epoxy primer and body filler question (1 Viewer)

[jvincig01]

I have some things i want to paint but want to use a thin coat of body filler (eww, yuck, no bondo... there i said it for you ) to hide some minor imperfections on the bare metal. I have two questions...

1. Do I apply 2k epoxy primer before or after i apply the body filler? What goes on to bare metal first?

- second question -

2. Lets say I epoxy first and then use body filler... can I apply high build primer directly on top of body filler?

Thanks!

 

[RAYJON]

Either way is correct, the old school guys like the bondo first, newer logic is seal the metal then fill.. as filler can absorb moisture..

y2k high build will fill alot. You can spray it up to 3 coats the let it cook off (about a week in the sun to off gass fully) the block it out and do 3 more coats.. 3 coats is about 1/8 of an inch.. so technically you could end up with 1/4 inch of epoxy primer in places..

The doors on my crew cab had alot of work/y2k on them before i sprayed them black. (GM doors suck paper thin)when it got hit 3 years later nothing chipped the doors just oil canned real bad even the scratches didnt peal the paint/primer..

Really good stuff if used correctly.. i stripped sealed with y2k then scuffed really well for the filler to adhear to, skim coat of filler blocked then another coat y2k then block with 400 wet dry..

Be aware the y2k epoxy will form a shell after a day or so, you have to sand it to get anything to adhear to it.. once it cures paint and other primers dont adhear without sanding first...

 

[jvincig01]

Either way is correct, the old school guys like the bondo first, newer logic is seal the metal then fill.. as filler can absorb moisture..

y2k high build will fill alot. You can spray it up to 3 coats the let it cook off (about a week in the sun to off gass fully) the block it out and do 3 more coats.. 3 coats is about 1/8 of an inch.. so technically you could end up with 1/4 inch of epoxy primer in places..

The doors on my crew cab had alot of work/y2k on them before i sprayed them black. (GM doors suck paper thin)when it got hit 3 years later nothing chipped the doors just oil canned real bad even the scratches didnt peal the paint/primer..

Really good stuff if used correctly.. i stripped sealed with y2k then scuffed really well for the filler to adhear to, skim coat of filler blocked then another coat y2k then block with 400 wet dry..

Be aware the y2k epoxy will form a shell after a day or so, you have to sand it to get anything to adhear to it.. once it cures paint and other primers dont adhear without sanding first...

Thanks!! this is really helpful. There sure are a lot of steps when it comes to body work.

I don't have painting equipment so I have been using Spraymax 2k Expoxy Primer (it's in a can), and then using SEM High Build Primer. I have had good results with those two products but never added body filler into the equation.

 

[RAYJON]

I use the cheep harbour freight hvlp gun for primer you can run them on a small compressor.. buying that stuff by the can will get expensive fast.. if you have a good local paint supplier they can sell to you at jobber pricing, if not you can order on line just about everything you need paint wise reasonable.. remember the prep is 80% of it getting the prep right makes the painting easy,

Remember your eyes will play tricks on you doing body work learn to run your hand over it to feel the high and low spots... then work from there,

learning hammer and dolly and shrinking metal takes time but is real satisfying when you can straighten without alot of filler, shops don't do much of it anymore because it takes time and filler and y2k is quick.

Good luck..

 

[RAYJON]

Yes body work is alot of steps but it goes fast, air tools and good sand paper make it easier. Also get a large chip brush and clean the sand paper every few minutes helps keep the paper clean and last longer.. good long board with an aluminum base and sandpaper on a roll adheasive backed, for it saves time also...

Lots of tricks, paint tech is constantly changing, read the instructions from the mfg, some of the old school stuff doesnt work today with paint and fillers.there are newer better processes, one of the things i really like is an adhearing primer you shoot before the first paint coat allows you to lay on a thick coat first instead of a fog coat,

Read some stuff from the paint company you plan on using they all have info and training videos on line for there products..

The whole time remember the body shop charges 100$ an hour for what you are doing.. yes they are faster but you will get there... lots of great paint jobs done at home...

Good luck..

