Exhaust leak --> Blown CT26 --> GTurbo + intercooler (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Threads
5
Messages
100
Location
Golden, CO
I can't believe I'm posting another catastrophic failure thread, but...here I am. For those not in the know, I recently had an inexplicable H55f failure, remedied by a new unit built by @cruisermatt, which due to the freight company (YRC Freight)'s careless treatment, took two tries over two+ months because those rat ba——ds dropped the whole pallet off a truck and bent the input shaft of the first one, then denied any wrongdoing. Matt was great throughout the whole process and I'd highly recommend working with him.

I got to enjoy my truck for 2 weeks (and a sweet 2 weeks it was), and now it's looking like a blown head gasket—I was out, late at night replacing all my belts to try and fix a nasty squealing that appeared to be from my A/C belt (see here for a vid, sound really starts being audible at 0:26). After installation and confirmation that the squeal was gone, I noticed a puddle of coolant on the ground and figured I must have bumped or cut a hose, but couldn't find any leaks. So I started 'er up and noticed coolant absolutely SPEWING out of the oil pan gasket. My fear is that this is a blown head gasket, but this thread will document my troubleshooting/diagnosis & the eventual fix.

Ok, I'll first rewind a bit for more context. it's probably perfectly fine to skip by as it's a bit long, but I figured it was worth posting for all the possible context instead of a ton of back-and-forth. I've greyed it out so it's easy to skim past.
  • After my H55 R&R, I still needed to pass emissions, but was running a bit dirty (only test I need to pass is opacity). To remedy this I:
    • did valve clearances, which helped my startup/idle/running quality, but the tailpipe didn't clean up enough that I figured I'd pass.
    • I checked w/ a smoke machine for vacuum leaks, and fixed one very small one at the connection to the overboost warning light. Everything else was in great shape.
    • I had a boost controller (Halllman Pro) and EGT/boost combo gauge (Auber 24V combo) sitting around ready to install, so I figured I'd throw a bit of boost (NOT fuel) at it to clean up the tailpipe.
    • Before doing so, I pulled the intake piping and checked the radial & axial play on my ct26. I had zero perceptible axial play, and radial play so small that I questioned whether or not I was actually feeling it. There was a small coating of soot in the intake, but nothing that seemed unreasonable after 265k km.
    • Feeling good about the condition of my turbo, I installed the boost controller, figuring that I could just pass emissions and get road legal, then deal with the EGT and boost gauges when new exhaust manifold gaskets and studs (and some other parts to keep on hand) show up in a few weeks from megazip UAE and japan.
      • 1694021132349.png
    • I set boost by starting at zero > taking a test drive > turning up a half-turn > test drive > repeat until I hit the overboost light, then turn down a full turn for safety.
    • My fuel screw is still safety wired from the factory, so I know I'm not getting too much fuel.
    • I drove around town for a week or so, enjoying the extra pickup but not going crazy. After all was well, I wanted to finish off the old tank of diesel that had been sitting for a couple months while the transmission was replaced and get a new tank in before going for emissions again. I also knew that a bit of stress can help clean things up, so with beautiful weather on the horizon, my girlfriend and I decided on a trip up to twin lakes, near leadville. You can get some amazing last-minute campsites there if you have a capable truck and know how to use it.
    • IMG_1691.JPG
  • Our trip was totally uneventful, other than noticing a high-pitched whine around cruising speed right when the engine was unloaded. It didn't sound particularly worrying, very similar to the early stages of a belt squeal, but to be safe I wanted to check it out.
    • The cruiser pulled strong, easily holding 65 up&down I-70 to/from Denver>Leadville>Denver.
    • I was watching like a hawk the whole trip, and there wasn't a single sign of overheating (if anything it was running a tad cool), and as soon as I hit boost, my tailpipe was completely clean.
  • I had noticed while searching for the whine/squeal that there was a small puff of smoke coming from either under the valve cover/gasket or at the exhaust manifold, so I cracked the oil filler cap, did a blowby test, and there was zero identifiable blowby, even at higher RPMs.
    • This leads me to believe that, at a very minimum, my pistons and cylinders are sealing properly so hopefully I can check that off the list of possible issues.
    • this puff of smoke happens right as I get on the throttle, then disappears, and comes back (another small puff) when I lift off.
  • I noticed my top (a/c and alternator) belt had some cracking and was vibrating pretty bad, and the sound seemed to be coming from there, so I felt safe to continue driving the truck.
  • I drove around town a bit to run some errands—There was a small amount of white smoke that I began to notice from the tailpipe, but figured it was caused by the intake/exhaust leak that I found causing the truck to run lean. This is nothing major, only a puff, so I didn't worry too much, figuring it would clean up after I install the new manifold and intake gaskets that are on their way.
OK, now that the background is caught up, on to the current situation.

