Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (1 Viewer)

[jcardona1]

I suspect this happened when it contacted something above it that your bump stop failed to prevent. I know you probably doubt that but mechanically it would be very difficult to bend that much from stress induced by the tie rod. Clearances are wacky sometimes when all twisted up...

No that makes sense, but there is nothing that would touch the Hellfire steering arm itself. There's no marks on it aside from where the paint cracked. Doesn't matter if it's fully stuffed or drooped, wheels turned either way. Worst case scenario would be the tierod touching the pitman arm at full stuff and wheel turned to the left. The downward force of that could be transferred to the Hellfire arm. But if that did happen I would expect to see some scuffs on the top of the tierod or orange paint rubbed onto the bottom of the pitman arm. Nothing, they're both perfectly clean. Also, wouldn't you think the tierod would bend before the Hellfire arm?

This is the max interference. I set the height of the shocks about a 1/2" below contact

 

[jcardona1]

Steering is turning out to be a pain! Aside from the bent Hellfire arm, right before we started on the trail I noticed a clunk in the steering. Checked things out and noticed the Y-link TRE was completely loose. The nut backed off and sheared the cotter pin.

Luckily I had an extra castle nut so I put 2 nuts on it and went wheeling. I'm not sure if Ruffstuff's Y-link adapter got trashed or the pin on the TRE itself. But this is actually my 2nd y-link adapter from Ruffstuff. The first one had a bad taper on it. Called them yesterday and they actually discontinued it because they had a lot of complaints with it. Great. So now I need to redo the steering. I'm also done with Ruffstuff's s***ty Chinese 1-ton TREs. They turn to slop after a few thousand miles. If I need TREs I'll get them from Parts Mike. Or better yet, here's what I'm planning on doing:

Since I have to get the Hellfire arm repaired I'm going to cut out the TRE inserts I welded in and replace them with 3/4" inserts for heims. I'll use Ruffstuff's 7/8" heim tierod kit (I think their heims are decent, just stay away from their TREs). This is about $112

Now, since I need this to be a Y (inverted T) steering setup and because Ruffstuff discontinued the y-link adapter, I'm going to run a Freddilink from EMF. This welds directly into the 1.5" 0.25" wall DOM tubing. BUT, I'm not going to get this with a 1-ton taper. I'm going to opt for a straight 3/4" hole. $25

https://cdn3.volusion.com/***qe.vhnqa/v/vspfiles/photos/2351-2.jpg

The draglink will still connect to the pitman arm using one of the extra high-angle TREs from Parts Mike (removed from the tierod). The draglink will then attach to the tierod and the Freddilink using EMF's monster heavy duty TREs. These are stupid expensive for a TRE, about $105 ea. They're not your ordinary TRE though. These have a 3/4" straight pin instead of the 1-ton taper. So I'll have no more tapers to worry about, easier to remove without having to pry the damn things loose. They're rebuildable and serviceable so if they develop and slop you just have to tighten the cap. So I'm hoping this will help tighten up the overall steering feel.

https://cdn3.volusion.com/***qe.vhnqa/v/vspfiles/photos/TREHP0.75HD-2.jpg

EMF Tie Rod Ends just got better! Do you have an application that requires a straight bolt to go through? No problem!! We took out the tapered pin and developed a straight "Hat Pin" as we like to call it. Eliminating the need for a separate bolt, the Hat Pin incorporates a 3/4" straight Pin which takes the place of the bolt, giving it total strength built all into one. The "hat" gives some space between the mounting surface and the joint to allow maximum deflection.

THIS IS A HIGH-DEFLECTION PIN USED FOR DRAGLINK APPLICATIONS (KNUCKLE TO STEERING BOX). This specific 3/4" High Deflection pin has a deflection rate of 29 degrees one way, making the total amount of deflection 58 degrees.

Available in a 7/8"-14 Shank (Heim Joint Thread), a 7/8"-18 Shank (Tie Rod End Thread), or a 1.0"-18 TPI - Left-hand and Right-Hand threads available and features a 3/4" straight pin. All components of our Tie Rod Ends are made in house from a billet 4140 Chromoly and coated with zinc, aside from the pins which are coated with a black liquid nitride to ensure the best possible wear and corrosion resistance. You should be able to go many years without needing to replace any of the internal components. Unlike any other Tie Rod End on the market, EMF's TRE's are serviceable, greaseable and REBUILDABLE. If you ever start to feel a little slop in the joint, you just tighten the cap. If you ever have to replace the inner components, you just have to buy a rebuild kit!

All EMF Joints are available with our Patent-Pending Technology that will ensure all inner components of any of our EMF Tie Rod Ends, Rod Ends or Ball Sockets will remain in place, thus, not allowing the back locking cap to loosen. ** Added pressure and friction on the joint will generally cause the cap to back off, resulting in play within the joint and wear on the internal components - We have solved this issue. See our Friction Testing video Even if the set screw and threaded cap back out completely during your trail ride, you can still run with the joint in place and not have to worry about the inner components coming loose - which ensures you have time to get back to camp without having to make a trail fix. It also ensures that you have a longer wear of your components because it reduces the ability of the joint to have premature play.

 

[9780LC]

Is it possible that the right side flexed up, the left side flexed down and the tie rod end pulled it down and bent it down pulling it from below because it ran out flex but the right side kept pushing it down.....bending it?

 

[jcardona1]

Is it possible that the right side flexed up, the left side flexed down and the tie rod end pulled it down and bent it down pulling it from below because it ran out flex but the right side kept pushing it down.....bending it?