 

[thecrazygreek]

Always go epoxy then filler, then primer. After all your final sanding in 400, seal it with epoxy thinned 10% with appropriate reducer, do not sand the sealer, then paint.

The high build contour primer from eastwood does real well for a polyester primer. As far as bondo goes, use rage ultra. That stuff is light weight, pin hole free, and spreads easily.

Good luck!

 

[RAYJON]

Are you shooting the epoxy right before you paint???,

they make a special product for what you are doing.. to seal and promote adhesion of the paint.

I have seen several jobs that the paint pealed because the epoxy/y2k had curred and wasnt sanded.. alot of the formula's on stuff changed with low vox paint so i follow the mfg recommendation,

 

[jvincig01]

Here is my plan. How does this look?

1. Primer bare metal with 2k epoxy primer
2. scuff the epoxy after it dries with a red scotch brite pad
3. apply body filler
4. scuff body filler
5. apply 2k epoxy primer on top of body filler
6. scuff with scotch brite pad
7. apply high build primer
8. if primer is completely dry, scuff with 400 grit paper
9. apply top coat with appropriate flash off times
10. apply 2k clear coat

 

[thecrazygreek]

Skip step 5... One coat of Epoxy is enough. Then add a step between 8 and 9, for a sealer coat. Sealer is not completely necessary, but it gives you a good indication of what the final coat will look like, and provide uniformity of the top coat.

 

[jvincig01]

Skip step 5... One coat of Epoxy is enough. Then add a step between 8 and 9, for a sealer coat. Sealer is not completely necessary, but it gives you a good indication of what the final coat will look like, and provide uniformity of the top coat.

Efcharistó!

 

[btbuild]

Here is what I did.

1. Apply epoxy primer over clean bare metal. (Media blasted)
2. Apply filler where needed within the working window of the epoxy you use. You can also shoot a primer surfacer over the epoxy also. You should plan this step out carefully or you will have to abrade surface again and reshoot epoxy if you miss the window 5-7 days depending on epoxy.
3. Block Sand block sand and block sand. USE A GUIDE COAT.
4. Seal with epoxy over all body work again with a thinned epoxy primer.
5. Shoot your topcoat writhin the working window of epoxy (without sanding) or wait till epoxy is fully cured and scuff with red scotch bright, clean and shoot top coat.

Hope this helps a bit
I by no means am a professional but this worked well for me. I'm still working on my hard top and doors. In fact I sprayed my sides today. Good luck to you.

BTBUILD

 

[jvincig01]

Here is what I did.

1. Apply epoxy primer over clean bare metal. (Media blasted)
2. Apply filler where needed within the working window of the epoxy you use. You can also shoot a primer surfacer over the epoxy also. You should plan this step out carefully or you will have to abrade surface again and reshoot epoxy if you miss the window 5-7 days depending on epoxy.
3. Block Sand block sand and block sand. USE A GUIDE COAT.
4. Seal with epoxy over all body work again with a thinned epoxy primer.
5. Shoot your topcoat writhin the working window of epoxy (without sanding) or wait till epoxy is fully cured and scuff with red scotch bright, clean and shoot top coat.

Hope this helps a bit
I by no means am a professional but this worked well for me. I'm still working on my hard top and doors. In fact I sprayed my sides today. Good luck to you.

BTBUILD

View attachment 1695722

Thanks! Your rig looks great by the way!

 

[Splangy]

A few things:

If you’re getting 1/8” out of 2K urethane high build primers, you’re laying it on WAY too thick and it’ll probably result in significant shrinking. If it continues to shrink after you paint, you’re going to see a lot of marks come through.

Not all epoxies have the same recoat window. Thy can vary greatly by product. Read the tech sheets for the product you’re using.

Body fillers require more surface profile than just a scuff. Again, read the product tech sheets for the products you’re using and don’t listen to the guy on the internet that prescribes a certain grit without knowing the product you’re applying.

You don’t scuff body filler or high build primer. You sand most of it off when you block it smooth.

Don’t get convinced you absolutely need a sealer. If you don’t burn through your surfacer, you can often get away without one.