Builds Engr 88 Pickup - 22RE Megasquirt turbo build (1 Viewer)

[EngEngr]

10F started after adjusting cranking fuel. WUE was decent and it warmed up at idle without any throttle input from me so I should be good to go for the winter months.

The FZJ80 blew the head gasket after our trip to Colorado so I need to get that fixed next before putting the next few turbo pieces together but it should be a pretty short list - mostly fabrication.

To do:
Turbo manifold and down pipe
Intercooler piping and intercooler selection/location
Locate and weld Tial BOV flange
Wire MAT and MAP sensors and remove/jumper the MAF/fuel pump
Get rid of the factory air filter box and come up with a new air filter/pipe/box


The current calibration is done for the NA/non boost section with the 750cc injectors. Just need to add boost and start calibrating above 100kPa.

 

[EngEngr]

Having fit and welded my share of mechanical pipe over the years, I was a bit intrigued with your manifold challenge there. Played around in cad and came up with this, fwiw.

4x std radius 1-1/2 90's and 3x short fillers.

View attachment 3183376

My attempt with notching the T's ends up looking very similar. I will probably ditch them and go with 90s or just straight sections on 2 and 3.

 

[88repo]

Stubbing out of 2 & 3, while it might be the easiest way out, falls far short on the cool factor IMO.

I'd stick to the fttg route if possible. Just my $.02.

 

[EngEngr]

Stubbing out of 2 & 3, while it might be the easiest way out, falls far short on the cool factor IMO.

I'd stick to the fttg route if possible. Just my $.02.

You're over estimating my ability to fabricate. I think this is my final concept, 4 90s and a few straight sections

 

[EngEngr]

Land cruiser headgasket is done, back to the turbo pickup.

Purchased a bosch TMAP sensor to remove the AFM and am switching up injectors from low impedance 750cc to five o motorsports high impedance 550s. Couldn't get the low pulse width at idle and cruise to reliably inject.

Going to clean up some wiring and fuel before tuning new injectors NA again prior to putting the turbo on

 

[EngEngr]

Millpwr project to get the bosch temp and pressure sensor into the intake manifold and remove the factory AFM. Turned out pretty good

 

[EngEngr]

Land cruiser head gasket
Baby #3, it's a boy!
Gx470 dobinson shocks and maintenance

The pickup is finally back in the garage...

To do
Wire bosch TMAP and remove AFM
Wire high impedance 550cc for sequential injection
Mount megasquirt under the dash
Power steering box rebuild again after massive leak
Front CVs
CSF 3 row radiator repair

 

[brettk]

Congrats!

 

[EngEngr]

Removed low impedance 750cc.
Installed high impedance 550cc 'black ops" from five-o.
Relocated wiring to behind the glove box, just need to work up a MS mount.

Turbo inspiration picture

 

[EngEngr]

Injectors and bosch TMAP wires ran to the cab and harness wrapped. All new wire and crimped pins

 

[aztoyman]

I'm looking forward to seeing this run.

 

[dfarr67]

xx

 

[EngEngr]

MS set up for sequential inject using the ABCD ports on the rear options port. I'm told from DIY autotune support that the 22re distributor picks up both cam and crank signals wrong information... so all you need to do is run individual wires and remove jumpers inside the MS board to convert batch to sequential and add a cam/crank sensor

Also setup for external MAP instead of the internal map/hose and set S1 in the down position to let MS control the fuel pump when deleting the AFM

5 - off
6 - inj d seq
7 - off
8 - inj c seq
11 - off
14 - off
17 - external map
S1 - down, afm delete

 

[dfarr67]

xx

 

[EngEngr]

I'm running a 36-1 crank trigger with Ford sensor, and the dizzy is X1 cam only. Also using Ford PWM IAC. I had the IAT in the air cleaner (tuner didn't like that), then- where you have it in the plenum- (didn't like that either), finally in front of the TB and he is happy. Using old style GM MAP, Honeywell fuel pressure sensor, Bosch flat response knock. Had the Spartan WB- but it was defective , using onboard WB now. Had to add a resister and adjust factory tach to get it to work correctly as I don't have the igniter to pull signal from. Next project as this is a driver is Rostra cruise.
Issues I have run into:
- ecu is from Iceland- rare in North America
- previous guy who worked on this was dodgy- had to check EVERYTHING ie studs were torqued to 25ft-lbs
- turbo oil drain was way undersized and backing up- puffs of white smoke at the end of a pull
- these engines sound gawd awful- welded two muffles daisy chained, ok now. Tuner was working on his own '92 pickup with a 2JZ and cheap turbo, 550hp at the wheels those six's sound sooo sweet.
- this is a DD so everything I did was to promote reliability and was enhance what the engine is- it is a low rpm tractor engine- so you (and mine) exhaust manifold promotes torque rather than the expensive other types.
- don't know how the clutch will hold out- I drive conservatively but I have a new 1995 22RE flywheel and a 1993 Sachs Supra 7MG pressure plate and disk if problems arise.

Couple of questions- why the new valve train? I'm running a Comp Cam with .010/.010 hot, set at .009/.009 cold and I hope that quietens things a bit, I know these engines tend to have a little noise and with a turbo don't want to set tight.
Funnily enough I have a alternator for a spare coming that is the Jag Denso- other than the pulley what exactly did you trim to make fit- at the least you had the engine out for fitment, I'll have to deal with in truck.

Valvetrain - The head came with 1mm oversized valves. 22RE performance turbo camshaft and I bought new OEM rockers and studs because I didn't want to risk the wear on a brand new engine build after driving my engine for 20 minutes down the highway with a spun rod bearing sending contaminated oil everywhere.

Alternator - had to make the OEM pulley fit by boring the center and then the top ear mount that goes on the top bracket is too thick. Had to trim the backside to make it clear the upper rad hose. Trim 5mm.

 

[dfarr67]

xx

 

[EngEngr]

So- you didn't have to screw with the front mount face of the top ear, read guys are bending that steel bracket for some reason- I don't like modifying these things as down the road if you have to throw on a oe alternator back on you will have issues. Trimming the back side is ok. You running stock wiring?
I've read about noisy valvetrains that cannot be silenced unless new shafts and rockers go on- wearing parts, you're more worried about debris.

If I had an OE alternator, I would be able to install it if I had a new/non modified pulley. I don't see how people are modifying the bracket to fit while still having the belt line up.

Stock wiring for now, no extra power draw other than the compressor.

 

[dfarr67]

xx

 

[EngEngr]

Intake manifold back on and AFM jumped.

Went with glove box hacking and velcro for ecu mount. It's really hard to unstick.

 

[EngEngr]

Finished wiring and key on. Fuel pump kicks on, new MAP and MAT calibrated, O2 works as well.

Getting closer..