I replaced my belts and the tensioner pulley, an easy and uneventful job, and pulled the throttle cable by hand while in the engine bay to get the best listen and make sure that the squeal was gone. The squeal must have been from one or both, because even at higher RPMs, the sound seemed to be gone, but I'm now noticing a HUGE puff of white smoke that continues through the RPMs, coming from what looks to be either or both the valve cover gasket, and/or cylinder 1 exhaust manifold gasket. I turn the engine off and am double checking my belt tensions, when I notice a small puddle of coolant on the ground. I figured I must have bumped something during the belt install, but I check all the hoses, and can't find any wetness. Odd.

I turn the engine back on, and hop underneath the engine while it's running, and there's a stream of coolant coming from the front driver's side (RHD) corner of the oil pan. I figure I must have missed something, so I turn the engine back off and desperately search for a hose that's leaking, hoping that I just missed something on my last search, and that my worst fear isn't true—that my coolant and oil are now mixing.

My search proved unfruitful, so I gritted my teeth and started 'er up again. This time, it's more obvious that coolant is now SPEWING from the oil pan gasket. I immediately shut the truck back off, and take a couple days to try and forget about it and come at this with a clear head before I panic and spend a few thousand dollars on the wrong parts.

I need to leave to take a friend to a Dr.'s appt, posting now so I don't accidentally lose my progress. Will update shortly while waiting at the Drs.
 
Alright, continuing now:
- fast forward to today, I'm finally emotionally ready to actually diagnose this thing. The truck's been sitting since Saturday night(4 days), and i went out to do a quick start to get this on video to potentially help. Started perfectly fine, but bucked like crazy and I didn't feel comfortable keeping it running so the video's quick and i couldn't get a good vid of the coolant. This is the first time I've seen this bucking, it usually has 1-2 quick stumbles on startup, then settles into a nice idle. I may drain the oil pan until oil starts coming out clean, refill and try again briefly if more footage would help diagnosis but I'd like to circulate as little coolant through my oil passages as possible.

I've done some (a ton of) searching through threads on MUD, and here's my list of possible culprits, then my order of operations. I'm a perfectly passable tech (have done plenty of wrenching up to and including an engine replacement, but diagnosis is newer to me so I'm 100% open to suggestions or advice from those more knowledgeable/experienced.

Possible culprits:
  • Blown head gasket. This seems most likely to me, as I have white smoke and have recently turned up boost. Only thing that makes me question this is the sheer amount of coolant that seems to have been pushed until the oil system in such a brief period of time.
  • Plugged radiator or faulty radiator cap. Apparently this can over-pressurize the cooling system and force oil past seals that would otherwise be fine. I haven't had any overheating issues, and have also replaced the cap in the last 3-4 years so this would be surprising, but not out of the question.
  • Leaky oil pump.
  • Cracked Oil cooler housing.
  • Cracked head. Don't think this is particularly likely since I haven't had cylinder problems.
  • Water pump?
  • Turbo oil/water seals leaking. Ct26 is cooled by both water and oil so a failure here could cause mixing.
And here's my order of operations

  1. Borrow a combustion leak tester from autozone and check the radiator. Will reveal if combustion gases are mixing in the coolant. If it's this, it's head gasket or a cracked head. I'd do this after draining the oil system, but I want to check this before opening up any of the systems in case it could change the results.
  2. Drain oil until no more coolant remains, then refill. It's not 100% known that coolant is there, and confirming seems like a good idea.
  3. Compression test. I've got a HF compression tester, and would invest in a leakdown tester if that would tell me more. If it fails, it's either a gasket or (god forbid) a cracked head.
  4. Leakdown test if advisable. Failure indicates the same as above.
  5. Pressure test the radiator. I have the tool from working on my 944. If it fails, replace the rad.
  6. Check oil cooler housing, turbo, and water pump/t-stat for signs of leakage. If any show evidence, check first.
  7. Pull turbo and check for evidence of mixing or failed seals. Replace with GTurbo green wheel if failed.
  8. Replace water pump and thermostat and requisite gaskets.
  9. Pull oil cooler housing and check for evidence of failure. Replace if necessary.
 
