1HD-T Baselining - IP/Injectors (1 Viewer)

[Leitrum3]

Dealing with some smoke and high EGT issues on my recently installed 1HD-T (install is documented further here), I thought I would baseline some things to see if the issue would resolve itself. That, and I've been sorely disappointed by the performance of this thing. It doesn't really have much more pull than my 1hz did after I first rebuilt it - even after I replaced the stock turbo and put my rebuilt Grunter back on (though that did make a big difference).

Given the above symptoms and knowing the compression is 475 across and there is zero blow-by at idle, I'm getting after two things first:
1. Checking the pump timing (just got the tools in to do this, hopefully ), especially since I pulled off the ACSD.
2. Pulling the injectors and testing them since they were in unknown condition with potentially around 145k km on them.

I suspected the injectors correctly by the looks of it. They were an absolute beast to get out. This is the best looking of the 6. I could barely make out all the nozzle holes. Sorry for the poor photo quality.

I should've snapped some photos of the bodies, but you get the idea of how rough they looked based on this I'm sure.

Here's how they tested. Not awesome, which given how it was running, is awesome! Simple solution. Expensive though!

Just picked them up today and here's what I ended up with.

Those guys at Diesel Fuel Injection Service are the best and I highly recommend them. For reference, a rebuilt set of these with new nozzles ran me around $560.

Next is to take my newly purchased gun cleaning kit and vacuum the carbon and rust out of the injector holes. Then we'll see what difference these make!

 

[tweeek]

That seems extremely cheap. Where is this injector service shop?

 

[Leitrum3]

Is it? Not everything they do is cheap, but they've always seemed reasonable to me. I've had them rebuild a set of 1hz injectors and the 1hz pump and it ran me around $1500 I think. Receipt is in the car so I can't recall if the nozzles were around 60 and the service was 35 per injector, or the other way around but I can verify later. These are USD prices, the shop is in the north part of Portland, OR. Welcome to DFISPDX.com

 

[BCR4619]

560 is pretty cheap. It was about 900-1000 Canadian to get them done here. Maybe parts are cheaper down there.

I don't know what others have done, I didn't find this out until after but apparently each copper crush washer for seating the injector are not all the same even though it says on the Toyota parts sheet. I can't remember the size of mine but they were all the same thickness.

A local shop says to check before you replace as they have seen different sizes across all cylinders.

As for what they look like that's what mine looked like at 150k

 

[SteveJackson]

Is it? Not everything they do is cheap, but they've always seemed reasonable to me. I've had them rebuild a set of 1hz injectors and the 1hz pump and it ran me around $1500 I think. Receipt is in the car so I can't recall if the nozzles were around 60 and the service was 35 per injector, or the other way around but I can verify later. These are USD prices, the shop is in the north part of Portland, OR. Welcome to DFISPDX.com

Price sounds about right for what I've seen in a few locations across the country. Pretty new injectors are always nice! Looks good!

 

[absalom]

So? Did it make a big difference?

Sent from my SCH-I535

 

[Leitrum3]

I'll know tomorrow! Decided to do a bunch of stuff while I was installing. There are a lot of little things to do when you re-install injectors as it is. Pulled the glow plugs, vacuumed the injector holes. Took a gun brush to the injector hole, vacuumed it again. And then, vacuumed it one more time for good measure. I hate unnecessary crap in my engine!


Once the injectors were installed, I checked the pump timing-- WAY OFF! No wonder it was running terribly. Here's what I measured it out as:

Spec is 1.29-1.35. So yeah, just a bit retarded. Set it to 1.32, right in the middle. Manual says to check it 2-3 times, so you can be sure I checked it 4-5 times...

Also had to pull the oil filter which was majorly stuck on there so I need to pick up one of those before I can start it back up. Toyota will have one for me tomorrow afternoon so I might as well do a valve adjustment since it's dead cold, I just got the tool in the mail and I have a pile of shims on my bench. It's just too bad it's in the 30's right now!

 

[BCR4619]

hmmmm, It has different timing requirements around the world. But I think the majority of the engines around here are set to what it says in the book.

Where did you get the dial gauge from, I should check mine.

 

[absalom]

I'd also like to know where you got the dial gauge as well as the valve adjustment SST?

 

[Leitrum3]

hmmmm, It has different timing requirements around the world. But I think the majority of the engines around here are set to what it says in the book.

Where did you get the dial gauge from, I should check mine.

Hmm, well 95% of everything I've read has the same spec since I've never see the manual as mentioned in this thread so I'll just have to trust that 1.32 will be okay. And hell, it has to be better than 1.15! The only other variation I've found mention of was for a 70 series 1HD-T and it was a little lower at 1.18-1.24. This one came from a Canadian 80 series, which I thought were mostly being imported from Japan, right? I'm also not sure if my timing was off because of the ACSD removal or if it just needed to be adjusted but that's something I haven't read any definitive answers on yet and it's inconsequential either way.

Regarding the "SST", if you search the forum there are a bunch of discussions on this tool set and most point to this. However, I only bought this (or one that looked almost identical off amazon) as it was all that was really necessary to do the job. This is the thread and video I used for reference to do the job. how-to-time-your-1hz-1hd-t-fuel-pump-video

 

[absalom]

And the SST for the valve adjustment?

Sent from my SCH-I535

 

[Leitrum3]

Well, happy new year. I could've used a better start!

I had really been hoping for better results today. Once I got it started, cracked all the lines to get the air out and got it warmed up a little, it really doesn't feel a whole lot different. It just flat out feels and sounds out of balance to me. The only other things I can think of now are that maybe a main pulley or flex plate are out of balance, or... something more substantial on the inside. I also know there are probably traces of treated old fuel mixed with a fresh tank in there right now that I need to get through, but it doesn't seem like that would make it run out of balance like this with a vibration. And unfortunately I'm a bit apprehensive to run it much with it sounding like this so it's hard to put the miles on it. Too bad @torfab is so far away or I'd just bring it on by!

Open to suggestions!

 

[Leitrum3]

For reference, this is how it sounded when I first got it. I guess it does sound a little better to me, but still not quite right.

 

[Leitrum3]

So with all of my fretting and frustration, I decided to take it by a local shop that specializes in TDI's but has started dabbling in Toyota diesels. For starters, I had them run a compression test since I've never done this just to be on the safe side. The result was near perfect compression with all cylinders between 475 and 500. And then, in the process of fiddling with some things, they re-bled the fuel lines and miraculously it smoothed out. So all of my worries? Air in the lines. Confidence in the work I did swapping injectors and re-timing it per the manual, restored!

At the end of the day, it now runs smoother and quieter with dramatically less smoke and it's my new daily driver. For anyone who followed my misfortunes on my 1HZ rebuild, this is HUGE. 2+ years in the making.


Next steps will be to tune it to match the fresh injectors and Grunter turbo, since it's severely lacking in power still.

Couple questions on this for anyone listening. Yes, I know there are a few threads about tuning these things, but nothing comprehensive that I've found yet unless I'm interested in a fuel rod swap or some other mod. That may be in the future, but I just want a good tune for now. At the moment I have a 2 1/2" exhaust (need to double check, but I think that's right), and a brand new rebuilt Gturbo Grunter. Should've bought the extreme but this was for my 1HZ originally and I was going for longevity. With the turbo I'm seeing about 12-13 psi at max boost, but this turbo is rated for 14-20.

I'm struggling to accelerate up any steep highway hills, though I can hold about 45mph. Okay acceleration off the line, but not great. So I guess the big question is what first? I haven't adjusted the fuel since I got it, including when I put on the Gturbo. I haven't touched the boost compensator either. What's the order of operations for adjustments? Fuel screw? Max fuel screw? At what point do I need a new power rod? More boost? Changing the various adjustments in the boost compensator (is this still a go-to for adjustments?)? I can suss out procedure for the individual pieces, just not sure order to start with so help would be appreciated!

 

[IanB]

Did you read this?