I really don't think so. The limit straps are set to about 1/2" before the shocks reach full extension and the whole suspension was setup with everything cleared based on shock travel. I really think it was the blank hole in the Hellfire arm that created a weak point. I should have just welded in a solid insert to avoid the big gaping hole in the arm.

 

[AMMO]

I really don't think so. The limit straps are set to about 1/2" before the shocks reach full extension and the whole suspension was setup with everything cleared based on shock travel. I really think it was the blank hole in the Hellfire arm that created a weak point. I should have just welded in a solid insert to avoid the big gaping hole in the arm.

Curious what Billy said when you contacted HF...

 

[jcardona1]

Curious what Billy said when you contacted HF...

Said he's never seen it happen before, but thinks I should be able to straighten it out, weld an insert and call it a day.

 

[nukegoat]

No that makes sense, but there is nothing that would touch the Hellfire steering arm itself. There's no marks on it aside from where the paint cracked. Doesn't matter if it's fully stuffed or drooped, wheels turned either way. Worst case scenario would be the tierod touching the pitman arm at full stuff and wheel turned to the left. The downward force of that could be transferred to the Hellfire arm. But if that did happen I would expect to see some scuffs on the top of the tierod or orange paint rubbed onto the bottom of the pitman arm. Nothing, they're both perfectly clean. Also, wouldn't you think the tierod would bend before the Hellfire arm?

This is the max interference. I set the height of the shocks about a 1/2" below contact

What's it look like when turned all the way to the right with that tire stuffed? What about with both tires stuffed?

 

[nukegoat]

+1 on the cheap tre from ruffstuff. They suck. Inverted t steering will always feel a bit more numb than crossover, unfortunately.

 

[jcardona1]

What's it look like when turned all the way to the right with that tire stuffed? What about with both tires stuffed?

With the wheel stuffed and turned to the right the tierod actually drops a few inches away from the pitman arm like so:

I don't have pics of both wheels fully stuffed but this is the height at which I set the bump stops. And so far I've only felt them contact once on a trip a few weeks ago, confirmed by the paint rub on the bump pads. I really can't imagine the bent arm was caused by some sort of contact. And I say that because everything is rattlecanned and the paint would quickly show where something made contact. There's no marks on top of the tierod anywhere, nor on the pitman arm. So I'm not sure what else that leaves.

 

[nukegoat]

With the wheel stuffed and turned to the right the tierod actually drops a few inches away from the pitman arm like so:

I don't have pics of both wheels fully stuffed but this is the height at which I set the bump stops. And so far I've only felt them contact once on a trip a few weeks ago, confirmed by the paint rub on the bump pads. I really can't imagine the bent arm was caused by some sort of contact. And I say that because everything is rattlecanned and the paint would quickly show where something made contact. There's no marks on top of the tierod anywhere, nor on the pitman arm. So I'm not sure what else that leaves.

Yeah that doesn't look like a problem. Ok I stand corrected. Even with that hole, the hf arm shouldn't have bent. So much steel...

 

[luk3mik0]

Kick ass Jose!!! I'm gathering materials for my rack right now, picked up the tubing and 90* bends. Ordered 6 mounts from Gaventi ... think thats how you spell it. Gonna start build thread soon. Your an inspiration man.

where do you get the 90 bends? or do you have them bent for you?

 

[jcardona1]

where do you get the 90 bends? or do you have them bent for you?

I had a local shop bend them for me

 

[warezdog]

I had a local shop bend them for me

You mean to tell us that you don't have a rouge fab bender????!!!

 

[jcardona1]

You mean to tell us that you don't have a rouge fab bender????!!!

I do now!

 

[baldilocks]

Said he's never seen it happen before, but thinks I should be able to straighten it out, weld an insert and call it a day.

Straighten the arm? Why not a free replacement or at least half off? I would venture to think that something else should have given up before that arm.

 

[warezdog]

So you didn't have the "beef" to bend them or were you missing the dies to do so?

Also why the heck haven't you thrown a harbor freight air over hydraulic on that bad boy yet?

 

[jcardona1]

Straighten the arm? Why not a free replacement or at least half off? I would venture to think that something else should have given up before that arm.

That's what I was hoping to but he just said to try and get it fixed.

So you didn't have the "beef" to bend them or were you missing the dies to do so?

Also why the heck haven't you thrown a harbor freight air over hydraulic on that bad boy yet?

He's replying to an old post about my roof rack, didn't have a bender at that point. And hydraulic is for pussies or guys that run a shop doing bends all day

 

[baldilocks]

That's what I was hoping to but he just said to try and get it fixed.



He's replying to an old post about my roof rack, didn't have a bender at that point. And hydraulic is for pussies or guys that run a shop doing bends all day

Straightening it will cause "work hardening" causeing the arm to become weaker. the more carbon the steel contains the easier it becomes brittle. I am surprise he did not offer you a new arm.

 

[AMMO]

Straightening it will cause "work hardening" causeing the arm to become weaker. the more carbon the steel contains the easier it becomes brittle. I am surprise he did not offer you a new arm.

I was thinking the same thing... The more you heat bend and heat again the weaker it will become... Kinda like bending up a credit card till it snaps.

 

[solidfrontaxle]

Straightening it will cause "work hardening" causeing the arm to become weaker. the more carbon the steel contains the easier it becomes brittle. I am surprise he did not offer you a new arm.

Work hardening increases strength.