ExCape Pod Build (pic heavy) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Josh N
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- Thread starter
- #22
A few interior shots. Not much to see. We will need to camp in it a few times to decide what else needs to be in there like additional shelves and such.
· Going in from the passenger side. Shows the box just inside the door that serves as a nightstand/pocket dump and platform to get in and out so you don't have a 1/8" aluminum edge up your backside.
· Custom sized mattress just slightly smaller than a queen by an inch or 2 but a lot bigger than a full.
· Ceilings left bare purposely in case a leak develops I can find it fast.
· Gotta keep cool in the summer. 10" fan for each side.
· Sliding door cabinets to keep them from opening while driving. Possibly adding a shelf in there down the road depending on what we discover we need.
· Going in from the passenger side. Shows the box just inside the door that serves as a nightstand/pocket dump and platform to get in and out so you don't have a 1/8" aluminum edge up your backside.
· Custom sized mattress just slightly smaller than a queen by an inch or 2 but a lot bigger than a full.
· Ceilings left bare purposely in case a leak develops I can find it fast.
· Gotta keep cool in the summer. 10" fan for each side.
· Sliding door cabinets to keep them from opening while driving. Possibly adding a shelf in there down the road depending on what we discover we need.
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TLC Norway
woodwelder
Good work there! Did you weigh it?
Will you have another hitch and telescoping bar later on?
Will you have another hitch and telescoping bar later on?
- Thread starter
- #24
Haven't weighed it. I would guess around 1100lbs based on other trailers i have had. Doesn't even phase my 80. Only notice it because it blocks the rear view mirror. No plan to extend or change the hitch at this point but needs can change over time.
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I like it
- Thread starter
- #26
And now, with the canopies attached:
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CycloSteve
SILVER Star
Keep adding real estate and you will need you own Zip Code.
Love the grill
What are the interior dimensions?
What are the interior dimensions?
Is the lean to canopy custom. Looks good. And the grill. Awesome. Good show.
- Thread starter
- #30
Not sure on the grill dimensions its a 100lbs propane bottle. The side canopies attach to roof racks on just about any suv. They are the kelty carport model.
Good looking trailer you got there.
Nice work! Plan to keep gravel spray from tearing into the trailer nose?
Please tell which hinge you have for the hatch and where you got it from.
Fantastic trailer!
Fantastic trailer!
Great job Josh!! Outstanding attention to detail!! Now go out and enjoy it!!
- Thread starter
- #37
- Thread starter
- #38
Love to, seems every occasion I have had to get going something else came up at the last minute that took a much greater priority
Cancelled 3 trips already since Feb. I will get out dammit, I will.
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Bumping a great build...On the fiberglass...did you just lay glass over some ACX plywood and float resin or epoxy over it on the outside only, or inside-out, for weather and rigidity? or are those engineered panels you glassed over for structure? I am still a bit cornfused about the whole fiberglass thing...if you could give us a bit more detail about that part of the build- materials used, steps, rough cost- I'm sure some other guys would also appreciate it.., ThanX
- Thread starter
- #40
All of the plywood I used was cabinet grade marine ply from a local boat yard. 3/4" for the sides, 1/2" for the floor and front wall, 6mm (1/4" ish) roof and back hatch. I used Raka epoxy and fiberglass: http://store.raka.com/6quartkit.aspx, Raka 900 - Medium Epoxy Resin / Raka 608 - Medium Cure; with Style 120 - 3.25oz (T) x 60 in -Fiberglass Cloth.
I glassed and epoxied the exterior of panels only. All the panels are either attached directly to the framework with bolts/screws or to one another with pocket screws from the interior. Once assembled all the joints were fiberglass taped and epoxied with 3 inch wide standard fiberglass tape and the same epoxy. When working with the individual panels before assembled I was limited on space so would do my 2 coats of epoxy on the glass (about 2 hrs between) and leave them overnight before moving them. Once the trailer was assembled and I was taping the seams I added an additional pump of hardener to the mix to prevent it dripping. Each mix with the standard ratio or the extra hardener ratio gives you about a 30 minute working time with this product line. 1 layer of fiberglass mat, 2-3 layers of epoxy depending on the surface (top got 4, front wall got 3 and then got painted and linex'd)
According to Raka while the epoxies are UV resistant, they last about 10 times longer covered with paint. I used an epoxy based marine self-leveling primer because it reacted well with the Raka epoxies. I don't remember the brand. For those who don't know and based on my research, marine fiberglass epoxies typically have adverse reactions with standard primers shortening the protective life of your coatings so your primer should be one rated for a similar application. 2 coats of primer overall.