The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread

It's the best source of info I've seen on the topic. Did G-Turbo send you a tuning guide with your turbo?

 

[absalom]

Here's what I've done so far with fantastic results: (Only do after installing EGT gauge)

1.) Install boost controller with a max boost of 14 psi. (I can help you with this if you have trouble hitting 14 reliably.
2.) Do this.



Instead of going to all the trouble of using the bike pump method, I simply test fitted after each adjustment. Once you hit the dip at the top of the aneroid, you're finished with this step.


3.) Next, do this.




I am about 75% fueling. Your final settings may vary greatly.


4.) Tune off boost screw on top of compensator. It's detailed in the above videos, but I usually leave this for last. Mine is on minimum as I don't like a bunch of smoke while at idle.


Voila! That's all I've done and it moves like I never thought possible. I can drive from Phoenix to Flagstaff, a particularly grueling uphill endurance drive at 85mph the whole way. Of course, I'd never do that as it's illegal, but you know.

 

[danakittilsen]

Next steps will be to tune it to match the fresh injectors and Grunter turbo, since it's severely lacking in power still.

Couple questions on this for anyone listening. Yes, I know there are a few threads about tuning these things, but nothing comprehensive that I've found yet unless I'm interested in a fuel rod swap or some other mod. That may be in the future, but I just want a good tune for now. At the moment I have a 2 1/2" exhaust (need to double check, but I think that's right), and a brand new rebuilt Gturbo Grunter. Should've bought the extreme but this was for my 1HZ originally and I was going for longevity. With the turbo I'm seeing about 12-13 psi at max boost, but this turbo is rated for 14-20.

I'm struggling to accelerate up any steep highway hills, though I can hold about 45mph. Okay acceleration off the line, but not great. So I guess the big question is what first? I haven't adjusted the fuel since I got it, including when I put on the Gturbo. I haven't touched the boost compensator either. What's the order of operations for adjustments? Fuel screw? Max fuel screw? At what point do I need a new power rod? More boost? Changing the various adjustments in the boost compensator (is this still a go-to for adjustments?)? I can suss out procedure for the individual pieces, just not sure order to start with so help would be appreciated!

It's true there are many Official threads on the individual components of tuning a 1HD-T. It would sure be nice to have something definitive on the proper process. And I don't mean an idiot's guide to diesel tuning.

Glad to see you smoothed out your running issues.

I'm about to swap out my injectors after 286k km (more like 294 after correcting for the 35s) and that's with experimenting with (mostly) Vegetable Oil and (about 3 tanks) of Hydraulic Oil (don't bother trying this). Pretty keen to see what mine look like.

Here's what I've done so far with fantastic results: (Only do after installing EGT gauge)

1.) Install boost controller with a max boost of 14 psi. (I can help you with this if you have trouble hitting 14 reliably.
2.) Do this.



Instead of going to all the trouble of using the bike pump method, I simply test fitted after each adjustment. Once you hit the dip at the top of the aneroid, you're finished with this step.


3.) Next, do this.




I am about 75% fueling. Your final settings may vary greatly.


4.) Tune off boost screw on top of compensator. It's detailed in the above videos, but I usually leave this for last. Mine is on minimum as I don't like a bunch of smoke while at idle.


Voila! That's all I've done and it moves like I never thought possible. I can drive from Phoenix to Flagstaff, a particularly grueling uphill endurance drive at 85mph the whole way. Of course, I'd never do that as it's illegal, but you know.

These two videos basically brought it all home for me. And clearly show what it is you are working with when you are adjusting your tune. Something that many of the threads leave up to text description, and FSM references, comprehensive as they are, not the best learning tool for all of us.

 

[absalom]

When you say they bled your fuel lines and got rid of the uneven idle, what technique specifically did they employ?

 

[rick_d]

Bleeding lines is a 2 minute process. While running, crack the injector tube at injector w 17mm wrench one at a time til ample fuel/air discharge. Try it a few times to get things right. #3 is pain as it is under the crossover tube.

 

[Tapage]

is pain as it is under the crossover tube.

and messy ..