Builds Eureka - a 1974 Factory Soft Top FJ40 preservation

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

More soft top bows today. Working on the cross bars that connect the b and c pillars (which support the middle bow).

20240719_102618.jpg


20240719_104145.jpg


I know on the real bows the mount is vertical, but these already had horizontal tabs attached , so horizontal it is.

20240719_104149.jpg
 
Here's a question for the gallery.

I have a brand new Clutch Master/ Slave kit that I got a while back for my FJ45, but I didn't end up using it because I found a way to rebuild my early tin cup master.

It has everything, the soft line, the hard line, slave and master.

However, it is for a driver's side clutch fork, and in the 74 it's currently on the passenger side.

The old hard line needs replaced anyway. Is there any reason I can't switch the fork around to the drivers side of the Bell housing and use the full kit I have? The hole is there. I can't see a reason I can't.

If there is some reason I'm not seeing please let me know. I also have the materials, tools and capacity to make a new passenger side hard line, but if I can avoid the extra work I will.
 
Original the clutch slave was on the left side because the transfer case high low shift linkage pivoted off the right rear motor mount. 9/72 the dash mounted transfer shifter moved to transmission cover in all markets. Took a while for Toyota to moved the shifter to the right. This is a better option because it keeps the hydraulic fluid away from the hot exhaust. Wiring and brake lines are run on the right side for that reason. The BJ4X exhaust is on the right and everything else is on the left.
 
Original the clutch slave was on the left side because the transfer case high low shift linkage pivoted off the right rear motor mount. 9/72 the dash mounted transfer shifter moved to transmission cover in all markets. Took a while for Toyota to moved the shifter to the right. This is a better option because it keeps the hydraulic fluid away from the hot exhaust. Wiring and brake lines are run on the right side for that reason. The BJ4X exhaust is on the right and everything else is on the left.

Heat has never been an issue on my early 45
 
I run a sbc and over time I believe exhaust heat has contributed to taking out my slave. Cruiser cult just started making a heat shield for the slave in that position. I'm thinking of getting one.
 
Last edited:
Make sure it isn't full of water.
The transmission did indeed have a little water in it unfortunately, but it was very clean and didn't seem to be in there for long. Everything looks great, no rust on the gears. Filling it with diesel to flush out any remaining water, and just gonna run it, it will be fine.

Later ('78) H42 and matching Tcase.

20240722_201549.jpg


The whole unit trans/tc was only $300. Tc is in excellent shape, and it came with V8 Conversion parts attached (Chevy Bell housing, adapter plate and cross member) that I can sell on so I'll likely only be in this entire unit for like $100-150. I can deal with a little water for that kind of value.

20240723_073805.jpg
 
Adding some stuff back to the engine today. New water pump, thermostat housing cleaned up and back on, found an alternator adjustment arm at the pick and pull on a 70's f150 that will work well with the new alternator.

20240723_112613.jpg


Before I hook up the entire cooling system I wanted to run evaporust through everything. Since the engine isn't running I'm using an aquarium pump in a small pail to circulate it from the thermostat housing and out the water pump.
VideoCapture_20240723-121459.jpg


VideoCapture_20240723-121523.jpg


Will let that run for a day or two and see what crap comes out.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom