I'm confused, is this the 1hz or the 1hd? Did the 1hd knock a bearing out too?
Excessively underpowered 1HZ + poor fuel economy (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Leitrum3
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- Thread starter
- #302
Oh, ha! Quite right. The 1HD-T is fine, I had mentioned previously that I was cleaning off the bench so I was finally going through parts on the 1HZ and sorting out what was salvageable and what was not. Since I'm trying to offload the 1HZ I thought it prudent to know for sure what was dead and what wasn't.
I probably shouldn't have pulled the 1HD-T into this discussion to begin with!
so... the 1HDT is fine and good and youre finally driving this truck around? I hope after all this work you are out having fun!
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- #304
Well...Almost! Per this thread, I'm hoping that starting tomorrow all of the above will be true. IP was way out of spec and the injectors needed a major overhaul, so I'm hoping that was the cause of a lot of my concerns. And it doesn't have to be perfectly dialed in, I just need to know that it won't implode if I start driving it regularly! And man, do I really need it to be drivable now, with all the rains we're getting up here this winter, I'm done driving my 40 year old bimmer to work every day like I have been...
This isn't tech, but with your comment about all our rain fall I just had to bring this up. My son just found on-line that Crater Lake has now broken the record for most snow fall that was set in 1948. The record was 198 inches, and it was beat by .7 inches. 198 inches is a lot, 16.5 feet!
Don
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- #306
Not trying to pull sales into this thread so I clipped the rest of the info, but this news happened today... 
Totally floored by this. Kind of a WTF moment, in a good way.
Totally floored by this. Kind of a WTF moment, in a good way.
Crazy news. Before the holidays I decided to bring the block, head, cam, pistons and crank by my machinist just to do a little due diligence (and really, I should've done this right away, but let's not get into that right now). He honed the block and checked it for spec, honed the head journals and the inspected everything else. The result was totally unexpected. The block is perfect and ready to get built back up and the head is not 100% perfect, but he says it is totally fine to run and he would if it were him. Full disclosure, it does have a couple of oil grooves but nothing that would significantly affect oil pressure. I haven't picked it up from him yet so no pictures until I do.
So at this point, I am now selling a 90-95% complete, rebuildable engine, not the parts (pause for dramatic effect).
It needs a cam still and...
I'm with Rosco check the bigends. Toyota was replacing 1HDT BEB at 100.000.
That's great news Leit! So you think all of the issue was just not priming the engine before first startup? That's really good to know for us newbies in the engine rebuild world!
Sent from my HTC One_M8
Sent from my HTC One_M8
- Thread starter
- #309
Everything got a little confusing when I added my second engine to this thread. I'm trying to stay on topic of the original 1HZ from here though. BEB's were replaced on both engines for the record.
I think it's impossible to know without any uncertainty, but from everything I've seen, researched, experienced and then shared with my machinist, we both agree that all signs point to oil starvation at the back of the engine. #6 rod is probably the furthest point for oil to get to from the oil pump so it makes sense for it to happen there. For both the Bimmer I built last winter and once I got ready to start the 1HD-T that had not been driven in some time, I borrowed my machinist's pre-oiling can. Perfect (or at least very good) oil pressure on both engines, I would highly recommend this sort of thing and I will use one on every build I do from here on out. To think I could've avoided all of the drama with one simple step.
The big question is now that the 1HZ is rebuildable, do I rebuild it and sell it or just off load it as-is? It's a bit of a crossroads as life has also presented a new opportunity and I might be going overseas for a few years where diesel cruisers are plentiful and I could maybe even bring one back with me (I'm thinking half cut a HDJ100!). I'd definitely keep my rig as it is now with a friend in Idaho who can run it occasionally, but that still leaves me the 1HZ. I have a little time before anything happens, like maybe 2 months, but is it enough time to re-build it to sell and is it a good idea? Not much machine work is necessary and the list of parts I need is small, but not insignificant. What I know I'd need is as follows: new camshaft, bearings, seals, gaskets, 1 con rod for #6, main crank pulley and bolt, water pump, timing belt and tensioner. Quick calcs puts that right around 2k. Maybe 2.5k total as I would have the machine shop do the short block for the bearing assembly warranty. Think I could get enough out of a sale to make it worth rebuilding vs selling as a project for someone else?
And to be honest, I've been asking myself if anyone would even buy an engine I rebuilt considering what happened?? It's a big decision so give it to me straight!