2 coats of exterior oil based paint over the primer (1 gallon) of the tan. 3 coats of white http://www.lowes.com/pd_139941-29-5530-1-30_1z0uk7k__?productId=3013309&pl=1 reflective roof coating. Really does reduce the heat absorbed by the trailer. and finally had the front wall Linex'd. I had considered aluminum plate but anytime you add a plate over wood you run the chance of moisture getting between them and rotting it from the inside out.
Did I way over do it on weatherproofing? Hell yes. I am only building this once. All the fasteners are stainless or in the case of the larger ones galvanized. All wood materials are marine grade. Coatings are marine grade. I have the windows, roof vents and windows on the doors that I can open up for interior air circulation with (2) 10 inch fans that I can run from solar, battery pack or shore power. I store it inside when it isn't being used with the vents and windows open. Too many builds that I have seen use build techniques that make me wince and materials that I wouldn't consider for interior use let alone for a camper.
The fiberglass was not a structural reinforcement for me but another layer of weather proofing. You have to remember that if you are driving down the highway in the rain, your trailer is experiencing a hurricane literally. Water will get in if you let it. I was very leery of working with fiberglass at first but after watching the videos and reading as much as I could I came to the conclusion that the Raka products were the most user friendly and I found them very easy to work with. Hope that helps.
I glassed and epoxied the exterior of panels only. All the panels are either attached directly to the framework with bolts/screws or to one another with pocket screws from the interior. Once assembled all the joints were fiberglass taped and epoxied with 3 inch wide standard fiberglass tape and the same epoxy. When working with the individual panels before assembled I was limited on space so would do my 2 coats of epoxy on the glass (about 2 hrs between) and leave them overnight before moving them. Once the trailer was assembled and I was taping the seams I added an additional pump of hardener to the mix to prevent it dripping. Each mix with the standard ratio or the extra hardener ratio gives you about a 30 minute working time with this product line. 1 layer of fiberglass mat, 2-3 layers of epoxy depending on the surface (top got 4, front wall got 3 and then got painted and linex'd)
According to Raka while the epoxies are UV resistant, they last about 10 times longer covered with paint. I used an epoxy based marine self-leveling primer because it reacted well with the Raka epoxies. I don't remember the brand. For those who don't know and based on my research, marine fiberglass epoxies typically have adverse reactions with standard primers shortening the protective life of your coatings so your primer should be one rated for a similar application. 2 coats of primer overall.
2 coats of exterior oil based paint over the primer (1 gallon) of the tan. 3 coats of white http://www.lowes.com/pd_139941-29-5530-1-30_1z0uk7k__?productId=3013309&pl=1 reflective roof coating. Really does reduce the heat absorbed by the trailer. and finally had the front wall Linex'd. I had considered aluminum plate but anytime you add a plate over wood you run the chance of moisture getting between them and rotting it from the inside out.
Did I way over do it on weatherproofing? Hell yes. I am only building this once. All the fasteners are stainless or in the case of the larger ones galvanized. All wood materials are marine grade. Coatings are marine grade. I have the windows, roof vents and windows on the doors that I can open up for interior air circulation with (2) 10 inch fans that I can run from solar, battery pack or shore power. I store it inside when it isn't being used with the vents and windows open. Too many builds that I have seen use build techniques that make me wince and materials that I wouldn't consider for interior use let alone for a camper.
The fiberglass was not a structural reinforcement for me but another layer of weather proofing. You have to remember that if you are driving down the highway in the rain, your trailer is experiencing a hurricane literally. Water will get in if you let it. I was very leery of working with fiberglass at first but after watching the videos and reading as much as I could I came to the conclusion that the Raka products were the most user friendly and I found them very easy to work with. Hope that helps.
