Thats nice. Where did you source it?
Builds Eureka - a 1974 Factory Soft Top FJ40 preservation (1 Viewer)
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- #142
Digikey
Never heard of her
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- #144
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- #145
Moved her to the garage over the weekend just in time for rainy season.
Still trying to get her to start after 35years sitting. This is the closest I've been yet since fiddling with the timing a bit.
Thoughts? I have spark.
Compression isn't great, but assuming it will get better if I can get the engine started, and get the rings warmed up and freed.
Fuel is a question. There is definitely fuel, but possibly too much? Looking down the carb there appears to be a pool of gas in the intake. Float does work and is set properly so not sure why that much gas would be sitting there.
Still trying to get her to start after 35years sitting. This is the closest I've been yet since fiddling with the timing a bit.
Thoughts? I have spark.
Compression isn't great, but assuming it will get better if I can get the engine started, and get the rings warmed up and freed.
Fuel is a question. There is definitely fuel, but possibly too much? Looking down the carb there appears to be a pool of gas in the intake. Float does work and is set properly so not sure why that much gas would be sitting there.
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- #146
Compression numbers....
1. 35psi (odd because it tested at 90 a few months ago)
2. 50 psi (a few months ago was zero, but had stuck valves that I freed)
3. 125 psi (good)
4. 55 psi
5. 30 psi
6. 90 psi
Could these be this low from sitting/ sticky rings/ valves or am I cooked?
I have looked in each plug hole with a boroscope and everything looks fine, valves all open and appear to close.
This is the first time I've tested anything past #2 when I tried a few months ago and found the stuck valves.
Going to fill the cylinders up with mystery oil again and see what happens when it works for a bit.
1. 35psi (odd because it tested at 90 a few months ago)
2. 50 psi (a few months ago was zero, but had stuck valves that I freed)
3. 125 psi (good)
4. 55 psi
5. 30 psi
6. 90 psi
Could these be this low from sitting/ sticky rings/ valves or am I cooked?
I have looked in each plug hole with a boroscope and everything looks fine, valves all open and appear to close.
This is the first time I've tested anything past #2 when I tried a few months ago and found the stuck valves.
Going to fill the cylinders up with mystery oil again and see what happens when it works for a bit.
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- #147
Well here's an interesting one.... While I was cranking on the starter today I heard an electrical pop and suddenly my throttle cable started smoking while the starter was engaged!
Thinking I popped the ground strap that goes from the starter bolt to the frame and it decided to ground through the throttle cable instead!
So replacing that ground has gone to the top of the list. Glad I didn't burn anything down or fry anything else.
Thinking I popped the ground strap that goes from the starter bolt to the frame and it decided to ground through the throttle cable instead!
So replacing that ground has gone to the top of the list. Glad I didn't burn anything down or fry anything else.
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- #148
Confirmed. Engine ground gave up. New 4awg cable to a newly drilled tapped and polished part of the frame and no more smoky throttle cable!
Check your grounds!!!
Check your grounds!!!
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- #149
She's ALIVE!
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- #150
And now she's starting up from the fuel pump. We're in business!
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- #152
Ok so the engine starts up consistently and easily.
However, idle is a different story. When it starts up the engine is revving like crazy probably like 3k rpm or more.
Carb is a Holley 2300. I rebuilt it a few months back. Idle adjustment screw is backed ALL the way out it's not even touching the throttle.
I'm checking for vacuum leaks, but can't find anything.
Why would this engine be racing like crazy?
However, idle is a different story. When it starts up the engine is revving like crazy probably like 3k rpm or more.
Carb is a Holley 2300. I rebuilt it a few months back. Idle adjustment screw is backed ALL the way out it's not even touching the throttle.
I'm checking for vacuum leaks, but can't find anything.
Why would this engine be racing like crazy?
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- Thread starter
- #153
Nevermind, fully timing and tuning, and the fact that it's open header so it's insanely loud.
Put the timing light on and got the idle down to about 1100, but really need to play around with it more (preferably with a muffler on as soon as possible)
Put the timing light on and got the idle down to about 1100, but really need to play around with it more (preferably with a muffler on as soon as possible)
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- #154
Transmission and transfer case all mated back up with fresh seals and gaskets. Ready to go back in the rig.
Very much not looking forward to this job. Anyone have any tips or tricks?
Very much not looking forward to this job. Anyone have any tips or tricks?
The times I have done it, I rolled it on a furniture dolly under the truck and then used an engine hoist through the trans hump opening to lift.
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- #156
That's my plan as well.
how did you rig it to hoist reasonably level? Not sure where the center of gravity is on this cumbersome thing
I used some rope and adjusted as I went to get it the correct angle. The major weight is the transmission so I rigged that primarily with a tail line back to the low part of the transfer case.
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- #158
Did you have to undo the rear motor mounts to angle the engine down like I've read some others had to do, or were you able to get around that?
Sorry, I don't recall.
After pulling the trans/xfer once and reinstalling (as you are), I now pull the engine/trans/xfer as a unit and reinstall from the top. Do you need to pull your engine for any other reason?