My take, unless you're going to run up a rebuilt engine to confirm everything is good, it's a gamble for any buyer given the history and you aren't going to get what you should for it because of this. Then consider the fact you're leaving the country should anything happen to the new engine once the buyer gets it installed, and don't think it makes the most sense to rebuild and sell. I'd sell as-is with the machinists opinion that the parts are good, and let the buyer worry about the rebuild themselves.
I agree sell it as is, with full disclosure. I do not think given the track record (of that engine) that you would get enough for it rebuilt to justify the effort.
- Thread starter
- #312
Hmm, yeah all good points. You've both confirmed what I've been thinking. If I don't get someone interested in the whole thing, I'll just put it in storage and build it up when we return in a few years, maybe build up a FJ60 or something for it. I'm confident that it would build just fine, but not being able to easily test run it without doing another vehicle conversion is the trick. And I'm not going to pull my current one just to run this one in now that I'm finally on the road!
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
lelandEOD
SILVER Star
I feel like I just sat through a prime-time drama; I'm sweating from nervous tension.
Wow. What a wonderful. awful. helpful. heartbreaking. thread.
Wow. What a wonderful. awful. helpful. heartbreaking. thread.
- Thread starter
- #314
I often wonder if I knew what was going to happen if I would have picked up the phone to call about an ad for a BJ60 some 12 years ago that set me on this path in the first place. And some years later if I had not casually let drop my aspirations to own a diesel 80 while at a friend's cruiser shop as he worked on my 60, he would not have introduced me to the owner of this rig, and thus the opportunity to experience everything you just read and more. This bittersweet journey certainly wasn't what I set out to do in the beginning, though it's what happened and I'm glad I took the time to document it all the way through. For the record, there were a great number of memories and stories that I didn't feel the need to share in this thread so don't think that every moment was fraught with challenges and heartbreak, but those moments don't make for a very captivating story!
In the end, I learned an indescribable amount about engine building and life in general, kind of my own personal version of Zen and the Art of Landcruiser Maintenance. Still, it's questionable if I'm any wiser, but definitely with more grey hair and a lot poorer. Most days I think I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
Leit
lelandEOD
SILVER Star
Awesome response.
I'm literally going down the exact same path as you and I've re-read this entire thread, front to back, at least twice and I try to avoid the landmines you partially uncovered for me and others. I will be very wary of oil pressure on initial start up. I may even rent or borrow some sort of pre-start oiler setup just to prime things.
The addiction is strong with us. I wish you were closer; we could form a support group.
I'm literally going down the exact same path as you and I've re-read this entire thread, front to back, at least twice and I try to avoid the landmines you partially uncovered for me and others. I will be very wary of oil pressure on initial start up. I may even rent or borrow some sort of pre-start oiler setup just to prime things.
The addiction is strong with us. I wish you were closer; we could form a support group.
torfab
Supporting Vendor
Leit
I’m glad it wasn’t all bad, hope I was able to be helpful. Thanks for meeting me for pizza in Amsterdam!
I’m glad it wasn’t all bad, hope I was able to be helpful. Thanks for meeting me for pizza in Amsterdam!
I think there is an assembly oil that will protect moving parts until the pressure builds. I spun mine around on the starter without the glow plugs installed until I saw oil coming up into the valve cover( and diesel coming out the glow plug holes) Didn't take long at all. Once it was running, I borrowed a gauge(should have done that first) and it was getting 60+ psi.
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lelandEOD
SILVER Star
I guess I'd feel better if Leit found a smoking gun that conclusively answered what went wrong... I've read the thread several times and the only thing I can come up with is that the #6 bearing cap must have been too tight.
My father learnt to rebuild truck and marine diesels in the army. He said you always spin the crank 360 degrees every time you add a bearing or connect something. I'm not sure if Toyota say that in the manual but it always sounded like good advice to me.
He said that one time as a crank was rotated it felt too tight, so it was a disassembled and they found a small piece of paper the bearings came wrapped in had somehow got between a bearing cap and the crank.
Reading this thread sent chills down my spine as i am dealing with a similar issue. Few days ago, i have finished rebuilding a my 1HDT after a catastrophic turbo failure which filled the engine with aluminum shavings from the compressor wheel. At this point, when trying to prime the engine with oil, in 5 second bursts with glow plugs and IP 12v disconnected, i get no pressure on the factory gauge (somewhat expected), the aftermarket madman multi gauge with a VDO sander installed into a sandwich adapter before the oil filter. furthermore, when i removed the filter, it is empty. Filled the oil pump with substantially more than the required 10cc and using a syringe, filled the passage prior to the oil filter.
Thoughts....
Thoughts....
