1/4s are on my to do list. 25+ years ago I cut what was left of the POs sheet metal over rotted out metal. I patched it with aluminum and conveyer belt corners.
It looks not too bad to the floor and the rest of the tub I previously fabricated.
Builds Eureka - a 1974 Factory Soft Top FJ40 preservation
- Thread starter DailyDrive_FJ45
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
1/4s are on my to do list. 25+ years ago I cut what was left of the POs sheet metal over rotted out metal. I patched it with aluminum and conveyer belt corners.
It looks not too bad to the floor and the rest of the tub I previously fabricated.
- Thread starter
- #102
Passenger side cut out, and rear bed trimmed square. still need to make the quarter patch and sill cover.
- Thread starter
- #103
All new cooling hoses fit up, still need to pick up clamps and new hose for the heater circuit, and fab up some sort of fan shroud.
Block-side heater pipes polished up nice!
Block-side heater pipes polished up nice!
- Thread starter
- #104
More quarter panel fit up today. Got a set of these butt weld clamps and I gotta say they're pretty handy.
This one is pretty much ready to weld up, that will wait until I have all the patches ready to go so it can all go in at once.
This one is pretty much ready to weld up, that will wait until I have all the patches ready to go so it can all go in at once.
- Thread starter
- #105
And a freshly rebuilt Holley 2300 Ready to go back on once I get my new headers and gasket. I love rebuilding carbs, they go together like a lego set.
- Thread starter
- #106
Forgot I had a perfectly good (if slightly crusty)
gear reduction starter sitting on the shelf, so decided to toss that on there and replace the good, but crustier original starter.
gear reduction starter sitting on the shelf, so decided to toss that on there and replace the good, but crustier original starter.
- Thread starter
- #107
Passenger side patch work today.
- Thread starter
- #108
I now have working brakes. 
Replaced all the hoses (3/4 had completely swollen shut), only had to remake two hardlines due to frozen fittings. Front from the master to the center hose, and rear from the elbow to the hose.
No leaks now, pedal nice and firm. I'm astounded the wheel cylinders seem to work after sitting for so long. Not going to mess with them for now. I want to get this running and moving so I can move it to the garage for brake overhauls
Replaced all the hoses (3/4 had completely swollen shut), only had to remake two hardlines due to frozen fittings. Front from the master to the center hose, and rear from the elbow to the hose.
No leaks now, pedal nice and firm. I'm astounded the wheel cylinders seem to work after sitting for so long. Not going to mess with them for now. I want to get this running and moving so I can move it to the garage for brake overhauls
- Thread starter
- #109
@Engineer8000 this question is for you since you seemed knowledgeable about these before.
I think I figured out why my cali-smog igniter module is not working. Comparing pictures from another thread of the circuit board I appear to be missing two diodes (or resistors???).
Do you know what these are and how I would find replacements?
Mine:
The comparison:
I think I figured out why my cali-smog igniter module is not working. Comparing pictures from another thread of the circuit board I appear to be missing two diodes (or resistors???).
Do you know what these are and how I would find replacements?
Mine:
The comparison:
I have not studied this particular igniter but those are sintered glass diodes, probably GE-509 or similar. I imagine you could replace with any 1N4007 1000 V PIV diode, or something like these:
www.digikey.com
Check to be sure the transistors are not shorted. Those diodes didn't blow out on their own. Trace out the circuit diagram to see what they are actually doing in the circuit.
SF5408-TAP | DigiKey Electronics
Order today, ships today. SF5408-TAP – Diode 1000 V 3A Through Hole SOD-64 from Vishay General Semiconductor - Diodes Division. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
Check to be sure the transistors are not shorted. Those diodes didn't blow out on their own. Trace out the circuit diagram to see what they are actually doing in the circuit.
- Thread starter
- #111
Right on. Thank you. I'll take a look.I have not studied this particular igniter but those are sintered glass diodes, probably GE-509 or similar. I imagine you could replace with any 1N4007 1000 V PIV diode, or something like these:
SF5408-TAP | DigiKey Electronics
Order today, ships today. SF5408-TAP – Diode 1000 V 3A Through Hole SOD-64 from Vishay General Semiconductor - Diodes Division. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
Check to be sure the transistors are not shorted. Those diodes didn't blow out on their own. Trace out the circuit diagram to see what they are actually doing in the circuit.
Is it possible some bugs living (dying) inside the unit could have caused a short in it? I did clean a fair few spider carcasses and egg sacs out of this, but everything looks pretty clean otherwise.
I'll admit circuit boards are not something I'm super familiar with diagnosing/repairing, but to my eye nothing looks out of place except the blown diodes
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #112
New clutch is in.
A little change of scenery to the patio pad off our back deck as I needed a more stable platform for the transmission/Tcase install that is rapidly approaching.
CJ5 made quick work of pulling the 40 around and getting it into place.
Definitely a better workspace than before, though looking forward to getting this into the garage soon. Wife doesn't mind (too much).
Priority now is to get it running and moving under its own power so I can move it to a garage space. That where I want to do the bodywork.
A little change of scenery to the patio pad off our back deck as I needed a more stable platform for the transmission/Tcase install that is rapidly approaching.
CJ5 made quick work of pulling the 40 around and getting it into place.
Definitely a better workspace than before, though looking forward to getting this into the garage soon. Wife doesn't mind (too much).
Priority now is to get it running and moving under its own power so I can move it to a garage space. That where I want to do the bodywork.
- Thread starter
- #113
CS130 is wired up. Gotta say I'm pretty proud of my cable routing.
- Thread starter
- #114
Also, something fun from Australia. Found this on eBay, seller is Australian Performance Systems.
Tri-y style header. Super reasonable price and very quick shipping. Flanges were nice and flat, and actually the same thickness as the intake.
Tri-y style header. Super reasonable price and very quick shipping. Flanges were nice and flat, and actually the same thickness as the intake.
- Thread starter
- #116
Alright, looking for some electrical advice.
Some things work, some things don't. Not sure why. Harness seems in good shape. No broken/burnt wires to be found anywhere. All connectors have been cleaned and polished with Deoxit D5.
Grounds have been polished, battery to frame is brand new 2AWG, mounting point polished with flap disc. Starter to frame ground wire cleaned. Harness ground on passenger side frame polished and put back. Added a body ground on the fire wall to the battery (-) as well.
Here's what I've got:
Starter: Works great
Ignition coil: getting full voltage
Fusible link: continuity on both sides, also had a new spare I tried
Wipers: Work great, high and low speed.
Horn Relay: works great, all three buttons on wheel trigger the relay, no horns yet, but I think those grounds need a look bc there's continuity all the way to the horns themselves.
Headlight/Driving light circuit: nope, no headlights, no dash lights, however front Marker lights have continuity to the terminal, so headlight switch theoretically works
Turn signals: nothing. not hearing the relay. However, hazard switch turns on the passenger side front turn signal.
No taillights hooked up yet. would this affect anything in the driving light/turn signal circuit (ie do they need to be there for these to function?)
Blower fan: nothing (maybe bad resistor?)
Fuses are all new, none have blown. I have tried two different fuse boxes. (I had a spare laying around).
If I need to I'll pull the harness, as Ive done it before with my 45 I'm not opposed, but I'd really rather not go through that work if there's anything else I can try before.
Some things work, some things don't. Not sure why. Harness seems in good shape. No broken/burnt wires to be found anywhere. All connectors have been cleaned and polished with Deoxit D5.
Grounds have been polished, battery to frame is brand new 2AWG, mounting point polished with flap disc. Starter to frame ground wire cleaned. Harness ground on passenger side frame polished and put back. Added a body ground on the fire wall to the battery (-) as well.
Here's what I've got:
Starter: Works great
Ignition coil: getting full voltage
Fusible link: continuity on both sides, also had a new spare I tried
Wipers: Work great, high and low speed.
Horn Relay: works great, all three buttons on wheel trigger the relay, no horns yet, but I think those grounds need a look bc there's continuity all the way to the horns themselves.
Headlight/Driving light circuit: nope, no headlights, no dash lights, however front Marker lights have continuity to the terminal, so headlight switch theoretically works
Turn signals: nothing. not hearing the relay. However, hazard switch turns on the passenger side front turn signal.
No taillights hooked up yet. would this affect anything in the driving light/turn signal circuit (ie do they need to be there for these to function?)
Blower fan: nothing (maybe bad resistor?)
Fuses are all new, none have blown. I have tried two different fuse boxes. (I had a spare laying around).
If I need to I'll pull the harness, as Ive done it before with my 45 I'm not opposed, but I'd really rather not go through that work if there's anything else I can try before.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
You need to hook up the tail lights. The flasher needs the resistance of both frt and rear 1157 turn lights to work. Both frt and rear light fixtures are grounded thru their mounting hardware. You might consider cleaning their grounds and adding ground wires between the housings and frame.
- Thread starter
- #118
Thanks. I suspected something like that might be the case but wasn't sure. I'll work on wiring up the tails today and see what I get.
- Thread starter
- #119
Fuel pump mounted.
Still need to figure out wiring. Ground was easy,. obviously just the bolt into the frame.
What's the most accessible ign switched 12v to tap into here?
Still need to figure out wiring. Ground was easy,. obviously just the bolt into the frame.
What's the most accessible ign switched 12v to tap into here?
- Thread starter
- #120
Well, nevermind.
I was working on wiring up my aftermarket taillights, and decided I wanted to pull the rear harness instead. It had a tow light adapter, poorly installed with scotchloks, and I couldn't let that stand. Other than that looks to be in good shape.
Easy enough to pull this part of the harness so I'll unwrap, clean up, inspect, add a wire for the fuel pump and go from there.
It honestly has me tempted to just go ahead and pull the main harness as well, as it's not that much additional work, but I'll get this cleaned up and go from there.
