F/R lockers are necessary, just be smart about where you drive and know your limitations. Winch is nice, but not a must have necessary.
2¢ from the peanut gallery.
Ross
ps Bongani and Hilltopper, nice rigs
Shahram,
Very well stated.
R -
Very well stated.
R -
I mainly do what I would call Expedition wheeling (i.e. heading into remote fishing lakes). That's what I'm building my truck for. Note I also end up wheeling alone (just one vehicle).
I think the following are important (no order implied):
front and rear bumpers don't seem that important to me (hence I don't have any).
Having said all that, I did enjoy rock crawling at Moab and would enjoy doing that again.
I think the following are important (no order implied):
- sliders
- MT type tyres (AT will do but in bad conditions, MT tyres perform better).
- dual batteries (mine is not wired in yet).
- real roof rack
- lockers
- skid plate
- OBA C02 (also good for inflating the float tube)
- reliable
- MT type tyres (AT will do but in bad conditions, MT tyres perform better).
- dual batteries (mine is not wired in yet).
- real roof rack
- lockers
- skid plate
- OBA C02 (also good for inflating the float tube)
- reliable
front and rear bumpers don't seem that important to me (hence I don't have any).
Having said all that, I did enjoy rock crawling at Moab and would enjoy doing that again.
Extra fuel
Spares
Tools
Self recovery equipment
Medical kit
I like to think of mine as an expedition set-up that likes rocks.
Spares
Tools
Self recovery equipment
Medical kit
I like to think of mine as an expedition set-up that likes rocks.