For anyone reading, I'd gladly accept any other additions, suggestions or alterations to my potential causes and order of operations. Especially ones that don't involve pulling out the credit card...

I really wish I could just pull the engine and dive into a full rebuild to KNOW I'm fully healthy, but I don't have the space to DIY right now. I also just completed a multi-year rust repair and full respray followed by a new H55f and full driveline rebuild and also a full Dobinsons IMS suspension refresh so my cruiser fund is VERY low (by which I mean well into the negatives but I'm in too deep to cut and run on this truck and despite all the issues i still love this thing)

Also just gonna go ahead and page @DanS HJ-45 cause I know he's the local 12HT guru and hasn't steered me wrong yet.
 
Have you actually seen coolant in your oil?

I dont understand how you can leak coolant past your oil pan gasket.. in the absence of verified coolant in your oil it would seem more likely that its an Oil Cooler Cover issue or a welch plug. The oil cooler covers corrode from the inside out and leak dramatically very quickly.
 
Also I think those TK style coolant testers are worthless, I wouldnt bother. You're looking for large bubbles/smoke coming out of your radiator cap to determine a head issue .. but thats pointless to try if you've got coolant pissing onto the driveway at the moment.

Also.. the "Pull Oil Cover Housing" you've suggested doing is not for the faint of heart, this is a big job!
 
Have you actually seen coolant in your oil?

I dont understand how you can leak coolant past your oil pan gasket.. in the absence of verified coolant in your oil it would seem more likely that its an Oil Cooler Cover issue or a welch plug. The oil cooler covers corrode from the inside out and leak dramatically very quickly.
I haven't, but I hadn't seen those issues much in my search. I have the tendency to skip to the worst-possible situation and spend money and time before I really need to, so I wanted to be incredibly rigorous about this since the consequences for both the engine and my bank account are both so serious.

That said, it sure LOOKED like there was coolant coming directly from where the oil pan meets the engine block. I searched up and down the engine for evidence of more leaks and couldn't spot anything. My working theory was that the leak was bad enough it managed to pressurize the whole coolant system until it pushed enough into the oil system to break the gaskets seal... But I'm also as stated not a mechanic so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I'd love if it was something easier/cheaper like a welch or the oil cooler cover. If the testers are pointless, first thing I'll do when i get home is crack the drain plug open and confirm coolant mix before proceeding.
 
@duncanrm - THANK YOU for the advice. Drained some oil, and zero coolant came out. It took about fifteen minutes of prodding around the engine with a flashlight to find the source of the leak - looks like i loosened one of the clamps on one of the hoses going to the bottom of the thermostat housing too far while replacing the tensioner pulley, and the screw slipped out of its place. When i went to tighten it, it just bottomed out the screw without actually sealing it, while feeling plenty tight. Had to pull the whole tensioner assembly to get the damn thing back together because it's so tight in there.

IMG_1792.jpeg


I had a spare t-stat and gasket sitting around, so I did a boil test, confirmed both were opening at the correct temp, then reinstalled the older one after thoroughly cleaning manky old gasket off the t-stat housing/cover with a razor blade. Good to know my spare is functioning correctly when/if I need it.

I then refilled oil and coolant, started up the truck and ran it for a few mins. The puff of white smoke from the exhaust manifold/valve cover is still happening, but no coolant drops. Going to test again in the morning when i can see better, but things are looking good.

The hose itself was in poor shape (clearly overtightened by the PO since I haven't touched it), so I added a couple to my megazip order to replace now and have a spare for the future.

I'll post a video of the white smoke in the morning when i can get a good vid. Any insights there would be appreciated too 😂
 
@duncanrm - THANK YOU for the advice. Drained some oil, and zero coolant came out. It took about fifteen minutes of prodding around the engine with a flashlight to find the source of the leak - looks like i loosened one of the clamps on one of the hoses going to the bottom of the thermostat housing too far while replacing the tensioner pulley, and the screw slipped out of its place. When i went to tighten it, it just bottomed out the screw without actually sealing it, while feeling plenty tight. Had to pull the whole tensioner assembly to get the damn thing back together because it's so tight in there.

