Evidence of water pump and timing belt replacement (1 Viewer)

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My relatively new-to-me LX has 145k miles. It’s unknown whether the water pump and timing belt have been replaced.

No sticker. No maintenance records. No history on Lexus owners. Seller was an agent of the PO who was sick.

This forum suggested some inspection points and looking for tool markings on the nuts.

Does the timing belt look like it has life left?

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Shows signs of disintegration….Change it for peace of mind if nothing else….

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And assuming these nuts are some of the right ones, do they look like they have been worked on? First a couple overview shots…

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And the close ups…

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Btw there are no water pump leaks at the bottom weep hole.

Any other places to look for evidence of a replacement? Much thanks.
 
I think the belt and pump had been changed some years ago.

Just for kicks and comparison purposes. Here's a Tacoma 5VZFE V6 timing belt on the left compared to Honda V6 belt from a Pilot, Odyssey, Ridgeline on the right. Both belts follow the same recommended change schedule. Both belts have over 100,000 miles. I think our 2UZFE belts are even wider than the 5VZFE.

Which belt would you rather be running?

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The belt itself can last a long time, the water pump and various idlers and pulleys it runs on cannot last forever. Any rattling chatter sounds from under he hood upon startup?
 
I believe a 2002 is a non-interference engine.At worst you will be inconvenienced if it strips.Most failures occur at the smallest gear,usually at the crankshaft.The lack of a sticker is a little confusing.Checkon the Lexus website and see if you can access the service records….
 
No indication of the type of belt on it?
When did the vehicle hit 90k?
For me it is cheaper to have the peace of mind that its all fresh. I bought my lx a year ago and replaced tbelt and wp the day after I picked it up. Picked the parts up on the way to p/u vehicle.
Gave me that peace of mind to drive it 15k over the past year all over the US.
 
When ever in doubt, change the damn belt. Most engines the belts do not show signs before failures. The internal support threads just give out. I keep this '91 Camry belt to show customers. Fortunately, for this owner the engine is a non-interference type.

2 types of people with timing belts. The ones that have broken one and lost a motor and the type that just don't know the pain. It is a maintenance item like your oil, not worth being cheap on any of it.

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2 types of people with timing belts. The ones that have broken one and lost a motor and the type that just don't know the pain. It is a maintenance item like your oil, not worth being cheap on any of it.

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non vvti engine are not interference engines
 
Here's my two cents. Mileage may not be indicative of the condition of the belt. The vehicle is 20 years old. If it hit 90,000 after only 5 years, assuming the belt was replaced at that time, that means the belt is now 15yrs old. In rubber years, that's dead. Dry rot is a thing. Additionally, that's a long time for the water pump seals and bearings, and the tensioner and idler pulleys to be on there. I'd also take a look at the fan pulley bracket, that went bad on mine at about 190,000 miles and led to my last timing belt job.

Get the Aisin kit, and change the belt.
 
I get it. I get it. When in doubt, change the belt. I'm not questioning that wisdom. I think really what I'm trying to learn is this:

Can assessing the condition of the belt and looking for tool marks around the water pump provide reasonable evidence that parts have been replaced? And are there other things to look for? Here's what I'm concluding so far...

Most engines the belts do not show signs before failures. The internal support threads just give out.
OK, this is helpful. I shouldn't rely on the physical appearance of the belt.


The belt itself can last a long time, the water pump and various idlers and pulleys it runs on cannot last forever. Any rattling chatter sounds from under he hood upon startup?
No rattling as far as I can tell, but thanks, I'll keep this in mind.


non vvti engine are not interference engines
This took me down the deep rabbit hole and I feel a little better mine is a 2002. Based on this forum and other informal sources of 2UZ info, the majority vote seems to align with 3_puppies... but no, I don't want my car to be a test case!


No indication of the type of belt on it?
When did the vehicle hit 90k?
Hit 90k about 2014. The parts of the belt that were visible did not have any markings. What would I be looking for?


What hasn't been commented on are the tool markings in the photos I provided earlier. To my naive eyes, the nuts around the water pump seem to have been undone. Is that good evidence of a replacement? Are there reasons for removing those nuts other than to replace the water pump? Just trying to learn. Thanks.
 
you can't see the water pump from outside, the front needs to be taken apart to get at the waterpump
 
you can't see the water pump from outside, the front needs to be taken apart to get at the waterpump
Oh sorry. I was referring to any nuts "around" the wp, not necessarily "on" the wp, that would need to be removed for a wp replacement.

In any case, I do see that those nuts have markings on the "clockwise" end meaning obviously they were installed. But there are no markings on the "counter clockwise" end that would mean they were removed. I think I answered this myself... I need to change the tb and wp!!!!

 
The belts does not really show signs of dry rot which really really bad belts do show. This is not the case in your case. However as others have said its better to change the belt and components and get a peace of mind. The nuts you show do not give any proof the the TB is changed..

If you are going to be doing the timing belt then take a look at your radiator as well.. does it look brownish instead of black/grey on the top (cant see from your pics). if that is the case then you probably can change the radiator with it as well. Another peace of mind maintenance item.

Although if you have 2002 then at worse it will inconvenience you but nothing serious will happen to your engine.. But why take the risk.
 
If you are going to be doing the timing belt then take a look at your radiator as well.. does it look brownish instead of black/grey on the top (cant see from your pics). if that is the case then you probably can change the radiator with it as well.
Does a brown top radiator mean it’s original? And new OEM radiators are black/grey?
 
the black discolors over time, the more non black it is, the chances increase of a failure
 

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