Builds Eureka - a 1974 Factory Soft Top FJ40 preservation

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Alright, charge light for the alt is wired, (to L on alt connector, then switched 12v) so the alternator wiring should be finished. One step closer to getting this running

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Ok quick wiring question for anyone who's done an alternator upgrade to an internally regulated/ 1 wire/3 wire setup.

The white/blue wire that's usually connected from the alternator to the ammeter (-). I have bypassed the ammeter, and connected the white to white/blue directly. When the battery is hooked up I have power so that confirms the bypass works, but do I need to connect the other end of the White/blue to anything? Seems weird to leave that open, and I still have a lot of accessories not working (gauges, lights)

Right now it's just chilling in its unused plug by the alternator. Obviously the other wires go to the voltage regulator that is no longer hooked up so those are unused.


I have my 2AWG for the charging wire to the battery. Should this terminate somewhere?

 

[pb4ugo]

I capped the White blue wire that went to the alt and tucked/taped into the harness and connected the white wire to the batt with a fusible link. I added a wire from the alts sensing terminal to an idiot light on the dash.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

I capped the White blue wire that went to the alt and tucked/taped into the harness and connected the white wire to the batt with a fusible link. I added a wire from the alts sensing terminal to an idiot light on the dash.

Ok that's what I have going on in mine already, just wanted to verify this particular end of the White blue remains unused. Once I unwrap this side of the harness I'll put it out of the way as well.

Thanks!

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

I have working headlights!

My problem was the switch. It's that weird illuminated '74 switch that's impossible to find so I needed to try and fix it. Resistor/dimmer had a blown connection, so I soldered it back up and we're in business.

Also took the opportunity to do the H4 upgrade. Just had the local dealer parts counter order it in for me. It's only $23.05 right now and was incredibly easy to install. Nice to have these running through relays now instead of just the switch.

I think I'm going to order another couple sets for the 45 and my other 40 while it's available and so cheap.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Ok here's a perplexing puzzle with the lights.

Have everything hooked up and here's what I have.

Headlights work. High and low beam, but no dash lights, no other lights that should be lit (driving lights etc).

Reverse lights work.

Hazard switch works, but only flashes the passenger side front and rear, no side markers, no driver side at all.

No turn signals at all (again except as hazard, and only passenger).

Brake lamp works only on passenger side.

All lights are tested good.

What do?

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Ok cleaned up the fuse panel really well with a wire bore brush, and was able to get my driving/dash lights. (My dimmer repair on the light switch also works which is cool).

So heres what I've got

Driving lights, front and rear

Dash lights

Passenger brake lamp

But still only flashing on the passenger side with hazard and no action from turn signal stalk.

 

[charliemeyer007]

So you cleaned/inspected the bulb sockets and added a good ground wire. Use a VOM to see if the socked is getting power - could be a broken wire or a bad connection in a plug up the line.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

So you cleaned/inspected the bulb sockets and added a good ground wire. Use a VOM to see if the socked is getting power - could be a broken wire or a bad connection in a plug up the line.

Well, I did trace the driver side brake lamp to a broken pin in the female plug. So I found that. Going to re-do the plugs for the taillights with fresh connectors.

Still no idea on turn signal switch, I know the flasher is good bc of hazards, I'm going to clean it as best I can without pulling the steering wheel, and see if I can get anything

 

[charliemeyer007]

Back in the 90's I took apart my turn signal switch. There was massive burnt away plastic around the corroded copper contact and the top sliding copper connector was weak I filled the missing plastic in with MicroBed gun stock epoxy, then sand the area flat. I re-arched the copper connector and cleaned the contacts -. then put it back together - work fine for 30 years - I think i need to pull it apart again and rebuild the hazard switch too. Plus inspect and clean every plug.

 

[Goldbug]

Does your horn work? It's a little fuzzy but I remember some surprising links between lights and other parts of the electrical system. Like everyone else will tell you, check your grounds. Also, the dimmer I believe is technically called a "rheostat". On my '78, I spent 2 and a half hours trying to get my instrument lights to illuminate, and turns out I just needed to turn the headlight pull clockwise. I forgot that our fancy vehicles had dimmable interior lights. By doing that, you may give more power to the lights, which could help.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Alright, fresh connectors wired up for the taillights, and I now have both brake lamps.

Still only passenger side flasher, and only on hazard switch.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Does your horn work? It's a little fuzzy but I remember some surprising links between lights and other parts of the electrical system. Like everyone else will tell you, check your grounds. Also, the dimmer I believe is technically called a "rheostat". On my '78, I spent 2 and a half hours trying to get my instrument lights to illuminate, and turns out I just needed to turn the headlight pull clockwise. I forgot that our fancy vehicles had dimmable interior lights. By doing that, you may give more power to the lights, which could help.

The horns themselves don't work (I have them off cleaning at the moment) but the relay does. The horn circuit (GR) is linked to the Brake lamp circuit (same fuse)

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

All my lights work now!

After removing my steering wheel to get to the turn signal switch, but finding it reasonably clean, I decided that maybe appearances were deceiving with the hazard switch. It looked immaculate on the outside, surely it wouldn't be the issue.

Wrong.

Here's what I found when I pulled it apart.

Gave them all a nice cleaning,

some dielectric grease on the slidy bits, popped it back together and voila,

It works, turn signal switch works too.

One fewer thing to sort now.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Well done.

 

[RevISK]

Ignitor. Someone else posted this recently.

View attachment 3675186

That was me!
Glad it helped someone else. It was off of my colleagues '75.
He omitted it and it solved some demons. YMMV.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

That was me!
Glad it helped someone else. It was off of my colleagues '75.
He omitted it and it solved some demons. YMMV.

I ended up bypassing it as well, and I'm likely going to go to electronic ignition anyway so not needed, but glad the info was there.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Heater hooked back up with a new shutoff valve and I even got the previously frozen cable working!

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Also, maybe a little premature to start getting into aesthetics, but I'm waiting on parts, so I made myself a radio block-off plate out of a piece of Western Red Cedar, and did some wood burning on it to turn it into a name plate.

Eureka, CA is very near the Redwoods Nat. Park so this seemed appropriate.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Little bit of time away from Oregon back in West Virginia getting the house ready for our move.

Came back to some parts I ordered and got right back to work.

New Ohmite L50J1R0 Resistor for the blower motor, and I have a blower fan again! Both speeds work great.