Super! Sounds like thats the thermostat bypass hose you're referring to.. It would be worth taking the time to replace this when time permits - and fresh hose clamps.

You've described a "puff of white smoke from the exhaust manifold/valve cover"... the video will assist - if this is coming out of the oil filler cap it sounds like blow-by gases - to be expected on an old engine, if its coming from the exhaust manifold maybe just an exhaust leak? Either way - it doesnt sound like anything really serious.
 
Super! Sounds like thats the thermostat bypass hose you're referring to.. It would be worth taking the time to replace this when time permits - and fresh hose clamps.

You've described a "puff of white smoke from the exhaust manifold/valve cover"... the video will assist - if this is coming out of the oil filler cap it sounds like blow-by gases - to be expected on an old engine, if its coming from the exhaust manifold maybe just an exhaust leak? Either way - it doesnt sound like anything really serious.
Yep I have another hose on order-found it on the parts diagram and didn't even look at the name. My megazip order was going to ship today, but I caught them last second and they were able to add it. Stoked to save the $35 in shipping.

It's definitely not from the oil filler cap but I do plan to check for blowby again tomorrow. What I can see is definitely coming from either the valve cover gasket or exhaust manifold. And I'd lean exhaust manifold if pressed. Good thing I already had the things on the way to fix it - i had plans to install my EGT and boost gauges already so new exhaust manifold gaskets and studs are on their way.
 
Video of the smoke puff is up here:

Looks like my squeal is back some too, if you recognize it as anything beyond belt squeal lmk
 
Can you pull your A/C belt off and try again - I am very suspicious of your A/C compressor.

edit.. ps engine sounds good!
 
Glad it sounds good! I've only ever seen one other in person so it's hard to have a baseline.

I pulled the ac and then also the ps belt. Still happening... Hard to believe it'd be the alt belt, i have that sucker pretty tight. Might be the actual alternator I guess.

Here's another video
 
Very odd.. I would just go ahead and pull the alternator/water pump belt off and retest .. the smoke/steam/gas occurs with the squeal.. I am convinced this is accessory noise and not engine/exhaust.
 
Very odd.. I would just go ahead and pull the alternator/water pump belt off and retest .. the smoke/steam/gas occurs with the squeal.. I am convinced this is accessory noise and not engine/exhaust.
That was my next step. It's enough of a pain to get back on and tensioned that I figured I'd see if you had any other steps to try first.

Really appreciate the help.
 
Whelp. Still squealing.

Also wouldn't shut off with the key without the belts on. Finally got it to shut off with this lil guy:
IMG_1812.jpeg
 
No alternator - no vacuum - no shut off..

So no belts - and still squealing? Any wiggle on the water pump?? Grasp the fan with both hands and rock it back and forth..
 
Oh good to know.

The water pump shaft, when grabbed by the fan clutch, has ~1-2mm of radial play would be my guess. No axial play whatsoever. Definitely perceptible but nothing insane.
 
OK puzzling.. you going to need to get eyes on where that smoke/steam is coming from.. I'm quite unsure whats going on at this time! Seems time to consider the turbo as the source of the noise - removing the intake to it and check for shaft play would be worth doing? Can you see it?
 
OK puzzling.. you going to need to get eyes on where that smoke/steam is coming from.. I'm quite unsure whats going on at this time! Seems time to consider the turbo as the source of the noise - removing the intake to it and check for shaft play would be worth doing? Can you see it?
I already had the intake off, and checked shaft play on the turbo. Nothing perceptible axially and almost nothing radially. I guess that doesn't mean that nothing is wrong with it, but it seems to be in good condition. I'll go ahead and pull the heat shields to see if that makes it clearer where this is coming from.

Time to get another friend over so they can work the throttle and I can do more investigating of where the steam is actually coming from.
 
IMG_1815.jpeg
Well, my exhaust manifold job just got a lot harder. Pulled the heat shields with no problem, and once the intake crossover was out of the way enough to pull off, I noticed this exhaust stud was just pre-sheared for me 😭

Nice and deep in there too.
IMG_1814.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom